Dan
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Everything posted by Dan
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Ron, that came out great. Looks like a lot of cuts.
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Hi Kevin and welcome to the village! It's nice to see some families with wood in their blood. Dan
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Looks great! That pattern works great with the cedar.
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I probably bought the same stand for my first scroll saw and, yes, it made a great difference. For the price, it's definitely a plus.
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Weclome Richard.
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I agree, it looks fantastic.
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That one should go in the puzzle contest! When I was in high school, my sister gave me a puzzle like that with salamaders, all the same shape. It was a blast to put together, all 300 pieces. Dan
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Welcome to the village! I'm sure you will find everything you want to know here. If you have any new ideas, we are glad to hear those too. Dan
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Wow! Great pattern and cutting. And what's especially nice, is the reason for the cutting.
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Welcome to the village.
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I downloaded a bunch from Wikipedia. They have some really cool old advertisements that have an expired copyright. You do have to be careful of the copyright rules, though. Here's a link to get started: http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Commons:Reusing_content_outside_Wikimedia One of the best places to get some great pictures, although no on line, are old calendars and Christmas cards. Dan
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Hi Michael and welcome to the village. Yes, definitely seal before you cut. I have used Krylon's Triple Thick Glaze and like the way it comes out. Other have used Modge Podge and yet others have used the glaze over the podge. I think it's preference. I don't concider myself a puzzle-head but there are a few here. I will say this, throw away any pattern for cutting jigsaw puzzles. It is so easy to just free-hand it. You can practice on some small cards. Oh, since you said you've been scrolling for years, show us some pictures! Dan
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I made one recently and did just as Dale described: drill a hole in the back big enough to push a dowel or pen through. Works great. Dan
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Steve and Terry, what is the model of your scroll saw? The blower on most are easy to fix. There is probably a bellow on the upper or lower arm that has deteriorated. You will have to replace it. It's not a major chore. The Forstner bits will burn on some woods. They tend to clog up when drilling. Are you using the bits in a drill press or hand drill? Either way, make sure you're drilling straight and drill just a little bit then remove the blade from the hole to clear out the wood chips. The bit will build up heat from friction and the only way I know to counter this is to let the bit cool. Dan
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Clayton, they look great! You'll never be able to stop now. I love purpleheart. I have one that was sort of a bland color, but it darkens with age. I read somewhere that if you put purpleheart in a very warm area, like on a radiator or on oven on low, it will speed the darkening process and turn very dark purple, almost black. Have fun! Dan
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Excellent job!
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Yup, I agree. Love the contrast of the oak on the dark background. Great idea.
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Way to go Clayton! As Barry said, grab a chunk of wood and practice. I watched a lady make a bunch of small candle holders. She said she was warming up for the bigger projects. Be sure to pick up a pack of micro-mesh. That stuff will do wonders for the finish. Dan
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Table saws scare me. I respect them and lucky so far to avoid anything more that a small scar and bruise on my abdoman from a flying board. Steve, I hope your finger gets fixed. You still have nine others, but, well,...how are you going to pick your nose? Dan
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Wow, that's a tough one. I started with a cheapo Craftsman and did some good work on it. If I didn't start with that, I wouldn't know how much better my Delta is. I don't regret that. I guess maybe it would have been nice to know more about the selection of blades. Dan
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Hi Ceeg and welcome to the village. As Travis said, the tutorials in the university are excellent and the instructor did a great job . I will testify to that. Inkscape is excellent for making ornaments. Dan
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Hello Dave and welcome to the village. There is so much knowledge and helpful folks here, you're sure to find the answer to your questions. Here's my thoughts on chipping plywood. Are you using the blades that came with the saw? Those are good blades to get started, but they may be too big for the work you're doing. Blades with fewer teeth per inch will chip thin plywood even if you stack them. You should probably use a #3 or possibly a #5 blade. Aslo, if I remember, the blades that come with the saw don't have reverse teeths. Reverse blades have a few teeth at the bottom that cut on the upstroke to clean the bottom of the cut. This reduces "fuzzies" (one of our technical terms). You can get blades from a number of places but I get great blades and great service from Mike at http://www.mikesworkshop.com/. He also has some info to help decide what type of blade to get for the type of work you're doing. Well, I've rambled enough. Hope this info helps and enjoy the addiction. Dan
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Hey, that does look nice. So, I guess you do more than scrolling. By the way, I've had some cookies that would probably work well in your joinery. I knew what you meant. Thanks for sharing the photos and let us know when it's painted and full of books. Dan
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Welcome to the insanity. You'll love it here. Since you've been doing this for a while, I'm sure you have some pictures to share. Dan
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I haven't used lemon oil, but I do believe it will bring out the grain. You have to watch it though when doing intarsia. I finished a piece and it looked good before the finish, but I rubbed some BLO and the grain popped out too much and changed the way it looked. My guess is lemon oil may act the same. I'd give it a try though. As for how to apply it, I've seen Steve Good dip his pieces into lemon oil. I wouldn't do this with intarsia because it may affect the glue-up, unless you want to dip the whole thing after it's glued together. I think you could also rub it on. Someone will chime in soon and give you their experience with it. I will also follow this thread so I can how well it works. Dan
