JTTHECLOCKMAN

I have stopped buying the scrollsaw magazines Creative Woodworks and Crafts and Scrollsawing woodworks and crafts a few years ago and now I am looking to sell the lot that I have collected over the years. Looking to sell as a group so I need to look in various ways I could do this because shipping gets expensive. May try a yard sale item. But collecting patterns for me is not feasible any more. I have over the years accumulated tons of patterns from various artists, but now I concentrate more on what I want to do now than yesteryear because those days are gone. I could never in my lifetime do every project I wanted to do. I also stopped every woodworking magazine I ever bought and now am left with tons of them and hating to just throw them out. I always called these magazines Eye Candy. They make those covers so enticing you need to have it. But when all said and done they are all the same. Those scrollsaw magazines became to predictable and so easy patterns They never changed with the times and thus they went by the wayside.

Any spray adhesive will get in the frets and edges. Not my choice.

Wood to wood I always use Titebond II , metal to wood I use a clear epoxy. Every project I do that has an overlay I use this method. Have to use real sponges and not plastic ones.

Here is the one I use and it has daylight flourescent bulb and works great for me. I bought mine and I have 3 of them ta a woodworking show and paid around $40 each. https://www.amazon.com/V-LIGHT-Heavy-Duty-Magnifier-Black-8VS103B/dp/B07KGT5W7S/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=92XFQSV70NBJZQS1KFKK The hawk has a place in the back where the magnifier just slips in a hole and moves very easily when I need to push out of the way and swing back when needed. Everyone is different when it comes to buying tools but to pay $300 for a magnifier is out of my range. That is a draftsman light. For what we do and the dust environment not needed. Just my opinion. Many of these lights probably come out of the same factory because they all look alike with a different name.

I use a sponge and dab. Have never had a problem.

Thanks I saved that site. Could come in handy.

They make a couple other cool tools including the Grrr ripper that got alot of play here recently.

Wow. How about these for easehttps://store.microjig.com/collections/zeroplay/products/zeroplay-miter-bars-double-pack?fbclid=IwAR0lbHRG-NQIlh_xQJsPe6wQmLesBE7W0e7agZUdOYw1KuD4aeyARsE0e3A

The answer above is the correct one and only correct one. It is the release agent that is used on the top side of the tape that is the lubricant and not the glue or adhesive. So that myth is true and false and yes it does make a difference. You may not see it because of your method of cutting along with the woods or materials you cut. The use of proper blade helps there also along with speed of cutting. Woods can burn and there are some that are more prone than others so again that myth is both true and false. Even though you use the same species of wood, within that species you may get a harder grained piece thus making the cut tougher, the turns harder and more burning. So all those list of myths as you call them are both true and false depending who and how you cut.

If you have a tablesaw as you do you can make hardwood runners or cut any material for runners. The correct width is more the situation than the height.

I have made sleds from both but prefer 3/4" plywood. I do not have the humidity problems you seem to have. But if you do then your tools need protection from rust. What is not keeping accuracy?? If it is the runners then switch to PVC. You can get this in any sizes. I use this for jigs. https://www.rockler.com/uhmw-plastic-jig-stock You can also buy plastic trim molding in Home Depot or Lowes and get it in sheets or strips. I like to screw the pieces to the plywood and if not movable I will also add some wood glue. If your jig is warping and lifting then make from 3/4" and add a fence to both the front and back. This will stabilize it. I make tons of jigs all the time for everything because of accuracy and repeatability and ease. Also helps keep the digits safe. Post the jig and tell us where you seem to have a problem.

I take a scarp block of wood and run 4 or 5 sheet rock screws through it. The sharp points leave no discernable trace of damage as the piece sits on them I have about 10 or these made and use them for all sorts of painting or finishing. Now this is for people only with screws or nails. Others use rocks.

Just saying Ray. Your words. I think you are very special. I'm 76 years old. I live in a retirement mobile home community. I have nothing to build nor do I have any desire to build anything requiring nails. But if I did, I'd invest in a framing nail gun. I'm happy for you though.

HF everyone has their own concept of what is a good tool I guess. Selling junk tool next to better tools I believe hurts them then. Your image is tainted from the junk. The key words used is "Occasionally Used" If I own a tool I want to rely on that tool to be accurate and work when I need it too. There seems to be the love for HF tools so I will back off dissing them. Enjoy them. Work safe. I stand by my statement of my thoughts on HF tools. If it has a motor I am not buying it from there.

Ray come on now lets be honest here, when you say you have not had to return any HF tools, how often are you using tools. You mention numerous times you are 80 years old. Most people here are way younger and need tools that will give some longevity so for them that $300 investment could be worth way more than 4 of those $65 tools. I would never buy a power tool from HF. You could not even give me one. Every wood working magazine runs comparison reviews and most are slanted to whatever company has a deal with the magazine so take that for what it is worth. Look at the fine print if going after warrentys. Ask questions before you buy them. I do know being I worked in construction for 43 years I have seen tool selection change from one year to another. The Dewalt line was very popular. But when I started and still this day I own Makitas 9volt. Back then was the king of the hill. What you see today is package deals and that is what drives the sales. The thing is batteries are meant to be used and cycled. If you lay them dormant they go bad. So buying many batteries for tools can prove to be unproductive too. Just my thoughts.

Very neat idea. Thanks for sharing.

I made mention to this shop safety item in the compressor question but this is a good place to put this link. It has to do with maintaining your battery operated tool batteries. It is not a good idea to store or keep batteries on a charger longer than what it takes to charge them. This can prove fatal so why take a chance. https://www.todayshomeowner.com/how-to-care-for-a-rechargeable-cordless-tool-battery/

I drain my tank after every days use. I do not use air every day and for me it is the safest way to keep water out of the tank. I have a water filter setup before the tools so they do not get corroded. If you are using small portable air compressors and not draining them they are a potential bomb sitting there so be careful they do not get knocked over or tools falling on them. Forget you left it charged and go to move and bad things can happen. I have most of my shop on disconnect switches of some sort and at end of day I shut off. Speaking of things that should never be done is leave batteries charging in a charger. The heat they generate can cause fires. Charge a battery and take it out and feel how hot that battery is. Now if the shutoff on that charger is not working it will not be pleasant. Shop safety!!!!

Want a big time tool then look at Festool. Best tools on the market. Expensive. But well made.

OK from what I see Kevin has shown we now understand. You can use epoxy resins and tint it any color you want. That is what inlace is. Epoxy resin with stone dust.

Going to have to be more specific. Steve Good has some nice ones. Need a photo or some more info.

Whatcha talking about???

Not sure what sander you bought but in my opinion you never want to use an orbital sander on fret work. The paper can catch and rip delicate pieces apart. I like to use a 1/4 sheet palm sander and my go to sander for over 35 years has been this Porta Cable Bloc sander. It is a work horse and and is delicate enough for fret work. I believe these are not available for sale any more. Not sure. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&id=384B8440FD8001B3FB696D0D1E331FC564EEAFA5&thid=OIP.qolcGxY1k-o1y_b__Sh1HgHaHa&mediaurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tool-rank.com%2Fmedia%2Flisting%2Fphotos%2Foriginal%2F2a%2F69%2F1c%2F312_SpeedBlocSander_1229129071.jpg&exph=400&expw=400&q=porta+cable+bloc+sander&selectedindex=1&adt=1&ajaxhist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,3,6

Is the table level?? Do not just go by markings on the gauge. Next is the blade sitting in the clamps correctly and straight. Are the set screws in the clamps set properly if you know what to look for. ???

Very professional. Good job. Glad things went well. Always good to hear that