JTTHECLOCKMAN

Frank I have wanted this idea for quite some time to become reality. I like desk type clocks and had a few made up from designers here. Simple forms. I have also asked Steve Good a couple times to see if he would do a few and as of yet has not. I would be interested in areas such as the trades because I get requests all the time and have to tell them I have nothing because I am not a designer or pattern maker. Have done some over the years but nothing extrodinary. I would like to see trades such as Electrician, Carpenter, Plumber, Iron worker, Mason, Teacher, Secretary, Lawyer, Landscaper, Barber, Accountant, Auto mechanic, and so forth. Good luck.

It happens to us all. In fact just the other day I had a #5 blade break. Now I have been cutting for a very long time and it has been quite awhile since I had a blade snap that I did not expect. It did make me jump because I forgot what that sounded like. It startles you for sure but we all know just move on. The thing that is a little disturbing is I have been using FD blades for almost my entire scrolling career and always bought them from Mike Moorloch. Being he is no longer with us I bought my recent blades from I believe it was the teddy bear. There seems to be something different even though they claim to be the same blades. They do not stay as sharp as long any more and seem to have a burr on back edge. I will use these and check other packages before I buy again. I maybe changing blades for the first time in a very long time.

I do hope we all take a few minutes and remember 9/11 this Tues. It had an effect on all of us and I am sure it was one of those events we all remember where we were on that crystal clear blue sky day. The aftermath is something we are still paying the price for. Wrote a chapter in the history books that I hope never happens again but it is a reminder of how fragile we all are.

Very nicely done. I am sure she will like that. I just recently went through all of Steve's patterns and pulled out ones that will interest me. That was one of them. Will go with my worker theme. he does nice work. Thanks for showing.

Thanks everyone. I think I will just order some decals and use those.

Tried asking Steve Good this question but he maybe away or just very busy so thought I would throw it out here. I will be doing various military plaques and clocks over time and would like to incorporate the American flag as the backdrop for the backer board. My question I see ones that have a waving flag such as the one in the photo and was wondering if there is anyone who does this and where do you get the photo and how you go about attaching. Are you using a photo from some pinterest site and if so do you have a link?? What type paper are you printing on (photo stock or standard office paper) are you prepping the photo in any way before applying the overlay?? If you have an example would be nice. I am not a painter so painting this is not an option. Thanks in advance.

I keep coming back to this pattern and really love it and I believe it is the chain design helping make it stand out, Your cutting is spot on and use of color works well. Is that maple as the main woods and what thickness did you use for both top and back layer?? Is there a particular reason you went with black as the color back piece?? what size did you make it?? Tough to tell from photo.It does work well. I have to cut this. It is pretty rare these days when I get so inspired to make a cutting. I usually just go about doing some cuttings because I need a particular type for sale but this is so cool. Thanks for posting.

Speaking of fonts, thanks Kevin, is there a program that if you pick a font can you type words in and it automatically prints out in the font you chose???

Use purple or green painters tape. Less tack than blue. Blue--Purple---Green in that order.

Thanks Travis.

Dick that came out real well. It is funny because I just pulled that pattern from Steve's files yesterday because I liked the pattern also. Great job.

Thanks all I copied and put in a folder off site for future reference.

This will probably get moved but it is the forum I am most use to. How do you save a thread for myself so I can find it again easily?? I have some patterns drawn for me by someone and want to be able to reference them many times. They are within a thread I started and not the library. Thank you.

parts https://oldworldaccents.net/pyramid/pyramid-candles-replacement-parts.html?p=2

As I said I believe it was a design change due to making it easier to get at that rod. You could call them and talk with them or I believe they have a place for questions on the site. http://www.bushtonmanufacturing.com/WebsitePages/Contact-Us.html

I sit also and no you do not have to tilt the saw. You find the most comfortable position and go from there. All my saws are flat. I do stand at my hegner. I will stand at a sw if I am scrolling large pieces because the corporation in front gets in the way when spinning.

OK that is good and now what is it you want to know.??

This is the reason many times people question my work weather it was laser cut or scrollsaw. Many people do not even know what a scrollsaw is.

Jim what is the model number and serial number of each saw?? Which saw is which( indicate this. )I believe the saw with the tension arm extend out the back is the newer model because of ease to change tension. They probably had complaints of chubby fingers not being able to get at the rod. All saws today are outside the back braces. There were many versions but the the ultra was before the G4 and that was before the BM series. But I believe there was a series called the pro series before the ultra. I have the model in the second picture where the tension rod is not sticking out past the framing and I believe I bought mine in 93 or 94. I got one of the first saws where they went to the square blocks for clamps in stead of the barrels. So whatever year that was. The arms on both those saws are the same except for length. They changed the arm somewhat by reducing weight. maybe on the one where the tension rod is behind the frame the bottom of the top arm is hollowed out more than the other one to make up for the extra weight. You should be able to feel that. The G4 is where they started the I beam frame on those arms and carried over and improved on the BM series. The clearance on both saws should be the same. Measure center of blade to back of frame. As far as making the arms the same forget it. tension them the same way. All calculations were incorporated when made. As I said I have not touched that tension rod in years. The only time is when I switch to jewlers blades because they are so brittle and need less tension. If you want to know year of saw call RBI and ask them. They will know with serial number. If you do let us know what they say.

Kevin is correct on this.

Another Jersey guy here. Welcome aboard.

Done it with router. If doing with scrollsaw I always start with thicker wood then final piece needed so that when inlayed I can sand flat.

Kevin would probably be a good source of info for this question because he uses various platforms to sell his projects and is quite successful at it. There are some good threads in the business forum here that touch on selling at different venues that you might want to check out also. But will say this there is no half way thing if you are thinking of selling. If you want to do this legit you need tax id numbers and record keeping and whole lot other legistic paper work as well as inventory. To sell a few items on FB is possible Good luck.

With me I give a show 3 strikes. Bad for 3 straight years it is off the list and onto something else. Shows run their course as do items we make. Sometimes it is a matter of changing hands of running it and it does not get the promotion it once did. Others it just a change because the committee does not do enough to add new vendors or change things up and it gets stale. When doing shows, vendors and promoters rely on each other for success.