JTTHECLOCKMAN

To get perfect circles on both the clock face and the backer is to use a circle cutting jig on a bandsaw. Once set up you can knock them out very quickly and accurately, especially if all your clocks are the same size. You could even stack cut them if you like with double sided tape and stack them as high as your blade guard allows. But as always need to allow the blade to do the cutting and not force the turns. They have kits or so easy to make I make my own. I do this all the time with my round mirrors. Just measure the clock pattern and that is the size circle to cut. If you want a 1/4 reveal then add 1/2" to the clock size. Cut the wood and attach the pattern. You will have the center hole already. I spin the wood on a nail but you can use dowels. The one with the spikes then I would do as suggested and just use a bearing or washer to make the backer piece and cut individually. I do not like the square idea.

You know what would be nice if you take photos of what you are doing or anyone for that matter to document it for others to see and refer to. seems there are many Dewalt users here and they seem to be constantly looked at and worked on. It would be nice to archive some photos of work being done on them. Maybe this thought can be applied to other saws as well if you have to do major surgery on them. Just a thought and I have plenty of those.

Baltic Birch plywood in my opinion would be a better choice. I have seen people just use a clear finish on them and sell them. Gives people an option to paint their own colors if they want. Probably cost is close. MDF would never be my choice of materials for crafting. Just my opinion.

Wax paper is so cheap and I use it alot when gluing pen blanks up or using a jig to hold glued up pieces and it works so well why mess with success. This method is probably good for what you are doing if that is the way you like to glue backers. too me too much glue and squeeze out can occur unless I am not following your method. Hopefully it can help someone Always good to get different methods.

For those that do not believe wood glue will hold up outdoors here is a project I did 12 years ago. My Dad passed away and it was a hard time for me and my family. We would go to the grave site to place flowers but just did not seem right. I know it was going to be quite some time before the family could all get together and pick a headstone for him and then time for the place to make it and install it and it would be well past winter. I just decided to take a scroll sawn pattern I had of The Lord and enlarge it along with designing a cross. I then added the letters by designing the saying and making them of proper size. This cross stayed on the grave site for almost 1 year and it was outdoors in all the weather and the winter was quite bad. Thus the granite people did not put the headstone there till sometime in June the following year. We did not care so much because I had placed this cross there and the family appreciated it. I never shown this on any site before and I only bring this up to make my point. The letters were attached with Titebond II not even III which is suppose to be water resistant. The wood used was mahagony which is a very good outdoor wood and the lettering and design was maple. I attached the letters just the way I described above. I finished in 6 to 7 coats of sprayed on marine spar varnish. When I took that cross away it was in as good shape as when I placed it there. It served its purpose and held up well so for what the OP is doing here he should have no problems being his sign will not see direct weather.

Man if you guys are recommending construction adhesive for some little letters than why not the original adhesive that started all those types, Liquid Nails or PL6000 Will not beat those for holding power. Could also add a few brads per letter.

Use them all the time. I mentioned this many times here. I use Penguin silver reverse #5 FD blades in just about all my cuttings. I cut mostly red oak maple, walnut and never ever ever ever had a problem with pulling up of wood. I allow the saw to do the cutting and do not push. never in a hurry here.

A few things here. You said the letter will be black and you are mounting to oak. Are you wanting the oak a natural color or will it too be black. I have done this before so I speak from experience when I say this. If you are leaving the oak natural and just painting the letters black, I would paint the letter with the back side flat on some cardboard so no paint gets on the back. I would then use Titebond III woodworkers glue to adhere them to the oak. What I like to do is lay out the letters on the backboard before gluing. When I have then aligned properly I make witness marks on both the letters and the backboard. Just small enough so you can see them. I usually put on bottom and one side. Now when you take them off and go to glue them you align the witness marks up as you lay the finished letters down in place. You now do not get squeeze out of glue or smears of glue all over the place. I use a real sponge when applying glue for things like this. I do this because it leaves small air pockets for excess glue to seep into and prevent squeeze out After the letters are dry and glue is set I would spray the entire piece letters and backboard with a marine spar varnish. Many brands out there. I would have painted the letters in flat black and let the varnish add any gloss that you choose. As I said i done this and it works well and if not in direct rain and bad weather it should last for a long time and if need be it can easily be touched up. This is my thoughts and my tricks when it comes to this. Good luck.

That came out real nice. All aspects of it from size to planning and finishing. Well done Thanks for showing.

These are very good people to deal with and wood is quality. http://www.dndhardwoodsonline.com/

I do not use a rubber stamp. I have shown what I use a few times here before. It is a wood signature branding iron I had custom made. You can get them many places these days. I use it on most of my projects that it will fit on.

I believe you have to contact Travis being that is the name you signed onto this forum with.

I have done my share of drywall work and have much left to do as I remodel my home. I always use those. I also have used the sanding sponges that work well for detailed sanding spots and small spots. Not sure why you would buy 5 when they do come 2 in a package too. Unless you have alot of sanding to do. i would leave those to sanding sheetrock and use wood sandpaper for sanding projects. http://www.amazon.com/3M-9093DCNA-Drywall-Sanding-Sponge/dp/B00004Z48A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524016494&sr=8-3&keywords=drywall+sanding+pad

Using different colored woods or materials for bases is a good idea and can enhance the look. I use green felt on all my golf related clocks to make look like a putting green. Clocks can make a simple pattern look so much more useful and appeals to more people in my opinion. The themes can be enormous and the sky is the limit when making clocks. Now what time is it I have to go to dinner.

I have been using these masks for so many years now and used them on the job site in construction as well so I guess I am used to to them and they work fine for me. I change masks regularly because if you take your mask off and lay it on a workbench for further use the dust that is in the air just gets inside unless you store in a container and what a pain that is. I always make sure to face the mask down when taking it off for the night and placing down on the bench. I always have a mask hanging around my neck for quick use when needed. Just something I grew use to and any mask is better than none. I sand my projects mostly outdoors but I still wear that mask when sanding. Kevin, Festool if you want top of the line vac. Quiet and efficient but pricey and you will pay for quiet that is for sure. Never was one for a vac system on a scrollsaw. sanders is where I would put a vac system but other tools other than a scrollsaw I use a shop dust collector system.

Jim "The Clock Man"

Jim what I am saying is leave the bike intact and do not put a clock in the wheels. Instead just make the base a little longer and put some sort of clock holder next to it. Be it may a round circle or some tool or object related to bikes and put it in that. My thought would just be a round circle as in the examples I show. On those military clocks the pattern never called for a clock but I added that next to the name of the branch of service. I do this alot on many patterns because I like clocks.

For doing scrolling and most woodworking in the shop I use a dust mask like this and never does it fog my safety glasses. I find this is all I need and I always wear one when cutting in the shop. But I also have my air cleaner running while in the shop. If use fumes I switch to a charcoal filter mask http://www.emedco.com/3m-8210v-n95-particulate-respirator-8210v-6279c.html?utm_campaign={*campaignid*}&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content={*creative*}&utm_term={*keyword*}&matchtype={*matchtype*}&device={*device*}&adgroupid={*adgroupid*}&msclkid=88598bc257c7100829cbd117a2fb3817&gclid=COjKg-qzwdoCFYzMswod40AFGQ&gclsrc=ds

You can always add a clock to the side of the bike and not alter it. Very easy to do that too. I probably would do that because the detail on the bike all around is very nice.

You do own a scrollsaw. No forstner bit needed.

I am not getting older I am getting younger. I reached the half way point so now I am working my way backwards. Hope to pass as a kid. I learned everything I could and now as I get younger I can compare my knowledge to when I was younger. It is the cycle of life. I can, t say I forgot I say I never learned it yet.

Many people make their own version by scrolling a handle or knob and drill the center out and epoxy the screw in. example: http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2014/08/diy-replacement-knob-for-sore-hands.html

I have to say I must be getting senile or something but I just realized something today that you are on the IAP pen turning forum also. Now I do not go there as much as I use to for various reasons but stopped there after I visited here today and noticed the same photo and put 2 and 2 together and came up with 5. Wonder how many others are on both sites. Many times I do not pay attention to names and just read the threads. I would not make a good witness in a crime. Officer: what color clothes was he wearing ?? Me: was he wearing clothes??

If I were to use the pattern the way it was drawn I would use a 2" insert on the front wheel. Definetly not the back because I think the chain linkage is a nice touch. If i were to shrink it then use a smaller insert. Depending what your concept of clocks are that you make will determine the size I would think. Also I would not do any fret work in the wheel.

I have to say this thread has been some of the most enjoyable reading I have done here. It is great that many people remember exactly when, how and who influenced them. It seems these same people are still enjoying this great hobby after many years and some maybe just beginning. To be able to take an artform and transform it into a 3D rendering of hand made work. The sense of accomplishment when done and to top it off people want to give you money for your efforts. To see the smiles on peoples faces when they see your work and purchase it weather it is a gift for giving or for themselves. It is a great accomplishment to go into the shop and smell the scent of wood dust and fumes of finishing agents and the sounds of the saws make it all so real and fantastic. To be able to sit in front of this machine for hours on end and turn out project after project. Maybe give some away or donate for raffles or just for fun it still is pretty amazing what we scrollers can do. I want to thank the fellow scrollers that shared their stories here and hope others will add to them and take the time to read what got others to this calm and relaxing place, behind a simple machine that all it does is makes a thin small blade go up and down and at the back end some wonderful projects emerge. Happy Scrolling.