kmmcrafts

I kind of been needing a new miter saw, not that the one I have is bad, I just needed a sliding miter saw for those wide boards I glue up for making signs on my CNC.. Cutting one side and flipping the board over to get the other half has been getting old, LOL. SO I got the DeWalt 12" slider miter saw. Since my current saw is a 10" I also bought a nice Freud 12" blade for it and since I also have my current saw mounted on a regular cheap HF general tool stand ( not even a miter saw stand ) I bought the nice DeWalt rolling stand. I also bought a laser attachment to go on my CNC.. been wanting to try the laser and Nextwave had some refurbished ones on sale so I snagged up one of those.. Then I bought some upgrades for my K-40 laser. I bought a adjustable focal lens, new mirrors and a laser alignment tool. Next up, I need a new table saw.. had it in my cart the last week or so with my miter saw trying to decide if these was the tools I wanted and during that time the table saw sold out.. so I missed out on that one.. better luck next time I guess. Probably a good thing it was sold out as I have no idea where I'm going to put the new tools at. I have my shop crammed full because I have my daughters Jeep in there doing a engine rebuild so I have parts laid out everywhere. Just got the stuff back from the machine shop and my parts order came in today.. hopefully can get it back together and out of the shop next week. Maybe having new tools will motivate me to get the Jeep finished up so I can get it out of my way, been apart now for about 6 weeks.. partly machine shops fault as they was 5 weeks out, LOL couldn't order my parts until I knew how much over / under size they was going to create, LOL I had been watching FB marketplace and CL for quite some time waiting on a deal.. got tired of fooling with overpriced used junk and decided I've waited nearly a year and I guess no good deals in my area so NEW it is. Now I'll have a used one to sell, LOL..

I have the Ridgid one, much like the Titon one shown above.. I use the belt sander attachment more than the spindles.. I think this model is a great one to get since as has been mentioned.. you tend to use the one you least thought you would, LOL.. I got mine used for $50 with a really heavy duty stand etc.. I figured the stand was well worth the money even if the sander didn't work..

Are you talking about a set of thumb screws or the insert kit? Ray sells a kit but it is also with the set screw which would be useless for the Hawk saws. I wonder if you reached out to Ray if he'd sell just those insert tips without the set screws. I guess you have a way to make your own so that is understandable. I wasn't sure if you was taking about buying thumb screws just for this tips or the rebuild kit. https://www.seyco.com/quick-clamp-renewal-kit/

Probably a dumb question but couldn't you use a drill press to drill out the thumb screw and provided you get the correct size hole drilled you could then buy the inserts from Seyco? The seyco ones would be a benefit to me since I have a Excalibur and keep replacements on hand for it.. plus once a thumb screw is drilled correctly you would never really need to have another thumb screw.. just need to replace the swivel ends. Probably a lot easier on a lathe but I don't have one, LOL I'd like to try the swivel ends on the Hawks, too bad they used different threads so I can't just swap the Hawk ones out for the EX ones, LOL..

Thank you! It's what life is about making others happy and helping one another.. whether it's family or someone you've never met.

I recently bought some thumb screws and new set / anvil screws for my blade clamps for my old Hawk from McMaster. When browsing the website I seen they have flat end set screws and also seen they have them that have a swivel end similar to the swivel on the Excalibur/DeWalt. If they had them in the thumb screw I’d have tried them but figured probably useless in the set screw side. Anyway the flat bottom set screw the flat portion has a smaller surface than just a plain set screw. Probably would work well with larger blades but I had trouble with my #3 blades so just a heads up don’t try them if you run upon them as they probably won’t work. Now the thumb screws, every time I order these or get them from a hardware store the center in kind of concaved and they don’t work either unless I screw them into a board and dress the ends flat. If you’re not careful about dressing the ends you can get them on a angle and pretty much deem the new one useless . Which kind of puts you back to where you was and why you got new screws in the first place. I’m wondering if anyone had purchased them outside of the saw manufacturer and how / where do you find them machined with a flat surface to start with. I normally have decent success with drilling a appropriate sized hole in a scrap wood piece and screwing in (straight) the screws and sanding them. But even this sometimes for some reason not always presents me with a true square flat surface. I’m wondering about maybe the board warping or using the same one over time may make the board itself becoming unflattend. I have thought about threading a piece of flat stock steel to use which may be more stable? Anyway just a heads up on those flat set screws. Oh they do have smaller and larger flat end ones and yes I did order the larger ones. Possible they sent the wrong ones? I don’t know. I’m just not going to try them again. They would take a lot of sanding / grinding to get them down to the larger portion of the screw so dressing them wouldn’t work too well.

I know most patterns come in PDF.. really quick and simple to go into inkscape and make a quantity of two per page.. Also if you have a scanner and can scan the image to your computer.. then right click the file you can select print and a pop up opens and you can select to print two that way.. also can resize them to ornament sized and print 4 per page. I rarely waist half of the shipping label.. but it does take a minute on the computer to do this editing.. I typically do it anyway as I like to change the print from black to red anyway. Everyone has a different method in which works for them and none are wrong.. one persons version of convenience is different from another persons. To me no sticky fingers, no clogged nozzles, messy over sprays, and no throwing a 1/8 can of glue away because the cans air died before the can was empty is all convenient.

You do realize you can cut out the actual pattern from the full sheet? You don't need to stick the whole full sheet down to your board. This is what I do and also what I do for normal paper patterns where I use the spray adhesive. I only spray the pattern not the full board, as the spray wasn't very cheap beforehand and now it's more than ever.. If you get 62 units from a can that cost $10 plus the cost of your regular paper.. the prep time to spray each pattern etc.. In my eyes anyway.. a 1000 shipping labels for about $60 just looks much cheaper than all of that hassle without actually doing the math.. and actually doing the math I think it comes out cheaper.. but I maybe wrong. I don't know how much regular printer paper cost off the top of my head. How much does a 1000 sheets of cheapest regular paper cost? How many cans of spray does it take to spray 1000 sheets.. How much quicker is it to just peel and stick your board full of patterns? I find these labels peel really easy.. There are other labels that have cross cuts on the back side so if you cut out the pattern in the center of the sheet there is usually a small cross cut on the back to grab hold to easily "start" peeling off the label from the backer. The ones I now use do not have the cuts on the back but they do peel quite easy if you pick at a edge with your finger nail. These are what I use.. They was $60 last time I bought ( last fall ).. Maybe doing a search can result in cheaper seller.. It takes me about a year to use these up, used to be 2 times a year when I used these for their purpose and printing my labels on them.. Now that I have a regular label maker I don't use the full sheet for labels. https://www.ebay.com/itm/172818314778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I didn't think I've done many birds.. then after going through my pictures.. maybe I did more than I thought, LOL

Hawk and I believe Hegner also has a water tank system for cutting metals etc. where you would need cooling. I don't have any experience with them just noticed them on the accessories page.

If you have certain angles you commonly use you can just make some cuts into a block of scrap wood at the desired angles. I have one I use regularly to check to make sure the table is square and didn't get moved. If it fits on the front and spin it around to the back side of the blade and it fits in the slot the blade is at 90

Using a Hawk Ultra saw you'll likely never get a perfect cut in that thick of wood with the blade in the aggressive cut position.. I've never been able to get nice clean cuts on the aggressive setting. But works very well in the front position. There needs to be a in between position, well the newer saw is variable so you can tune it for the best possible cut for said material.. Look for a G4 or BM series saw for that must have upgrade if you're doing a lot of thick wood cutting.

Here in the northern states that slippery dirt works really well and is recommended on car locks as it helps to keep moisture out and not having it in there results in a frozen lock that also not only locks others out.. it locks the one with the key out until it warms up above freezing. Not sure about the credibility of that lock smith but he obviously has never worked on many car locks in the north. BTW, I've used the graphite in locks for many years.. one lock I have is 40 years old Master lock.. and has been locked / unlocked etc. pretty much twice a day for all those years.. still working very good. I'm not sure why Hawk recommends it for the saw.. I don't use it on the saw because of the mess it can make.. I find just regular oil works best for me.. many folks ( one used to be a regular on here ) never ever oil their Hawk saw.. and are production cutters. They've never worn anything out other than the tension cam every 6-8 years, LOL. So I assume oil or any lube is better than none at all.

I speak with him as well, He's been busy with the events, saying that the selling is going good. He hangs out more on the FB forums.. even though it's not a whole lot there either, just more than here.

For fretwork in thin BB ply the dremel with plunge base works pretty well so long as you're not like me and stack cutting 5 at a time. or cutting thick hardwoods.. in that case the dremel kind of lacks power at low speeds and burns up drill bits at high enough speeds to have enough power, LOL I do use it anyway but plan on going through bits about 1/2 times more than you would with a drill press and the proper speed. I can see where it's very handy for the hard to get to spots on larger projects that the drill press can't get. Changing the bits is a little cumbersome as well as it's not super easy to get to with it mounted into the base. But I managed to use some needle nose pliers to reach back in there to do the job.. better than taking the whole thing apart. Most of you aren't worried about time so that may not be an issue for you. The plunge router base is plastic and after drilling a couple million holes the thing gets pretty sloppy. You may not notice it on thin stock but in thick stock you'll quickly see it's easy to drill angled holes and hard to drill straight holes, then you have a underpowered hand drill, How does the Seyco drill do power wise? That little motor makes me think it's comparable to a Dremel.. I've often thought about buying one but I'd be disappointed if I just bought a overpriced Dremel, LOL

I seen the saw in question on FB marketplace, nice looking saw and doesn't look like a bad deal for the right person. It's not a saw ( in my opinion ) to be doing a lot of fretwork with as the tensioning is at the back of the saw.. Nice saw but just doesn't have the features the newer saws have. Could be a great starter saw for someone looking for a cheaper quality saw.

I have a nice Hitachi miter saw that I've had since around 2006.. But it doesn't slide.. Now that I am CNC routing signs etc.. I'm working with a lot of glue ups that are 10 - 14" wide.. Even flipping the board over doesn't get cut all the way through, LOL so yeah.. the slider one is what I'm after. I use my Hitachi dang near every day so I'd be lost without it. I'm looking at getting the DeWalt dws799 12" miter saw. I think is the model number.. Runs $399 on the Home Depot site which for some reason is cheaper than the refurbished ones on CPO site, LOL So I need to snag one up soon.. prices of everything is on the rise.. buy now and save if you can.. lol

Thanks for your review, That is the one I originally was looking at but it's out of stock both online and in stores within a 100 mile radius so that is why I chose the other one.. Though there may be one on eBay as I haven't shopped much for a drill press in a long time.. Been watching miter saws, LOL

This is one real similar to what you are looking at here at a much lower price. I don't know if this one was made by Hawk or not.. They did make saws for other companies to rebrand. There was also a company that got into some infringement issues with RBI back in the day.. Kind of think this is that company but not 100% sure on that. Think this one is only a 14" saw.. but the price is decent.. so long as RBI parts work on it anyway.. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/288410319396128/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Af36c5399-c7e5-4464-8874-979c6bf13435

The model / serial tag shown in your photo is a pretty old saw.. I believe this is a saw that uses the round lower clamps. I also think it's not a variable speed because otherwise the tag would say 220VS.. They also made a 220-3 which is a three speed.. That said though.. there are some that was variable speed by a belt / pulley system and was marked as a model 220.. either case.. pretty old saw.. late 80's very early 90's ( I think ).. If my assumption is right, $300 would have to be nearly brand new otherwise $200 ish would be my max on it. Oh, and some of these early 220 saws didn't have the blade tension lever at the front of the saw..

My current drill press is a old Delta 8" that I picked up at a garage sale back in 2008 for $2.. It was listed as for parts because it was missing the chuck key, Lucky for me I happen to have a couple extra universal 4 way key. It's had a bad bearing in it for a couple years now, LOL.. It's not worth putting a new bearing in it as the bearing cost more than I paid for the drill press.. The whole thing is pretty worn out, lots of slop in it.. maybe from the bearing. I like it but I do have one complaint.. I raise and lower the table a lot.. and it doesn't have any gear crank type deal to raise or lower the table.. only a pinch clamp thing.. and it's kind of a annoyance to change the table height. It looks just about like this cheapy one from Grizzly https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-8-baby-benchtop-drill-press/g0925 I'd buy this one in a heart beat if it had a gear system to change the table.. I don't need any thing huge or fancy If I need precision holes my CNC router works well for that, LOL 2 x 2 foot work area.. I just don't do a lot of large work.. and the larger projects seem to get turned over to the CNC or Laser to do anyway now. I contemplated buying the cheap WEN drill press.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-10-in-Drill-Press-with-Laser-4210T/308605494Worth the extra $50-60 for the crank to move the table.. LOL It is just a cheap press.. but my $2 press has paid for itself and it also is a cheap press..

I'm curious what type of use they use these radio press's for.. There seems to be quite a few different models.. I've looked at them before and considered purchasing one. What baffles me is while the head is radio unless you build a huge table for it you'll be drilling out in the air as the table looks tiny already.. then ad that the head will extend out several inches. Also in my opinion.. it could be a chore changing set ups on it. Looks like the head also can be adjusted to angle drill.. just seems like a lot of movement in the head which could be handy.. but could also be problematic. The more moving / adjustable parts could equal less precise.. as you can tell, I know very little about these and have never seen one in person to really check out the build and quality. BTW, I still have not bought a drill press and I posted I was looking for a new one two years ago, LOL.. so I'm looking forward to what is said in this topic as well as what you choose to buy. I also haven't took the plunge on the miter saw yet or the table saw either.. Thinking this should be the time to do so before inflation happens to get worst.. LOL

Well since her and her daughter bought it for him as a gift they should have some idea of what they paid for it at least.. which in my mind can be good or bad.. I mean, they may think it should be worth what they paid.. as he didn't get to use them much.. if any.. The Seyco can't have much run time on it, he had health problems and wasn't getting in the shop much.. you know they paid $900 ish.. To me since the saw is basically new but still second hand top dollar and being generous I wouldn't give but maybe $600 - 650 but in their mind they paid over $900.. and might be thinking it's worth $800 -850

I do agree with Dave.. I've never been one to like to "offer" someone a price, especially a "starting price" More times than not I just walk away... I don't mind dickering on a price.. do that all the time.. even in box stores, groceries etc. But to put a price tag on someone else's stuff.. nope not me..

Yeah most Delta numbers start with 40-**** I'm actually not sure any of the older Deltas come with a changeable fuse other than the newer ones that are similar to the DeWalts..