kmmcrafts

I had thought about posting about Alex's store and supporting him yesterday while we was gone to visit my daughter.. Here is a link to his etsy shop. Not sure if this is what Melanie was asking if we knew of his site or if she was saying something about the posting on FB.. Anyway here is his etsy shop link. https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA?ref=usf_2020

I bought a brand new one back in 2007.. had it just long enough to plug it in and turn it on. Vibrated so bad and was noisy.. variable speed wouldn't work so I returned it, came home and ordered a refurbished Dremel 1800 with the sander on the side.. The Dremel was a pile of junk.. I probably should have exchanged the Craftsman for a different one and gave it another chance..

The people on the live YouTube channel said you must sand to a nice smooth surface and remove all the dust with air hose etc. for best results.. I do that anyway so I have less sanding of fragile projects when cutting is done so that's not an issue for me..

I was watching youtube video the other day and they was showing some scroll sawing tips etc.. They said they use glad press-n-seal instead of shelf liner.. I don't have any or I'd try it but thought I'd share it here and maybe someone will have some on hand and try it. I'll pick some up maybe in a few weeks when we hit the grocery store again. If it works well then it's a lot cheaper alternative to shelf liner because it comes 12" wide and 140ft long.. The shelf liner is only 36ft long at cost more per roll.. Just thought I'd put it out there maybe someone already doing this on here or maybe someone has it in the kitchen and don't mind giving it a try..

Yep, I agree with Ray.. LOL.. That was the second thing I took off the DW I had when I first got it.. first thing was the hold down foot.. thought I could work with that guard on there but kept getting in my way so like before the first project was completed I had to remove it, LOL

Well, I must have missed that part but since you said it Ray, I have to agree.. while I try not to mention others mechanical abilities or even the tools they have and try to use. It does make one realize why there are restocking fees applied on returns for some companies. I worked in several areas of the automotive repair field from Mechanic to Auto Body Collision repair.. Every time I think I've seen it all someone comes in and never seizes to amaze me.. There are a lot of folks that should never own a welder or a few hand tools.. I've seen where a guy lost the bolts to his brake caliper so he welded it on then brought it in to us when the seals on the caliper was melted and didn't have brakes, LOL Thing is.. the brand new brake caliper he bought the day before was junk according to him then expected us to replace it free.. It wasn't because it was welded on as he claims it didn't get hot enough to melt those seals.. LOL Okay..It probably could be welded on without too much heat if he really knew how to weld.. but there was enough weld on it to dang near build another car, LOL That all being said, in most cases we all start somewhere so I don't pick on people for trying.. at least they try so I give credit to that.. we all fail at things but the only time we really fail is when we don't learn from it and get back up and try again..

Someone here on the forums bought one a while ago, they said it was a decent saw but he was using it for thick wood and mentioned the motor seem to bog down..

Maybe the bearings are worn more on one side of them more than the other side so when you pull the tension lever it's putting an angle from that slop? The Pegas chucks mount out farther and a little slop closer to the bearing isn't much.. but putting that longer pin in and mounting the chuck farther from the bearing would have more angle than close to the bearing I think.. I don't know.. I just have a hard time believing it's not something with the saw considering the issues at hand.. Like I said I could be wrong and maybe the chucks are faulty, things do happen to every company.. I suppose it's how the company responds to a situation is more important than the fact of them having a faulty part.. But the real questions I have is.. Is the part really faulty or is it that worn out saw? I mean.. they are not miracle chucks to renew a whole saw..

So it's Pegas issue and not that they are being installed on a worn out saw? I don't have a Delta and never installed a set of these chucks on any Delta or DW saw.. I do have these and installed them on my Excalibur.. and in my kit they supplied new bearing sleeves for the front portion of the saw as it needed longer pins for the wider more solid chucks.. Could be the fact that you have worn bearings.. and installing the new sleeves into the worn bearings quiets the saw down but being the new sleeves aren't worn the same as the bearing it's throwing off your saws blade angle.. and that sleeve can get settled into a permanent spot because the the funky worn bearing.. When taking down a car engine they always recommend replacing the parts from which they came from if reusing them other wise replace all of them right down to the bolts in the same hole from where they came from.. There is a reason for that. It don't take much to be off in one spot to throw something way off in another spot.. I'll go on a limb and say it's the saw issue and not the blade chuck issue for this reason.. You already had issues with noise.. There are way too many rave reviews of these chucks in my opinion to be the chuck issue.. I have heard of "some" issues with these chucks besides you.. but really only about 3-4 others.. and just like you.. they was going on a old saw that was probably pretty well worn.. I'm not saying I'm right and you're wrong as I have no idea since I'm not there working on it.. and seeing what wear the old sleeves have and what the saw is doing wrong / right.. BUT.. I have been reading about your saw sounding loud and maybe worn.. I also know you had it apart.. I wasn't there to see how tight you put things back together etc.. Old bearings like to have the same inch pounds or foot pounds of torque applied to them that they had or they'll be noisy wear out faster etc.. I never understood those that take these apart and only replace half of the parts in them.. Unless they are precisely measuring the bearings and sleeves to see that they are within a tolerance the new tighter bearings & sleeves will make the older slightly sloppy bearings and sleeves hammer themselves into destruction faster.. then they'll be pulling it apart again in short order to replace those.. I stand by my word that it's faulty equipment and not faulty blade chucks.. I might be wrong.. but I'm just not buying it knowing the history of the saw with having issues before these was installed.. and knowing the quality of the chucks I received and the many more rave reviews for these Pegas parts.. saws, blades and all.. It's a saw issue I think..

The EX saws you see being sold now are NOT the same EX saw that used to be made.. Most of what you see on Amazon and eBay are actually refurbished China made knockoffs of the original one. China reverse engineered the old EX and did a pretty poor job of it.. While they look the same they are not.. while a lot of the parts are interchangeable not all of them are.. so even sourcing parts would be tough for the ones that are not the same. I have one of those cheaper saws.. Nothing but issues with it and finally got it working decent after throwing alot of "real " EX parts into the saw.. Basically the shell / frame is the only thing I didn't replace, LOL..

Looks like a wall mount dust collector.. The bag is white and hard to see since the background wall is white too.. but if you look at the hose going to the metal can and another hose going off that to where ever the sawdust is being collected.. Only reason I know this is I've been looking at them, LOL.. I have the big floor model but.. I could free up floor space for the Pegas saw if I also get a wall mount collector,

Cherry is my favorite wood to work with... Poplar is easy to work with but I'm not a huge fan of the various colors it makes once dipped.. BUT... it is the cheaper easier to work with so I've been using it quite a lot the last couple years..

Right, I've paid upwards of $1200 for a pint of paint in the past for custom work I used to do and that was some years back.. Gotta be good at knowing how much you need to mix for the job as wasting a once get's pretty when you have a ounce leftover from job.. Once the catalyst is in it it's only good for a few hours.. I did the body shop gig for a few years.. I've had some projects that was big enough that I couldn't sit at the saw.. that swing around can get you in the gut.. and I don't even have a bigger gut.. so.. yeah my hats off to those that do those bigger projects.. I can do them.. but I don't like doing them, I'm lazy and like a sit down job, I sell a few of these guitars ( Steve Good Pattern) every couple months I have to stack cut it 3 at a time to replenish my inventory.. I think it's only about 16" or maybe it's 18" long.. But anyway, I sit but I have to scoot my stool back and lean forward to see the saw line etc.. That's about the biggest project I want to make.. sometimes dread making it.. Good seller though so... LOL

They don't have cool colors though, Maybe I can paint my EX-21 with the leftover candy paints from a custom flames paint job I did on a Harley last summer.. Make it a 1 of a kind rare EX-21 China version.. Maybe someone would trade for a Pegas then, LOL Edit: Never mind.. that paint cost more than a new Pegas 30 inch so not a good idea, LOL

Me too.. do you know if Pegas actually makes a 16" ?

When I was doing portrait work i liked keeping count or close count of the entry holes.. The look on peoples faces when you know how many holes you drilled and cut.. Some folks that give them some perspective as many times they'll say.. Wow! that must have taken a long time.. . And the way I did it was to drill 10 - 20 holes at a time and write a tally mark on my pattern then when done I can add up the marks.. Standing at the drill press to drill them all at once isn't fun so doing X amount helps break up the work.. plus it keeps me from sitting at the saw for too long as I have to get up to make more holes, LOL

Those came out nice!! Like the camper, I gotta do that one, LOL.. So many to do and so little time though, LOL

I sell clock inserts.. only Gold with white face.. and only in the 37mm (1-7/16 ) and the same thing in 50mm ( 2" ).. I'm sold out on 2" ones at the moment and just got a order for the smaller ones but have not put them up on my website yet.. I have a order in for the 50mm but won't receive them until around April.. I buy factory direct.. all metal cases with rubber compression ring.. Not the cheap China motor you get with most other places.. I custom order mine with the Seyco watch motors.. I've been selling the 50mm for $8 each. and the 37mm for $7. Shipping is based on zip code and I usually do the cheaper first class mail if I can but you have option to upgrade to priority as well.. So long as you're in the States.. I do ship worldwide so if it's not working let me know.. sometimes the shipping thing messes up according to some customers but I haven't found anything wrong on my website end so not sure if it's shopper or website, LOL Most times shipping in the US is $5 first class or like $8.50.. but again.. will depend on where you are and the weight / size / how many you order etc.

Just seen Bearwood posted on FB that Pegas has a 30" saw in the works.. Hmm.. Heck, I only need the 21 and honestly wouldn't mind a 16".. Guess I don't do many large projects anymore.. Keeping my eye out for used 21"s and found one recently that I'm watching.. hoping it don't sell so I can make a offer.. With the 30 coming out maybe someone wants to upgrade to the bigger one and sell me the old one, LOL https://www.bearwood.com/product7978.html

Yeah that's the dremel attachment thing I linked above that Les used.. though I think he bought the cheaper fixed base router base instead of the plunge router one that I linked to above.. I bookmarked that topic because I like that metal plunge base.. Maybe should buy it incase they quite making them.. Though I'm sure I could make one fairly easy as well.. Time isn't on my side for puttering around like that though at least at the moment..

I seen where someone mounted this upside down overhead of a workbench.. then it wasn't awkward to try to hold it etc.. and infinite throat capacity..

Lacquer and oil base do not go well together.. You may get lucky and have it come out nice in the beginning but give it 2-5 years and it'll be flaking off.. I like to dip projects in Danish oil even if i plan to top coat.. why? because some timbers soak up a lot of spray clear ( poly ) and the Danish oil is cheap when comparing volume to the price of a spray can. I have spray equipment.. but I just don't do enough top coat finishing to justify the time in cleaning up spray equipment etc.. Anyway, dipping first and then top coating you can usually spray just a couple light topcoats rather than having the topcoat soak in and disappear into the grain.. I use both oil and water base poly.. typically use the water base over a dipped piece because it's already had the grain pop effect from dipping and it dries within 20 -30 minutes..

Probably muck up the pattern.. also might light a fire easier, LOL.. Don't know, I've read where others say their dremel has plenty of power.. so it maybe just my elcheapo WEN knock off dremel is too under powered. There is not too many larger projects these days that I really need to use it so not sure if it's worth investing into one of these nicer set-ups.. I don't really use a dremel so buying a higher end more $$ motor and that better made plunge set up get's a lot of money invested into it.. that's half way there to a much better bigger real drill press that could be used for a lot more things..

The thing I don't like about the Seyco is if the motor goes bad it appears to me you through it out and buy another one.. I'm just worried at my level of scrolling and primarily drilling through thicker hardwood I might be over working that little thing... The dremel I have is not a actual dremel it's a WEN knock off that was really cheap.. Maybe why it's so under powered? I mean it does do the job but like I said.. You got to run the speed up pretty high to get the torque to drill through 3/4" hardwood.. then it smoking / burning through rather than drilling. LOL The dremel / WEN motor has held up good for me but the plastic plunge part has gotten really sloppy and it got to a point where it's quite difficult to drill straight holes.. so i no longer use it other than on super large projects that my drill press can't get to the center. I may try a higher end dremel.. If it works with more torque then I'll spurge and buy a "quality metal" plunge base.. Not cheap but these things you could run over with the car and have it still be more accurate than the plastic garbage.. https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-supplies/types-of-tools/routers-and-bits/routers/stewmac-plunge-router-base/

Just curious how does it do for power in thicker stock? I've been eyeing that seyco drill for a few years and have a couple pennies saved up for a new toy, LOL..