JTTHECLOCKMAN

Thanks Jeff. I made a few pieces over the years that were one of a kinds and I will never duplicate again. The cross for my Mom is one because of the added saying on the back and I also made a Yankee watch for my Dad who was a huge Yankee fan and got me interested and has become my favorite team. Had it engraved too. I never really show these off but the topic brought back memories.

One other little trick I have been using for some time now and works well. I hardly ever adjust that tension rod in the back. In fact I can't remember the last time I did. I have mentioned here many times my go to blade is a FD silver reverse #5 and I have have both my rbi saws set up for that blade with tension. When I change blades they are usually longer than this blade. So instead of resetting to accept the blade I just shorten it so that it fits nicely in the holder. The tension is never too tight unless when using jewelers blades. Those things are very finicky and all bets are off. Many times I will switch to the Dewalt when using them because easier to set tension without all that adjusting. Hope things continue to work out for you Les.

If it is a 60mm insert it fits in a 55mm hole or 2-1/8" If it is a 55mm insert then it fits in a 50mm hole or 2" hole

Les I own 2 hawks and in my opinion there is no way you could ever bend a blade from tightening too much with a RBI blade holder. Can not be done. If the setscrew was too far in from vibration then the blade would have a dimple in it and the blade would not be centered in the clamp and traveling true up and down. So you need to check that adjustment from time to time. Sometimes it is harder to explain than what it is but will try. I am going to believe you have a quick release on the top arm. When you pull that arm down, the top of the blade should fall nicely into that blade holder with the top of the blade hitting the bottom of the rod that is just above the thumbscrew. The back of the blade should lay flat against the back of the clamp (thus the reason you can not ever bend a blade like that with those clamps) While holding that there tighten the thumbscrew. It is a dance that becomes so second nature and is so easy to do. Now to the reason possibly you are bending is because when you place the blade in the holder it is rocking backwards and the back of the blade does not sit flat against the blade holder. Or you are pulling it too far forward when you insert the blade. In other words the holder is placing the blade on an angle that is not straight up and down and when it starts to cut it now moves back into the straight up and down position thus bending the blade which would explain how or why that far down on the blade it is bending. You need to keep that holder pretty close to straight up and down when inserting blade. Second thing or suggestion is you are leaving too much blade stick up into the clamp and it is past that roller bearing on top of the thumbscrew. That bearing is the highest your blade can go or should go. If you go in front of that and then push the blade with force to get back to tighten the thumbscrew you now bent the top of the blade as you shown. Now if this stuff is just happening you got out of your routine and or there is something else going on. Make sure both clamps pivot freely when a blade is installed so they can rock with the motion of the arms going up and down. Yes it is a good idea to keep the thumbscrew and setscrew cleaned and roughed up abit. I always clean the ends of the blades on both sides with sandpaper before using. Takes off the oil that comes on blades from manufacturing and gives a little tooth so that the thumbscrew does not slip when tightened. Then I do not have to crank so hard on it. If none of this works then report back and we try something else.

I believe a drum sander would be a better option than a jointer or a planer. With a good table saw you get dimensions close and then clean up with sander. I have a Performax 16/32 and it is a work horse for me. Could not do without for all projects.

Never oiled any of my saws.

I believe the letters are an overlay.

I made the top larger that the table to accommodate larger projects. I make alot of mirror that are unstable on the supplied table.

I have a clear acrylic extended top on my tables and I do not have to wax it at all. Just keep the dust off now and then. It gives me just enough resistance that the wood does not slide around too easily. Gives me better control. That is the way I like to cut.

I have not cut any projects that are hard sort of speak. Have cut projects that are much more time consuming but basically it still cutting. Now I have cut 2 projects that were very hard mentally and had a very hard time getting through because of the nature of what they represented. I posted this before here but is a cross I cut for my Dad's grave that stood till we were able to get a permanent grave stone. Because of the time of the year it stood for almost a year but was comforting for the family when they visited his grave site. The second was a cross I had made for my Mom and when she passed I placed it in with her when she went to her eternal home. I knew when I cut that piece that was the intention all along. 2 of the most difficult pieces I ever cut and probably ever will. I know this is not what the intent of this thread is but just hit me as I looked back.

I bought mine from Mikes as well. We too had a Mom and Pop hardware store that sold all number bits and use to buy from him but Home Depot put them out of business as they usually do. They were one of those places where you could find the most obscure item you were looking for. I miss them.

I have used it for my projects that I have lacquered. I also use it to wax my tablesaw top.

How in the world do they police that policy. That is for people who get scared about the label on the mattress too. (DO NOT REMOVE) I paid for the pattern and will use as I see fit.

As I said also it is a feel good thing for you. There is nothing wrong with it and everyone is different. I have never done it and never will. I am representing my work I cut the piece out not the pattern designer. He represented his work when he made the pattern but did not list me as a user or buyer. That customer will have no idea and could care less who made the pattern. They are buying your work. This as I said is one person's view. Good luck to all who sell their work and continue to support the pattern designers wherever they come from.

I would be careful about this statement. Not all shellac is the same. Some reading info.http://www.vrg.org/blog/2010/11/30/q-a-on-shellac/

I too have never run into a pattern that I bought that the final piece can not be sold. That does not make sense. You are not reselling the pattern you are selling your work. You have no control of people copying pictures and creating a pattern. Now some pattern makers may put a limit on sellable items but come on be realistic please. This concept of idea copyright thing is and always be one of those topics that can be argued from both sides. You see alot of this in the pen making hobby. People design a pattern and then hundreds of people put out their version. Barry Gross of scrollsaw fame and now pen turning fame was one who put some sort of pattern on his what he called watch part design and beer cap design blanks and threatened to sue others that made them. They are now made by hundreds of people all over the world. No lawyer could defend his claim. Now the only way he had a claim is if the person used the same parts and did exactly the way he did his which is impossible to begin with so no basis for claim but he still goes arou nd telling everyone he was the first which was proven to be not true. No one gives him credit when they make a watch part pen.

Never. My Dad taught that to me when we were building our dormers on our house many years ago. I had to screw the screws in for all the hinges on the doors. No battery operated tools back then. By hand. Use to walk around with a bar of ivory soap in my tool pouch. Sold the house 2 years ago after my Mom passed away and every door looked like it was brand new as the day we put them up over 50 years ago

Ray I will post my thoughts and are worth what you paid for them When making cutting boards because they will get cuts and scrapes you never want to use film finishes such a poly, lacquer, danish oil, shellac and others. I like to use Butchers Block oil which is mineral oil and vitamin E and get it here. http://www.rockler.com/butcher-block-oil be careful if using walnut oils or even scented mineral oils. Alergic reactions. Now I make many baskets that can be used for center bowl pieces on a table and can be used to hold rolls, fruit, cakes and things of this nature. I always use Danish oil on most of my projects and these are no exception. Now film finishes will be non toxic after and only after when they are fully cured. Not just dry but cured and each product will take time with different woods playing a roll as well as temperatures when finishing. When I sell these baskets i always warn my customers about chips or splinters or cutting into the wood and would prefer they use a dolly in the basket before putting product in them. I always have examples set up with this. Fake rolls, candies, flowers wooden fruit which a sell. If things like that are used then no cares are needed. I used to make a fruit holder that had a banana rack built into it and I always coated those with Behlens Salad Bowl finish.http://www.rockler.com/salad-bowl-finish

I will say again , What does the customer care where you got the pattern from??? Sometimes too much info on a web site is not good. Has no bearing for a buyer. If another scroller wants your pattern then let them contact you or work out the deal. If doing for your own records why not just list on your master list. When a designer sells their pattern and you paid money for it they do not make a list of buyers on their site. If a pattern maker goes to your site they can recognize their own work I hope and if you altered it maybe not. For files I always use numbers. I keep a master list of items with the # and a description of what it is and what woods used. Also the current price and if I made changes in price I make note. This is for me to see only. I know everyone does things differently but I just do not see the need to always list a designer. I have keep checking this point because I am not talking about sites like this where we have great pattern makers and if asked here then you reference them. It is just a quizzical question and I mean no disrespect to what others do. I am guessing this is more or less a feel good thing. I can maybe understand it more if posting in the bragging section and wanting to give credit. Oh well let me have it. I am the bad guy.

I love how everyone says they give credit to the designer. WHO are you telling?? You do not say here when photos are posted in bragging section. Unless it is someone asking for the pattern and that like I said basically happens on sites like this. But other than that do you write it on the project, have cards made up and if so who is going to know who these people are. So when you give credit who are you telling?? Just curious.

First off I use alot of Pintrust photos to come up with some of my ideas. They are usually one of a kind thing. I never get asked who pattern it is so I never say. Places like this is where you get asked mostly where can I find that pattern and then you mention how you came about it. I would never steal someones pattern here or other scrolling places unless asked and allowed. I show pieces here and unless asked I do not say.

I run mine all the time around that speed. Only slow down for plastics and metals. Depends on the blade. If you are not using a skip tooth blade for 3/4 then you are using the wrong blade.

Kevin I use Danish oil on 99% of all projects I make. I always do the staining outdoors and like you I try to get 95% of my work done by the fall so that when I stain outdoors I can leave to dry for a good 10 to 12 hours. I also do most my staining as a huge group. Unlike you I do not sell during the entire year so I can stock pile easier. I bring in house and down to shop and stage either on the line as mentioned or on a drying plywood rack. The worse part of the smell is gone in 24 hours and I have used this for so many years I have gotten use to and actually like the smell . The smell does not permeate over the house at all which has not affected anyone else so that is a good thing. Love my Danish oil.

That is because it was a gallery that was on the old system and when Travis upgraded he was not able to bring those galleries over with it. I never had the chance to start a new one here. Sorry about that.