JTTHECLOCKMAN

Thanks Tony and again very well done.

The roll pins are hollow as you well know so less mass as opposed to solid pins. All the ones I have are roll pins and just pressed in. In fact I moved a couple to get them centered more so equal force applied. The solid ones maybe manufactured all one piece and not a dowel that moves.

Beautiful Tony. I too have this pattern and in fact I have many pieces cut withe frame made. I did not like the combination of woods I used thus I never finished because I need to recut that large center piece again. I planned on using stain glass for the boarders and background. I like the contrast in yours. Could you explain what woods went where. I can guess but it would be better to know for sure. I have made so many of Dirks patterns over the years and he is truely missed in the pattern world. The one I am most proud of is his I Am The LIght Of The World Cross. Job well done and thanks for showing.

Maybe this has been an issue and they made a change. I believe if that roll pin is turned just the right way when you apply pressure the slit will deviate some. Over time it could bend. Being solid will give more mass so it may not deform. Saw has been running great since I made the change.

I do not do compound cutting so can not address the tape issue. I would suggest you take some sandpaper and round the edges of the blade hole. The sharp edges maybe catching the tape in cutting into it somewhat. That is about all I got on that one. Good luck.

All aspects of this is great. Job well done. Thanks for showing.

yea that is one of the more modern ones. I bought mine when they first came out so no fancy stuff on it.

Kevin you will absolutely see how much dust it will collect. A dust collector is only good for collecting bigger particles. That will collect those nano particles that will get in your lungs. Have had mine for over 20 years and have changed the main filter twice since I had it I have vaced it out many times but there will come a time you need to change the filter. Not sure what kind of primary filter is on that one but mine is a plastic mesh so I am able to wash. The secondary filter which is the main one is cloth pleated. Some of those the primary filter is a basic air conditioner filter so easily replaced. When I got mine I noticed the air flow was a bit noisy so I lined the inside with some foam to quiet it and worked well. My big thing is I have a low ceiling so I more or less put it over the work table and won't get in the way. But I did put foam padding around the edges just in case. Now they only work well when you turn them on!!!! Mine comes on the minute I turn the light switch on and depending what I do in the shop I will leave running for an extra hour after I leave. As I mentioned in the other thread I am going to put a timer on that thing some day.

No the pressure is up against the roll pin because without that ,that notch does nothing. Tighten or loosen that pin is in play big time. If that pin is rolled with the slit straight up and down that is when it will have a tendency to bend. Look at it closely and you will see what I mean. If you took that pin out there would be no way to tighten the clamp. So the pin is actually the lever That notch has become worn too over the years. Newer ones fit more snug. Probably a combination of the wearing of the notched area puts more pressure on the pin. The arm has no wear on it. They do work in tandem so That definitely is the problem. I may revisit this at a latter time and take some photos. Right now I am pressured to get many projects done in a month and a half.

This is the first time I ever seen it mentioned in all the forums over the years. It was just a matter of luck I guess. As soon as I changed those clamps in question all has been well and I have completed about 5 more projects since. When I go to order the spare I may just talk to the rep over there and see if they encountered this before. I could actually see why it happens though because of the stress put on that pin when you tighten the blade. No getting around it. Maybe I am a little strong about tightening but I feel it needs what it needs. You can actually see the deformation if you look closely. Those pins are split so they will give some in order to get in the holes but that can work against them in this case because they are used as a pivot point on the arm. Anyway if anyone has an RBI file that away for a possible problem. As I said I had these for quite some time. I had replaced them over the years once before but for just getting extras. Happy scrolling.

Wow that is alot of wear on a vac if you have on foot switch with saw. I know myself I do a ton of pierce cutting and that thing would be on and off way too much. The Fein vac is very quiet but pricey. I do not use a vac but use a dust mask and have a air cleaner going to suck small particles out of the air. My larger tools I have a dust collector hooked to each tool. I do all my sanding outdoors so that is not a problem but if I have to, I do have a downdraft table I can sand on hooked to dust collector. After each session I shop vac all small pieces and any dust around saw so I am ready for next day. Leave the air cleaner on for about an hour after I am done and shut off later. I have been meaning to put a timer on that thing but like everyone time is not easy to find even when retired. Shop vacs are extremely noisy. Mine the bearing is going on it and it whines even louder. That thing owes me nothing. It is an old Sears model from many years ago. Have the air blower hose blowing dust away from me and any dust that is under saw who cares. I vac that at end of day.

The latest generation of Hawks the G4 has different blade holders. Now that I know this can be a problem I know what to look for if this happens again. I had these clamps for a long time so no big deal getting new ones. It is actually very easy to change blades so I have no problem with this system. Just never would have guessed of this problem but as I said I was lucky to have another sitting next to each other to compare. Not so good for those that may run into this problem and not have this situation. Hopefully this info can now be helpful and referenced in case it comes up again.

Kevin I used the red because back then it was all I had and really did not know the difference between the 4 different colors that loctite offers. But do now and will use blue from now on. Well I did some investigating today and here is what I found. First I put a block of wood behind the blade and turned on and I drew a straight line down Placed behind the blade and watched the blade flutter. I could see this with the naked eye but with the block of wood really shows up. So I went to the 226 and did the same thing. I have not used that saw all year this year so had to clean the table top off as I used for blade storage and small wood pieces that you hate to throw out. We all have those. Put the block behind that blade and it was as true as can be. Dead on. So I took the blade out of the 220 with the bottom holder and switched to the 226. Well the flutter showed up now on the 226. I put the 226 holder on the 220 and sure enough the flutter was gone. Now I had mentioned earlier I switched the blade clamp on the 220 when it all started. I had 2 that I constantly use for that saw. I have 2 that I leave with the 226. So I figured it has to be the blade clamps but what could it be. Well I compared the 2 bad ones with the 2 good ones and what I found was the roll pins have distorted ever so slightly from constantly sliding in and out of the bottom clamp. But what I think the real damage came from is when you insert a new blade and you use the hole on the upper arm that is designed to hold the clamp steady as you tighten. Well I believe all this time the constant torque put on that roll pin caused it to deflect and bend ever so slightly. And being I constantly change those 2 clamps because I like to preload one when I really get into scrolling production wise. That is why they both are bad. So the outcome is I am using the 2 clamps from the 226 and I will order a couple new clamps along with a couple more quick release levers for future use. Yesterday I could not even get close to a small piece or it would just jump at it and cut it off. Or we all know how to plane with the edge of a blade, well I could not dare do that. Had a couple mishaps that I was able to cover up but put a halt to the sawing because that Navy Plaque has so many delicate cuts. Today finished cutting it with no problem. Huge difference. Chalk this one up to the knowledge bank. I probably could just get some roll pins and push those out. May ask them if they have those too. Thanks everyone for the help. I am back in business.

OK to answer a few questions. Kevin you probably used a better word to describe the flutter "BLURRY" I rarely ever touch that back lever wedge. Only when I use small jewelers blades The tension on the blade is dead on Blade sits in top clamp as always I tried to nip a fraction off a blade to add even more tension without changing any settings but that did nothing so I am sure about tension. Now when I did the square test I had the arm all the way up and this gives me a look at alot more blade than if it was lower. I will try in lower position but will need a small square which I do have. When the saw is running and looking at the blade it is blurry as opposed to a straight line which it use to be and is on my 226. AS I said I have an advantage to compare side by side. My concern is side to side not front to back. The most logical answer is not enough tension and the blade will flutter but this is definetly not the case here. No vibration is evident. Nothing has moved as I use it. I will take a block of wood and paint it white and place behind the blade and move the arm up and down and watch to see if the blade favors one side or other as it goes through motion. It should travel in a straight line. I may take a washer and insert in the top clamp to tighten that play up and readjust lower blade holder. Maybe that has worn some with all the pierce cutting I do on that saw. It seems to have the same play as the 226 but we could be talking ever so slight measurements. I use red loctite on set screws when I get them set exactly so doubt they moved. I did change out the lower clamp and that did not fix the problem. I will take a closer look at top clamp. To be continued.

Well it was a good run for sure. I have owned my Hawk scrollsaws (220 and 226) for over 20 years and the only problem I ever had was the flip lever in front for tensioning wore out. Replaced very easily. My saws use the square block blade holders and it was the first year they went to them after the barrels. So whatever year that was I am not sure. One day I looked for my old receipts for those saws but came up empty. Thought I had put them with the instruction booklet but was proven wrong. Anyway before I call the company who I have not dealt with new owners so that will be a first and me diving in and taking things apart I thought I would throw the question out here in case someone has run into this problem before and points me in the right direction. I will give as much info as I need or at least can see. The problem is blade flutter or at least that is what I am calling it. I have been working the saws pretty hard the past 2 months and started noticing this problem just yesterday. I have cut the Navy Plaque similar to what Dick has shown in the bragging section http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/30654-navy-plaque/ Had done one already about 5 days ago. Had no problems and cut very well. But started another yesterday and now the blade is jumping all around and can not control it to make those fine turns and even straight lines. I tried real hard to steer the blade and keep it cutting but had to give up after I almost ruined the piece. Here is what I looked at. First I have 2 saws as I mentioned and it is the 220 that is acting up so will switch to the 226 till I fix this. I have something to compare to which makes things easier. I checked the blade for straight 90 degree to table travel and used a machinest square and that is dead on. Checked both saws for this. I switched blade a couple times thinking maybe a bad batch but the 226 they travel perfect up and down. In the 220 you can see a slight flutter side to side as it travels up and down. I know the first thought is maybe the setscrews are out of alignment, but if that were the case the blade would show out when the square was used. This does not. I check for play in the arm and motor mount and there is none and everything is tight. I looked for and cleaned for dirt in clamps and under table in case a small piece got stuck in armor something but that is not the case. Have changed lower blade clamp for I have several and that did not fix it. This was not a gradual thing. It was a 2 projects ago problem. Noticed it on another clock pattern I was working on but when I switched to the Navy plaque is when it really showed up. OK who can help me and if there are questions I will answer. Thanks. If I have to I will call next week to see what they say. If it is a bearing problem not sure how easy to replace and which ones to replace.

Just found this http://www.stevedgood.com/SF1.pdf

Can not help with this one. Never tried them. I too do not like poly. I am a laquer guy

Looking for a nice scrollable font. Like to see some ideas that others may use. Have been using mainly the basic Stencil font but sometimes that is not enough. Thanks. Examples to look at would be great.

No I do not know that is why I said there must have been something that was not made public. Believe me there are real woodworking forums that talk about this stuff all the time and this was hashed when it happened. No one seems to know why Bosch simply went away quietly. If you want to read all about this here is the link. There is also a link showing Bosch braking system. As I said there is not enough info about what happened exactly. http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/bosch-sawstop-embroiled-in-reaxx-table-saw-lawsuit/

I know where those numbers came from because you see them mentioned all the time. As I said the tablesaw gets mentioned because more people own that tool than most others. Radial arm saws at one time was up there in that catagory because they were a popular tool at one time. I won't get into the patent thing but will say this, something else went down with Bosch that is not public. Many times people have inventions and patent things and then someone comes along and tweaks something or changes one little thing and the next thing you know it is on the market and sold right next to the original. We see this all the time. Bosch came out with a better mousetrap that did not destroy the blade as sawstop saw does and the power actuator was a simple air cartridge that you can change out in a couple seconds. Totally different than what sawstop does. I have no idea what sawstop patent is but if it is possible to patent an idea I guess they did because that is all I see they had in common. The ability to sense skin and cause the blade to disappear in a blink of an eye. I wish Bosch would have fought it harder because they do have a better and cheaper mousetrap that would or could be incorporated less expensive on all saws and probably used on more tools also. Maybe when their patent runs out we will see more companies get into the technology category . As I said sawstop wanted the government to pass a law requiring all saws to incorporate their safety measure and they would have been king. That did not go as planned and that is why they make their own saw that is the most expensive on the market. Do not get me wrong the idea does work and is a great feature but Bosches was better because of the fact the blade is not destroyed when activated. That can be a huge expense. I know you can not put a $$ value on safety but manufacturers do. There are so many things in a shop that can hurt you. Again common sense reigns supreme and i think we are losing this gene. Just look at the drivers on the road today. Car manufacturers are also trying to protect us from ourselves. Accidents do happen be safe.

This thread has gone a different direction and sometimes that is going to happen.First off from what I have read there is no one here telling anyone not to use a guard or a riving knife or any other safety equipment associated with any tool in the shop. There are some and I am one who do not use a guard on the tablesaw. I do many different cuts including dadoing with the same blade as I cut cross grain and rip with. As I said I use feather boards which prevent kickbacks and push sticks which keep my hands away from the blade and jigs to support small pieces cut on my saw. I am very comfortable and no not good enough not to use those devices. Now all those that claim they use a riving knife do you really or are you using a splitter ?? Big difference. Splitter will not prevent kick back as much as a riving knife. Those that use a guard do you also use the pawls with it to prevent kickback or did you remove them?? The stats were brought up about emergency room accidents and this is always a good one because it has been used by SawStop for years too. Did they and I say go back and ask give the stats for other tool injuries such as routers, bandsaws, chopsaws, mitersaws, radial arm saws was always a big one, power skil saws, nail guns, and the list goes on. You would be surprised. Saw Stop the biggest maker of the flesh activated stop is only about the money. They were challenged by Bosch who came out with a better designed but SawStop inventors wanted to corner the market and try to force all saw companies to purchase their technology and incorporate it in their saws, so they sued them. Greed is their motivation. Does the technology work, yes but is not the end all answer. Many times you need to shut that system off and you better hope you turned back on when you need it. It is like anything in life, taking responsibility for our own actions. What others do is their business. But we seem to need rules and regulations to protect us from ourselves and this will never end. Those that use those guards and equipment make sure you are also using dust masks, eye guards and hearing protection. Just keeping the fingers safe is not enough. Always read and understand the instructions that come with the tools. Use all safety guards that come with the tools. Use proper tool for job. If it does not feel right it probably is not. Work in a well lit area. Work when you are not tired or in a hurry. Use common sense. Work safe please. Now I am off my soap box.

First they do make quick replace riving knives now a days. Snap in and out. Most new saws come with them. I do use mine on occasion if I know a board has internal stress. You can find for just about all saws. I am also in the camp of not using the blade guard. For me it is too cumbersome and obstructs my view too much. But I also use push sticks, featherboards and jigs of all kinds to keep my fingers away from the blade. I am comfortable with what I do and always respect any power tools or any tools for that matter. I worked in construction for 43 years so am way to familiar with things that can go wrong in a heartbeat. I do recommend anyone just getting into woodworking to learn to work with the blade guard. To me the most dangerous tool in the shop is a router. So many things can go wrong with that tool if you do not know what you are doing. Work safe everyone.

Tom you are correct. In fact that is where you start when tuning a tablesaw. The miter slots are the most constant thing or measurement on a tablesaw. They are machined with accuracy for depth and straightness or else a miter gauge would not push smoothly through them. Now the blade is set to match the miter slot for straightness. This is done by one of 2 ways. Moving the whole table top (cabinet and some hybrids ) or by moving the trunnions holding the blade mount. (contractors saw) Need to loosen both front and back trunnions here to set properly. There are many specific tools and gauges to do this but a simple block of wood can do the same thing. I can go into detail how this is done if anyone needs to do this and not sure how. In the end you want the front tooth of the blade to be the exact same distance away from the miter slot edge as the back tooth. Now you want the miter gauge to match this set up. I never go by those markings on the gauge or detents if your gauge has them. Now on better gauges you can set the gauge to be accurate. Again I use my draftsman squares when setting the moter gauge to the blade. A good 90 degree square works well as does a 45 degree or 30 degree square. Now the fence is dialed in to the blade. Will warn you if your saw has any runout in the blade arbor or the blade itself than all measurements will be affected. Happy sawing.

Not sure what you mean in that statement about not 100%. It is always a good idea to check that the blade is 90 degrees to the table top and the easiest way to do this is use a draftsman square. I have several of different size and angles and I rely on those alot for accuracy. Just make sure any time you check for blade tilt that the square is resting on the plate of the saw blade and not on a tooth. Also it is laying flat on the table and not on the throat plate which may be set a few fractions below the table and may not be level on all 4 corners. A fence should be dialed in on both the front and back edge to the blade and not the miter slots. As I mentioned I keep the back of my fence canted away from the back of the blade about the thickness of a dollar bill folded in half. Works for me. I then have to take this in consideration if I flip the fence to other side or else the wood will now be pinched on the back side of the blade and that is never good.