kmmcrafts

Never understood why they make those bellows out of that goofy rubber/plastic stuff.. I see most used saws needing that piece.. I see Hawk list the bellows for their saws for $10.. I've also never ever heard or seen of anyone having to replace one on a Hawk.. They are listed in the parts on their site so I'm sure people buy them.. It's just not very common like on the Hegners.. Hegners are dam good saws.. but I do feel they could improve on a lot of things.. as can Hawk.. Hawk in my mind would be quite a competitor to Hegner if they had good management for the company like Hegner does.. If I owned a Hegner I'd have to buy stocks in Magnifier light bulbs and lenses.. My older Hawk upper arm goes up higher than the other newer Hawks. I've broke two bulbs and cracked a magnifier lens from that arm when a blade broke.. Not sure why Hegner designed that front tension lever to stick up 3-4 inch above the arm, Was always kind of curious if the designers of scroll saws ever used one..

Which one did you buy, LOL Just curious why you say you don't like the Hegner as much?

Yeah, kind of look like toys.. in fact when I seen the one at the estate sale I at first thought it was a kids toy until I went and took a closer look to see it was actually real, LOL

I had the chance to get one of these 14" saws at a estate sale for $60 on a stand about 4 years ago.. I kick myself for passing that deal up.. But at the time I wasn't impressed with such a small saw.. also that the tension lever is at the back of the saw.. Not that you can't reach it on such a small saw.. but every saw I've owned has had all controls at the front of the saw.. Just didn't think I could get used to that and I would have spend $80 on a large paper weight, LOL

SO... Is it a BM series saw or not? Does the lower arm protrude out through the angle adjustment or is the end of the lower arm sit back behind the tables angle adjustment? IF you have a BM series saw there is only one manual for the BM series.. it covers both the 220 and 226.. These started production around 2012 I think.. maybe earlier than that.. I think Bushton took over around 2008 - 10 ish.. ? IF the saw is only 8-10 years then I would say you have a BM series saw.. OR at least the highest serial number 220 Ultra saw manual.. I don't know what the 20" models looked like back when the G4 26" saw came out.. did they make a G4 20" saw? I have not seen one.. Regardless seeing some pictures of the saw would help in deciding what model you have.

Here is a new in box one..https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/312045027375084/?ref=saved&referral_code=null I don't remember if this model has the lower blade holder as the quick set ll one, or the one that takes the special allen wrench thing.. The model I would look for that I know has both top and bottom blade clamps as the Quickset ll is the Delta model SS350.. Those are good saws.. had one for a couple years.. Problem with these old Deltas is that most parts are no longer available..

What type and thickness of material and what spiral are you using? I do find they aren't quite as smooth cutting.. especially the larger numbered ones.. I rarely use anything but a #2/0 in the FD NS ( Flying Dutchman New Spiral) style blade.. Pegas spirals are good blades but to me they're more brittle or something.. they seem to break much easier and the spirals in general seem to break easier anyway. Also if I do use Pegas I jump up a size.. instead of a #2/0 I use a #1. Pegas blades seem to run a bit smaller than the others. I think the Olsen blades seem a bit harder to control and are a bit more aggressive.. A lot also depends on the saw set up.. All the inside cuts on this truck was done with a spiral.. I did move to a regular blade for the profile cut. This is like 5/8 -3/4 inch Pine. Done it with the FD-NS #2/0. After I sold this piece and needed to make another I switched to Poplar and I now cut it with a flat blade then go over the veining with the spiral to widen the kerf.. Much faster cutting it twice like that and looks much better even though I don't feel this looks bad it's not superb either. Almost all my portrait work shown on my web site is done with spirals.. typically always stack cut 3-5 pieces.

That guy doesn't seem to know how to hold the wood down... that isn't the video I seen.. I had to go search for it but this is the one I seen.. she explains and shows blade changes..

You very well may be right, I have no personal experience with them.. only restating what I have read from others about them and also based off watching the video on their site.. I try not to base opinions off what others say unless there is more than a few others stating the same thing..

It may have fallen off.. I think when the new owners took over they quite installing the nice heavy duty stamped I.D. tags and went with stickers.. My BM-26 tag is on top of the platform at the back part of the saw.. I've seen them placed in many locations almost as if they just stick them on where ever is convenient, LOL If it truly is a saw after the new owners took over it'd be a BM-20 or sometimes called a BM-220.. Should have a adjustable blade stroke on the front of the lower arm where you stick a Allen wrench in the end of the lower arm nose and can change the aggressiveness of the cut. If it doesn't have that then it's not a BM series saw..

Its a PS Woods saw.. https://www.pswood.com/scroll-saws/ They are a USA made saw.. built like a tank from what I can see and hear about BUT, I think the blade changes are somewhat cumbersome... Not totally user friendly when comparing it to the other newer saws. I wanted to buy one instead of my new Hawk back 3-4 years ago now.. BUT they had a issue with a design flaw or trying to redesign something to improve it and they were not making saws at the time so they was sold out.. Still Sold Out today.. and still not making them yet... so not sure what's up with that. Honestly glad they was sold out because the more I learn about the saw I think for my needs the Hawk was the better choice for the type work I do.

I don't have issues with the staining once I upgraded the exhaust fan to a more powerful one.. but yeah the transfer tape does help a lot if you don't have a good exhaust fan, it's the actual black edges where the cut is that I don't like the look of.. and I don't think anything will take the smoke smell away other than top coating.. I'm going to try engraving other mediums like ceramic tiles.. maybe they won't smoke / burn and stink.. LOL

My laser engraves a lot better than a scroll saw can.... But the cutting part I don't care for the burnt edges.. Also the parts smell like a campfire unless you drench them in a clear topcoat.. so I much rather "cut" on the scroll saw.. Just with the scroll saw would engrave better..

Yeah, that'd be awesome fun, I'll bring my saw along as it's easy to travel with and doesn't take much space so everyone can try it too.

The BM series Hawks have the same 24mm ( 7/8" ) stroke.. JFYI.. so yes I use more of the blade on the BM26 than i do on the other saws, and maybe why it cuts faster than the older Hawks.. The EX-21 still cuts slightly faster..

Yeah, Most these smaller saws are made by the same company and they're all the saw other than the color and the plastic covers.. I still think you're better off looking for a used old Delta with those quickset clamps. Those clamps are hard to beat.. especially if you're used to them. Makita power tools are pretty decent but when it comes to scroll saws it's just a name on a crappy saw..

This size stroke doesn't make it the best scroll saw.. The best scroll saw is the one that is user friendly and enjoyable to use. Durability of the scroll saw can go down the drain if it's not a pleasure to sit at. Then it becomes a very large paper weight. It's one thing to be a hobbyist that just goes out to saw for maybe 3-4 hours a week vrs one that spends 6-8 hours per day.. I'd rather run a yearly throw away saw and replace it every year than to be miserable running the same un- user friendly saw for the next 100 years.. This is why I say there is no perfect saw for every scroll sawer and why I told you I can find fault in every brand and style saw out there. Because they all aren't made to please everyone.. Some saws please people because it's affordable and they can actually go out and make something and feel proud of it.. their budget only allows a HF saw and they are completely happy with it.. Kind of like buying the biggest heavy duty truck but you only haul a small utility trailer.. 99% of your driving is unloaded.. Your ride is going to be like a lumber wagon.. when you only needed a light duty truck. LOL

I only seen a couple pictures and both was of the same side.. I'm curious how the heck does one reach the lower blade holder?

I'd put the PolyMax in the same class as the Eclipes.. They are tanks built for industrial use.. Unfortunately they are not supper user friendly for doing lots of inside cuts.. ( tension lever at the back of the saw and slightly cumbersome blade changes ).

You almost described a Hawk. Not sure about a expandable throat.. that would be interesting.. so does the folding table wings.. Many saws are self greasing, LOL ie when it wears out you take it apart and replace parts and grease it, LOL That sounds like DW and EX saws.. Hawk and Hegner you just put drops of oil at the required locations every 10 hours use.. Had saws with the "built in light" and not had great results with them.. even the smoothest saw still shakes the light.. and over time I think this may help blow the bulb prematurely. Blade cartridges sounds like the blade holders for Hegner and Hawk.. I have 20 holders for my Ultra and that is awesome thing to have.. well... until you used up the last good blade and then you spend 20 minutes reloading the blade holders with new blades, LOL.. It's nice to be able to change a blade on the fly to get a project done.. at the end of the day I don't see a lot of advantage to these because someone has to stop at some point and reload those holders.. It is nice if you use several different size and style of blades throughout a single project as I do sometimes.. Like veining.. I have a spiral blade in one holder and the other appropriate sized blades all loaded so I don't have to stop and swap blades out all the time.. I swap blades throughout the project without actually having to change out the blade just change out the preloaded holder.. All of this for less than 1K is wishful thinking.

I tend to agree with you, some of the saws I see on CL and FB are on there for a month or more.. I found a Henger a few weeks ago for $400.. it's now been listed over a month.. I posted it here and several folks said if it works good it's well worth the $400 but ask for a lower price. I know what you mean about the newer faster cutting saws too.. which is why I have kept my Excalibur around.. I like using the Hawk more for thin wood cutting but it's also more relaxing to sit at for me than the EX too. I expect the Hegner will probably cut on the slower side much like the Hawk.. kinda the same design with the longer arms etc.. I will say the new BM26 with the adjustable blade aggression cuts pretty close to the same speed as the EX does but not these older Hawks I have. If I go with a Hegner then I'm selling the 226 hawk Ultra and keeping the BM26 and Excalubur.. If I go with a Jet or Pegas then I'm keeping the BM26 and the 226 ultra and will sell the old Hawk and the Excalibur. LOL I like the three legged stand of the Hegners.. I think it'd fit nicely in the one corner of my shop.. I may put up three saws for sale and whatever sells will help make my decision on what I'll be buying, LOL. I really only need a good saw and a back-up saw.. somehow I ended up with 5 saws.. LOL..

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/d/durham-hawk-g4-26-scroll-saw/7335298672.html Judging by the side table being mounted on the front it "may have" some holes drilled into the stand to put it on like that. I think I know why they may have done that.. ( to keep the sawdust from landing in you're lap.. I think it'd be annoying for me in that spot but whatever, LOL.

I think I might actually do that, simply put.. I don't "need" to sell it.. IF someone is willing to spend that on a old saw then great for me.. I just hope no issues arise with the saw as I want the purchaser be happy with their purchase.. Well.. as far as functionality of the saw. If they don't like it because of their own preference's that's on them.. I just want it to be a trouble free experience for them. I've run enough hours to know it's trouble free for me at least. They bring $300 - 500 ish for the same vintage and even older single speed ones in my area.. Just not what I'd be paying myself.. and knowing I only have $200 ish in this one and got 3 years or so on heavy use from it, it doesn't owe me anything. I'd be very happy with $300 from it.. at $200 I'd probably just keep it.. and think hard about it at $250.. I mainly posted this to see if others thought my expectation of around $300 for the older saw with the known motor issues from these older motors was too high of a price expectation.. I think I'll probably start the price at either $400 or 450 and that gives room for those that like to make offers.. My idea is to sell two saws and buy another, LOL.. I'm looking at trying either a Hegner, Jet, or Pegas.. I don't "need" to.. I just want to, LOL I like tools.. If I can't sell the saws at my expected price then I still have my same old quality saws and won't try those others.. but if I can then I'll experiment with a different brand.

I don't wear glasses in the shop at all.. really only wear them if I drive.. and mostly only at night time driving.. I've had them for about 5 years now but only remembered to actually wear them a dozen or so times.. Should just put them on eBay, because every time I put them on and look at my scrollsaw work it looks like crap.. my work looks a lot better without them.

I have noise cancelling Worktunes head phones where I can play music though the headphones while protecting your hearing.. https://www.amazon.com/3M-WorkTunes-Protector-Bluetooth-Technology/dp/B0723CYHPZ However they compress against your head and if you wear glasses they compress hard enough to give a headache after just a few hours.. I spend 6-8 hours daily in the shop so i can't do that either.. LOL.. They little seyco dust collection system is fairly quiet so long as you keep the filter cleaned out etc.. and those high end vacs are also much quieter.. That's the route I eventually want to go.