kmmcrafts

If they have CD sets boy I'd like to find some of those... The CWWC magazine is the one I liked best.. I have a few of the magazines.. and like Dan.. they are in a file cabinet and rarely even looked at.. I don't think they had any CD's but the other magazine Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts I believe is the one that did cd sets from past issues..

Jerry and Kevin communicate on FB from time to time.. I think this is the last time we have heard any updates.. I thought there was a different one but I couldn't find it.. for some reason I thought there was one stating he had Covid and wasn't doing all that good.. Hope he is better now..

I was thinking the same thing a while ago.. then I went and checked his profile page that showed he had logged in recently.. I just went to look and he had last logged on Sunday night.

Yeah the ply is consistent for laser work as opposed to solid lumber etc.. I have orders for this year Christmas ornaments for laser work.. I have enough on hand for said orders but.. torn if I want to go grab 10 sheets or so for other possible laser ornament works.. I can scroll ornaments from any hardwood or most any plywood.. laser not so much.. Good thing about laser is.. I can switch up what I use it for.. acrylic, slate stone coasters, cork and many other things that might help take the load off of buying BB ply.

I just called my local source for 1/8" 5 x 5 sheets.. quantity discounts of more than 10 sheets is priced at $39.89 per sheet.. last time I purchased it was $13.. He said once it's gone it's gone because as has been mentioned.. we aren't importing anything from Russia.. OH forgot to mention.. this is the price of only one good side and football patches on the other side..

I made rings for my daughter and wife several years ago.. I made a inlay peace sign pendant for my daughter back a few years ago when the symbol made another "in style" comeback for a couple short lived years, LOL The rings I made was actually a template from Steve Good I think.. He has patterns for estimated ring sizes etc.. I did a glue up of walnut and maple.. then basically just cut it out and did all the shaping by sanding it. Quite a lot of work this way but the rings came out awesome.. I used clear Lacquer for the finish.. held up pretty good but after a couple years there is some wear showing on the finish. Could always just top coat again I suppose. Used to be a guy I followed on instagram that made rings and sold them on etsy.. his method was to cut strips of thin laminate material and super glue. he had different size dowels for doing his glue ups.. He would apply some glue and roll the laminate up and just kept gluing / rolling.. then sand and shape it.. His finish was actually the CA glue ( super glue ).. He made some beautiful rings.. weren't cheap either at a couple hundred each. He's probably still on instagram and etsy.. I just don't get on and follow the people like I once did.. He had quite a few sales and seemed to do really well with it.

While I know voids are a thing.. and everyone suggest BBply because there are no voids or very few.. I've scrolled a lot of plain old 1/4" good 1 and 2 sides of plywood over the last 20 years.. I have yet ran into any issues with the voids.. Not saying they aren't there.. and I can feel and see a big difference in quality of BB ply and strength too.. You bring up a good topic though and it is something to think about.. and has been mentioned.. they have struggled with the supply of it in the past few years and prices have skyrocketed.. Might be a time to stock up if you absolutely have to have this stuff.. I can see it getting pretty pricey.

Tom brings up some good points about atomizing with spray guns and also about nozzle sizes.. My opinion is.. with finishing wood you don't need a top dollar gun like you do with spraying cars.. Wood absorbs a lot of what is sprayed on it.. a car finish does very little of that.. spraying a large flat area ( say a car hood, roof or trunk lid ) you need a good gun to lay out a nice smooth finish.. need a person with a very good eye and spraying skills too.. but we'll put that aside for a different topic as it's irrelevant with wood finishing.. I have some of the top of the line spray equipment ( maybe not in todays standards as much of my equipment is from pre 2000's ). I've sprayed with cheap junk guns that atomizing was pretty poor, however having good eye for the spray laying out onto the object and knowing how to cover it and still getting good results comes with experience with laying out a finish.. with auto paints when you start getting a lot of orange peel look.. it can be corrected just simply spraying a flash of nothing but paint reducer ( no paint or very little paint ).. orange peel can also come from using the wrong temp grade of reducers and activators.. this is all with auto paints and really doesn't pertain to spraying a few handfuls of ornament at a time. Spraying outside in the back yard can get tricky because the temp of the car metal can and will vary greatly from the side the sun it hitting it from the side that is more shaded.. While spray cans have greatly improved from the years past.. they still are no comparison to spraying with a cheap spray gun.. Spray cans mostly at best give you a good 2-3 inch spray pattern.. perfect for spraying small objects.. not so much for spraying that large flat ( car hood ) area.. Most cheap spray guns will atomize the paint as well as a spray can and you really don't need a 6-12 inch spray pattern for ornaments.. so I say a cheap gun for spraying wood ornaments is probably going to do the job just fine.. since you're satisfied with the current method of spray cans and you're spraying just some small items.. Now.. if you're planning to spray some cabinets or a large table top.. you might consider buying a better gun.. but when spraying small items.. I believe you'll do just fine with a cheap harbor freight spray gun.. Just my opinion..

I suggest a gravity feed gun over any siphon feed gun.. a siphon feed needs quite a lot of air pressure for sucking up the paint.. this in turn makes you blow a lot of air into the shop which in turn can stir up a lot of settled fine dust.. which then can end up on your ornaments.. While you should be spraying in a nice clean and ventilated area anyway.. That all said.. with the higher pressure of the siphon gun trying to spray light weight ornaments.. you might be blowing them around too.. plus you get a ton of spray that is blown out into the air instead of onto your ornaments.. thus requiring more clear usage and wasting a lot of it in the air. Some gravity feed guns and HVLP guns can spray decent with as low as 8-10 psi.. siphon guns need usually a minimum of around 40psi.. Gravity feed guns can spray down to the last drop of clear in the cup.. siphon feed guns need enough to reach the siphon straw / tube to suck up the clear which is also a waste of material.. as sometimes that can be a substantial amount to reach the siphon tube if you're aiming the gun down making the clear in the cup go to one side of the cup.

A dry lube might keep the sawdust from sticking to the oil and creating a gooey mess..

I'm not a wood finishing expert so someone else will have to suggest what finish would best suit your needs.. I'll say that one that is easy to clean up ( spray equipment isn't fun to clean ) and one that the cleaner needed is cheap and readily available.. Also a finish that is quick drying.. If you're staining or dipping in BLO or similar then you'll need something compatible with that as well.. Lacquer doesn't usually go well with oil based stains ( I don't think ).. at least in the automotive world of finishes that would be a big no no.. If it were me and I was always going to be top coating over a oil base stain.. I'd go with the water based Polyurethane.. But I'm sure someone else will have a better opinion on that than I have. But being able to clean up with soap and water.. fast drying.. etc seems like that would fit the bill pretty well. I think Shellac dries pretty quick and cleans up easy with alcohol too.. probably works well for a top coat? I don't know.. Another thing to think about is the fumes being flammable.. as with a spray gun it's easier to put a lot more fumes into the air. Best of luck with whatever you choose.. hopefully someone can offer better advice on what to use.

What's your method and product for spraying.. I can't imagine doing that amount of product with spray cans.. I hope you're at least buying quart / gallon cans and spraying with a spray gun. If you're not then that's a good start for saving cost. With everything going up in cost I hope you've followed up by raising your cost to cover the expense difference. For me and my small business the way I stay competitive is buy supplies in bulk.. Run production runs of product to minimalize tool set-up etc.. stack cut when possible.. calculate blank sizes to minimize wasted wood.. Combine patterns to fill a sheet of paper to minimize paper waste, change solid colored patterns to lines so you're not wasting ink. lots of pattern designers use a slight grey color to mark what to cut etc.. I change them to just lines.. no need to use up ink.

That's the one I was trying to think of the other day.. I remember reading a similar topic some years ago and couldn't remember and couldn't find the topic either.. probably was way back before I found the scrollsawvillage.. Thanks

Yeah, I had forgotten about the calendar images etc. I thought there was a discussion about those images being copywrite too though?

Where do you get free to use images for either pattern making or maybe even making jigsaw puzzles.. I know there used to be some sites years ago that had copywrite free images to use for whatever you wanted.. I should have bookmarked some of these sites years ago but at that time I had no interest.. now I'd like to try some photo jigsaw type puzzles and even expand on my pattern designing skills or lack thereof, LOL SO.. where can I get said images.. If I make stuff like jigsaw puzzles from the photos am I allowed to put the puzzles on etsy for selling or are they images to use for personal use and I need to become a photographer if I want to make my own puzzles to sell? Thank you for any input on the discussion.

Who reads? Just look at the pictures / patterns..

Yeah, there was one here just like that one that the guy had for $500 or so.. CL listing kept expiring and each time he relisted it with a lower price.. I almost bit the last time he listed it at $200 but it was at Christmas time and I really didn't have the time to go get it etc.. he never took the ad down and it finally expired.. hoping he'd list it again but maybe he sold it and just let it expire.. Not sure.. I keep watching for it.. There is another older one in Ann Arbor for sale but it's old.. before they had the front tension etc. etc. and it's priced at 4? 0r 500. way too much for what it is.. to me anyway.. LOL

Yeah, I'd probably never sell my Hawk as I do love it for "certain styles" of cutting.. but cutting thick solid timber I like the style of the DW, Ex type saws.. I use both saws enough to justify having both.. Kinda annoyed with the cheap China made saw and probably be buying a new Pegas.. Like to try a Hegner one day.. I like the more compact stands and a "soft start" motor over the instant full speed of the new Hawk.. Both will have their place in my shop for various reasons / uses.. Probably put my EX up for sale and possibly one of the other Hawks to help fund the Pegas..

I suggest a hex socket rather than a hex wrench.. That guard was one of the first things I removed from mine as well.. LOL Don't know if they have the size in this set that you need but just to show what I mean by Hex socket.. https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-metric-hex-socket-set-6-pc-69546.html

I never got used to top feeding.. I've mentally in my head made myself do it a few times but it's just natural for me to bottom feed. I only have ever angled my table in the 20 years of sawing about 4 times.. One was just to make a bowl, and the other time was to try doing inlay.. Now days I do inlay on the CNC as it's more precise and no drilling holes needed.. All that said, I'll more likely go with Pegas because I do like the way these saws cut.. slightly more aggressive and easier on blades. Real delicate thin stock cutting I still like my Hawk way better.. But cutting thick stock with not many inside cuts I'd rather cut on the EX. I've got 410 hours on that EX since I rebuilt it.. most of them hours has been recent as I haven't touched the Hawk since last October, I've been making a lot of puzzles and clocks lately..

I believe the Pegas has a different angle adjustment set-up than the old EX and Seyco saws have.. Maybe it's the same to move it but I know they have more stops for common angles? I'm about to splurge for a new saw.. I've been torn between the Pegas and the Hegner.. Couple things about both that I like..

I set my stand up in the same way you did.. I have the front legs as low as they go and the back legs as high as they go.. but the 2 x 4 added to the back makes it about exactly the way I like it.. I do wish my whole stand was raised up about 4 inch or so more.. My stool doesn't go real low.. I suppose I could get a new stool or build a platform.. LOL..

Never heard of the power control module.. Is there a different name to them? I search google for craftsman power control module and a lawn mower part come up, LOL I'd be interested in getting one.. but have no idea what to search for or even what it is.

I've never heard of Anatoly until this topic.. Have not been into the FB groups much until recently.. Prayers to all that are involved in that area..

I don't think the MetroVac 5000 that Seyco sells as their Scroll Saw Dust Vac is really designed to turn on and off with a foot switch either but I've had this for two years now and run 400 hours on my saw.. still working very well.. I will note that.. while the dust bag doesn't really "fill up" since it has a dust deputy in the seyco kit.. The bag does get some really fine dust in it and really restricts the air flow.. I can tell by sound of the Vac motor that it's working harder by it being a bit louder.. I now take a air hose outside and blow the dust out of the bag every week or so and can surely notice a difference in performance and sound.. I guess my point is.. Is it possible that rather than the turning on / off with the foot switch that it could be clogged filter / air flow.. maybe a combo of that and turning on / off? If the air flow is blocked even a little on my vac system the vac body gets hotter.. in my system the air flow goes across the motor to "cool" the motor.. I also from time to time take the bag out and blow air with my air hose through the inside of the vac.. I notice sometimes the fine dust even escapes the bag and gets a coating of fine dust on the impeller and motor.. Anyway.. just some thoughts.. I'd certainly go nuts if the vac was on the whole time.. plus.. seems like it'd get hot.. don't seem like to me they're designed to run continually for hours either.. especially if some dust does escape to the motor.. could be a fire hazard if that gets hot enough with some dust on it.. Why I blow the dust out of mine periodically..