kmmcrafts

A dry lube might keep the sawdust from sticking to the oil and creating a gooey mess..

I'm not a wood finishing expert so someone else will have to suggest what finish would best suit your needs.. I'll say that one that is easy to clean up ( spray equipment isn't fun to clean ) and one that the cleaner needed is cheap and readily available.. Also a finish that is quick drying.. If you're staining or dipping in BLO or similar then you'll need something compatible with that as well.. Lacquer doesn't usually go well with oil based stains ( I don't think ).. at least in the automotive world of finishes that would be a big no no.. If it were me and I was always going to be top coating over a oil base stain.. I'd go with the water based Polyurethane.. But I'm sure someone else will have a better opinion on that than I have. But being able to clean up with soap and water.. fast drying.. etc seems like that would fit the bill pretty well. I think Shellac dries pretty quick and cleans up easy with alcohol too.. probably works well for a top coat? I don't know.. Another thing to think about is the fumes being flammable.. as with a spray gun it's easier to put a lot more fumes into the air. Best of luck with whatever you choose.. hopefully someone can offer better advice on what to use.

What's your method and product for spraying.. I can't imagine doing that amount of product with spray cans.. I hope you're at least buying quart / gallon cans and spraying with a spray gun. If you're not then that's a good start for saving cost. With everything going up in cost I hope you've followed up by raising your cost to cover the expense difference. For me and my small business the way I stay competitive is buy supplies in bulk.. Run production runs of product to minimalize tool set-up etc.. stack cut when possible.. calculate blank sizes to minimize wasted wood.. Combine patterns to fill a sheet of paper to minimize paper waste, change solid colored patterns to lines so you're not wasting ink. lots of pattern designers use a slight grey color to mark what to cut etc.. I change them to just lines.. no need to use up ink.

That's the one I was trying to think of the other day.. I remember reading a similar topic some years ago and couldn't remember and couldn't find the topic either.. probably was way back before I found the scrollsawvillage.. Thanks

Yeah, I had forgotten about the calendar images etc. I thought there was a discussion about those images being copywrite too though?

Where do you get free to use images for either pattern making or maybe even making jigsaw puzzles.. I know there used to be some sites years ago that had copywrite free images to use for whatever you wanted.. I should have bookmarked some of these sites years ago but at that time I had no interest.. now I'd like to try some photo jigsaw type puzzles and even expand on my pattern designing skills or lack thereof, LOL SO.. where can I get said images.. If I make stuff like jigsaw puzzles from the photos am I allowed to put the puzzles on etsy for selling or are they images to use for personal use and I need to become a photographer if I want to make my own puzzles to sell? Thank you for any input on the discussion.

Who reads? Just look at the pictures / patterns..

Yeah, there was one here just like that one that the guy had for $500 or so.. CL listing kept expiring and each time he relisted it with a lower price.. I almost bit the last time he listed it at $200 but it was at Christmas time and I really didn't have the time to go get it etc.. he never took the ad down and it finally expired.. hoping he'd list it again but maybe he sold it and just let it expire.. Not sure.. I keep watching for it.. There is another older one in Ann Arbor for sale but it's old.. before they had the front tension etc. etc. and it's priced at 4? 0r 500. way too much for what it is.. to me anyway.. LOL

Yeah, I'd probably never sell my Hawk as I do love it for "certain styles" of cutting.. but cutting thick solid timber I like the style of the DW, Ex type saws.. I use both saws enough to justify having both.. Kinda annoyed with the cheap China made saw and probably be buying a new Pegas.. Like to try a Hegner one day.. I like the more compact stands and a "soft start" motor over the instant full speed of the new Hawk.. Both will have their place in my shop for various reasons / uses.. Probably put my EX up for sale and possibly one of the other Hawks to help fund the Pegas..

I suggest a hex socket rather than a hex wrench.. That guard was one of the first things I removed from mine as well.. LOL Don't know if they have the size in this set that you need but just to show what I mean by Hex socket.. https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-metric-hex-socket-set-6-pc-69546.html

I never got used to top feeding.. I've mentally in my head made myself do it a few times but it's just natural for me to bottom feed. I only have ever angled my table in the 20 years of sawing about 4 times.. One was just to make a bowl, and the other time was to try doing inlay.. Now days I do inlay on the CNC as it's more precise and no drilling holes needed.. All that said, I'll more likely go with Pegas because I do like the way these saws cut.. slightly more aggressive and easier on blades. Real delicate thin stock cutting I still like my Hawk way better.. But cutting thick stock with not many inside cuts I'd rather cut on the EX. I've got 410 hours on that EX since I rebuilt it.. most of them hours has been recent as I haven't touched the Hawk since last October, I've been making a lot of puzzles and clocks lately..

I believe the Pegas has a different angle adjustment set-up than the old EX and Seyco saws have.. Maybe it's the same to move it but I know they have more stops for common angles? I'm about to splurge for a new saw.. I've been torn between the Pegas and the Hegner.. Couple things about both that I like..

I set my stand up in the same way you did.. I have the front legs as low as they go and the back legs as high as they go.. but the 2 x 4 added to the back makes it about exactly the way I like it.. I do wish my whole stand was raised up about 4 inch or so more.. My stool doesn't go real low.. I suppose I could get a new stool or build a platform.. LOL..

Never heard of the power control module.. Is there a different name to them? I search google for craftsman power control module and a lawn mower part come up, LOL I'd be interested in getting one.. but have no idea what to search for or even what it is.

I've never heard of Anatoly until this topic.. Have not been into the FB groups much until recently.. Prayers to all that are involved in that area..

I don't think the MetroVac 5000 that Seyco sells as their Scroll Saw Dust Vac is really designed to turn on and off with a foot switch either but I've had this for two years now and run 400 hours on my saw.. still working very well.. I will note that.. while the dust bag doesn't really "fill up" since it has a dust deputy in the seyco kit.. The bag does get some really fine dust in it and really restricts the air flow.. I can tell by sound of the Vac motor that it's working harder by it being a bit louder.. I now take a air hose outside and blow the dust out of the bag every week or so and can surely notice a difference in performance and sound.. I guess my point is.. Is it possible that rather than the turning on / off with the foot switch that it could be clogged filter / air flow.. maybe a combo of that and turning on / off? If the air flow is blocked even a little on my vac system the vac body gets hotter.. in my system the air flow goes across the motor to "cool" the motor.. I also from time to time take the bag out and blow air with my air hose through the inside of the vac.. I notice sometimes the fine dust even escapes the bag and gets a coating of fine dust on the impeller and motor.. Anyway.. just some thoughts.. I'd certainly go nuts if the vac was on the whole time.. plus.. seems like it'd get hot.. don't seem like to me they're designed to run continually for hours either.. especially if some dust does escape to the motor.. could be a fire hazard if that gets hot enough with some dust on it.. Why I blow the dust out of mine periodically..

I had thought about posting about Alex's store and supporting him yesterday while we was gone to visit my daughter.. Here is a link to his etsy shop. Not sure if this is what Melanie was asking if we knew of his site or if she was saying something about the posting on FB.. Anyway here is his etsy shop link. https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA?ref=usf_2020

I bought a brand new one back in 2007.. had it just long enough to plug it in and turn it on. Vibrated so bad and was noisy.. variable speed wouldn't work so I returned it, came home and ordered a refurbished Dremel 1800 with the sander on the side.. The Dremel was a pile of junk.. I probably should have exchanged the Craftsman for a different one and gave it another chance..

The people on the live YouTube channel said you must sand to a nice smooth surface and remove all the dust with air hose etc. for best results.. I do that anyway so I have less sanding of fragile projects when cutting is done so that's not an issue for me..

I was watching youtube video the other day and they was showing some scroll sawing tips etc.. They said they use glad press-n-seal instead of shelf liner.. I don't have any or I'd try it but thought I'd share it here and maybe someone will have some on hand and try it. I'll pick some up maybe in a few weeks when we hit the grocery store again. If it works well then it's a lot cheaper alternative to shelf liner because it comes 12" wide and 140ft long.. The shelf liner is only 36ft long at cost more per roll.. Just thought I'd put it out there maybe someone already doing this on here or maybe someone has it in the kitchen and don't mind giving it a try..

Yep, I agree with Ray.. LOL.. That was the second thing I took off the DW I had when I first got it.. first thing was the hold down foot.. thought I could work with that guard on there but kept getting in my way so like before the first project was completed I had to remove it, LOL

Well, I must have missed that part but since you said it Ray, I have to agree.. while I try not to mention others mechanical abilities or even the tools they have and try to use. It does make one realize why there are restocking fees applied on returns for some companies. I worked in several areas of the automotive repair field from Mechanic to Auto Body Collision repair.. Every time I think I've seen it all someone comes in and never seizes to amaze me.. There are a lot of folks that should never own a welder or a few hand tools.. I've seen where a guy lost the bolts to his brake caliper so he welded it on then brought it in to us when the seals on the caliper was melted and didn't have brakes, LOL Thing is.. the brand new brake caliper he bought the day before was junk according to him then expected us to replace it free.. It wasn't because it was welded on as he claims it didn't get hot enough to melt those seals.. LOL Okay..It probably could be welded on without too much heat if he really knew how to weld.. but there was enough weld on it to dang near build another car, LOL That all being said, in most cases we all start somewhere so I don't pick on people for trying.. at least they try so I give credit to that.. we all fail at things but the only time we really fail is when we don't learn from it and get back up and try again..

Someone here on the forums bought one a while ago, they said it was a decent saw but he was using it for thick wood and mentioned the motor seem to bog down..

Maybe the bearings are worn more on one side of them more than the other side so when you pull the tension lever it's putting an angle from that slop? The Pegas chucks mount out farther and a little slop closer to the bearing isn't much.. but putting that longer pin in and mounting the chuck farther from the bearing would have more angle than close to the bearing I think.. I don't know.. I just have a hard time believing it's not something with the saw considering the issues at hand.. Like I said I could be wrong and maybe the chucks are faulty, things do happen to every company.. I suppose it's how the company responds to a situation is more important than the fact of them having a faulty part.. But the real questions I have is.. Is the part really faulty or is it that worn out saw? I mean.. they are not miracle chucks to renew a whole saw..

So it's Pegas issue and not that they are being installed on a worn out saw? I don't have a Delta and never installed a set of these chucks on any Delta or DW saw.. I do have these and installed them on my Excalibur.. and in my kit they supplied new bearing sleeves for the front portion of the saw as it needed longer pins for the wider more solid chucks.. Could be the fact that you have worn bearings.. and installing the new sleeves into the worn bearings quiets the saw down but being the new sleeves aren't worn the same as the bearing it's throwing off your saws blade angle.. and that sleeve can get settled into a permanent spot because the the funky worn bearing.. When taking down a car engine they always recommend replacing the parts from which they came from if reusing them other wise replace all of them right down to the bolts in the same hole from where they came from.. There is a reason for that. It don't take much to be off in one spot to throw something way off in another spot.. I'll go on a limb and say it's the saw issue and not the blade chuck issue for this reason.. You already had issues with noise.. There are way too many rave reviews of these chucks in my opinion to be the chuck issue.. I have heard of "some" issues with these chucks besides you.. but really only about 3-4 others.. and just like you.. they was going on a old saw that was probably pretty well worn.. I'm not saying I'm right and you're wrong as I have no idea since I'm not there working on it.. and seeing what wear the old sleeves have and what the saw is doing wrong / right.. BUT.. I have been reading about your saw sounding loud and maybe worn.. I also know you had it apart.. I wasn't there to see how tight you put things back together etc.. Old bearings like to have the same inch pounds or foot pounds of torque applied to them that they had or they'll be noisy wear out faster etc.. I never understood those that take these apart and only replace half of the parts in them.. Unless they are precisely measuring the bearings and sleeves to see that they are within a tolerance the new tighter bearings & sleeves will make the older slightly sloppy bearings and sleeves hammer themselves into destruction faster.. then they'll be pulling it apart again in short order to replace those.. I stand by my word that it's faulty equipment and not faulty blade chucks.. I might be wrong.. but I'm just not buying it knowing the history of the saw with having issues before these was installed.. and knowing the quality of the chucks I received and the many more rave reviews for these Pegas parts.. saws, blades and all.. It's a saw issue I think..