JTTHECLOCKMAN

Came out very nice. Very easy to get aligned and keep aligned if you make a jig. All it would be is 2 pieces of wood at a 90 degrees to each other. Now lay your pieces in the corner and they should all line up if you cutting is good. I would glue that group up first and then add the top and bottom. Easier that way because of the various curves.

Nice job with the blow up. That helps. I still would flip the screws or tighten with the one on the right as opposed to the left.

kevin you are not sounding like a person who really is looking forward to this new saw. I hope things are going to work out for you and there is no problems with it. If you have to do work on it after all said and done I would give them a piece of my mind and could not care who they are. They really sound like a company I do not want to deal with. It is ashame the name will get dragged through the mud if they do not turn things around. Shipping problems now too. I have had tools shipped from various companies by UPS, FedX and never had a problem. Way too many other saws out there.

If that is the case then what I would do is switch the 2 screws around. If they are the same thread size which usually are. What this will do is hold the blade in to the back of the clamp as you tighten. Other wise you need to hold the blade and tighten that allen screw. That is why you always see the thumbscrews on the right side of the clamp Clockwise tightens against the clamp. Unless I am see things wrong because your explanations are so short and not much info in them to help you. Trying but you have to help us to help you. Are you tightening from the right side or the left?? I do not have that saw and never seen this saw but trying to help you. What does the bottom clamp look like?? Is the blade only slipping out of the top clamp?? How is the bottom of the blade get locked in?? Looking at that photo it looks like that screw bottoms out and there is a huge gap to the other side so you need to close that up and I explained how to do that. I found this video on utube and the guy is a first time scrollsaw user so not much info from there but he shows that wrench to be used from the left side. If that is the case see if you can reverse it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvhljrQlHYY

Did you read what I wrote and is any of that helpful. I do not understand the popping out. lets step back to basics a minute. First thing is to sand the ends of the blades to get all oils off the blades. Always need to do this!!!!!! next make sure the setscrew on the right side is protruding far enough to be even with edge of clamp ( I am going on the assumption that allen screw is long enough to reach the other side without bottoming out) That is a must also!!! Take that allen screw all the way out and examine it. It should be flat or have a round ridge on it all the way around. Make sure it is clean and free from oils and if really shinny hit with some sandpaper. The opposite screw needs to be the exact same. It too could have oil on it. What you maybe experiencing is the blades are slipping out due to oil contamination on the blade screws or both. Or the screws are too shinny and metal on metal will slip easily. Lets start there. But make sure that allen screw is not bottoming out when tightening. That can prevent you from applying enough torque on the blade. Hopefully that screw is not stripped either. Does the screw come to a stop when you tighten with allen wrench. ???

You can cut either way just flip it over. I cut mine with table tilted down on left side and cut counterclockwise. Unless I start in the center than cut clockwise. Hows that for sawing in any direction.

Only you Kevin. I will not be asking you to buy me a saw any time soon.

Many saws have those strange quirks inherent to the saw but this looks like a defect.

Looks like an old 16" Homecraft Delta. What does the motor say. The company use to be Rockwell/Delta

It was not alarmed. Just digital. At least the ones I have.

kevin the only ones I know of are from China. 55mm and 63mm I have the 2-3/4" inserts http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Alarm-Insert-Clock_12257416.html?spm=a2700.details.maylikehoz.2.30167fa4Bbs26g http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/63mm-clock-alarm-clock-insert-alarm_751344101.html http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/alarm-clock-insert.html The back of the clock needs to be open to hear it and I bet they are not very loud being that small. The only alarm clocks I ever made used the motor and dials.

There should be an allen screw on the opposite side of the screw that you use to tighten the blade. You need to screw that in some so that it is just even or a little proud of that edge of the holder. You want the screw you use to tighten the blade and that set screw to hold the blade. It looks like it takes a tool to tighten the blade. If that screw that you use the tool in does not screw in far enough that it touches the other side of the clamp then one of two things need to be done. Screw the allen screw in further from the right side (looking at the clamp) or change out that tightening screw to a longer one or bring it back. That saw has a tendency to be a problem with holding thin blades because of this. That flat head allen screw does not look too long and it maybe bottoming out before it gets to the blade. The thinner the blade the further it needs to travel inwards. Hope this makes sense.

I believe he is talking about domed type boxes

Looks great. Just saw the pattern this morning.

Your 3D work is going to make my scrolling days soon very very long. I would say stop it but I am hooked. Look forward to seeing your next project.

Just curious how long did it take to get the saw after ordering??

If using pine, that can have some very strong grain and it throws the blade off quite abit. All depends on the type of pine used.

I like it too. Nice job.

If you want more drop you want less of an angle not more. Instead of 4 try 3. When doing those spiral baskets you do get tired in both your hands and also the eyes because they go in circles for some time. Just need to lessen your grip and back off your pushing. Helps if using good sharp blades too. Good luck. I made hundreds of those type spiral baskets over the years. I found a #7 blade at 3 degrees worked well for me and I always used hardwoods such as oak, walnut and mahogany and maple.

Ray where did you read about Norm Abrams and cancer??? Kevin it is funny I cut the opposite way. Just goes to show everyone is different but the results are the same. What Ray said is possible. Be careful. http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/general-discussion/sinus-trouble-and-sawdust

Amazon

Isn't that the old 14" saws. Looks like it is missing a cover over the back bearings. If it is they do not make them any more and I worry about the motor. I believe it does not have a front blade tensioner either and you have to do it from the rear. Can not see all of it. Or it could be this one than you have to really look at it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LaE-4ngKJQo or this Hawk 220-3 S/N 8021.

Like it alot.Nice work and thanks for showing.

No fence is needed. I did not have the factory fence. I use either my own built or a Carter magnetic fence. That is your call on what to do. Good luck. No there is no riser on that saw. Not sure if that backbone is one piece or split because the switch is in the way. On my Delta it was split so I added the riser. From what I can tell it looks solid and not split.

Looks in good shape and well kept. That is about a $500- $600 saw new when it was made. The thing that for me is that probably has a 3/4hp motor and this is fine for light work. 1hp or better is what I would want because I resaw my own lumber. Also a setup where I can change speeds. I say these things because I own the cousin to that saw which was Delta and I would want to upgrade. If you do not have a saw already then it can work for you. I would offer a lower price though. But looks in great shape but hard to tell about the blade guides and finer things from a photo.