JTTHECLOCKMAN

It is red oak. White oak is more expensive so Lowes will not carry it. You can tell if it has a reddish hint to it. White oak looks alot like Ash wood. White oak is tougher to cut. http://www.differencebetween.net/science/nature/difference-between-red-oak-and-white-oak/

I have been using these for most my career in woodworking and they are great. Applys just the right amount of pressure and easy to use. Different brand but same principle. The original maker of these was knocked off so many times. He sued a couple makers but I guess it got out of hand and not worth it any more. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TXSAHU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B003TXSAHU&pd_rd_w=qwgCZ&pf_rd_p=733540df-430d-45cd-9525-21bc15b0e6cc&pd_rd_wg=baCOQ&pf_rd_r=6KZJ

It is good to know there is this dislike for oak. I will have to stop showing my projects here because many people hate looking at oak and being that is about all I use and cut no sense showing any more projects done in oak. Or maybe what I will do is include a disclaimer when I show something. I can include this warning " graphic photos!!! oak haters do not look" I love working and looking at all woods. I did learn something from this thread though.

Love the smell of oak. Been using it for so long. I pick my own boards from a lumber yard. I had the opportunity to have 2 very good lumber yards for my wood choices. Unfortunately one closed because of fire but the other still is a good source. So I can choose wood that is clear and I know what to look for when it comes to color and cuttability. Now that project is about 1-1/2 hour to cut for me and everyone is different and cutting speeds are determined by the cutter. pricing is always subjective and determined by many factors. You price things by how it is being sold, where it is being sold and some times to whom you are selling to. Since I have been here the only people I have seen here that do this basically for a living is Kevin. Iggy does alot of selling of items but has another job and have not seen others here that do scrolling for a living. So Kevin is coming at this from a whole different perspective than most of us here. So that too will have a play in the pricing as well and also his love for scrolling. I do not love scrolling that way any more. I could make more money these days if I were into selling homemade pens that I do. But even that is not what I would want to do for a living. My point here is determining prices is not easy and many factors play into it. I would not base my pricing on anyone elses pricing. pricing gets brought up many times on many sites and it just is not a fair question to ask. Kevin why not make them out of cherry??? Did they specifically ask for oak?? Should have shown them both examples.

Aspen is a white wood. Holly is another choice. Bleach will not turn a wood white unless it is white to start with. Trans tint dyes are the purest dyes possible for wood that I know of. Costly though.

Who's pattern is that?? I would be bored after 2 of them. It is not a difficult pattern. Not sure I would be playing around with a new saw for something like that. Use that time on something where there is no timetable. Now add some wedding napkin holders and you have a real winner and you will not be able to keep in stock.

Projects Half Done. Many is not even close. I also turn pens and you should see those laying around.

Kevin he said 1/4" not 5/8" and I agree you will get much less time cutting thicker wood but 1/4" and only a half hour then throw the blades away and buy some real blades. Said nothing about stacking. The more plywood you stack the more layers and glue you are cutting through and it has nothing to do with style. Never timed the blade usage and I have been doing this for over 35 years. When a blade dulls you know it. With those fancy timers you will be able to calculate many aspects of scrolling and add blade usage to that list and use many different blades to cut a single project and keep a chart. This could be all valuable info for the newbies as they try to figure out what blades are best. My statement about longer times cutting BB is true and I stand by it and as I said your mileage may vary. I will say I never got good mileage from any Olson blade. I never tried pegus blade and only use FD blades. When you find something that works why change. As My Dad always said if it is not broke why fix it. I will say at one time before my use of FD blades and getting to know Mike I used a blade called Tiger blades that were a German blade sold by Steebar. When I worked for them I use to always buy their blades and they too were a good quality blade.

I agree with Bill. I too have sawn and planed down oak boards to 1/8" and up to 3/8" without warping. I have a large clock project that I started some 10 years ago and never did get back to it and many of the pieces are 3/16" thick and are cut out and are still not warped. I know this because I moved this project the other day to get at some other wood underneath it. I really need to finish that project. Not sure where the plans are any more. I may have to wing it. I have quite a few projects never finished. Just lost interest in them mid way. I get bored quickly. Those people that do the same things over and over are a different breed in my mind.

Take all you have Kevin. I am not telling anyone which blade to use and I agree try different blades and all the blades I have ever used those are my go to blades and have scrolled many a project using them. Have to say I do not scroll much BB so my times are way off but know for sure without doubt it would be longer than 30 minutes. Your mileage may vary.

Not sure what type finish you are going after Berry on oak but man all I do is sand to 220 grit and use Watco Danish oil and never fill in grains. That is for furniture grade projects not scrolling projects in my eyes. I get a nice smooth low luster look and feel and have many people comment on the finish of my projects. Poplar is a good painting wood. Everyone has their favorites and their ways of finishing. No right or wrong ways. To me oak is my favorite wood to work with. Easy to scroll and work with.

Lets not downplay oak folks. I have been using oak for over 35 years and most my projects are from oak. So lets get real here. Alot depends on what you are making. How thin are you using and is it a stand alone or is it backed up Some of the best looking oak is flat sawn and not quartersawn at all. That is boring. Now my projects are 3/8 to 3/4 " thick so that helps Many are fret sawn so that takes out the warping too. You relive the stress when it is used for fret sawing. Vin never did say what he is using 1/4" hardwood for and how large the project is either so there maybe answers to his misuse of it if we knew. I have shown many examples of my projects here and to date not one has ever warped.

I too have tried oak plywood on a certain project and just was so disappointed and I even tried it again and used a different stain. At first I thought I liked it but the more I looked at it I came to not like it. So I scrapped the projects and to this day it sits unfinished. What hurt was the fact it was alot of cutting in 4 pieces because I stacked 2 each time. I even had splintering on some small cuts. There was some one here that made this same project and theirs looked nice. It was a religious plaque of Jesus The Light of The World. My opinion is if using plywood the only good looking stuff is good quality Baltic Birch or Finnish Birch. As far as suggestions go if the board is warping use a backer of a less warping wood. Mahogany does not warp much at all. Any wood with wild grain or heavy grain will warp. Straight grain wood will have a tendency to not warp as much.

Looks like he needs wheels on that chair. He can roll from one saw to the next and not have to change blades till they all get dull and then start over. Save alot of time. Keep them customers happy.

Did not realize the photo was going to be so big.

This is the stool I have and I placed a board on the lower rungs that I sit the foot switch on. Easy to adjust to any height and have a back rest when I need to take a break. Takes up no more room than any other chair. Ray good luck with whatever saw you finally end up with. There is a saw out there for you. . https://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/10132816/prod_1662822412?hei=546&wid=546&op_sharpen=1

Same here https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/8VYAAOSwWOdbaf8~/s-l1600.jpg

RBI land. Good luck with the saw. Continue to gives us updates as you get the thing dialed in.

My brother was into that stuff too. Hitting all the flee markets on Saturday and then selling at his garage sale during the week. He has slowed down on that stuff but still in his DNA. Well then have at it Ray. Good luck with the saws you buy. There are plenty out there.

With me you know what you are getting A+++++ saws. When you buy like you are doing it is a crapshoot like you are selling off these saws now. Buy once and never buy again stop playing around and buy a good saw already. The hobby is cutting on them not buying and selling them.

I wish you were close Ray I would sell you a Hegner and a Dewalt for $1000

I use FD silver reverse #5 blades and can cut for hours using them. I sometimes change for the sake of changing. These are my all time favorite blade and boy do I have many different blades. 1/4" BB should not dull the blade that fast. That is not thick. But do agree that any plywood will dull a blade quicker than some hardwoods because of the glue and the orientation of the plys. Grain runs different on each layer.

Well if you are going to sell it Ray do nothing to it. Let new owner have it in good condition. You have tried all these saws. What are you looking for?? There is no way anyone can tell if a saw is to their liking with a few projects. Seems everyone like Pegas buy one of those. There is a guy on a penturning site who has 7 lathes all different. he just likes buying them. Only can use one at a time. Any saw will bounce on a plywood floor. Place some cinder blocks under it hanging from the frame.. There is a saw out there that you will like Ray and hopefully someday you find it.

First off the Hegner is designed with that stand in mind so taking off the stand you risk adding vibration. They use a 3 legged stand to take care of unevenness Kevin so no problems there. That can sit on an angle if you want because again the stand is part of the saw and is all welded together. The Hawk is designed to sit on that stand and for the life of me can not figure out why Ray can not find a adjustable chair to sit in it Cut the legs down evenly if you want to lower it. But after you do again loosen the legs to let settle in the place you put it. These type saws are again designed with the stand in mind. The same goes for the Dewalt and it too has a 3 legged stand to accommodate for eneveness Very rarely do you see high end saws on a home built platform with 1000000 lbs of sand under them. Not designed for this. The $150 saw Ryobis and others need to be bolted to a heavy table or else they will walk right off the table. I have first hand knowledge of both Hegner and RBI when I bought mine this is some of the things I was told. You do need to splay the legs on the RBI . The people who owned RBI before this were so much better people to talk to and get straight answers from because they cared about their customers.

Boy I heard all these stories about lasers many times. I also heard the I can make that many times too and have offered to send them the patterns if they want to try. But no responses after that. I wish I had a nickle for every time a person touched the fruit baskets I make and tell me how different and nice they are but walk on. That was always a running gag in my booth. I even got the vendor next to me keeping score at one time too. Then I get the people telling the person next to them they collapse and I would have to explain they do not and are cut from individual pieces. You become immune to these things after awhile. People have no idea at what they are looking at most of the time. I do not explain anything unless asked these days. Waste your breathe. There are people and usually guys who will strike up a conversation about woodworking. People look at prices and at times I hear the too high quote especially when looking at my pens. I have to remind them all is hand made. Today with lasers and 3D printers it is testing the boundries of hand made items for sure.