kmmcrafts

Every woodworker I've ever talked to that has had both the belt drive saw like Ray shows in his link and the direct drive all say the old-school belt drive is the only way to go.. Just as Ray said.. There are alot of end play in the bearings and shaft of these motors.. even if it is a good tight motor when brand new.. give it a few years and tell me what you think then.. I don't think you can buy a saw with the motor hanging off the back like that anymore.. Too bad too.. you can't beat them old saws.. built like a tank..

I have to agree with you on the DeWalt being a really good saw.. ONCE IT HAS BEEN GREASED!.. I miss my old DW.. that saw was a workhorse after I took it apart and replaced every bearing / sleeve with high quality bearings and sleeves and good synthetic grease.. that saw production cut for a good 5 years before it started showing signs of another rebuild coming.. I ordered the new bearings etc and was ready to take it apart.. when the Excalibur deal showed up. Wasn't happy with the EX but these China made ones are pure junk.. Don't buy one.. not even a used one, LOL I now have it running good but it took replacing everything inside the saw and the blade holders etc to get it right.. I wouldn't say it's still perfect but much better than it was.. IF I where looking at buying a new saw again.. on a budget I'd go with DeWalt.. otherwise I'd go with another Hawk.. From my experience with the saws.. I have not had a Pegas or a Hegner.. so can't really comment on them from experience.. But best budget saw to me would be the DeWalt hands down.. but upgrade it with the Jim Dandy easy lift..

I agree and I'll take that a step further and say.. IF you are NOT mechanical I suggest a Seyco over the others even though the Seyco would be my last choice of those you mentioned for various reasons.. But anyway Ray tunes the saws before they get shipped out.. and I believe he is the "only one" doing that.. Pegas or Hegner would be my own personal choice.. Actually Hawk for me but then.. there is the poor customer service and getting parts issues for those that don't realize that the company is run by farmers who care more about the farm than getting your parts made.. Great saws they build but when you need a part you might wait.

So you think they skip quality control for Lowes? It would be more believeable if box stores was assembling them.. Kind of like Walmart having young kids that aren't mechanical inclined assemble bicycles.. ( I bought one several years ago for my oldest son and the front tire was falling off before I got it to the car, turns out they seem to have tightened all the nuts / bolts etc. without any tools.. just finger tight, ).. 4 years later the same thing with my daughters first bike.. probably the same kid assembling them LOL.. Now.. possible the forklift truck driver rammed the box.. Almost everything I've bought in the last 5 years that was big and heavy had been banged up.. most times the box was all busted up but not always.. Supposed to have a forklift license to drive them.. ( I have one and drove for nearly 10 years full time ) I'm not sure if they have the same rules they used to or if they just can't get people that care about the job and " want to work their way up the ladder at a company " .. Before I quit working for others and became self employed 30 years ago new people come to the job and refuse to push a broom because the guys that had been there 50 years and fixing to retire never had to sweep.. People come to a job and are entitled to something in their first week.. This is what happens when the parents and schools give out 1st - last place trophies... everyone is entitled to something.. I say most of them are barely entitled to the paycheck they are getting because they barely worked for it.. Anyway back on topic.. I think it's more about the quality control at the factory.. and the luck of the draw.. certainly have issues and things with most every brand happen.. but when you see this kind of thing more and more.. you have to wonder who is the quality control or better yet.. the foreman of QC.. or the foreman's boss.. it goes right up the management line.. I personally am not afraid to buy Delta tools because I am my own repair kinda guy.. probably a little too far with it as I fix things that I most likely should have just returned and or exchanged..

PSWood scroll saws are also Made in the USA.. I don't know a lot about them.. Right now supposedly they have been redesigning some parts of the saw and do not have anything in stock.. I don't know a lot about the saws.. But those that have them seem to like them.. http://www.pswood.com/scroll-saws/

I guess I make a wide array of things to mostly use up most all my wood.. very seldom do I have a scrap larger than 1".. I pretty much make use of all the lumber. I make enough clocks and the bases are quite small to use up my small pieces.. Some things I wanted to make from small pieces was phone stands.. Sue May has many patterns.. they only use a small amount of wood.. But I've never had enough small scraps to really go into a production mode with the stands.. so in two years and buying several of the patterns.. I've only made about 3 of them.. Seem like they'd be good sellers if I could ever get enough variety of styles made to put on the website.. So far the ones I did make sold to friends or family so have yet put online.. most of the patterns require the 1/2 - 3/4 thickness so you'd not have to worry about ornaments etc. being to thick Trivets come to mind too,

The bigger issue with Delta is parts.. Not IF you need parts.. but when you need parts.. they may not be available anymore.. Delta in the recent years could care less if the saw is only a year old.. they don't support the parts.. Service IMO is going to vary depending on the management of the service center.. but they are only as good as the parts availability can take them too.. These service centers aren't like me.. I cross reference parts and do extensive searching to find what I need to repair something.. But these "Delta" service centers are going to look up the "Delta" part number and it says OBSOLETE.. they will say they can't help you.. even though the part many times is used across many " other" brands and tools.. I have a 2010 ish Delta jointer.. has variable speed for the motor.. but I never used it however the thing started running slow.. no matter where the dial was it didn't change... would have been fine if it were stuck on high, LOL.. The part no longer available.. but crossing the part over I found that Porter Cable used the same part as did a few others.. I wasn't going to pay $150 for the part though so I just rewired it to run full speed.. My point is.. a service center would have said to put it in the landfill.. I do most my own repairs so I'm not too worried about service centers.. but parts availability would be a plus in buying something.. and Delta seems to lack very badly in that aspect.. Just know.. if you buy it.. you might be throwing it away when it comes time to need a part.. and sometimes those parts aren't even available on brand new equipment.. even a week old.. the plus is you could return it.. a year old you might be out of luck though.

I agree 100% BUT I'll also say we need to shop intelligently too.. This means rather than shopping China made stuff at HF.. maybe seek out American made stuff...

Old Delta tools were some good tools, and once was a respected name. I wouldn't be too afraid of a new delta scroll saw simply because they are basically the same saw as a DeWalt.. I also think the tools are still decent tools, however the customer support is what lacks the most.. and by that I mean parts availability.. They seem to think there tools should be throw away and the person buys a new tool instead of repairing the old.. The best scroll saw in my book is the ones that support old equipment for several years, one that has parts readily available to order through their dealers and distributors... and the only ones I know of that sells parts for old equipment and have easy online ordering of the said parts is Hawk, and Hegner.. That said though.. you may have to wait for the parts to be made on those older saws.. but they are willing to actually "Make Them" instead of saying sorry just buy a new saw... Now other saw brands have parts available online such as Seyco and excalibur.. But the old saws from the 80's and 90s they can no longer help you with parts.. and that is where Hawk and Hegner stand above the others in my opinion.. Now for me, Hawk shines above Hegners because the whole saw is just machined.. no casting done.. and I have enough machinist friends and family that if I ever was to need a part for a old saw and couldn't for some reason be able to get the part from Hawk.. I could have a friend machine the said part if it came to that.. The other benefit is it's a American company and a American saw.. Built to last.. I also like to support the American companies as best I can..

That's what I was thinking.. many folks don't know how to sharpen a drill bit.. In that case.. there are tools that can make the task simple.. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200320239_200320239?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Power Tools > Sharpeners %2B Accessories > Drill Bit Sharpeners&utm_campaign=Drill Doctor&utm_content=1560960&gclid=Cj0KCQiAlZH_BRCgARIsAAZHSBnbfLH2urry2WsjjhwSkZe823sc_qe57R4hsRNxxZi4zsFneh0a6bUaAjM9EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds then again drill bits are cheap for the most part..

Same here, used to always use the ones from Mike's and yes, you'd get a couple straight ones out of a dozen.. Those Mascot ones have all been great so far.. Have not bought or used what Denny sells.. Also like how the Mascot ones was packaged in the little test tubes opposed to the ziplock baggies that I would get from Mikes..

I don't see any reason why you'd change it.. not broke yet.. I used to use the 1/16" bits from HF.. came in a pack of 5? I think.. never had a problem with them.. Now days though, I rarely use anything bigger than a #60 and I haven't found those small ones anywhere local other than Menards.. which are also okay bits but pricey.. Last bits I bought I got a bunch of them.. they was purchased a few years ago from DnD sawblades.. Can't remember but I think they are Mascot brand..

First time I made the 50/50 BLO I mixed it up in a plastic recycled rainX windshield washer solvent gallon jug.. The mix sort of melted and deformed the jug.. It took it several days to do so but none the less it was softening the jug.. so with that said.. Not sure if they have metal spray bottles or sprayers.. depending on the type of plastic it might melt.. and it may not melt the bottle but maybe the sprayer parts of it.. Worth a try though I suppose.. just be aware of this possibility.

WOW! that turned out nice, I'm surprised that you was able to get it done. I knew you was busy with the caregiving per our PM's and I figured it'd be a longer time before I seen the final product.. I bet the scrolling helped ease some stress from the caregiving.. Gotta take some time to relax and do some scrolling every now and then.. glad you was able to do just that. Take care of yourself.. you can't be a caregiver when you're down too.

I see them from $600 - 1000 in my area.. BUT.. really hard to put a value on a saw that you have no idea what it might come with.. Many times people will put a value without knowing if it comes with the stand, extra clamps, and the quick clamps.. many accessories and options can really add up the value or take away value.. I don't know Hegners too well, But I would look over the obvious things that might give normal wear or dry rot with age.. Inspect the bellows for dry rot , cracks and function.. while to some the bellows is no big deal.. until it stops working.. Hegner bellows aren't cheap, but yes there are work arounds and other cheaper ways to repair.. my point is look it over for bargaining. You don't want to pay top dollar and then have to replace parts or fuss with workarounds to make the saw usable right as soon as you get it home.. As I understand it Hegners have different size blade holders? make sure the one "you would use" comes with it... extras would be nice too but you want to bring home a saw that you can get to work when you get it home.. If no extra holders or not the one you'd need.. Bargain on that fact.. I would test run the saw, run the variable speed dial from slow to fast with and without a load on it.. Basically go to look at it with a level head.. many people get all hipped about a Hegner at a cheaper price because they are expensive saws.. Just remember parts for them are expensive too.. maybe go look on the website at the parts list.. how much is a replacement bellows, blader holders etc etc.. Nothing wrong with buying a saw without the stand or with a dry rotted bellows.. so long as you don't pay too much.. I've bought non-working saws and brought them to life with very few dollars and was able to sell it and make someone a good saw at a good price.

Check the motor brushes??

Are you guys using the Shellac flakes or just a quart of shellac already for spraying but then dilute that even more.. I'm guessing you're using the quart?

I have that same problem... quite often too.. Glad you figured it out..

What exactly is the trouble you're having? slippage? breaking? Not getting it tight enough? Or being able to tighten the thumb screws because of the small T handles as doug is talking about.. Pegas makes a nicer blade chuck for the Ex.. I put them on mine and wouldn't ever go back to the cheap made stock blade chucks.. Have you changed the set screw and rotating pin in the end of the thumb screw? I seem to have a lot of issues with my EX-21 both the stock clamps and the Pegas clamps seems like I am always having to sand the tips down as they get worn.. Never had this issue with my DeWalt.. or the Hawks.. I at first played it off to the cheap original set.. but found that the Pegas chucks are also very fussy with wearing the tips down.. I know I saw a lot more than I did back in the DeWalt days.. but I mostly use the Hawk.. and you'd think if it was a normal wear and tare then I'd have the same thing going on with the Hawk..

Fretwork and portrait type works is probably my favorite thing to cut.. BUT.. I also want to make stuff that sells.. since I'm doing this as a job / income.. I find portraits are hard to sell as is many other types of scrolled work and make a profit.. I know there are folks making "some money" on portrait type and those other time consuming projects.. But some money isn't good enough for me to help feed my family either.. so I cut and make the things that seem to sell fairly well ( at least for me, your mileage may vary from mine ).

I cannot remember what mine is, LOL.. Been a while since I've used it.. They no longer make the brand but the parts and pens from either colwood or razortip fits my machine.. Nothing better than a quality burners set.. I used to use one of those cheap hobby lobby type big bulky burner sets.. but these higher end machines have much better heat control and the pen isn't a huge heavy thing to hold onto.. almost like using a regular ink pen.. well worth the money if you're getting into burning..

I agree, that said though.. I've had many people on etsy ask me if I would make them unfinished for them.. as they want to paint them for a different project or let the kids color them or paint them.. My kids used to love to use markers and color the ornaments.. They would have me make stars and various shapes so they could color on them.. and hang them on their wall.. So there is quite a market out there for unfinished ornaments..

I figure with ornaments you're not handling them much.. I mean.. you get them out and put them on the tree.. they hang there for a few weeks and then you put them away.. I don't see any need to top coat ornaments.. Just my opinion.. You know.. those puzzles are in some cases played with.. handled a lot.. and many folks just use mineral oil, LOL At least Danish oil does have a small amount of poly in it for a little more protection.. A cutting board just has mineral oil on it.. sometimes a beeswax mineral oil mix.. it gets use and cutting acidic fruits and veggies on it, gets handled, washed etc.. and you only replenish the oil or renew it every 3-6 weeks.. so my point is.. why would you need a top coat for a ornament that as I said.. handled a couple times a year.. I've never top coated over Danish oil other than on a rare occasion for my clocks.. Sometimes ( many times actually ) I dip my clocks two times.. about a week or so apart.. if I'm just putting it into my inventory.. If I gotta ship it out then just one coat and or my mineral oil and beeswax mix.. My own personal clock I made in 2008 has only had one treatment of my mineral oil and beeswax.. it's been dusted many times with just a damp cloth.. still looking great.. not handled a lot.. other than to dust it out set time, change battery etc.. You go to Hobby Lobby and look at the laser cut ornaments they sell for a couple bucks.. I don't think there is any finish on those..

I think it probably might work the same but the oil base takes a lot longer to dry.. a light coat of water base will dry in about 20 - 30 minutes.. where as the oil base is a few hours..

David said it best.. My lousy experience with dust collecting has been a trade off.. I've never been 100% satisfied with the dust collected.. Yes my big collection for the planer is a great tool to have since I hate shoveling sawdust off the floor.. and the planer makes a lot of that.. so I'm satisfied with it.. noise well as I said before.. I don't even hear the dust collector when the planer is running. For the fine sawdust from our scroll saws.. after experimenting with many different variations of collecting that fine dust and the tradeoff of quiet and noisy.. I'm beginning to think my original system was more effective and quiet.. I spend many long hours behind a scroll saw in my shop.. the sound of vacuums and dust collectors running all day long 5-7 days a week is a lot.. My old method of a box fan and a furnace filter on the side of the saw that the dust blower blows toward at saw table level that seems pretty effective.. quiet and cheaper than any other system.. a broom or better yet.. shop vac to run for 5 minutes to clean the floor around the saw each day seems more effective to me.. If I'm not going to get 90% + of the dust with a saw activated dust collector and have to listen to the noise all day long.. The good old box fan and furnace filter seem to look better and better all the time.. I've really been considering setting up a old squirrel cage blower ( furnace blower fan ) and running it with different inlet locations with filters to filter the whole shop better and more efficient.. and much cheaper than these expensive noisy vacuums.. As Ray said.. that WEN ceiling hanging air filtration system is a nice quiet fine dust collection machine.. the combo of that and a box fan by the saw seems to work nice and on the cheap which is a bonus. I think my seyco system only getting about 70% of the dust and I have to put up with the noise.. That dust at the bottom of the saw really mostly just floats to the floor.. the dust I hate is what gets stirred into the air.. what the scrollsaws dust blower is doing.. and what the box fan takes care of 95% of.. IF you position it correctly.. seems to be the most effective fine dust collection I've used yet.. and just the soft sound of a fan running is nice.. I can still hear my radio..