kmmcrafts

Welcome to the village, I'm glad you chimed in... I'll have to look at the Mirka sander.. never heard of that brand before.. As for masking up... I do not enter the shop without a mask.. wear one the entire time I'm in the shop even if I'm not really doing anything to create a dust cloud.. Just second nature to me...

I kind of figured those downdraft tables probably loose suction outside of the area where the hose is attached.. It'd be pretty tricky to get a solid even suction throughout the entire area.. Thanks for the thoughts and the experiment idea.. I've kinda figured that'd be how it would work out..

Interesting you say this... what kind of sander do you run? I ask because my sander ( Bosch ) came with a fitting to hook up a vac to it instead of using the dust canister.. However.. I hooked up the vac yesterday and while it did help some from what I was getting with the dust can.. my shop was still getting a fair amount of dust.. I suspect I have a blown seal or something in the sander.. My old Bosch was awesome for collecting the dust in the canister.. this new one seeped a little but no bad.. but it's getting bad.. The whole point of me buying the Bosch again was I was very happy with performance and dust collection.. Like I said.. I bought a cheap Harbor Freight sander and had to quit using it like the first day because not much of the dust was getting collected in the canister, so I ordered a new / refurbished Bosch just like the one I had.. Another annoyance for me was the dang Vac hose was always in my way.. which is why I wondered about the downdraft table.. Very tempted to take both my old and my new sander apart and maybe put the new sander motor in the old sanders body.. LOL Since I'm in production mode most of the time I do things in batches.. There are days that I might spend 4 hours pre-sanding boards and finish sanding projects.. The other half of the day is usually cleaning up the sawdust off everything, LOL didn't used to have to do that.. I'm looking at putting heat un my shop.. and I can't have all this fine dust floating about and causing issues.. not to mention fire hazards.. If a downdraft box works well I may go that route.. Not at a point where I can justify a Festool sander and vac just yet, LOL

Anyone have / use one that can share how well it works etc.. The cause of most airborne dust in my shop and probably any shop is from sanding.. I have a Bosch R/O sander and it has a filtered dust canister... My first one did a great job of collecting that sanding dust.. But it wore out.. I bought a new / refurb. one last spring and it did seep a little more dust that my other one did but was tolerable.. recently ( maybe the colder weather ) this thing is spewing dust out.. Before I bought the refurb.. I bought a HF model and that was was really bad too.. my refurb isn't quite that bad but I'm noticing a lot of dust settling and my air filtration filter needing cleaned way more often.. I'm wondering if a downdraft table would be the ticket.. It seems the dust is escaping the sanders through the vent holes in the side of the sander near the bottom by the sanding pad.. I haven't taken the thing apart to see if there is a broken seal or something.. I just know that I need to get this taken care of in some way... I've often wondered about the downdraft tables.. I've never seen much talk of them so who has one or used one? Any thoughts on them.. Thank you

I'd buy another new Hawk again.. Typically my go to blade is a Pegas MG #3.. Mostly cut 5/8" material whether it's stack cutting several thin pieces of ply or hardwood.. My go to used to be the #5 but I find the #3 actually cuts faster and leaves a smoother edge.. Those PGT blades are nice blades too.. What I dislike about them is the smallest size they make is a #5 and they are kind of a big #5 compared to other brands and styles.. They are also kind on the pricey side.. Great blades though and last a long time.. Just not ideal blades for my type of projects..

I'd buy another Hawk.. This time I'd go with the BM-220 since I already just purchased a BM-226 a couple years ago.. That said, someday I would like to try a Hegner.. hear a lot about them.. seen a few and had a chance to get a nice barely used 14" for $40 at a estate sale.. I should have got it.. but I was being my stubborn self and said I didn't need it because at the time I had three Hawks a EX. Dewalt and a Delta, LOL.. still have them all except the DeWalt.. Now that I have the newest Hawk dialed in and did some upgrades to my oldest Hawk.. Ultra has always works great for me.. but I rebuilt that EX- have about 25 hours on since the rebuild.. really don't even use it.. Been thinking I need to send it to someone that would use it..

From what I read online.. there is a lot of love hate on those old round clamps for the Hawks... Some folks hate them while others love them.. I personally have no issue with them.. to me they are no different than any of the other saws that have the removable clamps.. I have both the old round style clamp saw and the Ultra square style and a brand new Hawk with new style.. I didn't get any extra clamps with the new saw which for me was a bit disappointing.. I do a lot of work with cutting with a flat blade and follow up with a spiral for veining... Having those extra loaded clamps make for a quick change out to a different style / size blade when needed.. I tend to use the old round clamp saw that's 27 years old or the Ultra Hawk more than I do for the new saw or the EX-21.. just more convenient to me for the pre-loaded blades.. I need to order some extra holders for that new Hawk and use it, LOL..

I also have a lot of those clamps... I just missing the Hegner and Jet saws though, guys.. Hint

Think you are right.. and I would never put a full name out on anywhere online or otherwise.. as well as address's even if there is no name associated with a address.. I've made a whole lot of laser engraved personalized ornaments in the last couple weeks.. all of which are engraved pictures.. of dogs, people, and one with a key with the top of the key shaped like a house that says First Christmas In My New House ( Address ) 2020.. The engraved stuff because it's easier to personalize etc.. seems to have been a very smart move for more business...

If you're not able to make your own.. This is the RBI Hawk lower clamps.. http://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/lower-barrel-style-blade-holder/ Also the newer Jet scroll saw uses one real similar.. slightly smaller in diameter but the same basic thing.. https://www.rockler.com/3-pack-lower-blade-holders-for-jet-jwss-22-22-scroll-saw?country=US&sid=V91040&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjw59n8BRD2ARIsAAmgPmIvykSgVkEGrxZAo-pFSh-EbHsFGp0bfWr1tXDZQPP7FmRzr8tvdXwaAq97EALw_wcB

Good suggestion.. Thanks

Yeah that was what I had planned to do at some point.. Thanks for the suggestion.. though.. I've seen a few of the guys on the laser forums running those little lab jacks..

BUT, I do recall folks saying they'd never use a cell phone... then they'd never text as a phone is for calling.. and then why do they need a camera on a phone.. I'd never bank or shop from a phone.. I guess it is progress... but with progress comes change.. ie.. websites didn't used to be phone friendly.. I remember not too long ago having to scramble around to get my website mobile friendly.. which needed a change of ALL photo size requirements etc so they'd work on a phone as well as a PC.. so in all progress is change or change is progress hmm confusing myself more than I already was, LOL For what it's worth, 70+ % of my shoppers shop from a mobile device.. just 4 years ago that was just 18%

I like change... especially when you "really" think about it... Just take a step back for a minute and think.. Big ol dinosaur computers and dial up internet.. rather browse the web with that computer on dial-up internet or like the changes and now use a mobile device for browsing the net, LOL Change you minds now? LOL

I've never had any issues with the screw type clamps.. nor any issues with older types like the old quickset II clamps that Delta saws used to use.. I will say I am intrigued with the new upper clamp system on the newer Jet saws... But I may not be if i actually used one for a while..

The stands I believe are no different than the other saws.. so while you may not be able to get one through Pegas... you may be able to find one in stock at a woodcraft or other store that carries those other brands.. When I buy a Pegas, I'll be selling my Ex-21 and keeping the stand so I would only need a saw.. I've been really thinking about selling the Ex now that I have it rebuilt and running decent.. I don't think it's completely right still especially at the highest speed I feel something isn't quite right..

Yeah, I totally agree with you there..

It shows you're in SE MI.. so could be a drive for you.. It's a bit of a drive (40 -45 minutes ) from me but I buy a lot of stuff there.. they put you in their system and the more you buy the better pricing they give to loyal customers.. I pay $12 for a 5ft x 5ft sheet of 1/8" and about $15 for 1/4".. Never bought the 3/8 so I don't know.. Anyway this place is in Charlotte MI.. so I'm not sure in relation to you this is.. There may be a place near you with these kind of prices.. I haven't bought any in just over a year so maybe the prices have went up some too.. The place is LLJohnson Here is a link to the site.. you can look up the prices online but not order http://www.theworkbench.com/ EDIT: They have raised the prices since I last looked. It was $12 sheet for 1 sheet pricing just a couple years.. maybe last year..

When I sand my BB ply or any solid timber I start sanding with 80 grit.. I sand it both sides and work my way up to 320 grit.. That 80 grit removes any loose fibers all together and gets me down to a good solid foundation.. But of course you can't sand normal plywood like that because the laminate layer is way too thin.. but I've never had a issue with the normal plywood either.. as it's already quite smooth etc.. but BB ply is almost never super smooth.. especially after it has sat around for a while.. I buy in bulk to save money.. typically 20 5ft x 5ft sheets at a time. Try to buy enough to last me a full year.. however that never usually works out like that for me and I end up making another trip to pick up a couple more sheets.. The place I buy runs a huge sale every year. I try to buy all my stuff at that sale to last me through the next year..

I've been meaning to try this.. well years ago I did try and failed.. Local hardware gave me some scraps.. actually was pretty big scraps which would be great for scrolling on.. Anyway I had very little no how of scrolling wood at that time and figuring what blade to use etc.. I melted he blade to the plastic and then it started bouncing up and down and broke the plastic.. Scared the crap out of me and I haven't touched it since.. Now that I'm a little smarter.. a #7 ultra rev. blade on 1/8" plastic at high speed was probably not the best idea, If I fail again... I have a back-up plan.. The laser cuts the stuff like butter and leaves a very smooth edge.. They say the smell is horrendous though, LOL

You may want to read your manual for the planer you have.. My planer manual states to not go no less than 1/8 but also states that you should take very light passes with anything less than 1/4".. I've taken boards down to 3/16.. but I've also took really light passes.. I've read on the forums in the past that you should be very careful going down to those thin boards.. many say going to that thin of board you're better off with a drum sander.. I run my planer a lot.. but I usually just run it down to 5/8 or so.. rarely go less than 3/8.. so I'm no expert.. just stating what I've read in my manual and also what I've observed on forums.. Wayne also made a good point about paying attention to the grain direction.. I forget to look at the grain sometimes and it'll get a lot of chip out.. so I start the board on the opposite end.. I generally do that on my first or second pass and if I'm getting chip out change the board end for end.. and or take light passes...

There are many brands under that same style of saw.. BUT.. the working parts on the inside are different among the others.. Of this style of saw.. I believe with the larger bearing in the pivot arm at the back of the saw would make this saw more robust over those other brands so I would definitely say the Pegas would be my choice.. Also would work with Denny from Artcrafters for my purchase first.. as I like to support the small business man if / when I can..

While you'd need to make sure you got the right sized pin.. most hardware stores should have the pin.. and probably less than $0.50.. That said.. It's good on them to send you a new whole assembly as those pins don't just fall out.. and if it did.. it may have damage to the hole that it goes through being wallowed out some by running it and not knowing it was coming out.. so even a new pin may fall out again.. should be a snug fit.. I would go with installing the assembly.. I have a feeling they might be thinking the same thing as me about the hole being wallowed out.. Otherwise I'd think they'd just get a pin and send you that..

A couple years ago when I was thinking about a new table saw.. I had a couple people say they really liked this saw from Lowes... It appears to not be available here in my area and it looks like they are discontinuing it.. as they have a different one the same price point.. Maybe if you check around it could be bought cheaper as a clearance model? https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-13-Amp-Table-Saw/1000875384 This is the saw I think might be replacing that one.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Contractor-Saws-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Table-Saw/1001385562 I know very little about table saws.. so maybe this is nothing like you're looking for.. but it's closest to the price point you mentioned.. I know it's a lot nicer than my old cheap saw.. and this first link was what I had my mind set on when my bearing went out on mine.. I repaired it so never bit the bullet..

My saw is a 25 year old piece of light weight junk Tradesman brand that I bought new for a project I was working with.. before my woodworking days.. I don't do any precision type work with it so it's not an issue.. Doesn't change the fact that I hate that saw.. but at the same time I'd be lost without it.. as about 6 years ago a bearing went out in the transmission and dang near smoked the motor before I got it shut down.. Took it apart and found that bad bearing.. New bearing and it's been running well ever since.. for its current position in my shop which it just rough cutting BBply down to usable sized blanks for stack cutting ornaments and other things that I use the ply for.. The motor is weak after the bearing deal.. so I assume it did some damage to it.. Can't cut through hardwood with it but works well for the ply which is more of what I use it for anyway.. I'll be watching this topic though.. as I would like a new saw but not wanting to spend a lot of money either.. but if I had a better saw.. I'd use it for making more precise things..