kmmcrafts

Once a year might depend on a few things.. First off, the quality of blades used.. The OEM ryobi blades were crap.. I found a dealer on eBay to buy better made ( better material ) than the OEM.. and they do last a while. Once a year for blade changing isn't a very descriptive statement.. someone might only run 5 boards through in a year.. and another might run 500 boards a day.. If you run dusty gritty boards though the blades might last long enough to get 5-10 boards through it, LOL but changing the thickness of some already nice clean planed boards might last 2000 boards.. I run my planer quite a lot.. I change my blades about 1 time a year.. but about mid way through the year I flip the blades to the other side ( two sided blades ). While on the subject of blades.. You can get more life from them if you sharpen them.. I got this sharpening jig thing for Christmas a few years ago.. I know can run the same blades for a couple years.. This jig is a bit pricey.. there are videos on youtube to make your own jig using a table saw and cutting slots in a block of wood.. The jig I have is well made and actually clamps the blade in.. Sharpening Jig

I might be interested.. depending on how much it'd cost... I'm not sure how far north you are from me or what shipping it etc. might cost.. My luck the China made saw that I have probably has different bolt pattern, LOL..

I sand before and after with my Bocsh random orbital sander and have never had any issues with breaking ornaments or anything.. I use the dollar store anti slip drawer liner things to sand on and the grip the wood so it doesn't go flying, LOL I turn the sander speed down on small or fragile stuff.. and lightly place the sander onto the projects and just go easy with it.. Everything I make gets sanded before and after cutting.. Look at my website and you'll see all the things I make ( sand ).. some are quite fragile..

There are two bellows but only one is actually used as a bellows.. the other is used to keep the rocker assembly from rattling... I think you should be able to change the ( blower ) functioning one by removing the screws as Wayne said..

Just post a ad online to trade a full black toner for a empty one or two.. That might sound a bit suspicious to someone but who knows you might be able to grab a couple of empty ones for a full one so you can experiment.. Get good enough at it you might be able to run a photo though several times with the different toners and print a color photo.. just print with the magenta and then swap to yellow and run the print again, swap to cyan run it through again etc etc.. It'll be interesting to know if you'll be able to do this.. I'd like a laser printer but like you.. I'd like to be able to print patterns in red.. Inhave a color inkjet printer now but if I only use it for color things.. The ink would be dry by the time I need color.. other than the red patterns, LOL and I print enough patterns a year that it would defeat the purpose of having the laser printer.. I just need a color laser printer..

Very true.. a quality table saw and blade can make very good joints.. I bought a nice $100 ish blade for my cheap table saw and the run out is so bad and the saw was so under powered made for a pretty dangerous and Smokey situation.. Probably cooked that new blade.. LOL so in my case a cheap $25 jointer is cheaper than a better table saw..

I think there is a misunderstanding.. he has a red pattern I believe.. but a laser printer that is black and white.. and wanting to get ink so he could print it a brighter red type color.. At least that is what I got from the topic

I assume you are talking a 10 inch for planing rather than jointing? I tried running a 4" board through my small benchtop jointer / plainer and it made the board worst than it originally was, LOL I found it tough to maintain a slow steady feed rate etc.. I never run another board through it.. I use it more for smoothing and squaring up the edges of a board.. I have a regular thickness planer for the top / bottom ( surface ) of the boards and changing the thickness etc.. I personally wouldn't use a bechtop model for trying to plain.. I know they say they are a planer.. but to me for that type work.. a thickness planer is the better tool.

The biggest issue I had with nicked blades was "Staples" stores put tags etc on the boards with the price or type of wood so workers that have no clue what type of wood is from another type.. after several blade I now have learned to search the whole board for staples.. They usually are on the ends... BUT... one time there was one on the side of the board so I just inspect the edges real well before running a board through. When I first got my planer I was thinking about how much money I could save on pallet wood and other reclaimed wood.. but quickly learned how much more money they cost.. Dust, dirt, grit, etc.. will dull blades real fast.. how you use the thing and types of wood you run through will vary from one person to another.. My planer has little notches where the knife goes and there is not really much to adjust.. and I have no experience in adjusting them.. or maybe I just been lucky and get them in right every time, LOL

Two things about the Helical head planer and jointers.. I've read they take less power to run as there is not one long knife making one large cut across the whole board, but rather several small cuts.. Also since they take several small bites they are not as loud to run.. bet they are still noisy but anyway they are quieter. I've also heard they get less jams in the dust collection because they are chopping off big bits wood but rather smaller bits.. I've head since they take less energy that you can take off more wood per pass? I don't know about that but could be.. makes sense.. The plus as has already been mentioned.. if you get a nick in the knife you can spin that knife to a different edge.. The down side might be looking for what one it is, The other down side is the price for a set of knives and the time to replace all of them, LOL. They have replacements with either two sides with an edge ( cheaper ) or all 4 sides with a cutting edge.. Might be something to look for in a new one.. when pricing out what one is a better deal.. If one has 4 sided knives but only cost $20 more it might be a better value? Oops I think there was more than two points I brought up.. Oh one more thing Some of the popular name brand planers have aftermarket Helical cutter heads available.. doubt it's cheaper way to go but you can get those heads for DeWalt planers etc.. which is also an option.. I think more pricey option than just buying a planer already made that way..

Back around 2009 ish I got talked into going with all the ladies to the outlet malls.. and to my surprise they had a tool store.. I happen to be researching planers and had my heart set on a dewalt.. but then I seen the refurbished ryobi 13" planer there for $100 you bet ya.. I snagged it up since it was going to be some time before I would have enough money saved up for the DeWalt.. I figured if I could get a couple months out of it I'd be saving money from buying all those thin boards that I used to use.. Funny thing is... aside from the scroll saw it is the most used tool in my shop.. every single project I've made started with the board going through the planer.. even if it's at the right thickness if nothing else I run it to be sure it's flat and not cupped.. I'd like to have a new nicer one but this one is still running and doing a great job at it too.. That said, I'd like one with the spiral helical head.. Not sure what brand I'd get but I've heard a lot of good with those.. I think most folks are going to recommend the DeWalt.. They nice units.. If I couldn't afford one with the spiral cutter head I'd probably go for the bigger dewalt one with the 2 speed settings, and the extended infeed and outfeed tables.. But the ryobi is still kicking butt so I'm going to run it until it runs no more, LOL Don't believe Ryobi even offers a planer anymore.. When shopping be sure to check out the cost of replacement blades.. some of them get pretty pricey As for the Jointer.. I have a small 6" benchtop by Delta.. Been another one I use a lot.. I bought it at a garage sale for $25 basically new ( open box).. but it was a variable speed model and the VS circut board went out.. Obsolete part through Delta but Porter Cable is basically the same machine.. though I wasn't paying over $120 for the part with a new porter cable wasn't much more.. LOL.. That said I ended up wiring the motor direct and bypassed the VS.. I never used that VS anyway, LOL.. so I'm still using that one too..

Thank you.

Good price, I paid $329 for mine with stand and light back in 2008.. rebuilt it once for $200 in parts run it pretty hard for 10 years and then sold it for $250, LOL Scott have you ever tried the Delta version of this saw? Not exactly the same but man they are really close.. and many times they're available for $299 from Home Depot.. I would think it would operate just the same as your DW's do.. basically the same saw.. Since you buy one every year or two might be right up your alley and save a few $$ running a grey color saw instead of yellow.. LOL

Well now I found this code GIVE25 for 25% off.. LOL

FYI, Fox Chapel is running a 20% off coupon code.. Use: Thanks20

Do you change the filter every time or do you tap it outside and knock off some of the dust? I got basically the same one.. I take it outside almost every day and tap the filter on my propane tank (wearing a mask of coarse ) and there is a lot of dust blowing through the air.. falling onto the ground etc... I'd have to replace the filter 3 times a week if I was just to replace it when it's not white anymore, LOL.. I believe I read to tap it out right in the manual.. but when it changes color to the point that even after tapping it out then you need a new filter.. Well mines been that way several times now.. I then take a air hose from my compressor and blow it out.. Of coarse you need to do it from the inside toward the outside.. makes it like new again.. The filter material is getting ragged looking and I'm thinking I need to order a new one.. I'm talking about the prefilter by the way.. the cloth filter inside the body of the machine still white and looks as though it's new.. I may take it out and use the air hose just to see how much it has actually caught.. Mine is the Grizzly version but has the exact same style and control panel etc.. Pretty sure it is the same one with different badging.. Got mine on sale about 4-5 years ago.. but took me a year or more to finally put it up.. It catches a lot.. That said.. on a budget.. a box fan running with a filter does a lot too and much cheaper, LOL.. I run both and clean both filters at least a couple times a week.. Mostly from my sanders.. if I put together several projects to cut and don't run the sander.. I have very little dust on the filters... My new sander isn't nearly as good as my old one for collecting the dust in the dust canister it has.. hoping to get some sort of vac hooked up to my sander..

Yeah, some guy brought in several walnut logs to be custom sawn.. paid up front.. 15 years ago.. never picked it up.. my brother tried contacting the guy for a few years and couldn't get through.. a lot of it was rotted.. He gave it to me if I wanted to sort through and clean up the mess.. I ended up with about 200 bdft but it took a couple weeks work to sort and clean up the mess.. Got a whole lot of spalted maple and a little bit of birdseye maple.. cherry.. I actually hate to turn it away but I hate taking it too.. as it's green rough cut.. needs stickered and dried.. I've taken enough last couple years and am now just digging into some of it now that its been drying for a couple years..

Yep, It was wrapped and no wet at all.. I'm hoping they have more boxes on the way.. I ordered way more than I received but the box was completely full.. so hoping that there is some more boxes on the way.. Looks like they put 24 sheets of 1/8" in a priority flat rate box.

Been there once.. now I do as Dan says.. route first..LOL

I just use the stock bags... I bought a pack of 6 of them.. fill them up and then take the full bags to my brothers saw mill and pour them into his big sawdust pile.. he sells it to landscapers, and farms etc.. I just empty and reuse the 7 bags.. eventually the bags get a rip or snag and I have put tape on them but.. probably about time to buy some more... I've thought about getting the barrel and the dust deputy type top for it to help keep from going through those bags.. but since I just run the bags to the mill and empty them out.. I didn't really see any point in doing that.. Then I'd need 6-7 barrels, LOL I've thought about putting the bags online like FB Marketplace and sell the sawdust.. lots of people with small pets Hamsters and the like use sawdust for the bedding.. They could bring their own container or buy the bag for different price points... Probably more hassle than it'd be worth.. since my brothers mill is just 6 miles up the road.. Going to the mill always means I get to bring home a truck load of lumber cutoffs etc.. I have a hard time saying no.. and stocked on lumber for several years now.. Now.. if he only had BBply, LOL

That's the one I have.. I suppose it depends on what you think is loud, LOL.. I never had any other model or never been around one of the other ones.. so I thought it wasn't too bad for noise considering it is a big blower and motor etc.. But one day my local lumber supplier was running a CNC on display in their show room.. sat there talking to the guy running it and when the project was done carving he went over and shut off the dust collector.. it sat right behind me where I was standing and I didn't even realize it was on.. It was some small Jet model that he had there and he said they don't make that particular model anymore but it is the quietest one he's ever seen.. Just to put into perspective.. The shop vac I have is louder than the DC.. but maybe not by a whole lot.. I bought the DC hose kit from HF as well and so I have the DC all the way at the other end of the shop so the noise isn't too bad.. But then.. I only run it for the planer and badsaw with the planer running I don't hear the DC, LOL

You wouldn't want my piping set up.. as it's a temporary set up going on 4 years now. I mainly wanted it for the planer and the bandsaw but intended to hook it up to many other machines.. I bought a tubing kit from HF which came with 2 10ft flex hoses some fittings, and plastic blast gates.. Good deal if you can get a 20% coupon to boot makes it a great place to buy.. Anyway, I just have the flex hose going to my planer and one clamped to my bandsaw.. use the planer more so I leave it hooked up on that and when I need to run the bandsaw I just swap the hose on the collector to the bandsaw, LOL One day I'll set up a more permanent system... Maybe, LOL

I ordered some last week ( Thursday ) from Cherokee and it came in the mail today.. I haven't open the box up yet but they seem to be prompt on shipping... Hopefully it's good wood and also hope it didn't get wet.. Mail lady left the box out on the porch with this snow / rain mix we are getting.. Thankfully I am home most times so if they do this it's not usually out in the weather too long.. I never understood why this particular mail lady ( she's a substitute ) always leave my mail on the porch in the rain etc.. when another 20ft. is a covered porch ( lean to ) attached to my shop.. Anyway, I'll open it up later and check it out.. I was on a mission to eat lunch so I just picked it up out of the weather and put the box in my shop..

Yeah, a nice restored one goes for about 3 times what they was new, LOL

Many of the new ones are run with GPS.. not sure they even need a driver.. though I've never seen one without a driver.. I would think they would have to have a driver in there.. otherwise the ground bees wouldn't have anyone to sting when a nest gets run over during harvesting.. Though they are smart bees.. they'd probably go to the farm and sting the owner and he wouldn't know what happen, LOL