JTTHECLOCKMAN

How do you know a company does not make a mistake?? They may have never made a mistake on your order but others they may have. The size of a company plays a roll too. When handling more orders than the next guy can produce more mistakes. What impress me is not the lack of mistakes but how they are handled if it does happen and the speed of which it was handled. That is what a stand-up company is all about.

Can someone shoot a photo of this so called stop. I have had my saws for quite some time and am not aware of this or its purpose. I must have mis read this thread and do not comprehend this. I like the way my arm goes up and out of the way. I did at one time have an instance that Kevin did with the bulb breaking. But I now have fluorescents that have a plastic cover over the lamps so that is not happening any more.

Projects, wow. I have 5 for the IAP pen turning contests that need to be done by the 18th. My brother just added 3 new projects he wants done plus I owe him a pen and box that I have been working on for awhile. Have a house full of projects and spring is around the corner so yard work is nearing. Not enough time in the day but being retired does help.

I did that one myself this past year and sold one at my shows. I used red oak and walnut.

Have no answer for you because I am a bottom feeder .

That basically was my idea but thought instead of cutting dashes to use the colored wood he is using on the base and thin to a veneer and use as a skirt. I have done that many times to accent the clock and tie it into the base.

Well Kevin I will share my knowledge from the pen turning world because Epoxy resins have become popular there and I have used them with good success. First off there are many types of epoxy resins out there from casting resins to bar top resins and everything in between. The casting resin is the one you want. It is durable when cured and as I said used in the pen making hobby so it has to be. What makes this stuff a good fit is it dries super clear, does not require a pressure pot to get rid of bubbles, polishes to a high shine, and as I said durable but also sticks to everything just about. That is why it gets used for pens. I shown this pen, my scrollsaw blade pen, here before but I made this last year for a contest and it was cast in epoxy resin. The 2 leaders in the market are Liquid Diamonds which this is and Royal Palm. Both are very good and not sure on price but bet they are comparable. There are many new players and I have no knowledge of how good they are. If you are just coating things you could get away with bar top resins but you want one that is super clear. Most have a yellow tint. No to the buying gallons unless you are going to be doing a ton of these. Shelf life is about one year if stored in cool but not below freezing temps and not high heat. It is a 2 to 1 ratio mix that is crucial. We use a scale to measure the parts. Those are cheap. This stuff is water thin and thus gets in all the nooks and crannies but needs a mold to hold in place. Silicon molds are great because when sprayed with a mold release agent the resin does not stick to it. I use Stoner mold release. A little goes a long way. This stuff does not generate alot of heat as it cures because it cures very slowly. Usually 24 hours. This gives those tiny bubbles a chance to rise to the top and burst. A small hair dryer can help this too when passed over it. You do not go crazy when stirring but need to stir thoroughly getting all corners of the cup or container. That 2 to 1 ratio is critical. It will generate bubbles but will dissipate. It can be tinted and things added to it. Without seeing the item I can not suggest what or how to cast. It can be sanded planed cut but then needs to be polished. In the pen turning world we polish with Micro mesh pads and use water as the carrier. You could put on a buffer and use white diamond and then top with an automotive wax. Good luck.

I like them. I am definitely adding them to my to do list this year

Always love to see a good desk clock. They came out very well. Like the detail on the base.

That is what I would have done drilled them out. If the holse are too big then make a new top and double sided tape it and drill to right size.

I typically use 1-3/8, 2" or 2-3/4" but I do have others that I like the style and works well on certain patterns. I love theme clocks and on that one a horse clock insert would go great

I ordered a bunch 10 X 10 napkins and decided I will make all patterns fit that size. I like some of the pattern ideas coming through.

Well if you are interested in my opinion, the larger clock insert overwhelms the piece by alot and I would not go that way. The 2" is too small. But with that said the options are places like Walmart and AC Moore, or Michaels or even Hobby Lobby sell the in between size inserts. Now they are more expensive but if this is a one time thing and you will change at a later date the size of the pattern then it might be worth the extra couple dollars for one insert. Now another suggestion would be, you said you will use a different colored wood for the base, is make a detail skirt around the clock insert. Make it the exact 1/2 of what the space is between the edge of the clock and the outside edge of the clock circle. You could go 3/4 of the distance if that is too thin, but you want the light wood o show the circle too. You can just make a circle or get fancy and do some sort of edging. Make it a thin layer nothing thicker than 1/8" That is my ideas.

There are many variations to cauls and uses. Just to give you some idea. https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=woodworking+cauls&id=DBD370EBC6D71E145D5E18EE00C210BC52E7E1E2&FORM=IQFRBA

I use to get wood paneling if anyone remembers what paneling was. Home Depot use to discount broken and damaged sheets. I use to buy all they had and that stuff was used for everything including protecting my floors when I was redoing some rooms in the house. I do not even know if they still sell wood paneling. Everything today is fiberboard.

If you are talking about stacking of the rings.The best way that I use is weight. I glue the rings and align them then I take a 10 lb weight and place it on a flat board. I have a bunch of baltic birch cutoffs of different sizes I use for this. I place the weight on the board and then lift the board and set it gently on the top ring. I use Titebond II wood glue so after a couple minutes it is tacky enough nothing moves around. I will check the alignment after a couple more minutes to make sure all is fine. I then replace the board with the weight making sure it is centered on the rings and will add another 25 pound weight on top of the 10. That is plenty of downward pressure and clamping pressure. I do this all the time. Need to make sure the board is flat and the table you set on is flat. I use my barbell weights being I do not lift any more.

Actually that is a good score and you did well with it. all nice projects. I need to go down that isles more often when in Home Depot.

My friend, you must have misunderstood. Dan took photos of his drill press because he has the same model I was referring to and he was good enough to post. I would have had to take some photos because I do not have any stored anywhere. That is what is nice about this place someone always steps up in case we who are asked questions do not get back right away. As far as my gallery here, I mentioned this before that at one time I had one but it never came over with the new format when Travis made the switch so someday I may start a new one here. Probably then we will switch once again.

There you go Ray Dan did a good job with the photos. The same drill press. Like I said my 12 and 16 both have that locking system and works great. Just got out of the shop and used it 3 times for 3 different projects. If I had to keep lowering and raising the table it would drive me crazy. But I have to do that at times too. The ring between the handle and the drill press with that little flip lever is what I am talking about. Thanks Dan saves me from finding a link or taking camera out.

With all that said and I agree how the heck did he do this??? Some of those books are from the beginning of scrolling days. There are no CD's out of each and every book listed. Something is fishy to begin with and to charge that small amount. Lets say there was a way of doing this, imagine the time and money spent to do this.

Both my table top 12" Delta and Delta 16" floor model have a locking system on the crank handle and does not have that nut detent system. I use that to set depth or if I need to lower the quill and just lock in place. Has a little thumb wing to turn and is so easy to set. I use my drill press for so many projects so I am constantly changing drilling depths and as I said I always lower the forstner bit to the depth I want next to the piece and lock that ring. Very easy and accurate. Just like a router bit you do not bottom out a forstner bit in a chuck. So that setting can change each and every time you go to drill a clock insert out and having designated spacers may work for you but would never for me. Just the way we all do things differently but get to the same results. If there is any people actually reading these things, one other tid bit of info that is a good practice to follow and this goes way back to when they use to use and some still do, use keyed chucks in drill motors. But it is prudent to tighten the chuck with the key in more than one hole to make sure the bit is centered in the chuck and all jaws have the same pressure applied. If not you run the risk of the bit slipping more easily and also can make the bit untrue when drilling and you will notice a wobble.

OK another idea. How about a christmas tree with a star on the top. Look good with white or green napkins. I like this idea.

Turkey is next. Bring it on. Just ordered a bunch of colored napkins so I need to wait to see what size I need to make some of these things. They will have to wait anyway. I am in the middle of the Penturning birthday party bash and entering some more contests this year. But good to go. Also I have to finish a pen and pen box for my brother who collects Budweiser stuff. I got a pattern some time ago here and I need to bring it to life. That too is next in line.

You are on a roll with these. I like it too and will get a copy. On my to do list.

More wrong than right Kevin. But when all said and done if you and everyone else look back to my comments and you will read if the chuck jaws are hitting the wood the bit is either too short or is slipping. This is as common sense as there can be when using a drill press no matter what one you have. Said it about 3 times and even made a joke with it. Ray contradicted you when you mentioned it and that is when I suggested the travel thing. Go back and read from the beginning and take in your post too and see what he said to you. Then we have all the people setting up experiments like a lab or something. The most basic question gets blown to smithereens and again I stand behind every word I said and advise I gave here. I do not mind being wrong and being brought to my attention but if people are too lazy to read then I have no control over that. I know what I am doing in my shop and know how to use every tool in my shop.