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Everything posted by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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I use belt straps and have several versions depending how large the frame is. I also agree the lengths must be exact for good tight joints. Stop blocks work well when cutting. I use my tablesaw. It is the most accurate saw in a workshop by far and that should be anyones workshop. Many jigs can be made to fit it and make things so much easier. So for me the tablesaw (well tuned) is the best tool in a workshop hands down. Many versions of these out there and they basically all work the same way. https://www.ebay.com/p/Rapid-Corner-Clamp-Band-Strap-4-Jaws-For-Picture-Frame-Holder-Woodworking-Drawer/3028633447?iid=173771235531
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I too have that Lion trimmer that Rolf shows, and it is a great tool to tweak miters. The biggest problem with cutting accurate miters is accuracy itself. There are many homemade jigs out there to do this on a tablesaw, bandsaw or even miter saws. The blade needs to travel in a perfect straight line when cutting and many saws have runout which causes the blade to wander and that causes open miters. You get what you pay for.
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No one sells all their patterns. He use to have a pattern club and those patterns never were included. The link above is for the new owners of their business. Anyone else selling their patterns is doing so illegally. Now maybe that pattern was in one of their books so you can look for those. Or write to them or call them and they maybe able to help locate it. Man I probably made 50% of their patterns over the years. They are what started it all for me. I remember when they first started up and they had a 4 page black and white catalog they sent out and it kept growing every year. I made my money basically cutting their patterns and selling the projects. All started with those fold up baskets. Made so many of them over the years. Still have a few left from back in the day. Refuse to sell them. Met them a few times at some scrollsaw picnics over the years. Wow brings back memories. Still make alot of their patterns.
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https://express.google.com/product/13447418423979582294_18306055655423207804_7472660?mall=WashingtonDC&directCheckout=1&utm_source=bing_shopping&utm_medium=product_ads&utm_campaign=1006091 | GSX | DR | ESS01 | NA | US | en | Hybrid | Bing SEM | PLA | ~ National (acq)&utm_term=4576854590719955&utm_content=National&gclid=CPrnwePu7OECFQuxswoduPkAuQ&gclsrc=ds Never used one https://www.walmart.com/ip/BLACK-DECKER-9-Amp-7-1-4-Inch-Compound-Miter-Saw-M1850Bd/49689288?sourceid=csebr03dbcf0987cf894358a1d77e2449a57a5f&wmlspartner=bizratecom&affcmpid=3531997210&tmode=0000&veh=cse&szredirectid=15562511531884998675510090302008005
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If you have an arts store nearby they probably have them. They use them on drafting tables and that is where you will find the better ones. Or use that word for a search.
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That is where this idea should wind up. On a target and shot
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Mine too is mounted on my Hawks and there is no vibration at all.
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He just said that. He doesn't get it.
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Better man than I There are so many versions of circle cutting jigs out there and can be found on google. I have an older version I bought many years ago and believe it was Woodcraft and it used a pin as the pivot point for a bandsaw but could be adapted for use with router, jigsaw, scrollsaw. I made a larger one from plywood because I was making ship wheel clocks and cutting the circles on a bandsaw. I sold the pattern to Steebar back in the day. Need to look for the pattern.or photo. https://steebar.com/search.php?search_query=ships+wheel+clock Boy I look back through some of those plans, I can not believe they still carry many of them. Brings back alot of memories. I remember making those Pyramid clocks and trying to figure out the correct compound angles I have not made many of those projects in years. trip down memory lane. https://steebar.com/pyramid-clock-plan/ This desk set still had my old business card on it. https://steebar.com/clock-plans/?sort=featured&page=1
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Thank you for the link. A worthwhile read for sure. This project has to be ranked as one of the top 10 if not the best ever shown here. I am still in awe and jealous at the same time I sure wish Dave would consider doing a tutorial here for the site on his methods. Even if he showed us all we would not be able to complete work like that he has a talent and has been doing this for awhile. Just knowing the right angles to cut at and cut with precision is outstanding. I had made this box for the IAP contest this year and have shown it and my inlay work is basic because I just recessed the oval. I would have loved to do the entire thing using his method. I have another box I am working on that would be nice to use this method also.
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I would like to read it. What is the link??
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Ray I wish you luck in this concept. But I would think it would have been invented by now if possible. Those center punches use a spring loaded action to make a dent not drill a hole. You got me on this one and I can be of no more help. What ever you make do post some photos.
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Random Tidbit - Packing for Events
JTTHECLOCKMAN replied to Iguanadon's topic in General Scroll Sawing
You can make your own compartments within the plastic container. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=53292&msclkid=197dc2b430c71b12ada09e09e3d4d49d&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SHB | All Products&utm_term=4580221844135631&utm_content=All http://www.amazon.com/long-plastic-box/s?k=long+plastic+box -
Still do not know what mine is. Not written on it anywhere. I do use reading glasses all the time when in the shop so I use them in conjunction with the magnifier and sit very comfortable scrolling away. Being retired and under no deadlines I scroll when I want. If I get tired I am done for the day. Still in pen mode so no scrolling till about June and will start the saws up again. Have to love retired life. Just was at the eye doctor last week. Was having some pain in right eye. He put me through all the tests and boy there is surely alot of them had more eye drops put in my eye than I ever used. Have 25/20 vision. No cataracts and no glaucoma. Do need reading glasses but says I can use drugstore version for now. Attributes pain to allergies. I am trying to zero in on what it could be Have not been in the shop for 3 weeks now so know it is not anything from there. Maybe food or weather related. Some days nothing and some days bad.
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Yea I have no idea what mine is and have no idea what a diopter is I do know it works. My next one will be LED. Still have old fluorescent tubes.
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Always love desk clocks. Nice work.
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Oh I remember the days when I used my magnifier as a light source only. Those days long passed and now won't be without one to scroll with. No need to hunch over just set to the perfect height and lock it down with the setscrews. Best invention they ever made.
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Random Tidbit - Packing for Events
JTTHECLOCKMAN replied to Iguanadon's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Sorry but my thought is plastic is the way to go. List the items on the lid and use a piece of BB or even cardboard to divide the pieces or seperate the types. Card board gets broken easily and then they will spill. Been there done that. I am attempting to getting rid of all my cardboard boxes used at shows and switching to plastic bins. they make all sizes today and convenient. Just my thought. -
Ray you evidently never used a holesaw. The bit can not have a spring behind it because it needs to be solid to even start the holesaw. So it can not be solid and then miraculously spring up into the mandrel. As Kevin said those cutters and even a holesaw does not make clean holes or discs. You would need to sand them so you are back to the other methods I suggested. Now you could loosen the setscrew and it may slide up into the mandrel enough to be out of the way. But then you have to reset for the next group. Sounds like a whole lot of trouble for some round discs. Remember too you need a drill press that has no play in the quill and no runout to start with to even get close to a good disc.
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Well Ray I know of nothing like that. You ask if I ever made something for the sake of making it. I do this all the time. I make tons of jigs to suit the project I am working on. You posted a video of a scrollsaw circle cutting jig. I would make one of those if you want. The idea of a retractable pin is beyond my reasoning. You will always have a hole of some sort with those holesaws so if the bit retracts means nothing. The hole is there already. To do what you are asking you would need 2 holesaws of the same size. Drill all the blanks with one that just starts the hole and then either take the bit out and drill the rest of the way or switch to one without a bit.
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In the electrical field they have holesaws that have a spring activated devise to expel the plug from the hole saw but the bit drill through the material. The hole saw needs a pivot point to spin on or it will wander.
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What do you need a spring for?? Do not over think it. A finish nail as I said will give you a dimple to pivot on. A cork bottom will work to hide it if you are in need to hide it. or you can celebrate the hole and accent with a dowel of choice. If you want to save the work making the circle cutter you can use a holesaw and a drill press and tune the pilot bit where it just penetrates the wood but does not go all the way through. You can do this on a router table and have no holes and use a pattern flush trimming bit with a bearing as a guide. Double stick tape to a pattern and you are good to go. You can use a disc sander with a jig to hold the piece as you rotate it. In the woodworking world there are many ways to do things. You can use a tablesaw and make circles. To me unless you are making a ton of these coasters free hand on the scrollsaw is the way to go.
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Ray show us the project when you get done with it. You can do a couple things too like use a thin finishing nail for pivot point so that center hole is not so large. You can also use it so it does not poke through the piece and just pivot on the point so there is no thru hole but a small indent on the bottom. Need to watch feed rate on a scrollsaw because unlike a bandsaw where the blade is constantly moving in a circle, a scroll saw moves up and down and the blade will have a tendency to flair out thus creating an imperfect circle. Wood grain could be a factor also. When doing freehand you compensate for this but when locked into a fixed position it can wander on you. Keep the gang informed.
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Thanks Dave. Yes you do need to think about showing your talents in a video. It is unique. As for price, I do not blame you and who knows you may find someone who will appreciate the work and understand what it takes to make something like that. I know most people will have no clue. Good luck and look forward to seeing more of your work.
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Dave that has to be some of the nicest inlay work I have seen in a long time. Are the sides inlayed also??? If so that is a $80 to $100 piece. If anyone needs to do a video is you. I wish you make a set of videos depicting the process of your inlay work. That is a video I would watch over and over. I have done some inlay work but nothing on your scale. truely beautiful piece of work. Can we talk you into doing some videos?? Please. Maybe you have some already and if this is the case can you link them for us?? A++++ work. I always look for your work. You have extreme talents. The one thing I would have added and believe me this is just a thought but either flock the bottom or a piece of red felt or velvet. What is the finish on this piece??
