JTTHECLOCKMAN

I tried telling you Kevin. Maybe it does take some time coming off saws with a different arm function but I learned on a Hegner first and then right to the RBIs and when I got the Dewalt I do not like it. Someday I will sell that saw and being a type#1 should get good money for it. Has a stand I never put together. Not even sure all the pieces are there which is why I got the thing for cheap from Home Depot. It was one of those deals they made me buy it. I have used it on occasion but not a fan. love my RBI saws and will not part with them. They have cut many projects and made me some fine $$$ over the years.

Not all acrylic is the same and plexiglass is just a version and generic name for it. I have no problem cutting acrylics on my tablesaw and use various blades. But they do make a non ferrous and plastic blade. As far as on the scrollsaw I too sandwich between some BB and cut using a standard #5 reverse tooth FD blade as I always use for just about everything. I have also cut without plywood and just use blue painters tape on front and back. An example is the acrylic mirrors cut for these.

I like that

I have seen FedX in action because we built a plant for them and yes there is automation to a point and packages do fly and have seen them fly off the conveyors. Loading on trucks is manual and again yes conveyor are sometimes used but not always and the throwing method is employed. Some of those people should try out for some baseball teams. Keven that spring steel clip is something I did years ago on mine because those plastic ones stretch out. Thanks for the photos. There are some different things there and probably because of the system to make this a top and bottom feeder and more adjustable. Good luck with it.

Kevin at least it is in your hands and how well it cuts is to be determined. But have a couple questions. First off was there any stickers on the box saying to not stand on edge or this side up or any warning of any kind?? Next if you can take a photo of the blade clamps both top and bottom. Something looks different than the older ones like I have. Also I thought they hollowed out the arm. Is it hollowed under the arm?? The model before had an I beam shape to help with the weight factor. from your photo of it on the floor it does not look hollowed out. Does the arm raise as much as the older models?? Does it have the same bearing system in the back. From the photos it doesn't look like it. Just from photos it looks different in a few ways. look forward to your review and how the movement of the blade for aggressiveness helps you. Because I think that was a complaint of yours as well as Iggys when he had one. I have to say I have never seen one of these models up close or had a chance to scroll on one. Have to live the experience through people like you.

Looking forward to reading all these new saw reviews and yours will be interesting for what you do and the abuse you put them through. Happy sawing.

Kevin I wish you good luck with this saw and we all will expect to see a good review from someone who has scrolled for a long time and has used an older RBI when they were a different company run by different people. To me they should be reaching out to you and others like you to get feedback and if they are trying to build this into something to carry on a well known brand name then do so by rewarding such feedback. In such a crowded market and with new saws hitting the market all the time they are competing for those $$. But as I said just this journey down this path to get a scrollsaw is not encouraging and to keep piling on with ever step of the way is sending bad messages throughout the scrolling world. They need to realize this. Maybe some time down the road you can send them a email and put in there the thoughts of this forum and your own and explain your unhappiness. yes you should have been compensated as well as all the others that waited for the saw. You do not know yet what problems lie ahead if they rushed to ship these saws out with flaws. For the price they are charging for these saws there should be no problems from order to delivery. These are not some 250 dollar saw. Oh well again good luck. I am glad I am not in the market for any saws anytime soon.

So the guy in the video was wrong by saying the large head screw is the tightening screw. The tightening screws should be on the same side to the right. I do not know which screw is the tightening screw. To me it would make more sense that the large head screw is but if the allen key is not the size for that then it is the other one. As mentioned you need to close the gap between the screws some how and examples of what to do were mentioned good luck I am out of this conversation.

Never did any tuning on my saw since I had it. Do not see what there is to tune. That top looks different. Is that aluminum?? Looks like it is painted or one of those synthetic materials. It looks newer than mine because of the articulating hose. Back when I bought mine they did not have that to offer. You were able to buy the kit to adapt it later. The key is get it to lay naturally wherever you set it up. That includes loosening the leg bolts to let it settle and then tighten. Learn the blade tightening lever in the back. There are videos on their site as well as utube. I have said this more than once. Rarely do I ever touch that unless I switch to jewelers blades. Clean the clamps off of oils and maybe need to sand screws down. Enjoy. You will like the saw. Good luck.

Not in the sense that they color the wood. Stains are absorbed into the wood because they are thinner as with finishes they lay on top of the wood because they are thicker.

Well I will take a shot at it. Many times the terms are used interchangeably but are not the same. First a stain is a product that penetrates wood surfaces and either you add color or highlight the grain. Natural stains are resins and oils mixed that add a hue or warmth of color but also bring out the grain of woods and let the wood show through in its natural state. A clear stain is a clear product that penetrates the wood but adds protection additives such as UV and adds no color whatsoever to the wood, thus clear. You see these terms used alot with deck colors and finishes. Now with that said you have clear and natural finishes also. These are top coats such as polyurethane, lacquers, shelacs. Your waterbased products are your clearest and can add no color unless they have stain mixed in with them. Oil based finishes will always have a yellow tint to them. Used on darker woods you never see it. Now all these finishes can have UV protection as well. Any stain or finish that adds color immediately adds protection from UV.

Came out very nice. Very easy to get aligned and keep aligned if you make a jig. All it would be is 2 pieces of wood at a 90 degrees to each other. Now lay your pieces in the corner and they should all line up if you cutting is good. I would glue that group up first and then add the top and bottom. Easier that way because of the various curves.

Nice job with the blow up. That helps. I still would flip the screws or tighten with the one on the right as opposed to the left.

kevin you are not sounding like a person who really is looking forward to this new saw. I hope things are going to work out for you and there is no problems with it. If you have to do work on it after all said and done I would give them a piece of my mind and could not care who they are. They really sound like a company I do not want to deal with. It is ashame the name will get dragged through the mud if they do not turn things around. Shipping problems now too. I have had tools shipped from various companies by UPS, FedX and never had a problem. Way too many other saws out there.

If that is the case then what I would do is switch the 2 screws around. If they are the same thread size which usually are. What this will do is hold the blade in to the back of the clamp as you tighten. Other wise you need to hold the blade and tighten that allen screw. That is why you always see the thumbscrews on the right side of the clamp Clockwise tightens against the clamp. Unless I am see things wrong because your explanations are so short and not much info in them to help you. Trying but you have to help us to help you. Are you tightening from the right side or the left?? I do not have that saw and never seen this saw but trying to help you. What does the bottom clamp look like?? Is the blade only slipping out of the top clamp?? How is the bottom of the blade get locked in?? Looking at that photo it looks like that screw bottoms out and there is a huge gap to the other side so you need to close that up and I explained how to do that. I found this video on utube and the guy is a first time scrollsaw user so not much info from there but he shows that wrench to be used from the left side. If that is the case see if you can reverse it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvhljrQlHYY

Did you read what I wrote and is any of that helpful. I do not understand the popping out. lets step back to basics a minute. First thing is to sand the ends of the blades to get all oils off the blades. Always need to do this!!!!!! next make sure the setscrew on the right side is protruding far enough to be even with edge of clamp ( I am going on the assumption that allen screw is long enough to reach the other side without bottoming out) That is a must also!!! Take that allen screw all the way out and examine it. It should be flat or have a round ridge on it all the way around. Make sure it is clean and free from oils and if really shinny hit with some sandpaper. The opposite screw needs to be the exact same. It too could have oil on it. What you maybe experiencing is the blades are slipping out due to oil contamination on the blade screws or both. Or the screws are too shinny and metal on metal will slip easily. Lets start there. But make sure that allen screw is not bottoming out when tightening. That can prevent you from applying enough torque on the blade. Hopefully that screw is not stripped either. Does the screw come to a stop when you tighten with allen wrench. ???

You can cut either way just flip it over. I cut mine with table tilted down on left side and cut counterclockwise. Unless I start in the center than cut clockwise. Hows that for sawing in any direction.

Only you Kevin. I will not be asking you to buy me a saw any time soon.

Many saws have those strange quirks inherent to the saw but this looks like a defect.

Looks like an old 16" Homecraft Delta. What does the motor say. The company use to be Rockwell/Delta

It was not alarmed. Just digital. At least the ones I have.

kevin the only ones I know of are from China. 55mm and 63mm I have the 2-3/4" inserts http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Alarm-Insert-Clock_12257416.html?spm=a2700.details.maylikehoz.2.30167fa4Bbs26g http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/63mm-clock-alarm-clock-insert-alarm_751344101.html http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/alarm-clock-insert.html The back of the clock needs to be open to hear it and I bet they are not very loud being that small. The only alarm clocks I ever made used the motor and dials.

There should be an allen screw on the opposite side of the screw that you use to tighten the blade. You need to screw that in some so that it is just even or a little proud of that edge of the holder. You want the screw you use to tighten the blade and that set screw to hold the blade. It looks like it takes a tool to tighten the blade. If that screw that you use the tool in does not screw in far enough that it touches the other side of the clamp then one of two things need to be done. Screw the allen screw in further from the right side (looking at the clamp) or change out that tightening screw to a longer one or bring it back. That saw has a tendency to be a problem with holding thin blades because of this. That flat head allen screw does not look too long and it maybe bottoming out before it gets to the blade. The thinner the blade the further it needs to travel inwards. Hope this makes sense.

I believe he is talking about domed type boxes

Looks great. Just saw the pattern this morning.