kmmcrafts

I use those quite a lot.. I get them at Harbor Freight for like $8-10 each.. They are more of a ball shape than a cone like yours unless you worn yours down like that.. I use it in my drill press though..

Exactly!!! and why I have not put in my 2cents yet.. maybe OP will not come back to respond either.. Also correct blade selection for said project can make the difference of "needing" to sand or not.. Saw dialed in with proper blade alignment also make a world of difference.. I rarely get fuzzies on the back... even with spiral blades.. I pre-sand all my work and rarely have to sand after finishing the project..

Blades showed up today, mail was quick as they were saying Saturday by the tracking number.. Nothing to do with PS Wood since they got them mailed out next day.. Not sure if I'll get a chance to try them until next week or not..

I also had to remove the screws and change up to the other set of holes.. I got frustrated trying to turn the motor with the screw driver.. I keep my table slicker than snot.. I used my mini square at the back side of the blade and turn the motor but my issue is I have my saw raised up in the back and I had a hard time getting the square not to slide around and down to the blade.. SO what I do is.. loosen those screws just barely enough to turn the motor. Turn the saws speed down to the lowest setting.. Run the saw on the slowest speed while turning the motor.. you can clearly see the blade doing the rocking motion.. might help to see it if you have a sheet of paper or something on the other side of the blade to help see it. The blade will kinda be blurred but turning the motor while running you can get it to look less and less or more blurred.. find the spot that looks the least blurred. Probably not the ideal way to get it perfect 90 to the table but it's pretty spot on going at it this way for me..

That's because squaring the blade to the table "starts with" centering the blade in the clamps first.. Or they can be off center but need to be in the same relative spot within the slot it sets in for both upper and lower clamps.. way off will cause issues. If one set screw is off center on one side and the other off on the opposite side you will never get a square blade via the square anyway.. This can also shorten blade life.. as the blade may be rubbing the sides of the board particularly with the bottom clamp as that one is closer, there is a lot of unused blade at the top side.. I had a issue with breaking blades at about the table level.. inspecting a broke blade noticing it was discolored from the heat because of this.. Yet it was cutting square.. at the table level. just going through a crapload of blades as the heat is the blades enemy..

Yeah, it's a set screw or hex key.. whatever you want to call it, but you'll need a very small ( what size? I don't know or remember that good, LOL ) allen wrench or hex wrench. Doubt since this is a very old saw and since it's made in the USA that it'd be a metric one.. should be SAE.. The hex screw isn't very big and it's most likely recessed down in that hole a little.. It'll be on there pretty tight too if like mine was. I had to use a pair of pliers to grip the angled end of my wrench and twist with the pliers to get better leverage.. Also you'll want to soak it in some ( I like to use PB Blaster ) penetrating oil.. You'll probably need a pair of pliers once you get the set screw out.. hold the cam with the pliers and try freeing up the lever.. you'll have to work it back and fourth several times probably, then eventually you'll be able to pull the lever out while working it back and fourth.. IF they tell you the kit will work for your saw.. which I'm 99% sure it will.. and you have trouble with that set screw.. You could drill it out since you get a new cam and screw etc with the kit.. I think it even comes with a new lever maybe.. so worst case grind it away, LOL.. Hopefully you'll be able to get it to break loose though.. Gotta remember.. it's probably been on there for many years.. maybe since new..

Just buy the bandsaw.. you know you want it anyway, .. Tax write off for the business too..

Think the name is Carter?

That's interesting Ray, All the postings on here and FB etc. of those that use them or have tried them say they love the blades but also some say the high price deters them from using them as they aren't that much better than the Pegas.. I guess I'll see what my thoughts are once they show up.. Got an email this morning that they shipped out today via First Class Mail.. Showing arrival on Saturday..

I probably should do some videos on saw repairs for these.. IF I was running their business, I'd for sure have plenty of how to videos for using the saw, tuning the saw, and saw repairs.. These videos can really promote your business.. I have not seen any saw manufacture go very in depth with these things.. some will show the saws features etc.. but that's about it..

I wish I could remember how this is done for sure.. but I think you have to push the roll pin out first.. then I think there is a set screw that holds the "cam portion" to the lever as they are separate pieces and something has to hold the cam in place.. But I think once the roll pin is out and you take the front portion off the upper arm.. I think the cam will have a set screw to take loose and then the lever would come out. When I go back out to the shop later I'll see if I kept my old parts and look them over to be sure that is how it was assembled. When I got my kit Bushton did send me instruction sheet with it.. I hope they still do this as that would be helpful for you. I doubt I still have the sheet.. If I do I'd probably never find it anyway, LOL

Olsen make the precision ground blades in their PGT series blades.. they are awesome blades but have a draw back for me.. one being the smallest size is a #5 and second is the blade ends are larger than the rest of the blade so you have to have a pretty good size hole to drill which is fine on some projects but useless if doing veining type stuff.. I'm curious what I will get with these super sharps..

Yeah they are limited on sizes and styles.. nothing in a spiral yet that I seen.. I think I remember hearing the number 2 being like the number 3 in most blades.. I don't know for sure.. I ordered the number 2 and 5.. I mostly use number 3's and occasionally 5's in both Pegas MGT and FD-UR.. only spiral I use is a 2/0 FD - NS.. or comparable Olsen.. I find the Pegas spirals to be too brittle or ? and I seem to break many more of them than the others...

Yeah that blade has to be spot on square to the table or you'll have issues.. I have a small square but I like to use a 1- 1/2 in tall block of scrap wood.. I saw into it just enough to get the full blade in past the edge on both upper and lower part of the block. Then spin the block around to the back of the blade.. it should slide right into the slot you just cut.. write the number blade on the block.. keep it handy as a reference.. it's quick and easy way to check before starting a project or even in the middle of a project.. If it's not 100% square it won't easily fit in that slot..

I finally decided to order some of those expensive blades.. I've been going to try them now for 2-3 years.. I've heard a lot of folks say they're awesome blades.. some say they're good but not so good as to pay the high price for them.. I guess I'll have to post my experience not only with the blades but also for my experience with P.S. Wood.. though I've ordered bandsaw blades and a few other things from them with good experience..

Yes, just press out the roll pin and take the old parts off and reverse the procedure to install the new kit. They have been pretty good about putting on the webstore that things are out of stock.. and when they say they are out of stock they typically disable the add to cart button.. This is the kit you need and it's not showing out of stock.. https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/upper-blade-holder-bracket-conversion-kit/ I would still get confirmation from them to be sure it'll work on your saw. I'm pretty sure your saw is quite a lot older than my 220VS is.. I did the update 3-4 years ago but back then I was pretty sure she told me it'd work on any of the saws.. One thing you can do and they are the ones that told me this.. you can get by using the saw for a while by using a rubber band and wrap it around the upper arm to " hold " the tension lever in the tensioned position. When I bought my 220VS the previous owner had a piece of wire wrapped around it to hold it down, LOL.. I used it this way for nearly a year before ordering the update kit.

Actually I think the "super sharps " blades from P.S. Woods is made in the USA and their brand scroll saws are also USA made.. LOL I have not tried those super sharp blades yet.. Been wanting to give them a try.. I've heard they are awesome blades.. BUT.. pricey too, LOL

Olsen blades aren't too bad.. I started out sawing using them.. and still do for some projects.. Mainly spirals and the Mach speed..

Since I don't know the condition of the saw etc.. or if you even like it.. but I personally think it's probably just the tension cam that has went bad.. I'd think the saw would be worth $50 for the updated tension update kit. It's quite simple to change. I don't think the stand is wide enough to mount the Pegas directly to it.. if you go that route.. just a FYI.. The Pegas has sort of a wide foot print for the mounting holes. I almost ordered a new Pegas a few days ago as woodcraft had the "old price" and I had a coupon code that would have made the total with shipping less than $900 and that's less than the new price.. as the new price is $940 + tax and shipping.. I could have got it for $880 shipped.. I pondered too long and went back 2-3 days later and they updated to the new price.. now well over $1100 shipped.. Oh well.. Their prices are flirting with with those prices of the new Hawk and Hegners.. I just don't see the longevity of these parallel link arm style saws being all that great.. I doubt you'll see many used 30 -40 year old Pegas saws still floating around the classified ads like you see Hawk and Hegners.. Not saying they are not a good saw.. as they are.. but that said.. priced close to those saws that are built and proven to last 30 - 40 years.. with only a couple hundred more you could buy a lifetime saw with little to no breakdowns.. or better yet.. buy a slightly used and save a ton of money.. a lot of Hawk and Hegners out there for half the price of the new Pegas and still out live the new Pegas.. Not sure what part of west MI you're from ( I'm also west MI ) but there is a decent newer style Hegner on Craiglist for $275.. no pictures this time he listed it but it was on a couple month back with pictures.. It's in Lansing.. might be worth looking at.. or get that nice new shiny Pegas that you want.. LOL just know there are lots of cheaper options..

I suppose that is up to you if you wanted to do that, I inquired about doing the same thing to my 1993 220VS.. I don't remember now what the cost was but it wasn't a cheap repair.. They may not even offer the service anymore now.. I know they are doing less and less of supporting these old old saws.. I want to say it was around $300 to machine the arm and the cost of the insert and new wedge etc.. and shipping it back etc.. I decided against doing it.. My thought was to part out the saw or something once it got to that point.. that saw was used hard and not real well taken care of when I bought it..had many hours of use.. I gave $100 for it and basically rebuilt it.. That arm isn't worn out now so I doubt I'll wear it out myself since it's more of a back-up saw.. Actually have it for sale on the FB marketplace as I never use it anymore since I bought the new Hawk a couple years ago. The biggest wear part on these saws in my opinion is the cam and the little set screw, so long as you keep them oiled up as suggested in the manual

Given the serial number you shown is a very low number and you have the one with the M.. at one time I knew what that M stood for but have forgotten now, LOL Anyway I'm guessing you have a mid - late 80's saw.. I could be wrong but it's certainly not from the late 90's. Guessing you have the round lower blade clamp / holder.. Also guessing you have the old style tension cam that doesn't have the adjustable set screw on the bottom of the lever area. The wedge at the back wouldn't have the insert ( which you already confirmed that ). I forgot I did a short video clip to help out another Hawk owner on how to adjust that set screw so here is a link to my video I put on youtube a year or so ago.. In the video notice how the lever gets resistance before it reaches the arm.. that helps "lock" the lever in place.. IF your saw was upgraded to the newer style it would have the set screw in it and just needs adjusted.. IF no set screw and your tension lever just flops freely all the way down to the arm then you need to replace the cam.. I'd recommend upgrading to the new style so you can adjust it. Anyway here is the video link. I'm going to edit this reply shortly with some pictures of the set screw and the updated kit pictures on my saw etc. This photo is of the set screw.. notice the screw is right in line of the tension lever.. this is the bottom of the upper arm.. This is a photo of the updated cam kit with the new style removable blade clamp / holder. This is installed on my 1993 220VS.. This is a photo of the lever on the 220VS with the updated kit and properly adjusted.. the lever stops right here and then you push it down to the arm to "lock" it. This is a photo of the back wedge on the 220VS.. Note the wedge rides right on the arm itself.. This is the wedge on my BM 226VS.. Note the wedge rides on the round insert that when worn can be easily replaced.. rather than having to send in the arm and have it machined. This is the 226VS Ultra front blade holder.. it is a 1998 saw and has the older style upper cam and clamp.. however they did add the replaceable cam and set screw to this but once this wears out I'll upgrade to the new one like I did on the 220VS. Just another angle of the 226VS clamp

Three things affect the tension and can cause the front cam lever to not hold in the tensioned position. The wedge shaped thing at the back of the saw on the upper arm.. If the edge of the wedge gets rounded over the tension usually will hold until you turn the saw on and it gets to speed sometimes it'll pop the lever at the front of the saw.. This is usually noticed before it gets to that point though as it'll usually start snapping blades as when that gets rounded over it'll make the blade tension fluctuate as the saw is running. IF the wedge isn't too worn.. you can try to sand it to a point again to get by for a while.. Just place a sandpaper maybe around 220 grit or finer on a flat surface and sand each side of the wedge to get the rounded off part of it back to a point.. It is a fine point too. almost to a sharp edge.. Another issue can be the upper arm where that wedge I previously discussed can also be worn.. depending on age of the saw.. some of them the wedge rides right onto the saws upper arm, while other saws have a round insert that is replaceable.. IF you have the older style you may need to take the arm off and send it to Bushton.. they'll drill it out IF it's not worn so bad and make it so you can put those replaceable inserts in it. NOW for the most likely problem.. There is a cam on the front of the upper arm on the tension lever and those wear out.. Really going to depend on what vintage saw you have.. as there are different styles. The newer styles will have a set screw to adjust the "locking position" on the lever for the cam. It's a very small set screw and hard to see.. but look on the bottom of the upper arm just below where the lever goes into the arm.. there will be a tiny hole there where you can adjust the locking position. This should have some tension on it and not fall freely to the top of the upper arm. Without a blade in the saw move the lever as if you was applying tension to a blade. You should get some resistance in the lever before it reaches all the way to the arm. Properly adjusted it should have some resistance about 1/8" - 1/4 before touching the upper arm. IF you have no adjustment allen screw you'll have to replace the cam assembly.. I suggest getting the upgraded one that has the set screw.. The upgraded kit comes with a whole new front assembly with new style blade clamp etc.. It cost $50 and very well worth it.. I'll see if I can post some pictures a little later today to show the locations of the set screw and the position of the tension lever when it's adjusted correctly. I do have a busy day ahead of me so we'll see if I actually get time to do this, LOL

I'd send an email with the link to the video if you haven't already..

Think your speed controller is gone bad.. Ray probably has one in stock and could probably send one in the mail right away.. Though the mail is being slow as ever lately.. If you have a air compressor you might try blowing some air to see if maybe it just got some dust in it.. Don't blow at high pressure though.. maybe 10 - 20 psi at most.

Looks like a job for the bandsaw to me, LOL.. Or as Jerry said.. cut slightly oversized and sand to the size you need..