kmmcrafts

Believe it or not.. Inflation.. We are seeing many many things taking huge price increases.. They are saying it's because of shortages and supply / demand.. But lumber specifically OSB and some building materials are through the roof.. I see the place I buy my BBply says.. "Call for pricing" I think if you all need some BBply and can find it at your usual prices.. Now might be a good time to stock up.. Also.. Danish Oil is scarce I haven't seen a price hike yet but I believe it's coming.. I like to buy it by the gallon.. can't find gallons anywhere.. I finally broke down and bought a couple quarts on Monday to get me by for a little while.. I've seen on some websites that the gallons are expected to be in stock ( I think ) April 19th?

Imagine how many subscribers they'd get if the internet disappeared suddenly... we wouldn't have all these forums / groups to get access to patterns and many folks would depend upon a magazine and pattern books. I've been saying this since around 2005... They really should be focusing on a electronic / online version of the magazine..

Guys in my CNC groups use Oramask.. It's used for painting.. ie sand your blank and top coat with clear sealer of choice such as shellac or poly.. place the oramask on then carve the piece on the CNC. Once carved you paint the carved out area. without having to worry so much about getting paint where it isn't supposed to be painted.. then peel off the oramask. I'm not sure what the material is made of.. but I tried using shelf liner instead of the oramask as a cheaper product. But the CNC sort of shreds the edges of the shelf liner and also the paint softens the liner to create a large mess, LOL The oramask could be used in place of the shelf liner if you like paying more for products.. Also heard complaints about the oramask removal is hard as it sticks very well.. We used the stuff in the autobody world for custom graphic paint jobs like flames etc.. Good stuff but pricey. The scroll saw stick and release tape sounds interesting, but again.. seems a bit pricey considering the shelf liner is like $5-6 a roll.. and I want to say those rolls are longer that the 20ft. scroll saw tape stuff is.. I don't have issues removing the shelf liner when using the full sheet shipping labels.. but it is more difficult for sure when using spray glues.. Maybe if you are set on using the spray glues.. Oramask may be a better option or the scroll saw tape. I just know that the oramask holds up well with some pretty potent chemicals.. Then again.. it sticks well to so removal might be worst than the removal of some of those very sticky shelf liners.. Again, only time I have had issues with removal of shelf liner is when I use the spray glues.. Possibly need to let the spray glue dry out more on my pattern before placing it on the liner covered wood blank.. Maybe that's my issue..

Really a 55 gallon drum? Just thinking of all the fun pranks I could pull if I had a drum of that stuff.. Thinking the spray cans would last longer than the drum for me..

I stopped my renewal about 10 years ago.. I've often thought about re-subscribing.. over the last couple of years, more so for just supporting the magazine.. Even in the prime of magazines I rarely used a pattern from them.. as I always hated the way they lay the designs out on the huge paper then you have to crinkle it folding it up to fit into a scanner etc. Then scanning another pattern from the same sheet you have a crinkled up paper.. just never made any sense to me the way they do it.. BUT anyway.. it is nice reading material etc.. and could be gone if everyone was to drop it for the online clubs/ groups / pages.. etc.

IF I'm doing my math right.. the peel and stick full sheet 8.5 x 11 shipping labels like I use is $0.08 each.. I buy large quantity for better pricing than what I can go to the local box store and get 20 sheets for so there is that.. I get 1000 sheets at a time and it's now ( priced raised as my last purchase at the beginning of the year was $60 ) $80.. You can shop around and probably find it cheaper.. I do try to buy this brand though as I've had some others that didn't stick real well.. may have been someone's old stock or something too since I typically buy off eBay.. Regardless.. to me it's worth it since you get all the sticky overspray from spray glues and the hassle of clogged nozzles etc etc.. sticky fingers.. buy the time you price out the can of spray.. your regular sheet of paper and the time it takes to use the spray etc.. peel and stick is just what works for me the best.. I still keep spray glue around for those 4-5 times a year that I do a larger project.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Shipping-Labels-Full-Sheet-8-5x11-Self-Adhesive-PACKZON/172818314778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Little late here but I hope you all had a great Easter.

Google or other search can be your friend when you think something isn't available.. Late last summer I searched around for larger self adhesive paper.. It's certainly out there and can be ordered.. I have yet to buy / try it because for me.. just doesn't seem worth it since I only have to do larger patterns maybe 4 times a year at most.. But.. anyway.. they have 11 x 17 full sheet label papers.. actually larger than that if you have a printer that can handle that.. My printer is maxed out at 11 x 17.. Edit: forgot to add the link to the site I found.. Lots of sizes and layout options.. https://www.onlinelabels.com/uses/wholesale-labels

I may try this and see what happens.. I'm certain that the patterns / liner comes off much harder than when I just use the liner with a shipping label.. I also hate the messy sticky glue overspray not only around the area of where it's sprayed but also my fingers.. Yeah I could wash my fingers with mineral spirits ( I'd have to buy some as I don't use it or keep any around or wear latex gloves etc.. but those things are also a hassle.. ) Just peeling a full sheet label and sticking it to the shelf liner seems to be the best method for me..

I've meant to post this the last time I used spray glue and got side tracked and forgot.. 6 months later here I am doing a larger pattern so I need to use spray glue instead of printing the pattern on a peel and stick full sheet shipping label. SO here is what I've been finding.. The shelve liner has always worked real well for me... never had a issue with it being stuck too good and peeling up pieces of the wood fibers like I have seen others post about from time to time.. BUT, when I use the spray adhesive ( in this case I used 3M 45 but has done the same with most other brands I just never put it to thought that it was the adhesive ) I find that the liner comes up harder.. I do place the pattern on the liner / board while the pattern is still somewhat wet.. maybe next time I'll let it somewhat dry out more and see if that affects it. I notice that the liner looks like it gets soft looking if that makes sense like maybe the spray glue chemicals is softening or melting the liner some.. which maybe bleeding through the liner and making the liner stick to the wood harder? Anyway, just thought since I've just peeled off the pattern and it came off hard.. reminded me that I've been going to post this observation for a long time.. I just keep forgetting. Okay.. better get back to work..

I purchased one.. hoping that many more purchase one too so they can get to making them out of real parts.. Not looking forward to receiving one from imaginary parts because I won't know what parts goes where during assembly..

The French Cleat seems like a bit of overkill for what I'm looking to do.. remember these are going to be hung up by customers.. many may not understand how that system works.. I would definitely do this if it were very heavy.. When I said these are heavy.. I meant more that they are much heavier than the typical plaque that I normally just use a sawtooth hanger on. I'd guess this thing is less than 5lb. probably closer to 3-4.. I'm thinking about using the coated wire as Deny suggested. I have a boatload of these D hangers both smaller and some pretty large ones. Thanks everyone for your thoughts / suggestions.

What method would you pro's use to hang larger heavier woodwork pieces. I've searched around on Etsy looking at what the others do.. but I've seen everything and nothing, LOL.. This isn't really scroll saw related since I'm talking about hanging larger signs, flags etc. that I route on my CNC. I already have several folks wanting one of these flags shown in the photo.. But this piece is 26 x 13 x 3/4 inches.. Made from Maple.. so it's a lot heavier than the typical scroll saw stuff I make that hangs and I typically used sawtooth hangers on those.. In my searching on Etsy I found sawtooth hangers ( mind you they are making theirs from pine which might be lighter ) or wire.. MOST of the listings I run upon didn't show or tell how to hang it.. Amazing how little some sellers describe their items.. yet get sales.. For my heavier scroll sawn items which is very few of them.. I use the D hook hangers instead of the sawtooth. I always thought they was a little more robust.. Was kind of thinking of these on each end of the sign.. for two hanging points.. but that might be too difficult for some to get to hang straight. Also thought about just having the CNC drill two holes clear through to use a leather or? strap to hang from above. So what's your thoughts..

I thought the dull blade breaking thing was just a Hawk thing.. That's the way my Hawk is.. if the blade gets dull and I feel it needs changed its about the same time it snaps.. The short arm saws, like the DW's Pegas etc.. are a lot more forgiving with dull blades. I don't ever really recall breaking blades on those saws.. But I have made smoke with them when they get too dull to cut.. they try burning the way through.. not a good thing either trust me, LOL

Where is the blade breaking? in the middle or near the top / bottom clamping points? I don't know a lot about Hegners.. but have read that the blade tension is fussy with them.. I know this to be true with the Hawk saws as well.. and thinking has a little to do with the long arm motion of these types of saws. If I have some tension issues I break blades somewhere near the middle of the blade. If I break them near the clamping screws, it's usually the clamp screws need sanded flat etc.

Stack cut 4 from 1/8 bbply using a #3 Pegas MG3 blade. Three backers from 1/4” walnut ply and one from bbply and painted black. Keith Fenton pattern. While cutting these on the scroll saw I also had my CNC carving the flag. Flag carved from soft maple and sprayed with water based polyurethane and then spray painted black, sanded off overspray and top coated again with the poly.

Glad to hear you got it up and running good again.. Yes you should get plenty of new life out of it.

I wonder what they use at the bearing factory when making them, they use solvents during the machining process's.. typically a machining oil.. I guess it is a oil still.. typically what I use to clean out old grease is a light oil such as diesel fuel it's still oil or a light lubricant.. I think the bigger issue with solvents is that they are meant to break down oils and people do not rinse or clean off the solvents.. make sure they are completely dry etc.. Difference in a auto shop industry is it's not cost worthy of using solvents to clean as the time a mechanic spend cleaning with solvents and then scrubbing with dish soap and water to clean off solvents waiting for parts to dry.. they just replace parts as you spend $80 in labor to clean or $40 for parts.. For sure you want all the grease off before adding new grease.. unless you are for sure adding the same grease type.. many grease types if mixed will do more harm than good.. as they'll separate the oil properties and dry out the matrix. Which is the same thing as using solvents that break down the oils.. This is why engine builders wash the cylinders out with soap / water after cleaning the blocks in the solvent tanks.. No reason you cannot use solvents to clean out old grease.. just be sure to also wash off the solvents in a mild dish soap and water.. be sure it is dried out well before adding the new grease.. Blowing them with a air hose helps drying times if you have a compressor

Dan I would say it's totally up to you on taking it further apart.. When I did mine I took a couple of the pieces apart to expose the bearing and there was plenty of grease so there was no need to add any more.. plus I had no idea what type of grease was originally used, and many grease types are not to be mixed.. some will turn into a almost glue like substance if you mix it with another type.. I don't recommend adding grease unless you're willing to use solvent to remove all the factory grease first.. On mine.. I just assembled it and figured I'd run it a couple years and pull it apart for a clean up and fresh grease if I keep it that long.. Without a doubt the factory grease is not a high end synthetic grease like I would use if I was doing a clean and re-grease job on it.. If you're not willing to have to take it apart in a few years for a maintenance / grease job.. then maybe worth the effort for you to clean it and replace it with a good synthetic grease now while it's apart.. I just don't recommend mixing the two types of grease by simply adding to what is in there now. Good luck

I haven't bought thin wood in 8-10 years.. since I got my own planer and bandsaw etc.. BUT, when I did buy it I got it from this place.. Not sure how they are to deal with these days and to be honest I only bought from them a couple times because I can get 1/8 + inch locally.. I was getting 1/16 and 1/32 from them for a certain project I was doing... https://www.ebay.com/sch/deer56hunter/m.html?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEFSXS%3AMESOI&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2654

Congrats on the new toy..

WOW! That's really cool. Nice job cutting and great design.

I ran my DeWalt for 10 years production cutting.. Never replaced the clamps either.. Bought some as spares as everyone mentioned how the over tightening will spread the clamp and or strip the threads.. It's important to maintain the clamps though.. Keep the little spinning insert on the thumb screw lubed and spinning freely.. Keep oil off of them but yet you need to keep the threaded part oiled and working very smoothly.. gritty threads can make you over tighten on the blade and or get the threads boogered up.. When lubed up and working properly I was always able to feel that rubber O-ring squish when tightening the blade.. that was my Q to say that the blade is tight enough.. If it's slips then I need to dress the end and clean / oil the thread.

I experience the same with blades.. But I don't think it has to do with the speed.. but I do think it's from heat.. For instance.. I don't run my Hawk full speed.. Probably closer to the same speed as max speed on the EX.. which I do run full speed. However.. when I had my DeWalt, I did run it full speed ( 1700 spm ).. and blades lasted longer than the Hawk still.. I think it has more to do with the blade having a more straight up / down movement on the Hawk which doesn't back the blade away from the material nearly as much and letting the sawdust clear better. The short rocker arm saws such as the DW, EX etc saws give a more rocking motion of the blade which backs the blade out away farther from the heated cut line.. Even though you adjust the blade to be more straight up / down at the table height it's still backing away motion enough to cool the blade more.. Also as you noted.. those long arms ( especially on the 26" saw ) create a lot more stress on the blade than that little short arm of those other saws.. There is probably "some" blade flex with those long arms and having it powered from the lower arm like they are designed especially with those real small blade.. Randy ( HotShot ) talked about this flexing issue when he had his Hawk.. I don't use anything smaller than a #3 most times unless it's a spiral.. most times those are a 2/0.. I'm not sure how you all adjust your saws.. but I've never been able to get as true of a straight up down at the material height on my EX as I get with the Hawk.. I have it set as close as it can get.. yet it's still more aggressive cutting than the Hawk is.. However I do set the blade angle on my new Hawk to be slightly more aggressive.. since I do mostly cut 1/2 - 3/4 material most all the time.. But cutting 1/8 - 1/4 material I find the Hawk is easier to control the cut than the EX is.. Both are doable easily but the Hawk I'm more " relaxed" during the cutting process.. If that makes sense.

If you just want to time projects you can just get a three way plug and plug it into your foot switch ( provided you use one ) and then get a electric clock and set time to whatever hour you want.. the clock will run with the saws on / off.. I used an actual hour meter.. bought a short extension cord and cut the one end off to put on the spade electric connecters to plug into the meter and then plug the other end into the three way plug.. comes on with the foot switch etc as the saw does.. I have both a analog meter and a digital.. and there is advantages to both as well as disadvantages.. First off you have to remember that ( the ones I have and I think they are all this way) the meter runs on 1/10th digits.. so it takes 6 minutes to change the 1/10 of an hour digit. so with that said if you have a digital version you could be off 6 minute from being accurate.. However the digital one I have has three mode settings.. two of which can be cleared out back to 0 and the one is a continues hours. The analog one you can see somewhat where the 1/10 digit is and guestimate a closer time value.. This is my favorite one.. Also the digital one runs off a battery.. and it's not a replaceable battery so when it dies it's done for.. I have two digital and two analog.. I prefer the analog one better. To learn a little more.. Steve Good did this years ago and put a write-up on his blog.. and a link to the digital meter.. I lost the link to the digital one but this is the analog one I bought.. I think the price doubled since I bought mine.. I saved the link as I wanted to get more of them.. just never did.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hour-Meter-Generator-or-any-120-Volts-AC-60-hz-ProG713/321893404814?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649