kmmcrafts

Well, I have 5 saws and might be making an offer on a Hegner soon, LOL.. By the way.. I have a third and fourth saw for you if you should be interested in more saws... top of the line Hawks.. and a Excalibur could be yours and I'm willing to deal, Seriously I have 2 Hawks I'd like to move out of my shop and into someone else's shop.. if you all know anyone in or close to MI.

Well there is some said test I've seen on youtube.. while his test may not have been super sophisticated it was more sophisticated than mine... but my experience is.. I've almost always used a box fan since almost the day I started scrolling.. I added the 3 speed Grizzly ceiling hanging unit only a few years ago.. It does help.. but not perfect so I turn it on when I go to the shop.. Being my box fan broke I can certainly see all the dust that settled overnight.. that didn't happen before the box fan quit.. even though I'm still running the Grizzly.. I do not do any mounting of the filter to the fan as it stays in place by the vacuum of the fan moving the air.. each night when shutting the shop down I shut the fan off.. take the filter outside and tap it on a light poll I have in the yard, I then take it back in the shop and lean it on the stand my fan sits on so it's all ready for the next day.. I seen in Pauls photo that he had a stretchy cord holding his in place. There is a ( or used to be ) bracket you could buy that screwed to the back of the fan to allow a slot to side the filter down into so it'd stay..

Dan gave some good sound advice.. It's not about going fast.. it's about quality saw time and a quality product at the finish line.. LOL Way too many things go into the speed factor to make it a apples to apples comparison, for instance blade types, quality user friendly saw, experience and complexity of the design being cut.. and the list goes on.. As Dan said.. stack cutting you make more pieces at one time cutting.. I stack cut 4 - 6 pieces of 1/8" and typically cut 3-4 stacks per hour..

I actually love the look of oak and also don't mind sawing it.. It's that my lack of knowledge for the finishing of oak.. well not just lack of knowledge but rather not really "wanting to" take the time needed to do a nice finish.. Most my projects are just dipped in a oil finish ( typically Danish oil but have and do use other oils time to time) and with the open grain of oak.. it can really soak up a lot.. wiping off excess works but it'll sometimes bleed more out again before it completely dries.. the portion that bleeds out has poly in it and will dry spots of poly all over the project not leaving a natural wood look.. I'd be okay if it was consistent but it many times is just a few spots here and there.. which looks like you put droplets of clear coat on it or spilled it onto it.. Then it requires me to sand it and top coat to fix the problems.. I may have found a solution for this though.. as I never knew there was different viscosity Danish oils out there.. The one I had been using was a slower drying one.. but I recently bought a faster dry one.. maybe it'll dry before it seeps back out of the grain.. Haven't tried the new stuff on oak yet.. Anyway as far as cutting oak.. I have no issues and don't mind working with it.. and so far never encountered a lumber from within the states that gave me much of any cutting issues.. Those exotic woods though... some of them cut like sawing a rock.. Brazilian Cherry ( Bubinga if I remember the name correct ), purple heart, and zebra wood all come to mind, lol Anyway your project is looking very nice.. I've wanted to try bowls one day that just cut out the rings.. They look like they'd take a lot of lumber but just keep cutting the same board over and over much like you did here making them larger as you go.. not much wood used but makes a very nice piece..

Right! and that's the only time I do use Oak.. LOL when it's requested..

Looking good Ray! But as Paul said.. looks like a lot of work.. That oak is a material that I don't mind cutting.. but I hate finishing.. I love working with cherry actually I like most hardwoods but oak is my least favorite..

I have the same Grizzly.. that other one looks interesting.. I find the box fan does way more than the Grizzly but maybe because the box fan sits closer to where it's needed while the grizzly just hangs around from the ceiling.. I never liked using the N95..but I do use the Elipse mask. https://www.gvs.com/en/catalog/elipse-p100-niosh-respirator

Doesn't matter if I change the color anymore... dummy me bought a black and white laser printer.. What was I thinking, LOL I import patterns into inkscape and use the fill and stroke function to change the colors..

Open the valve to see if it smells? Obviously outside and away from anything that could spark.

That'll be nice.. I look forward to seeing the finished piece.

Do you happen to have smaller blades? I fined some cases a smaller blade will cut a bit faster and last longer.. Thanks for updating this.. I have yet to try these on solid wood..

I'm not certain how much they was charging, IF I was to make one and carved it out like these are.. I'd probably consider it a safer idea to buy a new tank that had never had LP in it yet.. maybe they are new tanks that they carve.. Personally I'd rather just "paint" old tanks like that and use the glow-in-dark paints or reflective paints or vinyl wrap etc.. Just don't do it with gas in them as I believe they legally have to be white with the stickers showing? If it's legal to have other colors then you could paint them.. and storage could be on your gas grille LOL..

Totally agree.. When I first got the hanging filter I could tell right away that it's not something that'll do great for the whole shop.. I have a big dust collector but it's only hooked up to my planner but that thing is more of a chip collector than fine dust.. Cheap box fan and filter set up has been the most effective and cheapest part of dust collecting. I'm going to get two fans to run.. I have a sanding station that is at the other end of the shop.. I got tired of moving the fan.. The hanging filter system does still get quite a lot of stuff in the filter.. but probably from my sanding station when I'm too lazy to move the fan.. just to sand something small real quick. I have always wanted to set up collection right at the saw.. and I bought a system to build with a cheap metro vac and dust separator thing.. I still haven't built it.. in part because I also bought a Seyco scroll saw dust vac.. basically what I bought to build at double to cost, LOL Anyway since the Seyco was just plug and play I did set that up to my Excalibur... but while not loud.. it's not quiet either and I like to listen to the radio while scrolling.. only time I hear the radio is in between cuts unless I blast the radio so the neighbors can also listen, LOL.. I'm not playing free music for them.. If I have to pay for the cd then I'm not playing it for free to them, .. they can buy their own cd

I might try one of these.. I need a 20 x 20 butthey have them for around $18.. Buying the better furnace filters for allergies cost close to the same.. and they clog up fast.. I do use them for 6 - 12 months.. I just tap the loose dust off and once in a while take it outside with the air hose and blow them out good.. They start falling apart after 6-8 months but I push them out to about a year if I can.. But the metal one should last a very long time if I could wash it out with a hose.. I wonder how well they filter..in comparison to the furnace ones.. It says for use with dust etc.. Hmmm.. Anyone have experience with them? I might have to be the try..

These came across on FB Marketplace and I thought they was too neat to not share with others.. They carved out old LP grill tanks for Halloween decorations.. I can't remember the price now I'm thinking they were selling for $35..

Some years back I thought I run across a metal type filter that could be washed off with a water hose etc. Anyone seen that or using one? My box fan quit working after 12 years.. they just don't make them like they used to.. most times I forgot to turn it off and I'd go to the shop the next day and not even need to turn it back on.. Some dust escapes the filter and covers the blade, motor etc.. used a air hose over the years to blow the dust off the blade etc. and blow it directly into the motor for more power.. but never helped. Honestly amazed that that cheap Lasco fan made it more than a year.. Must have been a bad day because I normally try repairing things.. not this time.. as I heard the garbage truck down the road at the neighbors I hurried out the shop ran out there so I could throw that thing in the truck myself... boy that felt good.. Now searching for a new one and WOW.. prices have doubled.. thinking now I'm mad because I tossed it out.. I'm almost 100% sure it was just the 3 speed switch.. it had been turning hard for maybe 5 years, motor always ran good and smooth.. most of the fans in the house the switch works but to motor makes a buzzing sound.. couple drops of oil and it repairs it for a couple years until the same thing... that shop fan never once did that.. maybe all that sawdust helped, LOL.. Looking online I found they sell replacement switches for just a couple bucks.. but that doesn't do me anything now that I tossed it in the garbage truck.. Anyway, I guess I need to shop for a new fan, and was wondering about those metal mesh filters.. I have the air filtration system that hangs from the ceiling.. That thing doesn't get even half the fine dust floating around.. Sure miss that fan and I never realized how much that thing filtered out until it was gone for the last couple weeks the shop has had a dust cloud.. Thinking I'm going to get two of the fans.. What filters you all run since I need those too.

I kinda imagined O/P found us doing a google search.. I don't think Travis designed this site to be for only educated questions and discussions either.. I kinda been biting my tongue on that reply of his.. as the written word has no expression and can be read in many different ways.. I don't think he meant it as we are reading it.. but you really do have to be careful how you write things to get them across in the way that you intended. The way it's read by you and I is very demeaning not only to the new person but also Travis too.. as this is the whole reason Travis puts in all his efforts to keep this site up and going smoothly is to help teach others and bring together a online community.. Not to tell them to google and youtube to learn before coming here to ask a question.

That turned out nice!! what finish did you choose?

I think any oil will be flammable.. heck.. last I knew so was wood.. cutting board oil is nothing more than food grade mineral oil and doesn't ever really dry. Paint and other finishes are flammable too before they dry as well. The mineral spirits will evaporate I believe and just leave the linsed oil.. There is a Watco Butcher block oil but it has some sort of varnish or clear coat sealer.. great stuff but I would think the heat might melt that coating on a trivet.. Beeswax will burn as well think candles.. But all of these flammables I would think would be safe for a hot pan.. but might be an issue if you put flame on it.. but that goes for wood material too.. I did a video how to make the cutting board oil a few years back.. you can view it here. https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/511661656292/how-to-make-homemade-wood-finish-using

Yeah that's what I was thinking too.. and originally bought for solid wood.. I just so happen to be cutting 150 ornaments for a bulk order and thought I'd try.. The smaller blade worked really well other than lots of fuzzies on the back of the bottom stack.. I intend to try them on solid wood.. might be a long time from now though as I just got another bulk order for another 150 ornaments.. it's plywood season for me probably until the end of the year, LOL Thanks for the tidbit from their site, I didn't see that.. but I did know that a reverse tooth design is best for ply..

I should also mention that there are scroll saw files too.. https://www.pswood.com/scroll-saw-files/ Seems like there are some other brands of scroll saw sanders and files but these are the only two I found.. I don't think many folks buy or use them anymore so maybe the other brands dropped the product. Pretty darn easy to just superglue some strips of sandpaper to a old saw blade.. or piece of scrap wood that can fit into the blade holder of the saw..

That info actually helps a lot!!.. You can buy or make scroll saw sanders.. I find a lot of beginners ask about sanding inside the cutouts.. I did this myself when first starting out.. The sanders you buy https://www.americanwoodcrafterssupply.com/catalog/sanding-supplies/scroll-sanders-by-olson/ don't always fit every brand of scroll saw.. and sometimes the big clunky plastic ends are too big to fit through the cutout.. Many folks use a old saw blade and glue pieces of sand paper to the blade.. popsicle sticks work well as does fingernail files.. I think there is even some sort of small jewelers file set that some folks use... Once you get some saw time and learn different blades and uses for said blades you'll likely ditch the whole sanding the cutouts.. many times I just use the side of the balde to shave and shape a rough edge.. I hope this helps you find what you need to do the sanding you need / want. or at least maybe gave you an idea of some things to try..

Soo, I finally open up the mailer to check out the blades this morning. They come with plastic storage tubes like many of us buy to store our blades which is nice but also if you use a ton of blades eventually you'll be overloaded with those tubes.. other thing to note was they do not come all bundled / wired together.. maybe the larger quantity ones do I don't know.. Sadly I could use a couple (3) storage tubes to put in the slots on the Excaliburs onboard blade holder holes but these tubes was to large to fit.. First run on the blades today stack cutting 4 1/8" stacks BBply of ornaments. As many of you know the glue in plywood is tough on saw blades.. I normally can cut two sets of ornaments from a Pegas #3 or #5.. but usually toward the end of the second stack the blade is getting quite dull and should be changed.. I usually just push on through but sometimes change it before the second set is complete. Anyway the #2 super sharps are definitely sharp and last longer.. I was able to cut 3 sets of ornaments and possibly could have done slightly more but it definitely was not tracking turns etc. as well nearing the end of the second stack so I really was pushing the blade beyond for the 3rd set.. Longer lasting than the Pegas but maybe only by 10-15%... Cut was nice and smooth along the sides of the cut.. bottom piece not so much.. since there is no reverse teeth there will be much needed sanding of fuzzies.. in most cases with the Pegas blades little to no sanding after the cut due to me normally pre-sanding.. Did a test cut with the #5 cutting same stacked material and not at all impressed.. The #5 seemed to cut slower than a #5 Pegas and was giving me some tare out on the bottom.. I think they would probably work well with solid lumber but just guessing on that as I haven't tried yet.. probably won't be working with any solid lumber for a while as my return customers are starting to order their large quantity ornament orders.. just got a 150 pcs order last night so.. that'll take be about 3 - 3.5 days of cutting BBply, LOL I wouldn't say they are a definite no use blade for my works but for the added price and a cleaner cut from Pegas I'll continue with Pegas...

Yeah they are awesome saws.. I love my Excalibur.. my biggest issue is longevity of the saws.. I've been real close to ordering the better designed Pegas saw.. Might be one in my shop before the end of the year.

Good question and I don't know the answer but in theory the coarser blade has less teeth per inch.. while they are larger and take a bigger bite.. two times as many smaller teeth with smaller bite moves more material faster.. Dull faster maybe because the larger teeth are cutting slower than the several smaller teeth and makes user try to push through the material harder creating more heat.. Also consider that most of the larger / coarser blades also have a wider kerf.. thus the blade has to remove a larger amount of material.. even though its the same distance to cut though a project the larger blade is removing more material than the smaller blade.. Think of the energy used for blade life as in.. example.. Say you have 5 big burly guys to move a log across the field.. they can pick it up a take it for a ways but get tired out quick compared to 20 smaller guys, LOL