kmmcrafts

I use the provided holder that’s built into the saws base. I have the accessory tray on my new Hawk saw that has spots for holders too. I only keep the most popular used blades at the saws like this but I also have a plastic 12 ( I think) tube storage holder I purchased years ago from woodcraft or somewhere, too long ago so I don’t remember. Seen a ad in the magazine and ordered it. Lol

Nice list of new tools.. you will wonder how you did everything with out the planer.. Probably one of the most used tools in my shop besides the scroll saws.. I've been tool shopping to.. Mostly just buying add-on things for my CNC and Laser.. looking at getting a much larger laser.. but the $8000 price tag is intimidating.. trying to decide if I have enough fat to hold me over for a year of not eating.. and if the shop is warm enough now that I put heat in there for my bed to sleep on is worth it or not,

I bought 300 bdf from Johnsons the week between Christmas and New Years.. was the same price as always.. maybe the prices jumped with the new year? Hope not.. I need more lumber.. My brother just called me yesterday and said he has been cutting Walnut and the grade inspectors rejected several pieces.. when he says that it means come get it out of his way.. and a few boards to him is 100 + bdf, LOL.. Next week I'm picking up my score, LOL Unfortunately I have to sticker it and wait a year or so before using it.. Man I hate that and running out of room to sticker this stuff.. The rafters is stuff full in both my shops.. Finally started using the Cherry and Maple he gave me 1.5 years ago.. Hopefully soon I won't need to buy any lumber... Now if I can talk him into making BBply

I also learned about Cherokee from Ray, I ordered a couple smaller batches of BBply.. They was quick to deliver.. but only sent half my order. Then I got slammed with orders and forgot to send them a message about it, When I went to send them a message there was a message from them saying they forgot and had messed up my order but it was on the way.. So they get a thumbs up from me as well.. Actually need more ply and torn between ordering from them and having mostly cut to the size I need already or buy local and have to cut up the full sheets.. was really nice not having to break down the full sheets.. But that luxury comes with double the cost.... then there is the cost of gas and the couple hours round trip to go to the local place..

Nope too far of a drive for me.. This is in Washington DC / Virginia.. I'm in Michigan.. and have 5 saws.. so don't need or want it bad enough for that kind of drive nor would I pay to have it shipped.. Just seen it but couldn't make out if that was the tension lever or something else.. Could be a good deal for someone I suppose.. I'd buy it if it was within a hour drive or something maybe..

Either #5 Pegas MG blade or a #5 FD- Ultra Reverse.. Or #5 Olsen PGT Basically a number 5, LOL.. That said sometimes a smaller blade cuts faster and cleaner.. I have and do often use a #3 Pegas MG blade on 3/4" Oak, Cherry, and Poplar.. BUT it would really depend on the pattern.. as those smaller blades are also easier to drift a little on longer straight cuts..

I just run across this craigslist ad, Does that metal thing sticking up look like the up front tension release? Seems like it'd be a good deal for someone if it is.. Normally I see the orange colored handle but it's either worn off or that's not what I think it is, LOL https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/d/warrenton-hegner-multicut-s-scroll-saw/7264892005.html

beautiful work on the table, I'm no longer posting my work on here either, Now from the car guy on here, LOL.. That looks like a AMC Pacer in the background? If so, that be the first one I've seen in about 30 years, LOL

That's the blade I run.. and I just bought it so that is kind of why I was wanting to stick with a 10" saw rather than the 12.. but after researching more.. I may end up going with the 12" saw just because it seems to have the largest cross cut.. Anyway.. I've run several brands and configurations of blades on my saw but this one has been the best by far.. I was planning to send in my old blade for sharpening and tuning. Not sure what that cost but the place I buy my lumber will send them out to some company that sharpens them etc..

Seen this model last night while researching online.. I really like this model and this might be the one I shoot for unless something better comes up.. What is important to me besides a quality saw is the larger width it can cut.. so far this model has the largest 90 degree cross cut. I'm planning to start making some signs on my CNC.. and right now I'm all the time having to flip the board to be able to cut all the way.. and this is on small signs 10 - 12" My CNC has a 24 x 24" capacity.. well actually 24 wide.. since it's open frame CNC I can carve any length so long as I stop and move the board through and able to re-align everything, LOL Anyway I see a need for a large cross cut saw.. Probably mostly work with 14" or less but anything that can cut that or larger is what I'm looking for.. I also see a open end drum sander in my future too, LOL

Nice work! Two of my good friends are ham radio operators.. I've made some desk plaques for them over the years. I sell a lot of these clocks.. and many customers have me add the call sign to it. I usually do a larger rectangle at the bottom near the base with the added call sign.

I did notice that some said ( I think ) 1"? arbor.. and I know mine Hitachi isn't that large.. so it is something I need to watch for when buying or I'll have to consider the cost of another new blade.. I run a miter saw blade like Bob mentioned.. which is not very old and not the cheapest blades.. why I was hoping to stay with a 10" blade, lol

Have this one but the battery died one day.. so I came in the house for lunch and recharged the battery. When I went back out to finish the motor wouldn't work. Then the wife suggested to buy the refurbished Hitachi.. Actually still have this Craftsman one but the battery dies way to quick. On a more serious note, you can take the battery packs apart and change out the cells.. usually way cheaper than replacing the whole battery pack. That said though.. I don't see why one would want a stationary battery powered tool, are you sure it's not a jobsite table saw? I've never seen a battery powered table saw.. Then again I never seen a battery powered miter saw until yesterday when researching them. I could see that being handy for construction sites etc.. it was actually hard to find a corded one on the refurbish tool site..

Neither, Shortwave radio, LOL.. That's what happens when the wife starts talking and interrupts my thought process which is easy to do these days for some reason, LOL

I was eyeing that last night and was kind of thinking about pulling the trigger on it, I'm torn kind of between that one and this one from HD.. Since I kind of like to have the stand too.. the HD one actually a little lower priced I think.. buy the time I also buy a stand. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-15-Amp-10-in-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-and-Universal-Miter-Saw-QUICKSTAND-TSS103-A18MS01G/313307258 Edit: actually no the HF one is $10 cheaper with a coupon I have for $15 off the stand.. If I wait for the big 25% coupon then it'd be quite a bit cheaper maybe.. Off subject sort of but do you happen to use the "Honey" extension for automatic coupon codes when shopping online? Many times people will put in their coupon codes and it picks up coupons that get used.. and will give you the best price on things.. Sometimes it doesn't find a working coupon.. but many times if I shop online it'll pull a 25% off coupon code and I don't have to wait for one in the mail or email etc.. That's how I got the coupon for the stand..

I had a nice 1950 craftsman radio saw that I gave to my uncle about 6 years ago because I had it two years and never once used it.. About a week later I thought of all kinds of things I could use it for, I kick myself for getting rid of it.. But then again, the thing was huge and very heavy..

Nothing wrong with my old Hitachi 10" miter saw other than I would like to be able to cut through a 90 cut without having to flip my board over and make a second cut. I mostly just use it for a chop saw to cut boards down to a more manageable size. Most my lumber is purchased in 8-10 foot lengths, and seems a bit difficult to cut that long on my scroll saw for some reason. Thinking I need a sliding miter saw.. seems many will do at least a 10-12" cross cut.. seems like that'd work well for me. Would like to stay with a 10" blade since I have new higher end blades on hand for various purposes. Not looking to spend more than $1000 and as always lower cost is always better but wanting a quality tool. Once I get rolling on the CNC making signs I feel like it'll get used a lot. The one I have is old, maybe bought it around 2000-02 and it's used probably a few times a day, every day now. I bought the old Hitachi as a refurbished one.. and refurb is probably where I'll look once I find something suitable if there is a refurb available then that is what I'll do.. I don't have a router stand either, I mounted mine to a cheap universal HF stand.. I seen Home depot had a ryobi package with a stand etc.. think it was nearly $300.. Not sure how good a saw they are.. Anyway what do you have or recommend.. features you like / dislike etc.. My Hitachi has a LED line which is nice to have.. I see some say a shadow light.. not sure how that compares to the LED..

No Pictures it didn't happen..

That $0.10 can might be able to turn into a $20 item with about 15 hours of work designing a pattern and sawing up the said design.. Gosh that seems like a better deal than buying wood.. Sounds like a great bargain for those that only care to cover your cost and replenish your cutting medium.. This way you're replenishing your beverage and scroll sawing materials..

I just posed the other day about my new pin nailer.. I bought it from Harbor freight.. While I have very little experience with it since I've only shot about 8 mails with it, LOL It seems to work great for what I bought it for.. This is the one I bought, I also bought the 1/2" and 3/4" nails from them when I ordered it.. I bought it online since the shipping cost me about the same as driving there.. https://www.harborfreight.com/23-gauge-pin-nailer-64143.html?_br_psugg_q=pin+nailer I had a 25% off coupon and I think the whole order cost about what the nailer would normally cost.

Mine was a later type 2 as well and I really had no issues with it.. Not saying a DW isn't a good saw.. But if you're trying to decide between a DW and a Pegas.. In my mind the Pegas is way better saw.. If your budget is stuck at the $500 range look for a good used Hawk or Hegner.. otherwise if you are stuck on buying new.. then yes.. DW it is I suppose.. just plan on buying another one in a few years or rebuilding it..

Might depend on if your DW was a type 1 or 2? Remember all the topics of people drilling oblong holes on the front brackets to move the linkage so it was less aggressive? Remember reading about shimming the table to make it less aggressive? A lot of folks hated how aggressive those saws were.. Mostly started out with the type 2 saws I believe.. I had a type 2 but I guess as you all stated I never knew any difference.. did take me some time to get used to how fast it cut when I got it from the old Delta and Dremel saw I had before the DW.. took some time running the speed dial slower than I normally did with the other saws.. DW may have fixed this as there was a lot of complaints about them type 2's It doesn't affect everyone the same way.. and a different choice of blades can slow the saw down some.. ( ie some people say the Pegas MG blades are too aggressive.. while many others love them.. could be just the difference in the saw set up rather than blade. ) I used to use only FD UR blades in my old DW.. but when I went to a Hawk it seemed slow going.. mainly because the DW I was used to was a aggressive cutting saw and the Hawk not so much.. can get way better detail on the Hawk than the DW even though projects looked good on either saw there was a noticeably better crisper corners etc from the Hawk.. So using a slower blade isn't going to change the better detail of sharp corners etc.. However you can go into the corner and back out etc. and still make a nice corner.. just takes a little additional effort.. Many people go into a corner and back out and inch their way around to make a nice sharp corner on the DW type saw.. but with the Hawk you just go in and turn the corner.. My point in my last reply is more about having a saw that you can adjust the aggressiveness is a nice option for a newbie to help them learn control and also help with either making it more aggressive or less aggressive for the projects you make..

Yep, I agree with Rolf, Many people are quick and easy to suggest a saw without really knowing what the intended user will plan to cut with it.. I can't imagine trying to cut some of that paper thin wood that they use to make pictures with different types of wood etc.. Can't remember what it's called but it's real thin wood.. I think it'd be pretty tough job to do on a aggressive cutting saw like a DeWalt.. Even a lot of folks struggle with learning and trying to keep a blade cutting where they want it to.. a aggressive cutting saw just makes that harder to learn.. so in my mind the best entry level saw is going to be one that has a adjustable blade movement for less or more aggressive cutting styles.. I'd say a Pegas would be about the best fit for a new person.. Not really built like a tank like a Hawk or Hegner but very versatile saw with all the user friendly adjustments and whatnot.. seems it would be about the easiest most sensible saw for a wide variety of scrolling styles and projects one might want to try..

A little cumbersome but a C-clamp or a bench vise and some pieces of pipe or sockets can press the bearings too.. I'm sure there are many other useful ways of doing it as well..

I'll bet that made a bit of noise if you turned it on before realizing that..