kmmcrafts

The EX saws you see being sold now are NOT the same EX saw that used to be made.. Most of what you see on Amazon and eBay are actually refurbished China made knockoffs of the original one. China reverse engineered the old EX and did a pretty poor job of it.. While they look the same they are not.. while a lot of the parts are interchangeable not all of them are.. so even sourcing parts would be tough for the ones that are not the same. I have one of those cheaper saws.. Nothing but issues with it and finally got it working decent after throwing alot of "real " EX parts into the saw.. Basically the shell / frame is the only thing I didn't replace, LOL..

Looks like a wall mount dust collector.. The bag is white and hard to see since the background wall is white too.. but if you look at the hose going to the metal can and another hose going off that to where ever the sawdust is being collected.. Only reason I know this is I've been looking at them, LOL.. I have the big floor model but.. I could free up floor space for the Pegas saw if I also get a wall mount collector,

Cherry is my favorite wood to work with... Poplar is easy to work with but I'm not a huge fan of the various colors it makes once dipped.. BUT... it is the cheaper easier to work with so I've been using it quite a lot the last couple years..

Right, I've paid upwards of $1200 for a pint of paint in the past for custom work I used to do and that was some years back.. Gotta be good at knowing how much you need to mix for the job as wasting a once get's pretty when you have a ounce leftover from job.. Once the catalyst is in it it's only good for a few hours.. I did the body shop gig for a few years.. I've had some projects that was big enough that I couldn't sit at the saw.. that swing around can get you in the gut.. and I don't even have a bigger gut.. so.. yeah my hats off to those that do those bigger projects.. I can do them.. but I don't like doing them, I'm lazy and like a sit down job, I sell a few of these guitars ( Steve Good Pattern) every couple months I have to stack cut it 3 at a time to replenish my inventory.. I think it's only about 16" or maybe it's 18" long.. But anyway, I sit but I have to scoot my stool back and lean forward to see the saw line etc.. That's about the biggest project I want to make.. sometimes dread making it.. Good seller though so... LOL

They don't have cool colors though, Maybe I can paint my EX-21 with the leftover candy paints from a custom flames paint job I did on a Harley last summer.. Make it a 1 of a kind rare EX-21 China version.. Maybe someone would trade for a Pegas then, LOL Edit: Never mind.. that paint cost more than a new Pegas 30 inch so not a good idea, LOL

Me too.. do you know if Pegas actually makes a 16" ?

When I was doing portrait work i liked keeping count or close count of the entry holes.. The look on peoples faces when you know how many holes you drilled and cut.. Some folks that give them some perspective as many times they'll say.. Wow! that must have taken a long time.. . And the way I did it was to drill 10 - 20 holes at a time and write a tally mark on my pattern then when done I can add up the marks.. Standing at the drill press to drill them all at once isn't fun so doing X amount helps break up the work.. plus it keeps me from sitting at the saw for too long as I have to get up to make more holes, LOL

Those came out nice!! Like the camper, I gotta do that one, LOL.. So many to do and so little time though, LOL

I sell clock inserts.. only Gold with white face.. and only in the 37mm (1-7/16 ) and the same thing in 50mm ( 2" ).. I'm sold out on 2" ones at the moment and just got a order for the smaller ones but have not put them up on my website yet.. I have a order in for the 50mm but won't receive them until around April.. I buy factory direct.. all metal cases with rubber compression ring.. Not the cheap China motor you get with most other places.. I custom order mine with the Seyco watch motors.. I've been selling the 50mm for $8 each. and the 37mm for $7. Shipping is based on zip code and I usually do the cheaper first class mail if I can but you have option to upgrade to priority as well.. So long as you're in the States.. I do ship worldwide so if it's not working let me know.. sometimes the shipping thing messes up according to some customers but I haven't found anything wrong on my website end so not sure if it's shopper or website, LOL Most times shipping in the US is $5 first class or like $8.50.. but again.. will depend on where you are and the weight / size / how many you order etc.

Just seen Bearwood posted on FB that Pegas has a 30" saw in the works.. Hmm.. Heck, I only need the 21 and honestly wouldn't mind a 16".. Guess I don't do many large projects anymore.. Keeping my eye out for used 21"s and found one recently that I'm watching.. hoping it don't sell so I can make a offer.. With the 30 coming out maybe someone wants to upgrade to the bigger one and sell me the old one, LOL https://www.bearwood.com/product7978.html

Yeah that's the dremel attachment thing I linked above that Les used.. though I think he bought the cheaper fixed base router base instead of the plunge router one that I linked to above.. I bookmarked that topic because I like that metal plunge base.. Maybe should buy it incase they quite making them.. Though I'm sure I could make one fairly easy as well.. Time isn't on my side for puttering around like that though at least at the moment..

I seen where someone mounted this upside down overhead of a workbench.. then it wasn't awkward to try to hold it etc.. and infinite throat capacity..

Lacquer and oil base do not go well together.. You may get lucky and have it come out nice in the beginning but give it 2-5 years and it'll be flaking off.. I like to dip projects in Danish oil even if i plan to top coat.. why? because some timbers soak up a lot of spray clear ( poly ) and the Danish oil is cheap when comparing volume to the price of a spray can. I have spray equipment.. but I just don't do enough top coat finishing to justify the time in cleaning up spray equipment etc.. Anyway, dipping first and then top coating you can usually spray just a couple light topcoats rather than having the topcoat soak in and disappear into the grain.. I use both oil and water base poly.. typically use the water base over a dipped piece because it's already had the grain pop effect from dipping and it dries within 20 -30 minutes..

Probably muck up the pattern.. also might light a fire easier, LOL.. Don't know, I've read where others say their dremel has plenty of power.. so it maybe just my elcheapo WEN knock off dremel is too under powered. There is not too many larger projects these days that I really need to use it so not sure if it's worth investing into one of these nicer set-ups.. I don't really use a dremel so buying a higher end more $$ motor and that better made plunge set up get's a lot of money invested into it.. that's half way there to a much better bigger real drill press that could be used for a lot more things..

The thing I don't like about the Seyco is if the motor goes bad it appears to me you through it out and buy another one.. I'm just worried at my level of scrolling and primarily drilling through thicker hardwood I might be over working that little thing... The dremel I have is not a actual dremel it's a WEN knock off that was really cheap.. Maybe why it's so under powered? I mean it does do the job but like I said.. You got to run the speed up pretty high to get the torque to drill through 3/4" hardwood.. then it smoking / burning through rather than drilling. LOL The dremel / WEN motor has held up good for me but the plastic plunge part has gotten really sloppy and it got to a point where it's quite difficult to drill straight holes.. so i no longer use it other than on super large projects that my drill press can't get to the center. I may try a higher end dremel.. If it works with more torque then I'll spurge and buy a "quality metal" plunge base.. Not cheap but these things you could run over with the car and have it still be more accurate than the plastic garbage.. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routers-and-bits/routers/stewmac-plunge-router-base/

Just curious how does it do for power in thicker stock? I've been eyeing that seyco drill for a few years and have a couple pennies saved up for a new toy, LOL..

Forgot to mention that I hate the sticky spray glue all over my fingers.. Peel and stick labels don't do that to my fingers.. Not an issue anymore since my new cell phone doesn't have the fingerprint reader to unlock the phone.. Whenever I used the spray glue my phone wouldn't unlock for a week.. LOL At least that is my excuse when I don't answer it,

Gotta be careful if you use that Dremel set up with thick wood.. I have basically the same set up but since I'm almost always stack cutting or cutting 1/2 - 3/4 inch material the router has to be at a pretty good speed to have enough power.. then with the speed the drill bits burn up fast.. Not to mention that with some time the router base uprights will get worn and sloppy and if you're not careful going even pressure on each of the router handles you'll be drilling holes on an angle.. Good set up for the larger projects in thin stock.. like portrait cutting where the actual drill press won't reach the center though..

Did this some years ago.. along with several others but can't seem to remember where the pictures are.. maybe on my old laptop..

A lot depends on many different things.. including wood type.. I find that Red Oak really soaks up the oil if dipping it in.. I almost always use Danish oil.. each oil type probably dries differently. Other factors for drying is Temperature and humidity.. In the summer months projects up in the hot loft of my shop dry out pretty good within 3 days most times.. unless it's oak, LOL But in the winter time I've had projects that looked and felt dried out and ready to be top coated.. But if I bring it in the warm house it'll start seeping oil from the wood pores so I normally give it a couple days in the cold shop then bring it in for a few days.. i heat house with wood which dries out the air a lot.. so 1-2 days in here and it's dried out good.. Lacquer based clears don't get along too well with the oil finishes.. however Danish oil has a small amount of poly in it so that's what I use.. and if it needs a top coat I use the water base poly.. Water base poly doesn't change the wood grain tones so IF I'm not using oil at all first I use the oil based poly.. Doesn't make the grain pop quite as well as dipping in oil but it does pop it some..

Yeah can be printed with inkjet or laser printer.. I still use clear self adhesive shelf liner on the wood and then the pattern onto that.. The shipping labels are make to stick on packages well as you don't want a address label to fall off so they're fairly sticky and if applied straight to the wood then you'll need a heat gun or something to get them back off, LOL the shelf liner is wonderful for that.. some use blue painters tape or packing tape as well.. but anyway.. you still want to use something like that probably.. I haven't tried sticking to wood and then spray mineral spirits method yet.. I like the shelf liner best so that's what I do.

For the patterns I don't use spray glue Unless the pattern is bigger than a normal sheet of paper.. IF it's the normal sheet of paper size then I buy self adhesive full sheet shipping labels.. No sprays, just print peel and stick.. Probably not an answer you was looking for but that's what I do.. Most of the stuff I make fits a full sheet.. https://www.amazon.com/Avery-Shipping-Printers-Permanent-TrueBlock/dp/B000093L1J?th=1 These labels are not what I use.. just a sample of what I'm talking about.. I buy bulk 1000 sheets at a time for about $70 As for painting.. well, LOL.. again Most items are just dipped into a Danish oil.. The few items that I do top coat.. I use a old box to spray on top of.. BUT, I also have a special box fan with furnace filter that sucks the over sprayed paint right into the filter so it doesn't float around and paint the tops of my tools as it settles.. Ideally.. if you're mostly using top coats you really should have a dedicated finish room so you're not getting sawdust and other debris in your finish.. Ideally the room would have a fan with filter down low for fresh intake air.. and another on the opposite side up high with filter to suck out and filter the over spray in the air.. That's just my opinion.. and experience with restoring / painting cars, tractors etc. over the years.. I realize you're not spraying that amount.. but it's still a good idea on a much smaller scale.. That's why I say I think Box fans would work well.. Not so much for the larger scale paint room I have for the cars..

Cutting a stack of thin stock rather than just one piece also helps with some strength.. A lot of folks keep the waste area and tape it back in too as mentioned above. I've never done that one before.. Not sure what size blade or how thick of material you're working with but.. sometimes going to a smaller blade than you normally use will cut slower maybe but also will be less aggressive in the wood..

I was kind of thinking... thought I read somewhere the the newer DeWalts are made in China too? Maybe wrong on that DeWalt I had was a awesome saw.. and way better saw than my China made Excalibur.. I did have to pull it apart and replace the bearings in the old DW after a couple years.. Once I did that and put some good synthetic grease in the bearings.. that saw run a lot of hours for about another 6 years before needing a complete rebuild again... Back then I didn't saw nearly as much as I do now but I was still running it a lot.. Just my opinion.. If you're mechanical enough and are happy with the Delta. I'd try rebuilding the saw and using a good grease.. Pegas and the like saws are great saws.. But I don't see such a huge advantage over the price difference unless you are doing a lot of angle cutting... Really nice to have the table flat and the head tilt instead of the table tilting.. Other than that it's almost the same saw.. You can adjust the blade aggression on the Pegas and like saws but if you're used to using the delta and used to how it cuts then it's probably not going to make a big deal of difference for you..

Thanks Brenda, I should have mentioned that.. I guess in my brain that everyone knows where to get the puzzle patterns..