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Terry Jay

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  1. Terry Jay
    Seyco sells the Excalibur parts, and the blade clamp screws are the same on both. Also, you will eventually need the insert tips and replacement set screws, they do wear out. In a pinch take any of the clamp screws to a hardware store with bins of screws, they usually have a place where you can try fitting your existing screw in until you find the right one, then you know the correct diameter and thread and can find more in the bins.
  2. Terry Jay
    Seyco sells the insert for the thumb screw and the set screw as a package. I try to keep a couple on hand, Rubbing them on sandpaper will extend their life but they do not live forever. The clamp itself will eventually wear out, as it is soft aluminum and can be spred just by repeated tightenings, and can also have the treads stripped by repeated tightenings. Another part to have on hand. I believe most clamp parts between EX and Dewalt are interchangeable, but I could be wrong on some detail or another. For the lower clamp put the set screw in the right hand side and the thumb screw in the left hand side, it will make for a slightly but noticeable better grip on the blade. Terry
  3. Terry Jay
    I get Baltic Birch at a specialty store about 50 miles away, Edensaw, for around $25 per sheet, or a $1 per square foot.. It is mostly used for backer material. Actual scrolling wood is locally sourced, finding someone selling logs and a local sawmill to slice it in the desired thickness. I usually go for 1/4" so I can sand it and remove all the saw marks. Natural edge is best for my markets, yours may vary. Terry
  4. Terry Jay
    That is great. Great pattern, great job. Is there a place I could get that pattern? Terry
  5. Terry Jay
    I have had the EX21 for about 6 years and have never had the white over-center lever slip..I have a spare lever assembly and spare upper and lower blade clamps. Have replaced the lower blade holder several times. It gsts 50 or more times use than the top one. I do have to rplace the inserts on the knob screws and th set screws regularly, as well as sand them square from time to time. Terry
  6. Terry Jay
    That is a good price for a gently used Type 2. I got a nearly unused Type 1 for just a bit more than that several years ago, but in a very small market in Alaska.
  7. Terry Jay
    Drats! Web Site, Black and Gold Saw. Decisions, Decisions....... :>)
  8. Terry Jay
    I cut a lot of things in stacks, in fact almost everything is stacked to around 3/4" or more. I am usually cutting as many as 5 or 6 copies of the same thing. I have found that cutting 1/8" and 1/4" decreases my control because there is not enough resistance and the blade can go flying off if I make the least little adjustment improperly. So I use stacks as a defensive measure. Try taping up two and three layers of 1/4" into a 1/2" stack and a 3/4" stack and cut a pattern on each. Just wrap a stack in painters tape and glue the pattern on top. You may find one or the other easier to cut. Terry
  9. Terry Jay
    Just a suggestion... Use a very stiff blade. Back off the set screws a turn both top and bottom, then lightly clamp the stiff blade both top and bottom, then firmly tighten the left hand set screws top and bottom. May need to repeat the bottom every few days. Use of Blue loctite will help The bottom clamp is the one that always slips or deforms the blade, but it is operated 30+ times as often as the top clamp. Periodically remove both sides top and bottom and put what you took out of the top in the bottom and the bottom in the top. The end of the T-screw has a machined part that is replaceable. A set of the replaceable tip and the opposing set screw can be purchased from Seyco for $12. When slippage becomes intolerable the replacement parts will solve the problem.
  10. Terry Jay
    You said an animal jig saw puzzle. If you are cutting 1/4" or less, then a puzzle blade would be good. If you are cutting stand-up puzzles in 3/4" stock as suggested by saying you are using pine, then you may need a #1 or # 3 blade. I use a # 3, skip tooth and no reverse teeth.
  11. Terry Jay
    Clayton, you may be able to find a lightly used DeWalt Type I on CraigsList or such. The DeWalt problems are pretty much concentrated in the current Type II. The Type is listed on the motor decal on the same line with the serial number. The EX is also a fine saw, and the tilting head is wonderful for cutting bowls and such as you are not fighting the workpiece trying to slide off the table on angle cuts. They also have extremely good customer support and service. It is my preferred saw for nearly everything.
  12. Terry Jay
    To prepare the wood surface, a sander. The random-orbit will usually give the finest surface, anywhere from 220 to 320 grit. To cut the blanks, a table saw. To get accurate vertical holes of any size, a drill press. If you re-saw to get thinner boards, a band saw. It all depends on what you make and what you start with. Terry
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