kmmcrafts

I don't know how close to Michigan you are but I have a older RBI Hawk 220VS I'd let go at a reasonable price. I'd also consider selling my Excalibur EX-21.. it is the China made one but I rebuilt it last year with the original EX parts from Ray at Seyco.com.. and it has the Pegas blade holders on it. The Hawk I got to have $250 firm on price for. It has about 100 hours run time since I went through it and did many upgrades to it.. The Excalibur I have $300 in new parts last year and has about 160 hours on it since going through that saw.. I'd have to have $350 for it with stand or $300 without. Also has the Seyco dust collection set up on it that won't go with it unless you willing to go $425 for everything. I also have a Hawk 226VS with a lot of extras.. Not really wanting to sell this one BUT.. would let it go for $600 I'm not in any means needing to sell these saws and have been back and forth on even selling any of them.. Only reason I'd sell the older hawk is.. I have my eye on a Hegner that I'd like to get and try.. Never had a Hegner and just wanted to try one.. and since I have 3 Hawks and a Excalibur I really don't need another saw, LOL If I was to sell both a Hawk and the EX then I'd order a new Pegas.. another saw I'd like to get someday.. Heck maybe you're interested in the Hegner I've had my eye on.. Here is a link.. https://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/d/williamston-hegner-multimax-18-scroll/7393302219.html This guy has had this on Craiglist on and off for about 5 months.. started out at around $600 and now he's down to $275.. I'm thinking $200 cash offer since it's been listed now for about a month at $275.. I don't need it so go get it if you want it.. I find deals now and then so it's not the last Hegner on earth.. If you're close to Michigan.. there you are.. 4 different " quality " saws to choose from.. I know nothing about that Hegner.. have not seen it in person or even talked with the guy on it yet.. so it may need work.. I can say my saws all work and pretty much been gone through and worn parts replace greased up and ready to make sawdust..

Congrats on getting the new saw.. Did you buy that stool from them too? It looks like it matches the color of the saw.

I'm not sure what caused his passing, He was 81 years old and posted on here about having trouble getting up / down his stairs to his basement shop. He had a Hawk and a EX but wanted a saw to keep upstairs and if I remember correctly he bought a new Jet back in July or August I think. The obituary is the only info I have since I didn't really know him personally, https://www.thefordfuneralhome.com/obituaries/Benny-Soave?obId=23057721

Yes sadly another scroll sawer passed away.. I don't know the details, I just noticed a couple weeks ago or so thinking he hadn't been on here for a while, at that time I checked and he had just logged on Oct. 16th.. which was only a few days so figured he was busy. Well tonight I checked again and he hadn't logged on since the 16th. He bought a few clock inserts from me back in August to make his kids some clocks for Christmas. Looked up his real name from my order and googled his name, and there was a obituary showing he had passed.

Oh no that is sad news, condolences to his wife and family. I always liked reading his post as he wrote in a redneck / country boy kinda way. Have missed him the last couple years he as hadn't posted much, but believe he went back to work as a OTR truck driver. It's sad that this Covid has taken so many lives, Also saddening is many folks don't just don't take it seriously..

I didn't mention anything about camera, But since you are just wanting to put photos online I wouldn't suggest anything better than a phone or cheap digital camera.. Especially trying to upload photos online many sites will automatically lessen the photo quality OR require you to downsize the photo anyway.. I spent over a grand on a DSLR camera and lenses etc.. My cheap iPhone 6S does better quality for "online" use than that nice camera does.. Between the cell phone and the cheap Sony Cybershot 7.2 Mega Pixel from 2005 era camera I have I get best results from my phone.. but that said I usually use the old Sony because it's easier for me to do them uploaded from my computer than my phone.. for me anyway.. LOL Edit to add: Not sure what you're looking for in photo quality etc.. but the selling venues I sell on want "white" backgrounds without a bunch of props etc.. In fact Amazon will not upload photos unless they are a certain size and a complete white background.. NO watermarks etc.. Etsy only suggest white background and no to little props.. Pretty hard to please Amazons photo requirements with a natural photo without editing the photo to get the pure white that they want.. SO I use a online program fotofuse.com to get the results I need. You might try editing your current photos.. you may not even need to build a lightbox and put a bunch of effort into photos.. The program is very easy to use so long as you start with a somewhat white background..

All of my pictures are done in a light box that I have set up in the loft of my shop. I originally bought a medium sized fold up deal with tripod lights.. was made of cloth material and had a spring wire frame. The kit came with several colored backdrops that Velcro in place. Was an "okay" set up.. I didn't like the cloth because it'd get wrinkles in it and make shadows etc. Fast forward a few years. I got real high end set up and would never go back to a high price purchased item again.. So what I have now is simply a cardboard box that was free at the local Michaels store. I cut out windows in the sides of the box and taped in white tissue paper ( stuff people use to cover / wrap a gift in a gift bag ).. For the backdrop I bought a poster board and taped it to the back top side of the box and let it drape down naturally. I then used the lights from the purchased kit I had.. Not all poster board is created equal but all of them will work. I found I like the little more pricey one that is made more of plastic or? because you can wipe it down if it gets a dirt smudges on it.. Any spec of dust / dirt on a white and taking high resolution photos shows up bad so being in my loft sometimes gets some dust etc. Wiping it on a white paper can smear mark it.. The cheaper poster board is harder to clean than the better one is my point.. I made this as a temporary photo box about 8 years ago.. my intention was to build a wood framed one that's larger and more durable.. But as you can see I never did that.. maybe never will because a free box is way cheaper than even scrap wood to build one, LOL.. I do want a larger one for the larger items ( signs ) that I'll be doing on my CNC.. But this smaller one works perfect for most my scrolled stuff.

You must have one of the high end dremels.. mine's just a cheapy and it won't even spin without a load on the first couple speed settings,

Glad to hear you got it back up and working correctly.. Now it's time to saw something and post a picture of what you made..

So, since this is about blades and drill hole sizes.. I'll put in my two penny's worth, LOL I buy only a 56, 58, and 60 drill bits.. here is something I've learned about the hole size and the blade.. I mostly use Pegas MFG blades and mostly size #3 and #5.. same with FD-UR blades.. The Pegas blades require a bit larger hole.. apparently the blade ends are a bit larger than the blade teeth area? Anyway if I'm doing fine veining detail.. I do not use a Pegas blade because I have to start with a bigger hole and the kerf is small.. I do use a Pegas IF I'm going to be going back over the cut with a spiral blade to widen the kerf.. but if I'm not going to be widening the kerf then the FD-UR blade has a wider kerf to closer match the hole drilled.. I can't remember for sure now what size bit is recommended for the #3 Pegas.. but that drill bit hole won't fit for a #5 Pegas but will fit a #5 FD-UR.. which has a wider kerf than the Pegas #3.. Hope I made sense to you all on this.. This is why I keep and use several brands of blades.. Pegas is my main cutting go to blade.. however in cases like this.. I do use FD or Olsen blades for certain things.. to get better results in the details of the project.

That's great to hear Scott, I hope you outsell your best year. My sales are down 4% from last year but my revenue is up 10% Might be something to do with raising most of my prices.. But could also be because last year a lot of the whole world was on lockdowns and lots of online shoppers, and this year more people getting back out to the stores etc.. I'm actually surprised I'm only down 4% to be honest. Last year was way up like 30% more than the previous year so I was expecting a huge drop this year after things opened back up. But there is still over 1.5 months left for me to do better or worst, LOL

I don't think with the new King you have you'd need any cushion.. I had a Dremel 1800 saw years ago and that had some vibration right at the speeds I liked cutting at.. there were sweet spots ( a few of them ) but none the speed I wanted, and it was bolted to a nice metal ( factory dremel ) stand. I ended up using a piece of scrap carpet padding that I had left from replacing some carpet.. I put it between the saw and the stand and bolted it back down.. I ran the saw at the speeds I like and kept tightening the bolts rotating to each bolt a 1/2 turn or so at a time and I was able to make that saw run smooth mostly all the way through the speed dial.. there was one spot that still had a bit more vibration but it was still not to the point I couldn't cut at that speed.. I'd say bolt it directly to the stand.. If you have a issue.. maybe some padding could help.. but I don't think with these style saws you'll have any issue.

No, I stacked 3 layers of 1/4"

I've cut a lot of ornaments from Hickory and I always thought it cut fairly well.. When everyone talked about how hard it is to cut and I bought some to try several years ago.. I had to ask around to be sure it was actually hickory.. I thought it cut no different than any other hardwood.. Want a challenge try it with some of those exotic woods.. I've cut some projects from purple heart and also zebra wood.. I thought at the time those had to be the worst to cut until I bought some Bubinga, LOL.. This all said.. all of these the first time round cutting it I thought it was tough.. then when using up some scraps didn't seem so bad so I think sometimes maybe it makes a difference on the moisture content of the wood.. it seemed to cut better after it sat in the shop for a year, LOL Gotta plan way ahead if I'm cutting that stuff,

Yes it can be top coated with poly.. I do that from time to time on certain projects.. Just make sure you give it plenty of drying time especially being you're working with Oak.. I think the Danish oil says on the can to wait 48 hours? ( I can't remember ) I usually to to wait a week for oak.. OR.. instead of dipping the wood into the pan of oil I'll more less wipe it on so the grain will pop.. but not soak it since I'm planning to top coat. oak likes to really soak up that oil into the open grain and seep it out for several days after.. Might not bother like that for you in your warmer temps.. I don't usually have that issue in the warmer dryer air.. but in these cooler temps it gives me a hard time.

Nice work and excellent set up / display.. I also have way too much to display everything at a show.. though now that I'm online only and have well over 500 different offerings.. customers seem to think I don't have enough and always asking for something I don't have... LOL Just today a customer said.. "You only have 8 of these.. any chance you'll be getting more? I'd like to order 36 of them to give to my students LOL " Never fails.. If I stock 50 of them.. they'd either not be enough or not sell a signal one.. can't win..

They are most likely Olsen blades.. I had several packages of blades with my Ultra too when I unboxed it.. They were Olsen reverse tooth blades. They was the most common blades back in the mid 90's I think. Bushton sells FD, Pegas, Pikes, and Olsen now I think.. so you have something to choose from.

+1 for Artcraftersonline.. IF you're looking for one place to buy both brands you can go through Bearwood, Lesley's Patterns, Bushton Manufacturing ( RBI Hawk ). There is another place I have ordered from but can't think of it now.. I have ordered from all the places I mentioned above with good results other than Lesley's Patetrns.. they gave good service but they are sometimes slow at getting them out in the mail.. order well ahead of time if you go through them..

When you get used to cutting fast ( thin materials ) and then you start cutting thick hard woods etc.. it's like watching paint dry. I think this is why some folks get the impression that I'm all about cutting fast because I'm doing this for a living to make money and time is money.. which is true time is money.. but liking to cut fast has nothing to do with trying to be in a hurry to make that extra $$.. I charge based on my time and don't worry about what others charge. I just like cutting fast as that is how I learned to cut..

Wonderful work as always Brenda! I also learned scroll sawing on 1/8 and 1/4 material without stack cutting. If you're pretty proficient at it ( looks like you are when I see your projects ) you probably will have the opposite of what everyone else has.. Most think the thin stock cuts way too fast for them and they' cannot control the blade.. If you stack cut you might find ( like I did ) that each layer you add to the stack slows your cut down. When you cut thick stock it goes way to slow for you and many times you start "pushing " too hard and bowing the blade..

Sorry your lookers wasn't buyers... I honestly think they are worth well over the $40 price.. but how to convince a potential customer to see that value is something different.. They are beautiful and well crafted. A couple things come to mind, Maybe the show just didn't have the right crowd to see the value in them.. In some weird way.. sometimes the potential customer sees a cheap price which in turn makes them feel as if there is no value in it.. even though they love it.. the price is too cheap so they don't want it.. I have some family and friends that value everything by the price they paid for something.. ( ie have a relative that will buy $600 sun glasses and then almost forget them ( I believe on purpose ) just so he can say loudly in the restaurant oh dang I almost left my $600 glasses on the table or stupid things like "I'm not walking through this sand in my $800 sandals.. ) Sometimes you have to play games with customers.. ie mark them at $80 but you're running a 50% off sale.. that is if you're happy to get the $40 for them. That large of a % off though may make the customer think that you can't sell them so you're desperate to move them.. maybe 20 - 30% is a better option I was just making an example..

Got to be very careful what you put into a laser cutter.. toxic fumes are a dangerous thing.. yes you vent it outside but don't always get 100% of it.. also have to be considerant of neighbors if they're close.. I know folks suggest cutting / carving foam with the CNC because it's easier on the carving bits for newbies.. If you don't get the feed and router / spindle speeds set right you can ruin a $50 - 100 bit in like 2 seconds.. learning these machines if you're brand-new to them can be pricey too.. Don't ask how I know, LOL

I had to google it... then I was like oh yeah I know what those are, LOL Used ones are going for $40-60.. https://www.google.com/search?q=Longaberger+basket&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS778US778&sxsrf=AOaemvJ74a2nKnHfKYgFX648FZdmuDzybQ:1636244340046&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwids52V_YT0AhVYGs0KHYRDCDUQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1745&bih=852&dpr=1.1

The edges are burnt, but kinda hard to see in these photos with the black background. Most laser cut stuff you see from others has a yellowish stain around the edges too.. That's somewhat because of needing a better air assist blower and also sometimes not having the right temp / speed setting.. but that said sometimes it's not avoidable too.. For me.. I engrave pretty deep.. and then sand the ornaments face and back to get rid of the stained edges that they get on the face and back. Most all laser stuff on etsy looks as though they do not sand it and just leave it however it is straight out of the machine. Something I don't really like is the campfire smell.. so instead of my normal quick dip in Danish oil, I end up spraying a top coat on to seal and mask the smell.. Danish oil doesn't quite get it like the top coat finishes do. I like the quick drying water based poly best as it doesn't have strong fumes when spraying it inside the shop and dries really quick.

Actually both, I've seen 4 scrolls saws and just one of the bandsaws used on the sale sites..