kmmcrafts

My old table saw will be going to the scrap metal recyclers.. it's too dangerous to sell in my opinion.. the bad bearing and wear on the transmission makes the blade have some wobble and it's really just not all that save to use.. I really should have scrapped it 5-6 years ago instead of putting a band aid on it so to speak. The planer I had offered up free to a few friends but no takers so I'll put it up on FB Marketplace soon.. It's getting worn but does work well enough and has some life left. I just know prices are going up on most everything really soon.. and I know I'm going to "need" them in the next couple years.. Might as well buy now.. if I don't like them for some reason with inflation happening, I might be able to sell them for near what I paid, LOL

Yeah, the drawing program ( V-carve ) for my CNC is way easier to design with than inkscape and other free programs..

Well okay then, here is the new planer. No pictures of the table saw yet since it hasn’t been delivered. Lol

I bought this one here.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-10-in-Job-Site-Table-Saw-with-Rolling-Stand-DWE7491RS/204512007 I started off with most my tools either free or cheap quality used and mostly worn out.. LOL.. I love my 12" DW miter saw I bought last year.. and the rolling stand that came with it makes it very easy to move around when needed. My one dislike is I mistakenly bought the one without a laser line or the shadow light... but that said I ran across a YouTube video where you can buy the LED shadow light kit for the saw I have.. so that is also ordered and in the mail soon. Quality tools make the hobby / business so much more enjoyable. My old Ryobi planer didn't come with a stand so I bought the larger heavy duty stand from HF but it's kinda flimsy with the weight of the planer etc. and no wheels to move it, so I'm always picking it up ( I have a clear coating on my floor that I try not to scratch ) to move etc.. This new stand for my new planer is so nice as it's so easy to hit the peddle to put it on the wheels and push / pull it anywhere. Same thing with my table saw.. always pick it up to move it.. so I'm pretty excited to get this new one with the rolling stand. Same for my old miter saw.. it was a nice saw but it was mounted to a cheap regular HF stand and had no board supports for long boards etc.. All of these tools worked well for me and I never knew what I was missing out on until I got the rolling miter saw stand.. LOL Also for the most part my shop is / was big enough to not "have to" move stuff.. However I bought a project car to fix up a few weeks ago and I want to try to keep my shop condensed down to one bay so I can put the car inside and have plenty of work room around it.

My table saw has been on its last leg. about 6-8 years ago a bearing in the transmission seized up on my elcheapo tradesman table saw from the 1990's before I was into woodworking. I was doing a home remodel project and needed a cheap table saw so the Tradesman was the cheapest that was available. Think I paid $70 on sale with stand, LOL. Anyway when that bearing went out smoke rolled out of the motor, LOL.. Next day for fun I plugged it back in and turn on the saw and it worked again.. so I took it apart and changed that bearing, however the motor was very weak after that and could only use it for chopping down my sheets of BBply 1/8" or 1/4" that was about all it could handle. I finally had enough of being limited to just cutting the ply down to size so this morning I ordered a DeWalt jobsite type saw.. I have a few projects that I'd like to make that will require a better saw. On a side note.. The new deWalt planer I bought about a month ago.. I finally unboxed it yesterday and put the stand etc together and set it up.. Haven't turned it on yet.. Thinking I'm going to run a a lot of rough cut kinda dirty lumber through my old one before I sell it.. I just put new knives it the old one and they have a edge on both sides.. I'm going to run the rough cut through it until the one side is dull then switch to the other side and then list it forsale.. I have about 200bdft each of rough cut Maple and Walnut that was given to me.. That stuff always ruins my knives pretty quick so hoping to just take a pass or two to kinda get the rough cut dirty off them so I can run them through my new one as needed. LOL

I paid $38 a sheet about 3-4 weeks ago.. BUT.. I saved $5 a sheet because I bought quantity for a discount.. The 3 sheets I originally wanted would have been close to the same total price of the 10 sheets I ended up with, LOL.. Was really tempting to save $10 a sheet and buy 20 or more sheets.. Since I mostly stopped doing portrait work and wall clocks I only go through about 3 - 4 sheets a year just doing ornaments.. I should be good for a while since I still had 3 sheets on hand before buying some.. I just got word that prices were going up and also availability might get very scarce because it comes from Russia, LOL Edit: I wasn't trying to be a hoarder but the prices made me that way..

My type 2 showed date of manufacture on the motor tag. At least I think that is what the numbers meant as I bought it in 2008 and the tag said 2008.. it didn't really say on it that it was the date.. if I remember correctly it was just at the end of the serial number.. so I never "really" knew if that was what it meant. I just assumed it meant the date. Edit to add: I'm not exactly sure but I think the Type 1 saw ended around 2003 - 5 ish.. and that was when they moved production to Taiwan.. Then for the first few saws that came out of the new plant had some alignment issues with bolt holes somewhere in the saw that made the blade have a lot of forward / backward motion which made the saw cut very aggressive.. They got a bad name going around for the Type 2 with everyone saying stay away from the type 2 saw.. and still to this day everyone says to buy a Type 1 However, now days in 2022 a Type 1 saw is really quite old and would likely have the grease ( if never been opened up and greased ) dried up and probably would have issues sooner than later.. ( just my opinion ). There are no parts differences between the two types.. just means more about what plant it was made in.. If I was buying a used one I'd probably not consider a low year type 2 such as a 2001 - 2006 as you might get one of those first few from the new plant that had some issues.. Plus if you're getting that old of one you might as well plan on takin it apart to grease it etc.

Nice work as always.. Hope you're enjoying the saw time but also take it slow and easy..

Sorry your project didn't go as planned, sounds like you've found a alternative fix for it though. I see they spray water on cutting boards.. from what I've read they do that to raise the grain to do a final sanding.. I'd never heard the mixture though.. they always say water on the videos I watch on YouTube. After spraying some of my pieces with the water base poly and the grain rising some.. I've learned the hard way not to spray water base unless I plan to sand it again OR it seems to work well if I already have applied Danish oil or some other finish first..

Nice job! I really like that one..

I've used the 50/50 mix in the past because everyone was talking about it being better than Danish oil.. I honestly had a hard time telling the difference.. still stinks for a few days.. Only thing I could come up with is the fact that the homemade mix really should have a top coat.. and Danish oil has poly or varnish? in it already and really no need to top coat.. at least that is what I've been told.. Top coats on most fretwork looks terrible in my opinion plus I have no "good" area that is dust free ( paint booth ) to spray it.. Work okay in the summer outside so long as no rain in the forecast etc. and definitely not an option in the winter. I've read somewhere that you can add a small amount of wipe on poly to the 50/50 mix and you basically have the same thing as Danish oil.. have yet to give that a try..

Hmm, soapy water huh.. I'll be interested in your results on that if you try it.. I feel your pain on time lines being I sell online and mostly use Danish oil finish.. In the summer months I can set the project outside in the sun for a few hours and usually I can have the smell gone within 2-3 days.. During the cold winter.. that's another story and not going to happen. Most times in the cold climate if the need to ship it is within a few days I will just use a different method to finish but I do like the way the Danish Oil makes the wood grain pop. A lot of times in the cold I use the mineral oil and beeswax mix or a polyurethane spray. I heat the shop with a wood pellet stove.. setting the project out in front of that where the blower blows the heat out.. most times I can still achieve a 3-5 day no smell and if I do smell slightly and I need to ship. I will top coat with the water base poly and that takes care of the smell. I hate top coating though.. so this soapy water I might have to give a try on some scrap to see what happens.

I started cutting it the other day.. Guess I should have studied the plans better, I now realize the colors / wood species I was cutting was backwards of what I wanted, LOL.. I quit cutting because I have a order to make now.. and trying to decide how I want to go forward with it. Tempted to just cut it all out of maple and put it together so I have a better understanding of what wood to use where.. I wanted to do contrasting colors using different wood but that always messes with my mind..

I sometimes topcoat with waterbase Polyurethane ( stuff in the blue can ).. it dries to touch within about 20-30 minutes but cures ( no smell ) usually within a day or so.. and the smell isn't too strong anyway.

Yeah, I've been reading about shortages.. I myself have been experimenting with other types of ply etc. and I really like the project panels from Home Depot ( See my posting from last week about the HD Project panels ). Not really any cheaper than the price of BBply at the moment but when BBply supply runs out it's not going to be available most likely for a long time. I have enough BBP to get me by for probably 1-2 years.. maybe longer if business slows down, which I'm kinda expecting to happen.. since everything price so high all of a sudden.. I think people will have less money to shop with for a few years at least.

I've found it depends a lot on the type of wood and how long you let it set in the oil.. Wood types that really soak it in.. may take several weeks. I mess with cherry mostly but recently in the last couple years started using poplar for puzzles. The cherry it'll dry out fairly quick like 3-5 days. Poplar might take a couple weeks.. and don't even think about red oak or spalted maple.. In those woods that really soak it up, I usually try to just do a very quick dip and wipe off so it's not soaked in deep into the wood as that is when it takes forever to dry out. Also, humidity plays a huge factor.. Now there are also different VOC's in Danish oil.. and the one type dries about 3 times faster than the other ( or it seems ), LOL.. BUT the slower dry one also leaves a nicer luster / sheen

I just bought this design and the Ford Bronco he has. My brother will love the Harley. Now, I'm exited to make it, do I cut the order I have or cheat and cut this. Probably need to put my new planer together first since all my wood stock is 1" ... well dang it.. I'm going to cut this someday for sure, because I paid for the pattern... I've never bought a pattern that I never intended to cut.. but do have patterns I purchased years ago and still planning to cut them.. I'm just supporting the designers yeah that's it.. I'm supporting the designers.. I really do hope to cut this in the next couple weeks.. but we'll see how reality set's in and what actually happens. I'll post it when it's done.

First place I'd check is the stand.. I've had mine pick up a vibration and it was the stand had gotten bumped slightly and wasn't planted firm on all 4 legs to the floor. In my case I have the back legs setting on a 2 x 4 to raise the back up higher and the legs had moved enough to be setting on the edge of the 2 x 4 and caused the vibration. Another 1st or second thing to check would be that the upper arm is parallel to the saw table.. I've had my adjustment knob start turning on its own and the saw became way out of adjustment, which caused vibration and odd noise.. As has been mentioned.. check all visible bolts, nuts, and screws to be sure they're snugged up tight, both on the saw stand, saw to stand bolts, and then the saw itself. If these all check out okay.. you may have some bearings that the grease has dried up and worn the bearings and sleeve pins.. The more common ones to go are the ones at the front of the saw in the link arms etc that get exposed to the fine sawdust ( typically the lower arm ) as the dust drops down onto them pivot points. Next more common would be the larger needle bearing at the back of the saw..

That's what I use on my table saw.. also use the same brand for my miter saw but I think maybe that one is a 60 tooth.. can't remember now but it does a wonderful nice clean cut..

What's your thoughts on this table saw? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-10-in-Job-Site-Table-Saw-with-Rolling-Stand-DWE7491RS/204512007 This is the one I've had my eye on for a long time.. Is there something better for the money? I have the space and money for larger unit however I want something somewhat portable and easy to move around. I quite often condense my shop to make auto repairs etc.. especially now that I just bought another project car to build.. Too many hobbies, LOL While the money and space is there.. doesn't mean I want to use it on a table saw that mostly only use it for cutting down large sheets of plywood down to scrollable sizes. I don't see myself making a ton of portrait type projects (frames) as they're harder to sell than a functional piece like a clock, puzzle, or low cost Christmas ornaments.. as I've been there done that with portrait stuff.. but mostly bought custom frames from Hobby Lobby and mostly had customers ask for unframed anyway.. I only wanted to make this frame for my friend just so I could say I made the frame too.. in other words I'm not planning to go into frame making. I would however use the table saw to make cutting boards again.. they're good sellers too. but I don't need a huge $1000 table saw for cutting boards either, LOL

Thank you for your wonderful process of making frames.. Now I have a good excuse to buy a new table saw, . My table saw motor is very weak as about 4-5 years ago a bearing locked up in the gearbox and smoke rolled out the motor. I took it apart and replaced the bearing but ever since then the motor doesn't have power enough to cut anything but my thin plywood down to size. That's mostly what I used it for anyway so I've just put up with it being that way. I've put money aside for a new one but this one just hasn't given out for what I needed it for. I wonder how well it'd work to glue up a panel and cut a frame out with my CNC router. Might look weird because the wood grain would be all the same direction. I could carve the rabbit out and then make the profile cut of the frame, LOL.

Looking at my order page and the shipping details etc. They are showing that everything was delivered.. no stand yet but all my other stuff showed up.. The order does show they'll ship in two different boxes.. These items that ship in several boxes are always confusing the way they mark the item shipped.. Not the first time this has happen to me.. I'll give it until the middle of next week and if it hasn't showed up then I'll have to call and see what's going on.. Hope my neighbor didn't get a new DW stand on my behalf.. LOL They really should have each box have it's own tracking to track in case it get lost or? but the way they do it is screwed up in my opinion.. Thankfully I've never had an issue with these multiple boxes orders..

Wonder if the salt makes the glue taste better too..

Glad you're enjoying the hobby. Looks like you're putting that old Hawk to good use, certain projects makes me wish I'd have kept that old saw.. loved the way the arm goes up higher than any of the other saws and love that soft start that one has.. Great job on the crappie!

I used to use the colored foam type sheets.. I just don't really like it anymore after using something much stronger and more solid. Most my recent backers was 1/4" walnut plywood for sign type projects and clocks.. but for something going to be framed I feel like I need to use thinner than 1/4" Thinking 1/8" would for much better in a frame.