kmmcrafts

I'm really questioning if they meant $1500 as that is the going price of many of these old saws like that.. and just think.. all that money and you have no motor or electronics to go bad on it, LOL

I need a bunch of these so I can start up a gym .. People can pay me a membership plus make inventory for me to sell... https://porthuron.craigslist.org/tls/d/port-huron-antique-fret-scroll-saw-1880s/7342015397.html Seems like a great buy actually.. a lot of these are over $1000 !! I'll upload a photo too just in case the add is gone.

Yes a lot of saws actually do not require and service.. they want you to break it then buy another one.. Some of us will take them apart and put new bearings and grease in them.. A lot of the older saws that use a brass bushing / bearing don't need lubed.. they use a special lube that is mixed in the brass when they make them that is self lubed.. so they don't require anything.. other than every so often they might need another one of those brass bushing / bearings again.. I looked up the model yesterday when I seen your question.. and I am not familiar with that saw..

The one and only WEN tool I have has served me very well for the past 10 years and I've never needed customer service.. so I guess I don't know how the customer service is.. It's a Belt / Disc sander.. I did however after about 5 years have the thing loose power.. I mean barely set a small block of wood on it and the belt would stop or almost stop.. I took it apart thinking the drive belt was bad.. once I got the covers off, the pulley fell off and dang near gave me one of those custom blue toenails, Never did find the set screw but put a new one on and been good since.. The sandpaper ran too close to the edge as well and sanded a tab completely off the belt guard that had the screws to hold the guard on.. so that also fell off one day possibly by user error? LOL.. The auto body shop skills came in handy with having a old Ford Taurus trunk lid laying in my scrap metal recycle bin repaired that buy me cutting a chunk of sheet metal off it and forming a new guard and using the Lincoln Mig welder to weld on some tabs that couldn't get hit by the sandpaper and grinding / sanding away the screws and tabs.. I think it just needed some American engineering to make it a great sander.. which it is now.. as I made it Ford Tough...

Can always take the stopper bolt out and it'll go way up.. just don't hover over it and get a tooth knocked out if a blade breaks, .. Not a big fan of drilling holes in saws, especially new ones.. but you could drill the hole lower and install the stopper bolt so the arms comes up higher if needed.

The new Hawk and the Ultra seem to go up about the same amount... The old 1993 220VS goes way up.. come to think of it.. I'm not sure if it has the bolt in the back that acts as a stop.. maybe that's why it goes up so high.. It's really nice on those really large projects if you feed the blade from the bottom.. Maybe I should keep that saw, LOL..

Having had a RV and currently a 5th wheel TT I totally understand where you're at with this.

Never understood why they make those bellows out of that goofy rubber/plastic stuff.. I see most used saws needing that piece.. I see Hawk list the bellows for their saws for $10.. I've also never ever heard or seen of anyone having to replace one on a Hawk.. They are listed in the parts on their site so I'm sure people buy them.. It's just not very common like on the Hegners.. Hegners are dam good saws.. but I do feel they could improve on a lot of things.. as can Hawk.. Hawk in my mind would be quite a competitor to Hegner if they had good management for the company like Hegner does.. If I owned a Hegner I'd have to buy stocks in Magnifier light bulbs and lenses.. My older Hawk upper arm goes up higher than the other newer Hawks. I've broke two bulbs and cracked a magnifier lens from that arm when a blade broke.. Not sure why Hegner designed that front tension lever to stick up 3-4 inch above the arm, Was always kind of curious if the designers of scroll saws ever used one..

Which one did you buy, LOL Just curious why you say you don't like the Hegner as much?

Yeah, kind of look like toys.. in fact when I seen the one at the estate sale I at first thought it was a kids toy until I went and took a closer look to see it was actually real, LOL

I had the chance to get one of these 14" saws at a estate sale for $60 on a stand about 4 years ago.. I kick myself for passing that deal up.. But at the time I wasn't impressed with such a small saw.. also that the tension lever is at the back of the saw.. Not that you can't reach it on such a small saw.. but every saw I've owned has had all controls at the front of the saw.. Just didn't think I could get used to that and I would have spend $80 on a large paper weight, LOL

SO... Is it a BM series saw or not? Does the lower arm protrude out through the angle adjustment or is the end of the lower arm sit back behind the tables angle adjustment? IF you have a BM series saw there is only one manual for the BM series.. it covers both the 220 and 226.. These started production around 2012 I think.. maybe earlier than that.. I think Bushton took over around 2008 - 10 ish.. ? IF the saw is only 8-10 years then I would say you have a BM series saw.. OR at least the highest serial number 220 Ultra saw manual.. I don't know what the 20" models looked like back when the G4 26" saw came out.. did they make a G4 20" saw? I have not seen one.. Regardless seeing some pictures of the saw would help in deciding what model you have.

Here is a new in box one..https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/312045027375084/?ref=saved&referral_code=null I don't remember if this model has the lower blade holder as the quick set ll one, or the one that takes the special allen wrench thing.. The model I would look for that I know has both top and bottom blade clamps as the Quickset ll is the Delta model SS350.. Those are good saws.. had one for a couple years.. Problem with these old Deltas is that most parts are no longer available..

What type and thickness of material and what spiral are you using? I do find they aren't quite as smooth cutting.. especially the larger numbered ones.. I rarely use anything but a #2/0 in the FD NS ( Flying Dutchman New Spiral) style blade.. Pegas spirals are good blades but to me they're more brittle or something.. they seem to break much easier and the spirals in general seem to break easier anyway. Also if I do use Pegas I jump up a size.. instead of a #2/0 I use a #1. Pegas blades seem to run a bit smaller than the others. I think the Olsen blades seem a bit harder to control and are a bit more aggressive.. A lot also depends on the saw set up.. All the inside cuts on this truck was done with a spiral.. I did move to a regular blade for the profile cut. This is like 5/8 -3/4 inch Pine. Done it with the FD-NS #2/0. After I sold this piece and needed to make another I switched to Poplar and I now cut it with a flat blade then go over the veining with the spiral to widen the kerf.. Much faster cutting it twice like that and looks much better even though I don't feel this looks bad it's not superb either. Almost all my portrait work shown on my web site is done with spirals.. typically always stack cut 3-5 pieces.

That guy doesn't seem to know how to hold the wood down... that isn't the video I seen.. I had to go search for it but this is the one I seen.. she explains and shows blade changes..

You very well may be right, I have no personal experience with them.. only restating what I have read from others about them and also based off watching the video on their site.. I try not to base opinions off what others say unless there is more than a few others stating the same thing..

It may have fallen off.. I think when the new owners took over they quite installing the nice heavy duty stamped I.D. tags and went with stickers.. My BM-26 tag is on top of the platform at the back part of the saw.. I've seen them placed in many locations almost as if they just stick them on where ever is convenient, LOL If it truly is a saw after the new owners took over it'd be a BM-20 or sometimes called a BM-220.. Should have a adjustable blade stroke on the front of the lower arm where you stick a Allen wrench in the end of the lower arm nose and can change the aggressiveness of the cut. If it doesn't have that then it's not a BM series saw..

Its a PS Woods saw.. https://www.pswood.com/scroll-saws/ They are a USA made saw.. built like a tank from what I can see and hear about BUT, I think the blade changes are somewhat cumbersome... Not totally user friendly when comparing it to the other newer saws. I wanted to buy one instead of my new Hawk back 3-4 years ago now.. BUT they had a issue with a design flaw or trying to redesign something to improve it and they were not making saws at the time so they was sold out.. Still Sold Out today.. and still not making them yet... so not sure what's up with that. Honestly glad they was sold out because the more I learn about the saw I think for my needs the Hawk was the better choice for the type work I do.

I don't have issues with the staining once I upgraded the exhaust fan to a more powerful one.. but yeah the transfer tape does help a lot if you don't have a good exhaust fan, it's the actual black edges where the cut is that I don't like the look of.. and I don't think anything will take the smoke smell away other than top coating.. I'm going to try engraving other mediums like ceramic tiles.. maybe they won't smoke / burn and stink.. LOL

My laser engraves a lot better than a scroll saw can.... But the cutting part I don't care for the burnt edges.. Also the parts smell like a campfire unless you drench them in a clear topcoat.. so I much rather "cut" on the scroll saw.. Just with the scroll saw would engrave better..

Yeah, that'd be awesome fun, I'll bring my saw along as it's easy to travel with and doesn't take much space so everyone can try it too.

The BM series Hawks have the same 24mm ( 7/8" ) stroke.. JFYI.. so yes I use more of the blade on the BM26 than i do on the other saws, and maybe why it cuts faster than the older Hawks.. The EX-21 still cuts slightly faster..

Yeah, Most these smaller saws are made by the same company and they're all the saw other than the color and the plastic covers.. I still think you're better off looking for a used old Delta with those quickset clamps. Those clamps are hard to beat.. especially if you're used to them. Makita power tools are pretty decent but when it comes to scroll saws it's just a name on a crappy saw..

This size stroke doesn't make it the best scroll saw.. The best scroll saw is the one that is user friendly and enjoyable to use. Durability of the scroll saw can go down the drain if it's not a pleasure to sit at. Then it becomes a very large paper weight. It's one thing to be a hobbyist that just goes out to saw for maybe 3-4 hours a week vrs one that spends 6-8 hours per day.. I'd rather run a yearly throw away saw and replace it every year than to be miserable running the same un- user friendly saw for the next 100 years.. This is why I say there is no perfect saw for every scroll sawer and why I told you I can find fault in every brand and style saw out there. Because they all aren't made to please everyone.. Some saws please people because it's affordable and they can actually go out and make something and feel proud of it.. their budget only allows a HF saw and they are completely happy with it.. Kind of like buying the biggest heavy duty truck but you only haul a small utility trailer.. 99% of your driving is unloaded.. Your ride is going to be like a lumber wagon.. when you only needed a light duty truck. LOL

I only seen a couple pictures and both was of the same side.. I'm curious how the heck does one reach the lower blade holder?