kmmcrafts

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.. I may try it with just the 1/8 BB ply I have and see how it goes.. Honestly it doesn't need to be wood I suppose since I planned on painting it. I'm just not sure what's out there that's reasonably priced.. Edit to add: I made these ornaments on my laser... and would likely cut the backer on the laser too. The original design was for a large wall hanging but I resized these to be about 4- 3/4 tall.. The design also had a slightly larger backer.. I didn't intend to make the backers but the detail is so small that they're hard to see good without a contrasting color on the back.. So that is why I was wanting the thin ply to use as a backer and paint it.. I may scrap the whole idea and just make them the wall hangings that they was designed to be.. I just like to "try" to make things different than the original design.. I purchased a bundle pack of these themed crosses ( about 75 different designs ) that was designed for laser / cnc.. and just playing.. I think most of these could be scroll sawn as well.. I know they could with slight modifications.. Not sure they could be this small sized though..

I'm sure I've seen mention of real thin plywood... looking online at some of the wood suppliers etc.. the thinnest ply I've seen is 1/8" Anyone know a source for thin ply.. I had 1/16 or similar in mind.. but anything less than 1/8 could be considered. I have some ornament designs that I've thought about making backer for that could be painted.. While 1/8 would work I think it would also make the ornament kind of bulky and heavier.. while I have made ornaments from 1/4 and it worked well.. I just thought if there was a thin ply that could be used to cut the ornament and then use the 1/8" as a backer would make a nice slim ornament.

Walmart isn't messing around... this stuff is good.. If it wasn't in this box I wouldn't know it was there..

We have the suppliers list right here on the village.. It's under the resources tab. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/suppliers/

May have been me that suggested it but I don't believe in masking the problem without trying to level the stand out to the floor and tuning the saw etc. first.. It really amazes me how out of level a good looking concrete floor can be even if it's a nice "looking level" floor you might think you have.. as I said.. If my Hawk gets bumped slightly it's throw everything out of wack and you might think it's a bad bearing or something but then kinda kick outward on the stand legs and it settles right back in.. runs smooth again. Rolf mentions this quite often too.. again.. the parallel link arm saws are not nearly as picky as these Hawks and I assume Hegners are about being on a level surface. But if you put a stand together in one shop and then move to another.. it may need to have the stand loosened up and have it settled into the new spot..

I think they may have shut down.. I don't know for sure but I noticed the site has been down for quite some time now.. You can get your blades from @Denny Knappen he has great customer service and quick on getting orders out in the mail etc. He is a member here on the Village too. Last couple times I needed blades I ordered from Hawk as I was getting parts anyway but I normally go through Denny.. Switched from DnD to Denny a couple years ago.. because he was here in the forums regularly and I like to support the small business's Edit to add link: https://www.artcraftersonline.com/

Is it not good smooth level concrete? I don't have the issues on concrete but I will say.. when I went to look at the first hawk I bought the guy had a wood floor and had bolted a sheet on 3/4 - 1" plywood on the bottom of the saw.. that thing was horrible with vibration.. Unbolting the plywood and loosen up the stand in my shop where i planned to park it.. let everything kind of level itself out and then retightening the stand made the saw as smooth as a sewing machine.. IF for some reason the saw gets bumped and knocked out of that spot.. It'll pick up some minimal vibration.. and I have a brand new concrete slab in my new shop that is pretty level.. doesn't take much of a change to make a saw pick up some vibration / noise.. Those parallel link arm saws run really smooth but will make noises like this when they get moved out of their spot.. You mentioned the saw had been in storage, I don't know if you moved the saw or not.. I think loosening up the stand bolts and wiggle the saw around a bit so it'll settle into the parked spot and then tighten up the bolts might do the needed trick.. On my Hawks.. I bought the little rubber feet that can bolt to the legs and can be adjusted by the two nuts on the stud and can basically level my saw to its spot where ever in the shop I want it to be.. My new shop isn't nearly as picky about it as my old shop is.. as the new shop had the concrete work done by the pro's and the old shop I did it myself..

When I was using the sprays all the time I tried a can of this and it was actually one of my favorite ones.. I just always had a harder time finding this in my area..

Yeah, I don't need one either, just thought I'd share if anyone was thinking of buying a new one soon.. This is the cheapest you'll get until they get the price changed anyway.. IF I buy a new saw it'll be another Hawk..

Welcome to the village!! Look forward to seeing some of your projects.

Don't buy from this site, You'll spend your money and get no pattern. The owner of this site was a older gentleman that I used to deal with a lot.. his wife and him went to a assisted living home and the website sets here in limbo with nobody running it.. So it'll take your payment but not ever get your pattern.. as nobody on the working end of this website to mail out your pattern to you.

Pegas recently raised the prices and most of the places that offer them is now $940 ish .. I was just looking at some CNC stuff on woodcraft website and thought I'd look at the scroll saws they offer.. Didn't know they sold Pegas saws.. They have not raised the price yet.. $820.. It says they are out of stock but should ship in mid Oct. I put it in my shopping cart to see if they'd change the price or even let me buy since they're back ordered.. I was surprised to see that for me.. shipping is only like $38 + a $10 freight charge Edit to add the link. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/pegas-21-scroll-saw-machine-pegas

You're in a great area to be able to do that.. Most my woodworking stuff was used OR refurbished.. I wanted a BM series Hawk for a long time.. waited 3 years for a used one to show up.. didn't happen and I was in a position to need to make some money disappear or pay higher taxes so I bought new.. The CNC, BM series Hawk, and Grizzly Bandsaw are the only new things I've bought.. Rest was used and refurb. Looking on craigslist and FB for your area though.. I could have bought more than the entire shop + if I lived in your area.. But I'll keep my cost of living in my area and the country any day over a city type living. You can have all the good deals, I'll suffer having to buy what I want new if needed, LOL Come think of it.. the two other Hawks, EX-21, drill press, chop saw, jointer, and planer all add up to about the same price I paid for the one Hawk, LOL

Okay, after watching this a few more times and realizing that adding weight to the table makes me have to ask.. Is the stands legs planted firmly on the floor? Also is it backed up against a wall or touching any other tools or bench etc. ? That play is a little on the excessive side but they all have "some" play in those link ends as there are around 20 pivot points and bearings.. to more you have the more just a smidgen of wear on each one will translate to a fair amount way out at the end of the arms where the blade is.. I just rebuilt my saw and it has not quite as much slop as yours has but still a fair amount.. You don't get that kind of slop with a saw that only has two pivot points for wear to set in until they are really worn.. Since it stops when adding some pressure / weight to the table tells me your stand isn't planted to the floor real good. You may try to run it and sort of hit / kick / bump whatever you want to call it at the stands legs hard enough to slightly move the saw.. It may find a resting spot and stop doing this. IF this is new sound since adding the Pegas chucks you may have bumped the stand while working on it just enough to slightly move it out of level.. I almost always do that when trying to work on my saw.. If it were a bad bearing it probably wouldn't matter if you put weight on it or not.. the sound would still be there.. might change tone but would still be there..

Sorry to hear you've had to change it up.. Maybe God showing you it's time for new products. I can't wait to see what it is you've come up with to make now..

Yeah, that's what my saw was doing.. and it was the bearings in the back of the saw by the motor.. By the looks of the table it has had a lot of use.. If it's never been apart and had grease added or new bearings installed then I'd almost bet that is the issue.. If it's not the issue right now, I'm thinking it's coming sooner than later. Ray sells the whole assembly with bearings already pressed in and it's not too hard of a job to do really. I did it a year ago and posted a lot of photos.. Parts was like $120 that made my saw brand new again..

That's really nice, I like it.. Well done as always..

Yeah the local place where I buy it is.. or was.. $12.95 for 1/8 x 5' x 5' But I've heard it was up to around $15 ish now.. I have them cut them in 1/3rds ( 20" wide ).. They'll cut free so long as it's under 5 minutes work. I buy 10 sheets at a time usually and they can cut 5 sheets at a time on their panel saw, so they don't charge me.. I do get a few of the football patches on some of them but usually not a issue to work around them and use as backers or ?

Cherokee wood products haven't raised the prices so far and seems like the best deal around that I have seen for mail ordering. I bought 48 sheets of 12 x 12 last year when we was on lock down.. I check checked my records and the price is still the same today. They sold me VERY good quality pieces. The 12 x 12 is a common size for the laser cutting guys to buy.. and this is specifically sorted out to be flat, smooth, and high quality.. Was better stuff than I get locally as the local stuff can have a few of those football patches in them.. I don't recall now but I don't think there was a single piece of those 48 pcs that was bad on any side. It's a lot more money than I "normally pay" locally for the 60 x 60 piece but nice stuff and nice not having to chop it all down to size.. I'm thinking about ordering more of it for the convenience... even though I have nearly 20 full sheets setting here now.. LOL About ready to sell the table saw and buy it all pre-cut to size.. since that's the only thing I use my table saw for, LOL

The Helical head planers use less power ( Those who run the country should give tax credits for buying these as they are more energy efficient LOL ) run ALOT quieter, create a very nice surface with less chip out and snipe. Both my wife and my youngest son work here from home and I get complaints from noise from them when running my planer. LOL So the additional cost is worth it to me personally since they both help me pay bills LOL, I understand it's not for everyone. I personally use a planer about 3 times a week.. Usually only long enough to run one board through to get it down to around 5/8 - 3/4 from a 7/8 board.. Using the logic that for a hobby worker you don't need the top of the line machine kinda backwards when you have a Hegner when a old Delta would do the same thing though ain't it? Just messing with you, everyone has their high end tool and their cheap tool priorities at a different level from one another.. but your statement above made me snicker a bit.

Just make yourself a 1/4 by gluing the two 1/8 together I don't like the new USofA.. can we go back to the older version? LOL

I sometimes get snipe with my cheap Ryobi.. If I do get it it's not "bad" to the point I have to chop it off and throw the ends out. I usually sand my work down to 320 grit before cutting anyway so the sanding that I do normally takes care of any of the minimal snipe I get. My manual says not to run anything shorter than 14".. so I've never really tried anything shorter than that, LOL. I'll probably end up buying the DW planer when my Ryobi bites the dust. Could be soon too, last couple times I've used it it has like bogged down and fluctuated the speed while running ( without a board being fed in it ). I'm going to pull the motor brushes and check them out... I'd like a excuse to get a new one.. but I'm cursed with knowing how to repair things and I'm not a person to sell things or throw things out that are repairable, LOL.. Biggest thing I hate with selling in person is the people drive me nuts saying their coming at X time and then no show.. I hate that for some reason.. the tire kickers.. I used to love wheeling and dealing but over the years I'm not sure if people do not give respect in saying they're going to be late or not coming etc..

Still cost more though I believe to the end consumer anyway.. as they raise the shipping cost from $150 to $200.. ( I had heard... not confirmed ) probably because of shippers raising prices as they have skyrocketed shipping cost in the last couple years.

They are great saws, and with all these other saws keep raising their prices it's making a Hawk look more desirable.. that is until Hawk raises their prices.. Funny but, back in the 90's they was $1000 for a 20" saw.. they've improved it greatly since then and only have increased the price by $200 in 30 years.

You could always get a cabin in the middle of nowhere.. instead of being in the crowded city.. I live in the middle of nowhere somewhat.. when it's too quiet I can take a ride into the city and have enough of that after about 1 hour or less, and I'm more than ready to go back home, LOL