JTTHECLOCKMAN
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Everything posted by JTTHECLOCKMAN
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That is good. If you have all the elements listed then no reason you should not get great joints on your frames. One tool I bought many years ago was a lion trimmer. https://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Miter-Trimmer/dp/B07RJ1N5C4/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Lion+Trimmer&qid=1560055032&s=gateway&sr=8-4 With this tool you can sweeten a joint very easily. I have been using it on all my moldings in the house because not all corners are true 45 degrees. I can dial in anything I want. Talk about cheap band clamps, one I have used many many times is a string and a dowel. wrap string around the frame and twist a dowel to tighten the joints. Then just measure diagonals for exactness. Works great too.
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I use band clamps when making frames or segmented pieces. They will flex to whatever angle you have. Examples because there are so many Harbor Freight fans here and love their stuff. https://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-x-15-ft-ratcheting-band-clamp-66220.html If making small frames I use rubber bands. As mentioned the two opposing pieces always must be the same length. The angle needs to be 45 degrees. Now you can run into problems if your saw has runout in the arbor. You angle may not be a true 45 degree. The use of stop blocks can insure exact lengths or another method is to cut both sides at the same time. Hot glue the piece together or securely tape them together and cut once.
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https://www.wood-database.com/sassafras/ As mentioned white oak has the open grain look if you are looking for the lighter sassafras wood. If you are looking for the Blackheart sassafras wood then a walnut may work. https://www.wood-database.com/blackheart-sassafras/ -
Bought my Lottery tickets today. That counts right. $500,000,000 in the MegaMillion pot.
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Thanks. Red Heart, and red oak, with bright brass overlays and red stain glass in the frets of the steps. Made 2 and sold them but took a couple years because of the price I guess. Dirk Boelman pattern. I loved his work.
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Thus the grading.
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Wow I used that stuff on this piece and was embarrassed. Over time (about 2 years) that stuff became brittle and the brass pieces fell off the cross as I was showing a potential customer. I swore I would never use that again. It may work on various other materials but be aware on metals to wood. I have switched to epoxy which will stay flexible somewhat and when gluing a movable material as wood is to an immovable such as metal you need something that will not turn brittle.
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Making jigs for projects to make things easier and safer, many times is more enjoyable than the project itself. You get satisfacion you figured a way to solve a problem. I use many methods of hanging including sawtooth hooks and triangle hooks and even picture wire. For many of my shelves I used the keyhole router method and made various jigs for each type shelf. Works great.
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There is no way you can keep spray adhesive off the edges and fret work. The thing you may get away with if the glue dries clear but I would never spray the back of fret work. Each method will take some practice for sure. Need to use the right adhesive too. I know when I use that 3M super 77 spray adhesive for attaching felt to some projects it is totally messy and I have to tape off edges because you are not getting it off unwanted spots. Not pushing my method at all and could care less if no one uses it but to give you an idea to the theory behind it, when dabbing with a sponge and sparse amount of glue it forms air pockets on the surface. This allows the excess glue some place to flow to when squeezed down flat. Any excess is so small it does not matter on edges. If you lay the piece in a layer of glue there is no air pockets and it is basically a sheet of thin glue and that glue needs to flow somewhere. But as I said each method needs practice and you probably make due.
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Years ago, when Home Depot was just starting to build their empire, They use to sell Sande wood in dimensional lumber form and not just plywood. It was from a different source they have now. I built my entire shop with it. All my cabinets and trim are from Sande wood. It was a very nice wood to work with and cut easily. Very stable wood. I was told it was in the mahogany family. Not sure where they get this stuff from now but it is not the same stuff for sure.
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Most of that stuff is cheap Chinese wood.
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I do not believe that is birch underlayment. Too expensive. They use to sell Luan underlayment. Not sure what that stuff is. It could be Sande wood.
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Mine has a Plastic cover to protect the lamp. It has served me well for many years.
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Have to take a look. Thanks.
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I have stopped buying the scrollsaw magazines Creative Woodworks and Crafts and Scrollsawing woodworks and crafts a few years ago and now I am looking to sell the lot that I have collected over the years. Looking to sell as a group so I need to look in various ways I could do this because shipping gets expensive. May try a yard sale item. But collecting patterns for me is not feasible any more. I have over the years accumulated tons of patterns from various artists, but now I concentrate more on what I want to do now than yesteryear because those days are gone. I could never in my lifetime do every project I wanted to do. I also stopped every woodworking magazine I ever bought and now am left with tons of them and hating to just throw them out. I always called these magazines Eye Candy. They make those covers so enticing you need to have it. But when all said and done they are all the same. Those scrollsaw magazines became to predictable and so easy patterns They never changed with the times and thus they went by the wayside.
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Any spray adhesive will get in the frets and edges. Not my choice.
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Wood to wood I always use Titebond II , metal to wood I use a clear epoxy. Every project I do that has an overlay I use this method. Have to use real sponges and not plastic ones.
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Here is the one I use and it has daylight flourescent bulb and works great for me. I bought mine and I have 3 of them ta a woodworking show and paid around $40 each. https://www.amazon.com/V-LIGHT-Heavy-Duty-Magnifier-Black-8VS103B/dp/B07KGT5W7S/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=92XFQSV70NBJZQS1KFKK The hawk has a place in the back where the magnifier just slips in a hole and moves very easily when I need to push out of the way and swing back when needed. Everyone is different when it comes to buying tools but to pay $300 for a magnifier is out of my range. That is a draftsman light. For what we do and the dust environment not needed. Just my opinion. Many of these lights probably come out of the same factory because they all look alike with a different name.
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I use a sponge and dab. Have never had a problem.
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Thanks I saved that site. Could come in handy.
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They make a couple other cool tools including the Grrr ripper that got alot of play here recently.
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Wow. How about these for easehttps://store.microjig.com/collections/zeroplay/products/zeroplay-miter-bars-double-pack?fbclid=IwAR0lbHRG-NQIlh_xQJsPe6wQmLesBE7W0e7agZUdOYw1KuD4aeyARsE0e3A
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The answer above is the correct one and only correct one. It is the release agent that is used on the top side of the tape that is the lubricant and not the glue or adhesive. So that myth is true and false and yes it does make a difference. You may not see it because of your method of cutting along with the woods or materials you cut. The use of proper blade helps there also along with speed of cutting. Woods can burn and there are some that are more prone than others so again that myth is both true and false. Even though you use the same species of wood, within that species you may get a harder grained piece thus making the cut tougher, the turns harder and more burning. So all those list of myths as you call them are both true and false depending who and how you cut.
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If you have a tablesaw as you do you can make hardwood runners or cut any material for runners. The correct width is more the situation than the height.
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I have made sleds from both but prefer 3/4" plywood. I do not have the humidity problems you seem to have. But if you do then your tools need protection from rust. What is not keeping accuracy?? If it is the runners then switch to PVC. You can get this in any sizes. I use this for jigs. https://www.rockler.com/uhmw-plastic-jig-stock You can also buy plastic trim molding in Home Depot or Lowes and get it in sheets or strips. I like to screw the pieces to the plywood and if not movable I will also add some wood glue. If your jig is warping and lifting then make from 3/4" and add a fence to both the front and back. This will stabilize it. I make tons of jigs all the time for everything because of accuracy and repeatability and ease. Also helps keep the digits safe. Post the jig and tell us where you seem to have a problem.
