kmmcrafts

That is Awesome!! Very will done..

That's a nice phone stand, I need to make me one.. Nice phone too glad it is helpful for you.. I still have kids living at home, so I buy the cheapest phones I can find and use the Straightalk service.. Currently using a iphone 5S... everyone says man that phone still works and is usable.. Yeah I do most my pictures and videos with it.. LOL Get anything newer and it'd probably run my scroll saw for me.. Like you say... technology advancement and what these new phones can do is amazing..

He posted in the deals section a while back and the price in that thread is $137.. I assume + shipping..

Even with the labels I still use the Shelf liner... Though if your work isn't too fragile you can use a heat gun to loosen it off the wood directly.. but if the wood is not super smooth I've had cases of the labels not sticking real well.. the labels I use aren't super glue sticky like the spray glues are.. but they are way less messy in my opinion.. It's not real practical to use them if you just buy a few labels at a time from the store because they are pricey that way.. I buy them from the eBay link I posted earlier but he does sell smaller quantities and you can shop around to find a decent deal.. I came up with this by accident my first time.. as I use the labels to print m shipping labels and one day the printer had labels in it instead of regular paper.. been using them whenever possible ever since then, LOL.. I would buy a very small quantity first to see if you like them.. unless you have a use for them anyway..

The last can I bought is the 3M 45.. I just used it the first time the other day as I had a big pattern to do that wouldn't fit my full sheet shipping label size.. seemed to work good.. You are certainly correct about the 3M77.. we use that stuff in the autobody repair shops to glue molding and emblems back on cars / trucks etc.. they stay on even through those high powered car washes etc.. We also used to use the 3M-45 back in the day to stick sanding pads to the DA sanders.. Now days the disc papers come with adhesive.. I remember one of the guys in the shop ran out of 3M-45 so he used the 3M 77 for the sander.. Hahahahaha... ruined his sanding pad on his sander.. pulled the paper off and half his rubber sanding pad came with it...

I think the Delta is basically the same as the DeWalt isn't it? Most saws these days require no maintenance.. They are sealed but not sealed, LOL.. Basically they are open needle bearings inside the case of the saw.. so inside the saw they claim is sealed... while not a lot of dust etc is inside them when I have taken them apart.. they still do have some.. I think if you watched the videos for doing the Dewalt saws you'll find that the Delta is the same inside the case once you pull the covers off.. From the factory they put very little grease on those bearings.. and it's not a bad idea to pull one apart and grease it up after a year of running it a moderate amount.. Now if you cut like Iggy or I then you might need to do it at about the 6 month timeline.. I think once one cleans out the old cheap grease and adds a quality synthetic grease you could probably run it a couple years between grease jobs.. The manufacture says no maintenance but when it wears out they are happy to sell you new bearing assemblies which cost nearly the same as a new saw.. so really they build them to not really last real long.. A quality saw like Hawk and Hegner do not have all the covers and you can put a few drops of oil on them every 25 ish hours use... run them for years before they need any bearings.. I will say the assemblies for the EX- Pegas types saws are not so pricey like they are with the DeWalt / Delta saws.. so it's worth buying the $120 -150 in parts.. If yu mechanical inclined you take a new or lightly used saw and clean up the bearings etc and add your good grease .. you have a good saw for a few years.. and not cost nothing but a half day of tinkering and very little bit of grease.. wait until you start making sounds.. too late.. at least some of the bearing will need replaced..

Appears to be the same width? just about 7-8" longer from looking at the photo. Nice to see a picture of one.. I'm torn on the vacuum holes or not.. I'm probably the only person that hooked up a vac to the port on these and actually liked it other than the loud vacuum running.. I bought the Seyco vac.. and I do like it but it's not enough power to put a T fitting in and get an above table collection.. I used a powerful shop vac hooked to the existing port on my EX-21 and it did very well at getting even a lot of it from the top side... The downside was it does suck the project down to the table and you have to keep it really slick ( coated with wax good ) suspect that's why the paint worn off my table so quickly too maybe.. The Seyco dust collector works decent and a lot quieter than my big ol shop vac.. but needs some sort of above the table collection.. Kinda wish i had gone the higher priced route and bought a Fein or Festool quiet vac and run both top and bottom collection.. long hose so it could go through my ceiling and park the vac upstairs in my loft.. LOL Another thing that helps a lot with the dust above the table is putting the blade in right side up... Don't ask , I just was getting a lot more dust than normal and thought my little Seyco was plugged up and checking everything... except the blade.. when the blade got dull and I removed it.. I noticed something was odd about it.. then it hit me.. Guess what.. put it back in the right way and it was sharp on that end.. Got double life out of that blade.. Anyway, Looks like a nice upgrade... Guessing it's not available with the holes at all.. since most people don't like them, LOL..

I use latex gloves like hospitals now for what little of the spray glue I use these days.. But once you touch the pattern with glue on it even if I have another pattern to do.. most times I have to throw them out before each pattern cause they get real sticky.. seems like a waist and something to fill that landfills with...it's worst than when just getting it onto my fingers.. I think because it soaks into my skin some.. and no texture or anything on those gloves.. I use the gloves for dipping projects in Danish oil. But I take them off carefully and can re-use them several times..

Doesn't the over spray on the liner / tape where the pattern paper doesn't cover get on your hands? I cut the pattern out of the sheet of paper so I can arrange them on a larger board with other patterns also attached.. I suppose this would work great on portraits.. as you can cover the whole board with the pattern paper.. not so much with say ornaments and you need several ornaments on a 8 x 8 blank.. usually stacked 5-6 1/8" pieces and you can place about 4-6 ornament patterns on the stack.. Anyway.. I'm still sold on printing the pattern on full sheet shipping labels.. I use the labels for mailing my orders out so I buy / use them anyway..

I turn upside down and spray until it cleans out the glue in the suction system and also wipe off the nozzle.. I still get a clogged up nozzle before the can is empty.. Possibly something to do with the climate we have? as the same thing happens to spray paint cans if they are left out in the unheated shop.. No biggy to me because I like the peel and stick so much better than the spray anyway.. even if the can would work all the way until it's empty I'd still choose the labels.. I know it's not for everyone just as the spray isn't for me.. It's messy.. My thumb gets sticky adhesive all over it then my finger print ready on all my devices won't read my print to unlock them etc etc.. so for me.. it's peel and stick labels..

I don't do too many of the larger things so I do use the glue for that... IF I did a lot of larger works.. I would buy them in 11 x 17 sheets.. They are harder to find in those larger sizes but I did find a company that sells them.. Now if I could remember who that company was I would link it.. I'm sure you could find something using google search though.. Two benefits for me with smaller stuff is.. it's easier to ship smaller things and the shipping label 8.5 x 11 work well, LOL

I've probably used every brand out there.. and hate all of them, LOL BUT I have to use it for the larger projects.. The worst one I used was Elmers.. and it worked well but you really have to spray a heavy mount on so even though the can was cheaper I used the can up much faster because I had to spray it so heavy.. and just about the same results with the Gorilla brand.. not quite as bad as elmers.. 3M 77 is good stuff but before the can gets completely used up it seems the nozzle plugs up.. even turning the can upside down and draining it out each time.. I've heard soaking the nozzles is some solvents will keep them clean and clog free. 3M-45 seems to be the better one.. That's just my opinion.. Also my opinion is.. I hate the messy spray glues.. I use self adhesive full sheet shipping labels.. no spray glue mess.. no sticky fingers from the spray glue etc etc etc... I buy them from eBay.. The larger quantity the lower the per sheet cost ends up being.. I buy either the 500 or 1000 sheets at a time.. which ends up actually being cheaper than the glue and papers.. How many papers do you get from a $10 can of spray? I used to go through 4-5 cans a year.. at a minimum.. plus add the paper.. I see this seller has raised prices.. you may shop around.. I was getting 1000 sheets at $55 but this link is the stuff I use https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Shipping-Labels-Full-Sheet-8-5x11-Self-Adhesive-PACKZON/172818314778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Love adding personalized names etc to the military clocks I make as well as the cars.. I've made a lot of personalized items for our service men / women and try to include a ornament themed toward the clock they ordered as a gift from me.. The thought of them being stationed out of the US away from family/friends and receiving these gifts I made makes a warm feeling in my heart.. It also puts a little $$ in my pocket with family buying these gifts for there military family / friends so it's a win win for me.. but money aside.. I really just enjoy doing this for them..

In a couple instances I have used them as painting templates.. LOL Other than that... I just toss them out.. They only come off in one piece if you're using shelf liner.. and sometimes break even then.. On a side note.. the other day I was cutting a custom ornament and instead of getting the 12" wide shelf liner out for a 4" square piece I just used the old trusty painters tape.. It sure reminded me how much nicer the shelf liner is when peeling off the pattern.. glad is was only about two strips of tape and not a whole portrait or something.. Boy it used to take almost as long to peel that tape off as it did to cut the pattern back in the painter tape days, LOL

Yes they are more brittle that any other blade I've used.. I don't use much small blades under the #3 in the MG blade line.. I do use spirals in 2/0 and 3/0 though but I use FD spirals.. Also like to mention that I think the Pegas blade number sizes run a bit smaller than FD and Olsen blades..

Hey I remember these... Nice work.. Looks like they're made from Oak? Are you working with other types of wood these days? LOL I don't know much about the cribbage game, but the folks on the CNC forums talk about they sell out on those cribbage boards.. They've shared a few designs that can be done with the CNC... Those designs would be something I sure wouldn't want to do on a drill press as many holes as they show.. but maybe some smaller designs could work and sell well.. Good luck with them.. look quite simple to make..

I use both... but it's been a long time ago since I used spiral blades for just cutting.. In using them solely for cutting it's usually cutting large portraits and I just don't sell / make many of those anymore.. I do use them quite often for veining... But I pre-cut the area with a flat blade then go back over it with a spiral.. The spiral blade will pretty much follow the path of the cut the flat blade made....so I use them quite a lot to make the wider body lines in my car clocks I make.. I need to do another portrait style cutting one of these days.. I really enjoy cutting portraits but they just don't sell very well so I don't make many..

I thought I read somewhere that all mineral oil was food grade? FYI Baby oil is nothing more than just mineral oil with the baby scent added to it..

I buy it at Walmart.. it's usually in the stomach medicine areas.. Most all stores that sell medicine will probably have it. I use it to make butcher block wax with it.. by melting beeswax in with it to create a paste like wax treatment for cutting boards etc.. I used to use the mix s a finish for a few years.. I would never recommend just plain old mineral oil as a finish but folks do it and I guess it works for the short time frame to get rid of them.. It can and will dry out and leave the wood as if there is not finish over a period of time...

I don't know this for fact... it's only what i have read on various sites... including toy making sites.. All wood finishes and paints sold in the USA is technically child safe once fully cured... I use the Danish oil rather than a top coat for puzzles because Danish oil has a small amount of polyurethane in it to help protect the wood... technically it's quite a process to get a top coat on all sides of the puzzle pieces... and there is no real simple solution to finishing / sealing them.. The Danish oil is a better choice ( matter of opinion I suppose ) than mineral oil because it does have the small amount of poly to help protect and offer a slight amount of sealing.. not very much poly though so this sealing is minimal amounts but better than just oil IMO... While you have no control over what a person that buys the puzzle does with it.. I personally wouldn't recommend someone giving them to children small enough that is still putting things in their mouths anyway.. Each of my puzzles has a Choking Warning card in it so they shouldn't be giving them to small children anyway..

Mineral oil never does dry.. It just soaks into the wood or evaporates.. I do not use mineral oil by itself for that reason.. The problem with mineral oil in my opinion is that at any given time it can sweat back out of the wood pores during heat or humidity changes.. as a experiment take your so called dry piece and throw some heat on it with a hair drier or heat gun see if it starts leaking and puddling up beads of oil from out of the woods grain... This is why I use Danish oil... it is designed to be a finish and has a small amount of polyurethane in it to sort of put a very thin protective film over the wood.. You'll get the same grain popping oil finish look but one that is designed to be a finish with a protective film .

Yes, they do charge shipping.. Though I do believe they are at least fair with shipping cost unlike many places where they charge a $8-10 minimum and then mail a 2 ounce item first class which only cost $3.00

I also give a shout out to Denny at artcrafters and also Wooden Teddybear.. I had a special custom order for a clock that needed a specific size movement and WTB had the best price.. I had never ordered from them before so I was quite surprised that the clocks showed up in 3 days.. ordered some clocks from Klockit too on the same day.. but they took over a week.. and Klockit is just across the lake from me, LOL

Probably worth it if everything is working order.. There is also one of these on Craigslist here in MI for $100