kmmcrafts

Last year at my son's conferences the teacher talked about how he had gone to the same career center that he now teaches at, I mentioned that I also went there for auto collision repair. We started talking about cars etc. he was showing pictures of his Porsche that he restored.. I could tell he was really into his Porsche cars.. This year with Covid and all my son has helped a lot with the school both grade school and the career center school with computer tech stuff. He is in computer networking classes and does cyber security work and competitions etc. Anyway since I live out in the boonies we are limited for internet to slow DSL and with the wife working from home and son doing zoom classes etc.. so the teacher had given us some tech tips and a device that sped up the internet some. I made a clock of his car similar to this one as a thank you for a couple computer parts he gave me. ( I didn't get photos of the actual one ). Well I used the same pattern but I didn't like how the wheel wells blended with the body so I redid it and changed it around the wheels. My son took it to school today to give him. He open the box and was like "oh cool" then said I must have done that with a laser or something, my son said no he cut it by hand on a scroll saw. He didn't believe my son and actually took it to the construction class teacher and he said it was done on some sort of laser as well. LOL My son showed him my website and he told my son that I need to be charging a lot more money, LOL Tonight the phone rings and its the teacher.. He just had to say thanks but he really had to know how I made it. He still can't believe it was done on a scroll saw. He has a big Porsche meet tomorrow and he asked if he could take it and display it at the show and asked if he could make up some fliers with my website and email etc. My son sent him links to some of my videos on my yourtube of me cutting so he could see how it's done. Anyway, cut from Cherry as usual and used a #3 Pegas MG blade and a FD #2/0 spiral for widening some of the veining.

I think you're thinking of a DeWalt since you mentioned tension slider? He bought a Excalibur was my understanding. Or was you replying to Seeseasaw? as some of those old EX saws had a slider similar to the DW. I'm confused, LOL

I'd make sure your blade isn't slipping from worn thumb screw / set screw or the clamping point for a better explanation.. The set screw and thumb screw tips can get worn.. and eventually either need to be replaced or ground down flat again.. Also a good idea to clean / sand the ends of the blades, the blades have a light oil applied to them to prevent rusting and that oil over time can also build up on the clamping points ( thumb screw / set screw ) and cause slipping blades.. These are common issues..

I'll second the Johnsons paste wax.. Bought a can back in 2007.. and I'm still using the same can.. I not only wax the scroll saw table with it.. but also the table saw the planner bed bandsaw table the jointer top etc. and every summer I clean my shop real well and actually wax the machines and stands.. Saw dust doesn't stick to them so bad and it keeps my tools looking new. My can is getting pretty low now as the last two years I've been seeing the bottom of the can but still plenty in the edges of the can..

Always thought the same thing about those few states that have strict rules, California comes to mind as one of those states.. Being on many car and tractor forums and hearing how you can't add aftermarket exhaust and intakes.. can't get lacquer and other types of auto paints and cleaning solvents.. Not to mention all the products I hear on the woodworking sites where you can't get certain things like mineral spirits etc.. Certainly not a place for me..

I don't think the people you called know what they're talking about.. It shows it available in 8.5 x 14, 11 x 17, and 12 x 18 inch sizes.. 8.5 x 14 Link https://www.onlinelabels.com/products/ol1588?src=dlc-385 11 x 17 Link https://www.onlinelabels.com/products/ol915?src=dlc-385 12 x 18 Link https://www.onlinelabels.com/products/ol1097?src=dlc-385

Anyone else saving their sawdust in case they need to glue it all back up for making more boards.. The price of lumber is making me think the saw dust in my dust collector is probably worth more than the projects I'm making, LOL I read on FB that the reason for the price hikes is due to Covid and the mills only running half capacity.. Not sure how true that is.. I'm just thankful to have enough lumber on hand to get me through about a year + Also thankful I bought 20 sheets of BB ply right before the prices started creeping upwards.. though I wish I'd have bought some other sizes besides the 1/8" thick.. Now that I'm messing with the CNC a little.. but maybe the prices will keep me pushed back on running it much.. Don't take long to create a lot of scrap on that thing since I barely know what I'm doing, and with the prices of wood, I can't afford scrapping anything.. Might not be long before I'm weighing and bagging up my fine gold dust ( sawdust ) into small baggies and selling it.. On a more serious note since I brought it up.. What do you guys do with your sawdust? I take my bags from the DC to my brothers sawmill and dump it into his sawdust pile.. since he sells the stuff to farms and landscapers etc.. Beats throwing it in the trash..

Believe it or not.. Inflation.. We are seeing many many things taking huge price increases.. They are saying it's because of shortages and supply / demand.. But lumber specifically OSB and some building materials are through the roof.. I see the place I buy my BBply says.. "Call for pricing" I think if you all need some BBply and can find it at your usual prices.. Now might be a good time to stock up.. Also.. Danish Oil is scarce I haven't seen a price hike yet but I believe it's coming.. I like to buy it by the gallon.. can't find gallons anywhere.. I finally broke down and bought a couple quarts on Monday to get me by for a little while.. I've seen on some websites that the gallons are expected to be in stock ( I think ) April 19th?

Imagine how many subscribers they'd get if the internet disappeared suddenly... we wouldn't have all these forums / groups to get access to patterns and many folks would depend upon a magazine and pattern books. I've been saying this since around 2005... They really should be focusing on a electronic / online version of the magazine..

Guys in my CNC groups use Oramask.. It's used for painting.. ie sand your blank and top coat with clear sealer of choice such as shellac or poly.. place the oramask on then carve the piece on the CNC. Once carved you paint the carved out area. without having to worry so much about getting paint where it isn't supposed to be painted.. then peel off the oramask. I'm not sure what the material is made of.. but I tried using shelf liner instead of the oramask as a cheaper product. But the CNC sort of shreds the edges of the shelf liner and also the paint softens the liner to create a large mess, LOL The oramask could be used in place of the shelf liner if you like paying more for products.. Also heard complaints about the oramask removal is hard as it sticks very well.. We used the stuff in the autobody world for custom graphic paint jobs like flames etc.. Good stuff but pricey. The scroll saw stick and release tape sounds interesting, but again.. seems a bit pricey considering the shelf liner is like $5-6 a roll.. and I want to say those rolls are longer that the 20ft. scroll saw tape stuff is.. I don't have issues removing the shelf liner when using the full sheet shipping labels.. but it is more difficult for sure when using spray glues.. Maybe if you are set on using the spray glues.. Oramask may be a better option or the scroll saw tape. I just know that the oramask holds up well with some pretty potent chemicals.. Then again.. it sticks well to so removal might be worst than the removal of some of those very sticky shelf liners.. Again, only time I have had issues with removal of shelf liner is when I use the spray glues.. Possibly need to let the spray glue dry out more on my pattern before placing it on the liner covered wood blank.. Maybe that's my issue..

Really a 55 gallon drum? Just thinking of all the fun pranks I could pull if I had a drum of that stuff.. Thinking the spray cans would last longer than the drum for me..

I stopped my renewal about 10 years ago.. I've often thought about re-subscribing.. over the last couple of years, more so for just supporting the magazine.. Even in the prime of magazines I rarely used a pattern from them.. as I always hated the way they lay the designs out on the huge paper then you have to crinkle it folding it up to fit into a scanner etc. Then scanning another pattern from the same sheet you have a crinkled up paper.. just never made any sense to me the way they do it.. BUT anyway.. it is nice reading material etc.. and could be gone if everyone was to drop it for the online clubs/ groups / pages.. etc.

IF I'm doing my math right.. the peel and stick full sheet 8.5 x 11 shipping labels like I use is $0.08 each.. I buy large quantity for better pricing than what I can go to the local box store and get 20 sheets for so there is that.. I get 1000 sheets at a time and it's now ( priced raised as my last purchase at the beginning of the year was $60 ) $80.. You can shop around and probably find it cheaper.. I do try to buy this brand though as I've had some others that didn't stick real well.. may have been someone's old stock or something too since I typically buy off eBay.. Regardless.. to me it's worth it since you get all the sticky overspray from spray glues and the hassle of clogged nozzles etc etc.. sticky fingers.. buy the time you price out the can of spray.. your regular sheet of paper and the time it takes to use the spray etc.. peel and stick is just what works for me the best.. I still keep spray glue around for those 4-5 times a year that I do a larger project.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Shipping-Labels-Full-Sheet-8-5x11-Self-Adhesive-PACKZON/172818314778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Little late here but I hope you all had a great Easter.

Google or other search can be your friend when you think something isn't available.. Late last summer I searched around for larger self adhesive paper.. It's certainly out there and can be ordered.. I have yet to buy / try it because for me.. just doesn't seem worth it since I only have to do larger patterns maybe 4 times a year at most.. But.. anyway.. they have 11 x 17 full sheet label papers.. actually larger than that if you have a printer that can handle that.. My printer is maxed out at 11 x 17.. Edit: forgot to add the link to the site I found.. Lots of sizes and layout options.. https://www.onlinelabels.com/uses/wholesale-labels

I may try this and see what happens.. I'm certain that the patterns / liner comes off much harder than when I just use the liner with a shipping label.. I also hate the messy sticky glue overspray not only around the area of where it's sprayed but also my fingers.. Yeah I could wash my fingers with mineral spirits ( I'd have to buy some as I don't use it or keep any around or wear latex gloves etc.. but those things are also a hassle.. ) Just peeling a full sheet label and sticking it to the shelf liner seems to be the best method for me..

I've meant to post this the last time I used spray glue and got side tracked and forgot.. 6 months later here I am doing a larger pattern so I need to use spray glue instead of printing the pattern on a peel and stick full sheet shipping label. SO here is what I've been finding.. The shelve liner has always worked real well for me... never had a issue with it being stuck too good and peeling up pieces of the wood fibers like I have seen others post about from time to time.. BUT, when I use the spray adhesive ( in this case I used 3M 45 but has done the same with most other brands I just never put it to thought that it was the adhesive ) I find that the liner comes up harder.. I do place the pattern on the liner / board while the pattern is still somewhat wet.. maybe next time I'll let it somewhat dry out more and see if that affects it. I notice that the liner looks like it gets soft looking if that makes sense like maybe the spray glue chemicals is softening or melting the liner some.. which maybe bleeding through the liner and making the liner stick to the wood harder? Anyway, just thought since I've just peeled off the pattern and it came off hard.. reminded me that I've been going to post this observation for a long time.. I just keep forgetting. Okay.. better get back to work..

I purchased one.. hoping that many more purchase one too so they can get to making them out of real parts.. Not looking forward to receiving one from imaginary parts because I won't know what parts goes where during assembly..

The French Cleat seems like a bit of overkill for what I'm looking to do.. remember these are going to be hung up by customers.. many may not understand how that system works.. I would definitely do this if it were very heavy.. When I said these are heavy.. I meant more that they are much heavier than the typical plaque that I normally just use a sawtooth hanger on. I'd guess this thing is less than 5lb. probably closer to 3-4.. I'm thinking about using the coated wire as Deny suggested. I have a boatload of these D hangers both smaller and some pretty large ones. Thanks everyone for your thoughts / suggestions.

What method would you pro's use to hang larger heavier woodwork pieces. I've searched around on Etsy looking at what the others do.. but I've seen everything and nothing, LOL.. This isn't really scroll saw related since I'm talking about hanging larger signs, flags etc. that I route on my CNC. I already have several folks wanting one of these flags shown in the photo.. But this piece is 26 x 13 x 3/4 inches.. Made from Maple.. so it's a lot heavier than the typical scroll saw stuff I make that hangs and I typically used sawtooth hangers on those.. In my searching on Etsy I found sawtooth hangers ( mind you they are making theirs from pine which might be lighter ) or wire.. MOST of the listings I run upon didn't show or tell how to hang it.. Amazing how little some sellers describe their items.. yet get sales.. For my heavier scroll sawn items which is very few of them.. I use the D hook hangers instead of the sawtooth. I always thought they was a little more robust.. Was kind of thinking of these on each end of the sign.. for two hanging points.. but that might be too difficult for some to get to hang straight. Also thought about just having the CNC drill two holes clear through to use a leather or? strap to hang from above. So what's your thoughts..

I thought the dull blade breaking thing was just a Hawk thing.. That's the way my Hawk is.. if the blade gets dull and I feel it needs changed its about the same time it snaps.. The short arm saws, like the DW's Pegas etc.. are a lot more forgiving with dull blades. I don't ever really recall breaking blades on those saws.. But I have made smoke with them when they get too dull to cut.. they try burning the way through.. not a good thing either trust me, LOL

Where is the blade breaking? in the middle or near the top / bottom clamping points? I don't know a lot about Hegners.. but have read that the blade tension is fussy with them.. I know this to be true with the Hawk saws as well.. and thinking has a little to do with the long arm motion of these types of saws. If I have some tension issues I break blades somewhere near the middle of the blade. If I break them near the clamping screws, it's usually the clamp screws need sanded flat etc.

Stack cut 4 from 1/8 bbply using a #3 Pegas MG3 blade. Three backers from 1/4” walnut ply and one from bbply and painted black. Keith Fenton pattern. While cutting these on the scroll saw I also had my CNC carving the flag. Flag carved from soft maple and sprayed with water based polyurethane and then spray painted black, sanded off overspray and top coated again with the poly.

Glad to hear you got it up and running good again.. Yes you should get plenty of new life out of it.

I wonder what they use at the bearing factory when making them, they use solvents during the machining process's.. typically a machining oil.. I guess it is a oil still.. typically what I use to clean out old grease is a light oil such as diesel fuel it's still oil or a light lubricant.. I think the bigger issue with solvents is that they are meant to break down oils and people do not rinse or clean off the solvents.. make sure they are completely dry etc.. Difference in a auto shop industry is it's not cost worthy of using solvents to clean as the time a mechanic spend cleaning with solvents and then scrubbing with dish soap and water to clean off solvents waiting for parts to dry.. they just replace parts as you spend $80 in labor to clean or $40 for parts.. For sure you want all the grease off before adding new grease.. unless you are for sure adding the same grease type.. many grease types if mixed will do more harm than good.. as they'll separate the oil properties and dry out the matrix. Which is the same thing as using solvents that break down the oils.. This is why engine builders wash the cylinders out with soap / water after cleaning the blocks in the solvent tanks.. No reason you cannot use solvents to clean out old grease.. just be sure to also wash off the solvents in a mild dish soap and water.. be sure it is dried out well before adding the new grease.. Blowing them with a air hose helps drying times if you have a compressor