kmmcrafts

beautiful work on the table, I'm no longer posting my work on here either, Now from the car guy on here, LOL.. That looks like a AMC Pacer in the background? If so, that be the first one I've seen in about 30 years, LOL

That's the blade I run.. and I just bought it so that is kind of why I was wanting to stick with a 10" saw rather than the 12.. but after researching more.. I may end up going with the 12" saw just because it seems to have the largest cross cut.. Anyway.. I've run several brands and configurations of blades on my saw but this one has been the best by far.. I was planning to send in my old blade for sharpening and tuning. Not sure what that cost but the place I buy my lumber will send them out to some company that sharpens them etc..

Seen this model last night while researching online.. I really like this model and this might be the one I shoot for unless something better comes up.. What is important to me besides a quality saw is the larger width it can cut.. so far this model has the largest 90 degree cross cut. I'm planning to start making some signs on my CNC.. and right now I'm all the time having to flip the board to be able to cut all the way.. and this is on small signs 10 - 12" My CNC has a 24 x 24" capacity.. well actually 24 wide.. since it's open frame CNC I can carve any length so long as I stop and move the board through and able to re-align everything, LOL Anyway I see a need for a large cross cut saw.. Probably mostly work with 14" or less but anything that can cut that or larger is what I'm looking for.. I also see a open end drum sander in my future too, LOL

Nice work! Two of my good friends are ham radio operators.. I've made some desk plaques for them over the years. I sell a lot of these clocks.. and many customers have me add the call sign to it. I usually do a larger rectangle at the bottom near the base with the added call sign.

I did notice that some said ( I think ) 1"? arbor.. and I know mine Hitachi isn't that large.. so it is something I need to watch for when buying or I'll have to consider the cost of another new blade.. I run a miter saw blade like Bob mentioned.. which is not very old and not the cheapest blades.. why I was hoping to stay with a 10" blade, lol

Have this one but the battery died one day.. so I came in the house for lunch and recharged the battery. When I went back out to finish the motor wouldn't work. Then the wife suggested to buy the refurbished Hitachi.. Actually still have this Craftsman one but the battery dies way to quick. On a more serious note, you can take the battery packs apart and change out the cells.. usually way cheaper than replacing the whole battery pack. That said though.. I don't see why one would want a stationary battery powered tool, are you sure it's not a jobsite table saw? I've never seen a battery powered table saw.. Then again I never seen a battery powered miter saw until yesterday when researching them. I could see that being handy for construction sites etc.. it was actually hard to find a corded one on the refurbish tool site..

Neither, Shortwave radio, LOL.. That's what happens when the wife starts talking and interrupts my thought process which is easy to do these days for some reason, LOL

I was eyeing that last night and was kind of thinking about pulling the trigger on it, I'm torn kind of between that one and this one from HD.. Since I kind of like to have the stand too.. the HD one actually a little lower priced I think.. buy the time I also buy a stand. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-15-Amp-10-in-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-and-Universal-Miter-Saw-QUICKSTAND-TSS103-A18MS01G/313307258 Edit: actually no the HF one is $10 cheaper with a coupon I have for $15 off the stand.. If I wait for the big 25% coupon then it'd be quite a bit cheaper maybe.. Off subject sort of but do you happen to use the "Honey" extension for automatic coupon codes when shopping online? Many times people will put in their coupon codes and it picks up coupons that get used.. and will give you the best price on things.. Sometimes it doesn't find a working coupon.. but many times if I shop online it'll pull a 25% off coupon code and I don't have to wait for one in the mail or email etc.. That's how I got the coupon for the stand..

I had a nice 1950 craftsman radio saw that I gave to my uncle about 6 years ago because I had it two years and never once used it.. About a week later I thought of all kinds of things I could use it for, I kick myself for getting rid of it.. But then again, the thing was huge and very heavy..

Nothing wrong with my old Hitachi 10" miter saw other than I would like to be able to cut through a 90 cut without having to flip my board over and make a second cut. I mostly just use it for a chop saw to cut boards down to a more manageable size. Most my lumber is purchased in 8-10 foot lengths, and seems a bit difficult to cut that long on my scroll saw for some reason. Thinking I need a sliding miter saw.. seems many will do at least a 10-12" cross cut.. seems like that'd work well for me. Would like to stay with a 10" blade since I have new higher end blades on hand for various purposes. Not looking to spend more than $1000 and as always lower cost is always better but wanting a quality tool. Once I get rolling on the CNC making signs I feel like it'll get used a lot. The one I have is old, maybe bought it around 2000-02 and it's used probably a few times a day, every day now. I bought the old Hitachi as a refurbished one.. and refurb is probably where I'll look once I find something suitable if there is a refurb available then that is what I'll do.. I don't have a router stand either, I mounted mine to a cheap universal HF stand.. I seen Home depot had a ryobi package with a stand etc.. think it was nearly $300.. Not sure how good a saw they are.. Anyway what do you have or recommend.. features you like / dislike etc.. My Hitachi has a LED line which is nice to have.. I see some say a shadow light.. not sure how that compares to the LED..

No Pictures it didn't happen..

That $0.10 can might be able to turn into a $20 item with about 15 hours of work designing a pattern and sawing up the said design.. Gosh that seems like a better deal than buying wood.. Sounds like a great bargain for those that only care to cover your cost and replenish your cutting medium.. This way you're replenishing your beverage and scroll sawing materials..

I just posed the other day about my new pin nailer.. I bought it from Harbor freight.. While I have very little experience with it since I've only shot about 8 mails with it, LOL It seems to work great for what I bought it for.. This is the one I bought, I also bought the 1/2" and 3/4" nails from them when I ordered it.. I bought it online since the shipping cost me about the same as driving there.. https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gauge-pin-nailer-64143.html?_br_psugg_q=pin+nailer I had a 25% off coupon and I think the whole order cost about what the nailer would normally cost.

Mine was a later type 2 as well and I really had no issues with it.. Not saying a DW isn't a good saw.. But if you're trying to decide between a DW and a Pegas.. In my mind the Pegas is way better saw.. If your budget is stuck at the $500 range look for a good used Hawk or Hegner.. otherwise if you are stuck on buying new.. then yes.. DW it is I suppose.. just plan on buying another one in a few years or rebuilding it..

Might depend on if your DW was a type 1 or 2? Remember all the topics of people drilling oblong holes on the front brackets to move the linkage so it was less aggressive? Remember reading about shimming the table to make it less aggressive? A lot of folks hated how aggressive those saws were.. Mostly started out with the type 2 saws I believe.. I had a type 2 but I guess as you all stated I never knew any difference.. did take me some time to get used to how fast it cut when I got it from the old Delta and Dremel saw I had before the DW.. took some time running the speed dial slower than I normally did with the other saws.. DW may have fixed this as there was a lot of complaints about them type 2's It doesn't affect everyone the same way.. and a different choice of blades can slow the saw down some.. ( ie some people say the Pegas MG blades are too aggressive.. while many others love them.. could be just the difference in the saw set up rather than blade. ) I used to use only FD UR blades in my old DW.. but when I went to a Hawk it seemed slow going.. mainly because the DW I was used to was a aggressive cutting saw and the Hawk not so much.. can get way better detail on the Hawk than the DW even though projects looked good on either saw there was a noticeably better crisper corners etc from the Hawk.. So using a slower blade isn't going to change the better detail of sharp corners etc.. However you can go into the corner and back out etc. and still make a nice corner.. just takes a little additional effort.. Many people go into a corner and back out and inch their way around to make a nice sharp corner on the DW type saw.. but with the Hawk you just go in and turn the corner.. My point in my last reply is more about having a saw that you can adjust the aggressiveness is a nice option for a newbie to help them learn control and also help with either making it more aggressive or less aggressive for the projects you make..

Yep, I agree with Rolf, Many people are quick and easy to suggest a saw without really knowing what the intended user will plan to cut with it.. I can't imagine trying to cut some of that paper thin wood that they use to make pictures with different types of wood etc.. Can't remember what it's called but it's real thin wood.. I think it'd be pretty tough job to do on a aggressive cutting saw like a DeWalt.. Even a lot of folks struggle with learning and trying to keep a blade cutting where they want it to.. a aggressive cutting saw just makes that harder to learn.. so in my mind the best entry level saw is going to be one that has a adjustable blade movement for less or more aggressive cutting styles.. I'd say a Pegas would be about the best fit for a new person.. Not really built like a tank like a Hawk or Hegner but very versatile saw with all the user friendly adjustments and whatnot.. seems it would be about the easiest most sensible saw for a wide variety of scrolling styles and projects one might want to try..

A little cumbersome but a C-clamp or a bench vise and some pieces of pipe or sockets can press the bearings too.. I'm sure there are many other useful ways of doing it as well..

I'll bet that made a bit of noise if you turned it on before realizing that..

Store my glue in the house which is always around 70- 75.. and yeah glue does expire.. I don't use enough to buy bulk either..

The weldbond glue that I had purchased was quite thick.. so much so that I had to dilute it some.. I was told that it's not normally that way and I must have gotten a old dried out bottle that had been sitting on the store shelf for some time. The bottle I have is the only one I've used.. but it's quite low and I probably going to need a new bottle soon.. I think normally it is supposed to be similar to the Aileen's tracky glue.. that is another that I have used too without issue.. The weldbond bottle says you can dilute it.. I'm not sure by how much and if it affects its holding power..

Not sure where are are located and what kind of temperatures you have.. if it's quite cold out my old DW would do this until it warmed up good.. sometimes just running it erratically with no load on it for a couple minutes would do the trick.. run fine until I come in the house to warm up or eat.. go back out.. same thing until it run for a few minutes.. even times it wouldn't even start at all without pushing on the blade chuck to get it a push start so to speak.. A few times I'd take a space heater and place it where the heat could warm the motor up a few minutes and it work as normal turning on by itself.. Summer time run great.. didn't like the cold I guess.. course neither do I but... LOL Anyway, just a thought too.. Could be possible to have the circuit board going bad. I know it happens but most times the motor itself is not the issue..

I also use wood glue for the most part.. that's if they are both unfinished wood. If the backer is painted then I use WeldBond glue. My application process is to use wax paper or a plastic trash bag.. pour a pile of glue and spread it around evenly a thin layer large enough area to be able to dip the cutout into the glue.. this gets a even coat of glue on the entire piece quickly.. Then just set it onto the backer piece and add weight or clamps etc.. I usually stack books on top for weight. This works awesome if you're gluing a larger batch of projects all at one time.. I usually am stack cutting things so typically gluing up 3-6 projects at a time.. I just use a old credit card or something to spread the glue around for good coverage for each piece I'm gluing.. Seems to be the best method I have found.. I used to just place a few drops as Dan mentioned.. But this is my go to way now..

Sounds like a broken Harley Davidson LOL.. Does the saw seem to run smooth even though is sounds terrible? Is everything clear of the rocker arms at the front of the saw? I've seen where the lower arm guard thing got bent once and sounded similar to that.. Also had a saw where the Bellows rotted away and broke.. which made a similar sound.. Is the Bellows hooked up and fasten to the rocker arm correct? I know you mention it sounds like it's coming from the back of the saw but sound can travel through the saw in odd ways.. My gut tells me its the rocker assembly at the back of the saw.. either the connecting rod deal that connects to the motor or that long arm that it connects to that spans between the upper and lower arm rods.. Also wonder since you say the bearings and sleeves looked good etc.. I question if it's put together correctly.. I know you say you took lots of pictures etc along the way and maybe you have it put together the way you took it apart.. But what's the odds that maybe the previous owner took it apart and put it together wrong.. Might want to study rebuild videos that Bob put up and compare how it's put together.. Just some thoughts.. It's definitely a issue..

So putting metal on the back of the stack will help and it doesn't jam up the nail gun? I mentioned about trying this on the other post a month or two ago about doing this and many said it'd probably jam the nail gun.. It might if you was trying to use a 1 inch nail in half inch wood but seems like it would be fine for just a minimal amount to keep it from protruding the back side just a small amount.

Vibration and noises can go hand in hand and the noise can travel through the saw and come out at odd places.. My Hawk has adjustable feet on the legs.. if I bump the saw hard enough to move it slightly it'll either vibrate or make a sound that isn't normally there.. Sometimes I have to sort of kick outward at the stand legs to get it planted to the floor firmly.. Doesn't take much to throw it off balance.. My EX-21 is the same way.. and there is no visible wobble to the stand or anything like that.. it seems like it's solid to the floor when in fact it's not.. I think I mentioned this already and it was said you had it solid on the floor.. If factory stand the DW's have a three legged stand and there isn't as much of an issue with this.. that said though.. just for kicks.. run the saw and sort of tap the legs to just slightly move the saw and see if there is any different sound from the saw or if it makes any difference..