kmmcrafts

Congrats, I think you'll love using the saw. Hope to see some of your projects in the future.

Wow those are nice!! Great work!!

I think it looks great!! Thanks for the heads up on the different sizes, I'll probably forget by the time I make one of these. Wanted to do some of these for about 10 years now and still haven't done it. I'm sure I'll forget by the time I get to that end of my list of things to make. This would look great with an inlay.. that's a great idea too. Hope you post more of the things you make. Though.. maybe you have and I missed it since I don't get to this section of the site very often.

I like the idea of being able to use the mason type jars and being able to run the spray and then switch jars and run a few seconds of cleaner through the sprayer.. Dislike the fact that you need to run 40-50psi though.. It's amazing how much not only wasted spray goes into the air but also how much fine dust gets blown around in a room that appears to be dust free.. that is until you start blowing that kind of air pressure.. Love my HVLP spray gun because of the low pressure of about 10 - 20 psi. not even factoring in the fact of less paint material needed to do the job.. Our woodworking finishes are very cheap when you compare them to automotive finishes, some of which run $1000 for a pint size. So the cost savings is crazy in the auto industry to stay away from siphon feed type guns, they're becoming obsolete in the auto industry.. PS. also siphon feed guns have waste that is left in the bottom of the paint can that the siphon straw can't pick up, kinda like trying to suck the last bit of your milkshake or malted. Gravity feed guns spray out down to the last drop left in the can.. Also to mention that when you do get down to the last little bit in the bottom of a siphon feed gun.. they'll spit rather than spray a normal mist of paint.. That all being said, wood finishes are cheap. I like the jar idea and I may get one to mess around with. Hate using my high dollar spray equipment for my woodwork stuff, not because of the woodwork itself but because it's crucial to have them very clean if you ever use it for auto paints again.. These guns are way too pricey to chance ruining a car finish job because you run a oil base solvent through it.. auto paints and oils or any contaminants do not go well together at all and the price of not only the paints.. but all the prep work that goes into painting a car.. just not worth it. I have a very old ( still high end and pricey ) siphon spray gun that I have used for wood stuff.. it's a gun that I couldn't sell and get anything out of it but nothing I'd use for painting autos these days so I have used it for other things. It's just a pain to clean afterwards.. So the jar system seems like a great way to go.. just not fond of the pressure, but price is right for trying it out.

Siphon guns can work just as well as a gravity HVLP.. The advantage of the HVLP is instead of needing 40 - 50 psi for a siphon gun you can get the same quality spray from a HVLP gun at 15 - 20 psi ( maybe less or maybe more depending on type of paint etc. ).. The lower the pressure the less paint floating in the air due to not having to have such high pressure blowing the paint and some paint bouncing off the intended painting object.. The least amount of pressure that can still spray a nice even coat is less paint going into the air. In those high temps you're having in the south.. be careful of the flash point of the chemicals you're spraying.. don't want to see a small craft shop exploded on the news.. Some paints have a flash point around 100F. it's the fumes that are more explosive than the actual liquid.. If you're outside spraying maybe not much of a issue but in a enclosed shop where the fumes can linger for a while and then running electrical tools that can create a tiny spark.. could be a very big firecracker that could take the shop / garage or house down.. maybe all of them.

For the life of me I can't remember who it was that used a electric sprayer to spray paints through.. But someone on here had posted they had great results from a electric sprayer. I don't have any experience with the electric ones and cannot give any advice on them. I used to do autobody / paint work so I have a large 80gal air compressor and some very pricey spray gun equipment. If you go the spray route with a air sprayer.. I have seen good reviews on the cheap harbor freight HVLP spray gun.. but you'd need a compressor for that.. and it might be a better option to look into the electric sprayers.. Wish I could remember who it was that used it on here. Maybe you need to post another topic about spray equipment. Buying a quart / gallon etc. of clear is way more economical in the long run.. but it also works best if you can run batches.. if you're just spraying a couple at a time it might be better to keep using spray cans. I just thought of who it was that "I think" was using electric sprayers.. Maybe @Dave Monk can give you some advice on them?

I honestly don't think it matters what you do.. that top coat no matter what it's coated with is going to scratch and wear over time.. possibly even with the magnetic pad on top.. Over time with vibration and just plain spinning wood on top of the surface with or without the grit.. it's going to wear off. Even the tape if you tape stacks together is going to grip into the surface at some point and time.. if you can get a paper cut from paper or tape.. it can do the same thing to that table surface.. best thing to do to keep it looking new is don't use it.. but that takes all the fun out of it. In some ways.. I like the painted surface.. mostly because I can somewhat judge how much use a saw has had when looking at used saws..

So it has cruise control for the expressways? .. I guess I need to take the time to watch the video.. but what you describe here sounds like a rocker type switch where you can set the speed and if needed you can take your foot off the switch.. or to change the speed you rock the switch more forward or slow down you press more with your heel sort of?

Is there a specific reason you use spray cans and not invest into a cheap spray gun equipment? At the level of work you turn out and using spray cans you'd save a ton of money on buying the lacquer in quarts, gallons, or 5 gal. drums...LOL Then the nozzle issues shouldn't be so bad.. However you would need to clean / soak the spray gun nozzle in cleaning solvent from time to time. I don't do much spraying of projects.. but now that I have been using the CNC to do carving work of signs etc.. I need to seal the wood real well before carving so the wood is completely sealed so when I paint the carved text or image the paint bleeding into the wood is minimal or non - existent.. I've been using this stuff.. water based poly.. was using spray cans but almost a full can per 2ft x 2ft sign drives the cost way up.. nearly $13 a spray can or like $10 for a quart or $50 a gallon. I like this stuff because it doesn't stink bad but the down side is you don't get high from the fumes like you get with lacquer .. It dries super fast much like lacquer does maybe faster.. no strong spells so it's ready for packing in a short amount of time. You can get it in spray cans but I will say.. the cans spray well at first but these do have issues with clogging up the nozzle unless you have enough to spray that you use most all the can.. Even wiping the nozzle when done it like foams out the nozzle even after upside down to clear the can and wiping the nozzle.. so for this stuff the spray equipment is almost a must. https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-13333000-Polycrylic-Water-Based-Protective/dp/B000PSF9Q2

I agree 100% with Frank... You could however adjust the "top" speed the foot switch would go fully pressed by adjusting the saws top speed on the dial.. then is tight corners etc. let up on the foot control when needed slower speeds? If you feel you need to slow up often.. you may be in the wrong hobby.. get yourself a sewing machine as that might be the better hobby for you,

Welcome to the Village Scott! I'm not exactly sure how to say this but I'm not really sure WHY these saws paint the table surface.. I don't care what kind of finish you put on it.. it's going to wear off and get marked up.. No matter how you roll the dice.. nice clean smooth sanded wood being rotated on a painted surface is going to cause for friction / wear.. Does any of the top of the line scroll saws, table saws, bandsaws, or any other tool have a painted table surface? I didn't think so.. so why does ALL of these Excaliburs, Jet, King, and Pegas type saws have a painted surface? Seyco uses the magnetic sheet which also wears out but can be replaced.. The painted surface does help prevent corrosion and does give a smooth slick surface.. but in short time looks like crap.. though still protecting the metal surface. On my saw most of the paint itself is worn off but the primer coating underneath is still holding up quite well, LOL I've been considering repainting mine. I'm not a finish expert but I've worked many years with automotive finishes and I think "good quality" epoxy finishes are stronger than powder coat.. I may be wrong on that.. These saws are advertised as having a "epoxy" finished slick table top.. I'd think it'd hold up better than any other type of top coat. A Porsche is something you just drive.. lets talk pick-up trucks.. They come new with just a painted truck bed knowing full well you buy a truck to haul stuff right? Yet they have this truck bed liner stuff you can "pay extra" to keep the truck bed from getting scratched and start rusting away.. a truck is meant to be used and get ugly over time unless you do pay extra to get the line Ex coating or a plastic set in liner or rubber matt etc.. My suggestion is if you're going to " use " the saw as it is intended to and you're worried about how it looks in a year.. buy the magnetic cover / liner..

I do run much slower saw speed these days for two reasons.. The saws top speed is 250 -350 spm. slower than the old DW saws are.. and the second reason is the Pegas blades just work much better for me.. I like sawing at a faster rate if I can and the FD blades are slower cutting so I find myself "pushing" the blade through.. even at higher saw speeds. For me staying on the lines and making nice smooth cuts work best at higher saw speeds and nice sharp blades. I find slower saw speeds makes for turning sharp 90's etc. hard to do.. Some of the fast saw speed comfort level for me might have to do with my first saw being a single speed at 1700 spm. so that is how I learned to cut and control the blade at higher speeds.. didn't have a choice, LOL Ran that old Delta for 2-3 years too.. LOL A good sharp blade, a tuned saw, and feed rate are more important than the saws speed.. you can burn cherry very easily with a dull blade at 200-400 spm.. if you're trying to force the wood through.. so more important than saw speed is a nice sharp blade and correct feed rate. Since going to Pegas MG blades I never have any burning issue.

Welcome to the Village!!

I've heard of it from somewhere but never actually seen any or any reviews.. I can see it being a problem when a good song come on the radio though

Been there done that.. Jello bounces too much and can't see the lines.. don't slide on the table the best either,

I wouldn't say the type 1 is better than the type 2.. I think type two got a bad review because they move to another plant to make them.. during that process the very first few type 2's had some issues.. hence everyone was happy to complain about the type 2 being junk.. they corrected the issues and I had a type 2 that I ran for 6 years as my only saw.. I did rebuild it once after the first 2 years and used quality parts and grease and it went the other 4 years before it was starting to need a rebuild again.. that's when I picked up my first Hawk.. Anyway I've never had a type 1.. so I cannot say for sure the 1 is better than a 2 etc.. but the story I mentioned above makes sense because they did move to another plant and anytime you move a set-up you gonna have some bugs to work out.. apparently several saws made it through QC and into the hands of the end user with some issues.. issues were corrected I believe as my saw was a good saw for the DW line.. The issues was a alignment thing where it made the saw VERY aggressive cutting.. so much so that many couldn't even use the saw.. Now that doesn't mean there isn't a few of these type 2's out there and may be still circulating around.. That is why I suggest anyone buying a used saw to take a board and blade with you to try it out before you buy it.. I actually speculate this same thing could be the case with those China Excalibur knock offs.. That being said.. they have a tough market and competition for the exact same type of saw.. It can take years to recoop from a bad reputation... For instance the DW switch plants was like 2003 ish? and people are still talking about this.. I bought my type 2 is 2007-8.. with no issues. That being said.. think about how old that type 1 is now..

The best foot peddle set up I've had was a cheap Harbor Freight one that was the click-on click-off.. rather than having to keep my foot on it the whole time pressing it. This was the only peddle I could use when I tore my gastrocnemius ( calf muscle ) almost completely in half. Had to drive the car left footed, and that was really weird, LOL At the time I had my DeWalt with the factory stand, the stand has like a bottom brace that the foot switch fit nicely on. When I sold the DW the foot switch went with it.. Now I just use the standard whatever hawk saws come with.. very small low profile which actually works very well because I still have some weakness in that leg and it's actually harder for the to hold my foot up now.. so the small low profile works well.. do kinda wish it was a click-on click off style on some very long cutouts, LOL. I do get up from the saw and walk to do "other" task about every 15 - 20 minutes.. not too good for the body to sit for hours anyway.. so on large fretwork pieces.. instead of drilling all the holes at once.. I drill 10 - 20 at a time.. this makes me have to get up to continue working.. I purposely have my drill press several feet away so I can move around throughout the work day, LOL

I don't have the "proper" room to display a piece like that or I would consider buying.. It'd sure be interesting to toy around with.. I'd put pictures of me using it on my website.. people probably would think I do all those woodworking items on that old saw.. ... If I did work that hard I'd have to eat a bigger bowl of Wheaties breakfast

I'm really questioning if they meant $1500 as that is the going price of many of these old saws like that.. and just think.. all that money and you have no motor or electronics to go bad on it, LOL

I need a bunch of these so I can start up a gym .. People can pay me a membership plus make inventory for me to sell... https://porthuron.craigslist.org/tls/d/port-huron-antique-fret-scroll-saw-1880s/7342015397.html Seems like a great buy actually.. a lot of these are over $1000 !! I'll upload a photo too just in case the add is gone.

Yes a lot of saws actually do not require and service.. they want you to break it then buy another one.. Some of us will take them apart and put new bearings and grease in them.. A lot of the older saws that use a brass bushing / bearing don't need lubed.. they use a special lube that is mixed in the brass when they make them that is self lubed.. so they don't require anything.. other than every so often they might need another one of those brass bushing / bearings again.. I looked up the model yesterday when I seen your question.. and I am not familiar with that saw..

The one and only WEN tool I have has served me very well for the past 10 years and I've never needed customer service.. so I guess I don't know how the customer service is.. It's a Belt / Disc sander.. I did however after about 5 years have the thing loose power.. I mean barely set a small block of wood on it and the belt would stop or almost stop.. I took it apart thinking the drive belt was bad.. once I got the covers off, the pulley fell off and dang near gave me one of those custom blue toenails, Never did find the set screw but put a new one on and been good since.. The sandpaper ran too close to the edge as well and sanded a tab completely off the belt guard that had the screws to hold the guard on.. so that also fell off one day possibly by user error? LOL.. The auto body shop skills came in handy with having a old Ford Taurus trunk lid laying in my scrap metal recycle bin repaired that buy me cutting a chunk of sheet metal off it and forming a new guard and using the Lincoln Mig welder to weld on some tabs that couldn't get hit by the sandpaper and grinding / sanding away the screws and tabs.. I think it just needed some American engineering to make it a great sander.. which it is now.. as I made it Ford Tough...

Can always take the stopper bolt out and it'll go way up.. just don't hover over it and get a tooth knocked out if a blade breaks, .. Not a big fan of drilling holes in saws, especially new ones.. but you could drill the hole lower and install the stopper bolt so the arms comes up higher if needed.

The new Hawk and the Ultra seem to go up about the same amount... The old 1993 220VS goes way up.. come to think of it.. I'm not sure if it has the bolt in the back that acts as a stop.. maybe that's why it goes up so high.. It's really nice on those really large projects if you feed the blade from the bottom.. Maybe I should keep that saw, LOL..

Having had a RV and currently a 5th wheel TT I totally understand where you're at with this.