JTTHECLOCKMAN

I always use forstner bits. Easy and clean and easy to adjust the right depth.

I use this stuff for things I need clear adhesive. It says 5 min set but I have been able to work it 10 mins. I apply using my sponge method as I mentioned in a previous post. Works for me. https://www.lowes.com/pd/JB-Weld-ClearWeld-Clear-Epoxy-Adhesive/1000820870?store_code=1862&k_clickID=bi_272560535_1310618047997262_81913665859998_pla-4585513246605193:aud-806056765_c_&msclkid=50a19fe8ab631e54c6f4c2ed1a2b2c24

I can only speak on the Navy projects because I did them. They are from a Steve Good pattern. Are they legal?? I have no idea because again did Steve have rights to do the pattern, have no idea. How many times do you you need to pay for rights. So what I go by is if no one says anything then so be it and until someone puts a piece of paper in my hand saying I can not do it then I will continue to make things. I have been selling military projects for over 35 years and have not been called on it and I sold in malls across NJ as well as large craft shows.

I have seen this concept in hand held tools and they are used alot for roughing wood to distress it, sand rough wood to clean it, and also sand high profile moldings and such more easily. Have not seen it in that size but here is an example of them. https://www.supermaxtools.com/products/metal/superbrush-24-36-49-single-brush-sanders/ Here is a handheld model that I have seen. I do not have one because have no need. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-7-8-Amp-4-3-4-in-x-4-in-Corded-Wheel-Sander-with-100-Grit-Nylon-Brush-Wheel-9741/203162057

I can tell you for sure military products are copyrighted. As I said in jest but it is basically true, everything sold on those sites is copyrighted in one way or other and they could easily shut down the entire site if pursued by these so called henchmen. And kevin hate to say this but Craft shows are not exempt either. Seen it, been there . The bigger the show the better chance of corporations having spotters out. Sports teams especially college and pro are a huge problem. I agree wholeheartedly with Paul on the military thing. We the people are the military. Disney, Harley are always at shows. In the pen turning world we make what is called watch blank pens. What we do is take old watches and cast the parts in clear resin to make a unique pen. Where people get in trouble and I fight this all the time and just hate this premise of it has the trademark on it. We take old Disney watches or old Rolex watches and tear them apart and cast these watch blanks. You bought the watch for what it was and when it broke you turned it into something else instead of being wasteful and throwing it away. It no longer functions as a watch. Those people never made an original pen from the parts as described but they still come after people because it has their trademark on it. Like I said copyright laws are so grey and what I described has been fought in court and people have won their case but fighting big corporations gets pricey and you have to ask yourself is it worth it. To muddy the waters even more. A pattern maker makes a pattern and use a Military branch symbol or name and has the right to do so and sells his pattern, does the buyer have the right to make and sell that finished product?? No one seems to be able to answer that with a definite. These conversations have been kicked around on sites for years and taking nothing away from what Travis said is not all black and white. He is trying to protect himself and the site and understood. But get 2 lawyers in a room and you have 50 different responses. It is probably more of these selling sites are coming on line and you see more rules being put in place as you describe. So to simply shut down everything we do will never happen. Do what you do until you get told otherwise and if so get it in writing. Selling on line is and always has been a problem. Depends on the size of the fish is what will determine weather these henchmen go after you. Another point, in your link you posted look at "fair use" explanation and #4 in particular. How do you interpret that?? That is what I mean about grey area. How do we impact their sales?? In no way shape or form does what we do have an impact on what these companies do or profits they make and yet here they are trying to knock off the little guy. A war that can not be solved anytime soon as long as there are lawyers in this world. You always ask yourself though what if the shoe was on the other foot?? Good luck all.

When I made these last year I painted the backboard flat black and flat blue. The maple overlay was glued with clear epoxy. Then entire thing was sprayed with satin deft lacquer. Do need to make a couple more of the black ones. They were the better seller. That backboard piece was 3/8" thick. BB

Easy and fast and nice used in the same sentence is not in my vocabulary and never will be. I understand you are into quick sales so if you used BB for the face than why not for the back and paint it. Use spray cans. Can not get get any quicker than that. A black background works great. Save the walnut for special projects. The hole for clock inserts is not that large. It is the size of a clock motor depending what type you get. I told you this when you bought those toys that a nice drill press is worth more than any CNC machine. You can always route the backs out for the insert or scroll it.

There more than likely is no charge left on that cap because it bled through the motor windings but to play it safe just cut one wire at a time. If you can trace back to source than just jump out with a insulated wire.

They say you are never too old to learn new tricks. As I mentioned to Kevin this will all make sense when I tie 2 hobbies together which is pen turning and scrolling. This will be my summer project along with making those tierd shelves for display this year for the shows.

I do not want gloss so will look into something with satin. As I said experimenting is in the cards. Speaking of cards that is one of the projects to do playing card puzzles. This will all tie in eventually with my pen turning and some boxes for these pens. I always said I like to combine both my hobbies.

What blade did you use and did you get any lifting of the photo as you cut it or did you top it with tape before cutting?? Thanks.

That is the person. Thanks. That is also good info in there but I can see I will need to practice using some of these methods and choose one that works for me. May just top coat with satin lacquer. What I want to do is have a photo on both top and bottom so it is like getting 2 puzzles in one. I will be using pre planned patterns from Steve Good. he has a whole book. A little out of my comfort zone but I am game to try something new. Thanks.

That number is a manufactoring part number indicating it is a run capacitor. The numbers that concern you most are the microfarads and in this case 7.5 and the voltage 370volts AC If they match what you have then it is good to go.

Well I want to add a puzzle or two to my inventory this year but I have some questions that I hope all you puzzle people can answer for me. First I can not remember the man's name who use to do the stamp puzzles and he used to do Christmas Card puzzles and I know that is my bad. ( I think it was Carter) But I did not remember if he ever sealed his puzzles that were made from paper such as stamps and cards and calendars. So if anyone does this type puzzle making do you seal the puzzle in any way to protect the paper side and if so with what?? I will be using paper as the top and bottom layers, what adhesive would you recommend to adhere this?/ I am thinking 3M Super77. I was thinking of using 1/4" Baltic Birch and using FD superior puzzle blades. Does this make sense?? Do you think I should use an 1/8" piece of BB with the pattern glued on it and taped to the 1/4" or would just clear tape on top of photo and adhering the pattern to it work as well?? After the puzzle is cut does it need to be sealed in any way with all those bare wood edges. If sealed would this stop any expanding from humidity or moisture or is this not a problem?? Lastly I have seen Iggy and others seal their puzzles in clear film to keep from losing the pieces and to keep it together upon sale. Is this a good idea and what is used to achieve this?? Is it easy to open without cutting into the puzzle?? Any other tidbits of info would be greatly appreciated. This is an area I never really got into but would like to explore somewhat. Thanks in advance for the help.

Wow look at that. I thought I remembered some of this. I am a member there. My memory is not as bad as I thought. What stood out to me was Grainger. Because I have used them in the past and they can get just about anything.

That probably is an earlier version that has a capacitor run motor. You do need the capacitor but probably will not find it easily. Not sure if you have a Grainger near you but they can get it for you. probably an 8uF eight microfarad capacitor. But take it with you wherever you go so they can match it up. You may not get one small enough to fit in the switch compartment so may have to jury rig something on the side to house it safely and run wires into switch compartment. Be careful of capacitors. They store voltage so they can be charged especially if they do not have a discharge resistor on top. Do not get in between the two wires or two terminals. Discharge before working on them. Place a screwdriver across terminals. It will ark. The problem is it may cost about $30. Not sure if you want to fix. But you can check prices.

That is what I use. I have 2 versions of his sled. The first ones had a mylar strip for angles. Now the newer ones has the metal. They work great. Have both sides.

Wood to wood I use Titebond II for all. If making a frame. I dry fit everything and then lay the clamp out just as if it were to go around the frame and glue the frame together and clamp. Takes a couple minutes

Melamine to me is a laminate over particle board usually used for shelves

Way over my head and pay grade so good luck to all selling on line.

I know this opens up the whole copyright infringement thing and as far as I can tell there are no lawyers here that deal with this stuff or if there are I wish they would step forward. But what about the pattern makers making these patterns for sale. They are a business selling the pattern. If Etsy wants to go this route and other stores they can shut down the entire thing because a lawsuit for everything made and sold on their site can be a violation. Now if they go by words used that initself is a violation of free speech thus they can be sued. This is the way I see it. Glad I am not in the business any more. Trademark a name can be the wording used for removal I guess. What a mess. Have fun you all on Etsy and Ebay and Amazon. The rates keep raising and the rules keep getting tighter. Kevin did you know the use of the words US Army, Navy ,Marines and other branches of service are copyrighted also??? Emblems used can be copyright infringement also. That will be next on those sites. You are in violation unless you have permission from each branch.

Hardboard is referred to as Masonite also because the company Masonite was the first to sell hardboard and not many people knew enough about it. It is made from compressed saw dust, wood pulp and a resin and pressed under high pressure and heat. The resin adheres to the wood products. The heat as mentioned gives it the dark color. There are a couple versions of it with basically the one sold in Home centers and also a tempered version that is treated with linseed oil. We use tons of this in the construction industry for covering finished floors to protect them. It is hard material but will chip on ends easily and is moisture prone which causes swelling. Not sure that it is any cheaper than laun wood or whatever underlayment home centers are selling these days. No I would never use it for backing but have used it for workbench top for protection. It does paint well if you do not use the one with the oil in it.

I think if brought to a court of law they would lose (Etsy) There is so much grey area when it comes to copyright laws that I believe what they are doing is creating a blanket statement and trying to avoid controversy. Without going into all the legal aspects of this because I am not a lawyer but this has come up many times before. You are making a likeness of a famous person. You are making a realistic likeness but not an exact likeness. You are using a third party interpretation of that famous person from a pattern you bought. (now you have the pattern makers legal rights to contend with too) First Amendment rights are always brought up in these cases because of Paparazzi following and taking photos of stars all the time and using them. As far as selling and what to call it I say use words like scrollsawn likeness of famous people or famous bands but do not use their names in the ads.

He would have to answer that one for you. Here is one way to check a square is square. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+check+a+square+to+see+if+it+is+square+and+true&docid=607995805536421235&mid=963BA2024FEB3CAD83AF963BA2024FEB3CAD83AF&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT The same basic principle is used to check a level to see if it is reading accurate level. The flip method.

That is a machinist square so they are pretty accurate but I always like to use metal draftsman angles. They are dead on. The one thing that can not get overlooked when making frames and using angles such as 45 degrees, they must be accurate enough that when dry fitted they are good to go. If you try to force close an angle it will always always always open up No matter what fastening system you use. You also try to make the frame from the same material for all sides and preferably from the same board. wood will move and the expand and shrink rate can vary from species to species.