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Everything posted by kmmcrafts
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Doesn't work when mail ordering them because no stores around here have the odd sized one with the right angle plug in part that works in my light fixture.. This is a great idea though.. not sure how the store lighting might also affect the video too.. most all the stores in my area have switched to LED strip lights too so it might give a false reading on the video anyway..
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I used to do a lot of scroll sawing live videos using my iPhone as the camera.. The new LED bulbs I put on my magnifier lights make black lines and shadows in my videos and make them basically unviewable.. I don't see this with the naked eye but the camera sure picks up the pulse. I've been going to buy a standard Fluorescent bulb to put into one of my magnifiers so I can get back to doing videos of me sawing.. I'm wondering if this is what you are seeing with the naked eye somewhat.. some of these LED bulbs I do see really fast flickering.. most times I don't notice it.. kind of like when the fluorescents start going bad they sometimes flicker.
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Ahha,,, So we have someone that has experience at this and knows exactly what happens.. I would have never known.. So how bad does it burn? like catch on fire burn or just slightly scorching the wood edges like a laser does kind of burn..
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Ray if it runs way too fast I've read on another forum that if you put the blades in backwards it'll cut a lot slower..
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Well, I was thinking the same thing.. which is why I was really confused. Your idea of a lightbox makes much more sense.. Never would have thought of that one...
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Yeah, I'm not sure what you mean by "lightbox" ? as in a box to get proper lighting for taking pictures? That's what I think of by the term lightbox..
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I used to do and still do by accident change the lines to red.. however dummy me bought a laser printer last year that only prints black, My first laser printer.. I do like it, I guess it might save a little money on ink but I'm not quite certain of that.. Not even had it a year and have had to replace the ink a couple months ago. The ink is more $$ than the inkjet I had so I'm not 100% sold just yet. Maybe it was the cheap laser printer I bought. To get a color unit in what I need / use is quite pricey upfront so I was running this cheap one for a year or so to see what I think.. I'll compare my ink cost at the end of the year and see where I'm at with it. As for learning inkscape I used to be the same way and still am with some of the more advanced things we do as pattern makers. This is somewhat how I am with my CNC too.. and the thing is as others have said.. you work your way through it and sort of learn it, but then don't do it again for a month or two and forget everything you went through the first time around..
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Ray, I believe the single speed Hegners run at 1700spm. I think the best people to ask about converting it to VS would be the fine folks at Henger. I'm sure someone here probably knows as well but I'm not that person, LOL Sounds like a heck of a deal though for $40.
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This is very sad news. Like Dan said, I think he was like a friend to most everyone on this forum. Condolences to his family and friends.
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I think being a little over weight would be a healthier option, LOL
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Excalibur with Pégas chuck-heads not breaking 2/0 blades
kmmcrafts replied to xocd's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Just a tip that I do with veining to get more detail. Not sure what you're cutting and may not work for your current project. If you cut the veining with your straight blade then pop in a small spiral blade. The spiral blade will pretty much follow the original flat blade cut line.. and you open up the veining width. I do this with most of the car clocks I make for the body lines.. I normally cut with a #3 Pegas MG. Then swap over to a 2/0 FD-NS and open up the veining. Practice on some scrap to get a feel for it.. but seriously the spiral likes to follow the path of least resistance.. which is sort of why many struggle to use them on solid lumber as the different grain lines etc. are different densities.. Learning to control spirals works best on BBply as it is more consistent than a solid lumber. -
That's too bad.. I'd be lost without my large air compressor and my welders etc.. I sprayed this with project with spray cans. I haven't really run any wood finishes in my spray equipment yet. I bought quart cans to do that though, just haven't done it because I don't like the thought of cleaning them every time I'm done. Think I'm going to buy a cheap spray gun to use just for woodwork stuff once I get my CNC into production mode. I like the sprayer someone posted the other day that just used mason jars for the canister.. then I can maybe keep finish in a jar and cleaner in another and be able to somewhat seal the finish with a cap / lid for later use. Also thought about that air brush as it looked to have multiple containers.. but not sure how / if it could be sealed with a lid out not.
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I think it was luck, as I really don't know much about wood finishes or even finishing wood. Wood finishing is so much different than auto finishing.. wood has grain and texture even when you sand it to its smoothest state it's still got texture. Wood also will soak up a lot of the finish. Auto primer will soak up paints too but the cost of auto paints it just makes sense to spray sealer over any primed surface before spraying the paint. Having a history of spraying paint possibly does help some in laying out a nice even coat.
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I ended up using 3 coats poly spray from the gold / brown can. Hand painted the lettering with acrylic paints and then sprayed a couple more coats of the poly clear. The white paint was painted first and not ever using these paints I think maybe it was old paint as it was very thick and kind of dried really fast. The black paint was more runny and brushed much better so thinking the white was old.. all in all it turned out all right.. to do it again I'd probably do things slightly different but everything was a fun learning experience and I got a acceptable product.
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Something that you might think about adding to your saw!
kmmcrafts replied to OCtoolguy's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I could see this being very beneficial for production runs of certain pieces for someone that doesn't have a table saw or bandsaw.. Several years ago I could have used that to make clock bases when I didn't have much for any other saws. I wouldn't say it's totally useless but it probably is for the majority of us that have a full shop of tools that would be better suited to do straight cuts. My clock bases are typically about 2 inch wide and whatever length I need typically 7" and 11" I used to make them oval shaped rather than just a simple rectangle but shipping the oval shaped ones required me to use larger boxes and also sometimes put the weight up to where it was in the next pricing bracket which was substantially more money and required me to scroll them since I didn't have any way to cut oval shapes back then.. I now use my CNC to carve out my website address on the bottom and then cuts out the base. Before the CNC I started cutting them on the table saw to save a lot of time. Table saw is faster than the CNC but I like the website address being engraved on the bottom of the base. Anyway before the table saw and CNC etc.. This could have been beneficial back in the beginning days.. That said it probably wouldn't work on any of the saws I had since every saw I've owned had a rounded table.. the EX has the most squared front of the table saw I've had, and I think it's still rounded to some degree.. -
I second what Melanie said, I almost posted this morning as I seen he wasn't on at all yesterday but when checking he had checked in sometime through the night. Anyway, hope you're feeling better. Take it easy and get plenty of rest. Sending more prayers to you both.
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If you want to avoid that construction you could get off at the Bellevue / Olivet onto M78 ( Butterfield HWY ) take a right ( east ) off the exit go to the stop sign ( about 1 mile ish ) which will be named... well they name it everything, LOL. Marshall Rd. , old 27, whichever it's called in that particular area but same rd. take a left ( north ) follow it all the way to Johnsons as they are on that road and the road pretty much goes right along side of I69. You'll go through small town of Olivet then then it's a decent two lane rd with a 55mph speed limit until you come into Charlotte.. Old 27 goes all the way down to near the state line just south of Coldwater Mi. I don't know how the road is after you go about 15 mile south of Marshall as I've never been on it any farther south of there.
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Well, selling physical patterns is got to be tough to please everyone.. Years ago we used to buy packaged patterns from a local lumber and tools supplier. The patterns was packaged in plastic envelopes and hung on a turning display rack in the store.. The patterns was folded as to fit into these packages. Same with the scroll saw magazines.. they put patterns on a very large sheet both front and back and fold it all up to fit into the magazine pages.. you have to take the staples out of the magazine to get the patterns out in one piece, LOL. BIG reason I no longer subscribe to them. I'm amazed that they say the tubes get damaged more, I sold decals for about 8 years with over 20,000 orders before I handed that over to a friend that still runs the shop. I only had maybe 1 issue with damage and always used the tubes to mail the decals in.. The decals were reproduction tractor emblems and logos to restore classic tractors.. so they had to be perfect in order to use them.. It appears it's more worth stating up front that you'll be damaging the patterns before you put them into the small box. I think the real issue here is more about cost effective shipping rather than mailing out a undamaged pattern.. With all that said, I can see both sides.. It's hard to ship practical for patterns and yet compete with electronic files being downloaded from other sites. Seems like there could be an option to let folks know that their order will have the patterns crushed into a box or for extra shipping they can have them mailed into a tube or other means they prefer that makes it easy for both parties to be happy and no squabbles about crushed patterns if they choose the cheapest method of shipping. I don't know the answer, but I do feel like there could be a resolution to this to maintain and gain happy customers that come back to order again.. and stating that it's just how you do you packaging isn't really that answer in my opinion. I've lost a lot of money up front a few times over the years of doing business just to give a customer 120% satisfaction.. a bragging customer will almost always bring in more customers.. a dis-satisfied customer can chase away several thousand customers and for many years.. Look at the issues of the type two DeWalt scroll saws as an example.. They went to the type two saw nearly 20 years ago.. moving that production line to another plant and calling the saw the type 2.. having issues with it's first run of production and people still talking about the type 2 saws being junk and recommend you find a type 1 that is now 25 years old.. just because a few bad apples slipped past quality control 20 years ago and this is still brought up in discussions today to stay away from any type 2 saws.. With the internet these days it's never been more important to leave a customer with a positive experience because the word gets around very fast and sticks around for years.. Not like the old days where the local town might hear about a bad situation but with internet the whole world seems to hear about it.. and within only a few days.. and basically sticks around forever..
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Just a heads up, They have I69 tore up and it's only 1 lane for several miles before you get into Charlotte. They've needed to repair this interstate for at least 10 years now and finally doing it but everyone complaining about it. LOL They have the southbound lanes completely torn up and have them crossing over to the northbound side. It was pretty smooth going for me last week but that was mid morning.. I could see that being a jam during busy times of the day though. I probably won't be making it to the expo again this year. I bought 200bdft. of Poplar and 100bdft. of both oak, cherry, maple, and walnut back in January when I learned I get the same pricing as the expo sale if I buy 100bdft or more. LOL I also picked up 20 sheets of 1/8 BBply and 5 sheets of 1/4".. I've barely touched any of it other than the Walnut and Poplar and haven't used much of those yet either because a bunch of my freebie lumber from my brothers mill is finally dried good enough to use. Depending on what's happening I may show up to the expo if the wife and I decide to not take a short trip for our anniversary. The expo always lands on our anniversary, had I known about this 28 years ago I would have changed the date. But that being said it is frontier days or something like that so lots of activities and a nice crafts show on the courthouse lawn that we like to attend.. which is actually how I learned about the expo in the first place, LOL Anyway, we was thinking about going to Niagara Falls so I'm probably not going to the expo.
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Could be well worth the effort and drive IF you're in the business as Scott is to have a storage shed and go make a 200 mile trip to buy 200 board foot as I do.. Though my local source is only 35 ish miles away. It's nice having stocked up lumber.. also nice to get bulk pricing. I only have to make this trip once a year.. 200 board foot cost me around $400.. at Lowes prices that same 200 board foot is costing him nearly $1500... and then you get this glued up junk? I get to sort through the lumber stack at the lumber yard and can pick through what I want or don't want. They'll plane it down to whatever thickness I want for a little extra if I don't want the 7/8 inch thick ( considered 1" ) Most times I run my puzzles at 5/8 thick.. I resaw those boards so I get one at 5/8" and one at 3/16 - 1/4 to use for ornaments etc.. But if you don't have the equipment to do that the 7/8" for puzzles etc. works fine too, or have them take it down to the 3/4" The money you save in lumber could buy you the planer and bandsaw to resaw if you like.. within a year or two.. of doing this. Edit to add: The road trip miles can also be deducted ($0.54 a mile) and your meals etc. can also be deducted for the road trip, plan a mini vacation with tax deductions, LOL My wife and daughter have a thrift store ( actually 3 of them ) that they like to go to so we all go to the mini vacation when I make that trip..
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Hmm, Being an online business myself and primarily communicate through emails / messages. I will say Mondays are a crap show.. because you have all your orders to package up from the weekend because no package deliveries on the weekends. That said I do try to reply to every email and I almost always check them and reply by the importance.. something like this.. a existing customer issue is my top priority rather than the new customer asking if I can make something custom etc. or those that seem to not read my item description and ask dumb questions that is already in the description such as size or wood types etc.. get a lot of that and it's really annoying but also is a part of being a business and dealing with customers. IMO, they should have or at least I would have made sure to message back Sunday night / Monday on a issue like this.. A good customer service is considered by etsy and amazon as replying to messages within 24 hour period. If I were a pattern seller mailing out physical patterns. I'd roll them up and send in a tube. Also would roll them in a way so they'd lay out flat on a surface and not try to coil up on you when you try to scan / copy them..
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Wow! sorry to hear that, praying for you both for a speedy full recovery. I've read that vitamin C and D help fight it off better.. not sure if that is factual or not but makes sense to me.
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That's not a glued up panel, this is the effects of global warming making the trees grow. inside out. I mentioned years ago to Scott about buying lumber from a actual lumber yard or mill, he likes his specific 12" x 6 ft. boards. I pay $12.60+tax for the same board at my local lumber supplier.. and that isn't direct mill price this is planned to the same size as what the box stores get. Actually I pay less than that.. as they have a rewards points thing and the more you spend the larger discount % off.. at the local mill buying green rough cut is probably about $6-8 for the same size board maybe less, I get mine free from them because I get the scrap pieces ( whatever doesn't meet the 30" minimum for them goes into scrap bin to be ground into wood chips. ) Problem is it's green and rough cut.. gotta wait a year plus to dry out good and then run through the planner..
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Okay thank you Bill, I got to go to the hardware store anyway so maybe I'll grab a couple spray cans of it. I know what you mean about the small print. I use reading glasses but never have them in the shop.. so I took my quart can and sat at my saw under the mag light to read mine, LOL.. was still a struggle because the can is round and would go out of focus as I read. LOL
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I did this carving from Maple last fall and used the water base poly.. about three coats.. then just spray painted the whole board.. sanded the top surface back to the wood color and top coated with a couple more coats of the poly.. Pictures kinda suck but you get the idea.. running the orbital sander on it with the holes for dust collection in the papers.. got caught on the points of some of the stars and broke them off. I might just stick to what I know with this project.. and use the water based poly but instead of spray paint I think I'll hand paint with small brush for less sanding / clean up. Because I need to get it finished up and out of here.. Just wish the water based poly made the grain stand out at you like a oil finish does.. either way I think the customer is going to love it no matter how I finish it up..
