kmmcrafts

Yeah I forgot to mention that one.. I always loc-tite the set screws with "Blue" colored loc-tite.. The other colors you may never get them out to change them. LOL

What do you all do to maintain your blade chucks?? I've been using my Excalibur since around November and the last week or so I've noticed the lever to apply tension to the blade seems stiffer to move and sometimes has a slight squeak. I've read somewhere there really is no maintenance really required for them? Anyway it got me to thinking.. there are moving parts to these and honestly it's going to wear out something at some point. Now I do know there is replacement parts such as the spring and the pin / shaft etc.. What did I do? I have this can of dry lube that is recommended for my CNC and Laser to lube the slides roller wheels etc. that move the router / laser head etc. It's actually just garage door track lube. I have used this stuff for a lot of different applications from my lawn equipment too? it's awesome stuff. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blaster-11-oz-Lubricant/50320173?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-hdw-_-ggl-_-LIA_HDW_214_Auto-Batteries-_-50320173-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQiAosmPBhCPARIsAHOen-PjE2fCIKrbgsnie_HMvpKzhNSX2KdJa0qyKgLaHdys7O17WIAIti8aAl3tEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Anyway.. I was as careful as I could be and had towel in hand to catch any of the drips from getting onto my thumb screws etc. as that would make blades slip for sure probably. I sprayed just a drop or so onto the upper parts of the lever and moving parts to that upper clamp.. All I can say is WOW!! that thing works so smooth and easy now.. I would guess that doing this would certainly prolong the life of the wear parts for sure.. I was a little worried since it works so easy and smooth that it might make the lever pop up and loose tension of the blade because it feels like so easy that it would but so far not a problem.. Other maintenance I do periodically is to remove the thumb screw and clean up the threads and a drop of oil on them because over time the dust works its way into the threads and it gets gritty feel to them when tightening the blade down etc.. Also pull the little pin out and clean it and the little O-ring and re-apply some lube to the O-ring. I use a very small dab of Vaseline on the O-ring and re-insert it into the end of the thumb screw and spin it a few times to work it around so it works nice and smooth. Years ago when I first got my dewalt saw people talked about making sure to purchase a extra set of blade chucks.. because they always strip out etc.. so I did that.. but in maintaining them the way I do I never did have to use the spares.. I think sometimes people look over the small stuff when doing any maintaining of their tools.. Anyway, just thought I'd share my experience with the squeaky blade chuck.. maybe lubing it with some dry lube of some sort will prolong the life of the wear parts.

Did you calculate your time figuring all this out, I guess I take the easy way out by just adding an hour meter to my saw so that it turns on / off with the saw.. LOL You'll find that with fretwork type of work that hour meter is actually going to be a very small portion of your "real time" ..

Probably Wayne said it best.. that is why I made a educated guess on my times as I never really paid attention to actual times.. ( I might be surprised at how wrong I may be LOL). BUT I will go back to my thought process that keeping track of "actual cut time" rather than how many holes or how many projects etc.. would be a way more accurate test... Speaking of different wood types.. also consider that the same type of wood can have different density and moisture content.. probably most accurate test would also be done with BBply as in my opinion it is probably the most consistent in density etc. than any other wood I've cut.

Looks like a Sakura or P.S. Wood machines saw.. I think in either case they run the same parts and can be purchased from P.S. Wood...

I'm not even sure how to touch this topic because of so many variables so I may have to reply several times when more thoughts come to mind, LOL First and for most, I probably could give my most accurate reply of most others because I install hour meters on my saws.. Not to keep track of time for a per project like many think I would for pricing my work as the saw "run time" is completely different than actual time to do a project. This is why I always laugh to myself when someone post they run their saw 40 hours a week by themselves. I spend about 40 a week in the shop but only put about 8 - 15 hours a week on the saw in a good week.. many weeks probably not even that much time. Anyway, back to the topic, one variable is saw set up.. I can cut nearly 30+ or - minutes ( saw run time ) on my Excalibur running saw full speed on one blade cutting most hardwoods I think.. you can cut that time nearly in half for stack cut plywood, the glues in ply really shorten blade life a lot. But go over to my Hawk BM-26 or 226 Ultra and you can also cut blade life quite a lot.. I think those long arms swinging that blade puts a lot more stress on the blade than those short rocker arm saws.. as my DeWalt blade life is basically same as the Excalibur. To be quite honest I've never really timed how long I can cut on a blade from either saws.. I have the timer more for saw maintenance than anything but I have learned an awful lot by having that hour meter on my saws.. Anyway, I gotta get back out to work.. but I think the most accurate way to record blade life is going to be from a set up like I have.. hour meter that comes on with the saw switch and off with the saw switch.. I'd be happy to record some findings if it would interest others.. I mostly use Pegas MFG #3 and 5 and cut mostly Poplar, Cherry, and BBply.. Mostly always cutting 1/2 - 3/4 material by stacking or ?

Go ahead and make use of it, I shared this on the puzzle group on FB. I think you have the ability to make your own pattern but this may help someone else. I kept getting asked for the patterns but not giving the puzzle / dog portion as I didn't design it so I make this where they can print both and tape the papers together to make their pattern. puzzle base clock.pdf clock Puzzle Base.pdf

Save them and when you get famous for one of your scroll sawn art pieces the value of that wire might be outstandingly crazy.. don't forget to save the blades from that famous piece you made too.. they'll also be worth a lot.

Buying the whole assembly makes it much quicker since you don't have to fool with pressing bearings etc.. I kind of think the instructions were the hardest part of the job and probably would have been easier to just wing it without them, LOL They make it more confusing that good, Glad to hear you got through it alright, and should be good to go for several years now..

Kind of depends on the size.. for the most part I drill.. and I typically cut a batch of clocks at a time so I'm not setting up the drill press all the time. I need to get a dedicated drill press for the forestner bit I mostly use since I do so many clocks. IF I'm making the large clocks that take the 3" forestner bit.. then I pretty much just cut that out. I either bought a cheap bit or it's just that slow with the big bit like that I don't know. I will say there is a huge better experience in using a quality bit.. not the cheap sets of bits you get at the box stores.. I've not found a good sharp bit outta those sets yet and trust me, I've tried several different brands.. Pay the big bucks for the single bits is way cheaper in the long run. I had a bit that was getting real dull and needed to send it out for sharpening ( I sharpen once or twice myself but you can easily get it way off wack with them and it only $5 to send it out to be sharpen ) so I bought a set ( my first full set ) and the new one in the set was duller than my old one that needed sharpened, LOL The brands Amana and Freud will be your best friends.. not cheap friends but ones that work hard.. I don't even recommend buying those cheap sets just to use one time, LOL

If you're talking about the blade being off center from the hole in the table, you can loosen the screws on the table ( under side of table ) to the saw and center the blade in the hole and re-tighten the screws.. I had to do this with a couple saws I bought over the years..

Been playing around with modifying existing patterns to make them into things that others are not doing.. seems everyone selling the puzzles so I make clocks, LOL Also shrink them down to make ornaments.. Did a larger wall clock design but I broke it trying to cut the hole for the insert, so might try redesigning it from thin stock and adding a backer for strength.

Cut the one you made pattern for and then make the star and trace around it to make the pattern for the second star.. that'll be the challenge..

I know right..

Right, it's amazing how much time is "really" put into creating a project and something I think most everyone overlooks..

Yes it is working well considering insulation not completed yet. I’m running it on low all the time and run about 3 bags a week through it.

So added about 6 hours to my Excalibur’s hour meter this week but actually spent about 4 hours a day in the shop, lol. A good example of those folks that say they “run”their saw 8 hours a day. This is my thought when I see people say that. “ whatever” . I didn’t saw nearly as much as I’d like to have but had errands to run and a exhaust to replace on my wife’s Jeep. Anyway this weeks cuttings and the 6 hours of time added to the saw and 16 hours to the shop. Still working out here today so not a full weeks work either yet. 20 Aussie Ornaments 1 Aussie desk clock 1 Aussie wall clock 1 Basset Hound desk clock 1 Blue Tick desk clock 4 Dachshund puzzles 1 Stiletto shoe clock 8 Masonry ornaments 8 Medical Helicopter ornaments 8 Paint Roller ornaments Note: pictures of the shoe clock and Dachshund puzzles packaged and gone to customers before taking pictures. Lol darn it!

50ft patterns is a little excessive don't you think.. must have one massive scroll saw.. Congrats on scoring that.. sound like a very useful printer.. I had a large format but only 11 x 17 inch.. I bought specific to save me from having to piece together those large patterns.. But, I only printed a handful of the larger patterns and when it was worn out I went with a standard cheap laser printer that only does black.. Sure wish I had thought that through a little better since I like red lines on my patterns.. But I do like this laser printer better than the inkjet ones I've always used in the past..

I haven't been to the lumber store in over a year I think.. I still have enough to probably get me through most of this year since I have picked up a lot of cut offs etc. from my brothers mill. I'll likely need some BBply by early summer though. My local news did a report saying the prices are heading back up due to covid.. and short supply etc.

The Hawk stands are high too, I think back in the day people didn't "sit at jobs" and thus they made them to stand at, LOL.. Like Dave, I have a adjustable stool that I can use at both the Hawk and the Excalibur. The EX-21 is short compared to the Hawks.. The stool I have is at the tallest setting for the Hawk and almost near the lowest setting for the Excalibur.. I think the stool would be a much cheaper option than a new stand.. Cutting the original stand down might work though.. I'd be worried about cutting all the legs exactly the same though.. unless you have a way to add adjustable feet to it? Don't know how well the stands sell used but I've seen them on eBay and other places for over $100.. If you chose to go the new stand route.. you might be able to pull part of your money back from selling the taller stand.. I'd think it'd take some time to sell it though, but I could be wrong. Edit: Forgot to mention I also use a 6 x 6 chunk of pole barn post to place my foot switch on for the taller stand at the Hawks.. otherwise I can't reach the foot switch / floor from my stand..

While the only folks ever going past my place is the neighbors.. I have had 3 intruders.. first time was a chipmunk, second time was a large blue racer snake, and one other time the neighbors dog got loose and come to visit me, LOL.. My old shop had a neighbors cow get out and she thought my old shop was better than her house, LOL Oh.. and their chicken roosted in there for a few days once too.. LOL

Daughter got me this new sign for Christmas. Made from heavy maybe 10 gage metal and powder coated. Can’t wait for some warmer weather to hang it up on the shop.

Beautiful work there Ray, I have a boatload of spalted maple that just doesn't work well for the things I normally make as all the streaks of dark color wood distracts from fretwork type projects.. Anyway, I might have to try making bowls to use that wood up.. I've never done a bowl before, but did make some coffee cups and boxes out of some of it. Won't the size blade also affect the angle you use? In other words if you start out with a #3 blade you should finish cutting with the same number and style blade?

For my personal use, I frame with glass to help keep dust contaminates off the piece. If you've tried dusting a detailed fretwork piece you'll put glass in it to help from having to do the horrible dusting job, LOL That all said, portraits I sell.. I do not frame at all.. Selling online has it's benefits and my conclusion on frames or no frames has come from being able to "offer" just the piece and framed and framed with glass. Over the years I've only sold one piece that was framed.. I think it has to do with a few things... 1) shipping cost is substantially more with a framed piece 2) homemade frames aren't as cheap as a dollar store or even hobby lobby etc. and I'm not competing in their category for frames 3) customers personal decor style.. Before I gave the options for unframed.. they'd ask if I could make a dark wood, light wood, painted black, blah blah blah.. and then offering different prices for unframed vrs. framed and not selling any framed.. well.. one less thing I gotta make to sell it. LOL I have thought about re-offering framed again to see if maybe things changed in the last 8 years... 10-12 years ago portraits was the main things I sold aside from ornaments.

I didn't really complete the pattern as in this case I didn't clean up the wheels / spokes and also didn't make bridges for where to stop cutting on the wheel profile and the riders head. I don't normally share my patterns because I almost never make a completed pattern. I knew what I wanted to do with it so I don't take the time to make a cleaned up completed pattern. With that said you're welcome to use it if you can.. or have someone finish cleaning it up to make it a more comprehensive pattern. I should take the time to do this on many of my patterns but I don't because I don't sell them or typically share them.