kmmcrafts

Interesting, I've only ordered real thin wood from a eBay seller a couple times.. cannot remember the seller off the top of my head but I saved them to my favs.. they always had real thin stock 1/16 and 1/32 of solid hardwoods and exotics.. That was back when I was cutting mostly thin stock.. Wood was always great quality.. Anything 1/8 + I can get local.. and so I've never had a need for ordering.. Though depending on this virus stuff etc and if and when my local source opens back up.. I'll keep this place in mind..

It's on Scotts site.. called "Big Rig" also another called "Trucker"... and one called "CabOver".. I've cut the trucker one a couple times and it's more cutting than this bigrig one.. Have not purchased the Cabover one yet but its on my list for next time.. They are all in the transportation section.. https://woodcraftbyscott.com/collections/scroll-saw-patterns/products/puzzle-patterns-vehicles-sports-musical-instruments

Seems like someone ended up with a cheap cyclone that was metal? Was it this one? https://www.amazon.com/aspiradora-generación-turboalimentado-separador-industrial/dp/B088TNV944/ref=sr_1_125?dchild=1&keywords=Cyclone+Filter+Dust+Collector&qid=1591242500&s=hi&sr=1-125

I'd like to see some more detain on the "muffler" bottle thing.. on the vac.. what did you do just drill a bunch of holes in the bottle? I really like the compactness of the Metro vac but I've been hesitant to buy one because I've read they are louder than expected.. I think it was Ray that did something to one to make it quieter.. I've gone into production mode the last few weeks trying to bring up some new items to my inventory.. and on top of trying to keep up on orders coming in.. I've spent a lot of time behind my saw lately.. The dust that comes off the excalibur is crazy bad landing in my lap, on my legs, and even on my shoes and socks.. I don't have this problem on the Hawk saws.. but it'd be nice to have it all cleaned up as I'm cutting.. Dust collection at the saw has been on my to do list for a couple years now..

Here is some links that might be helpful... clone https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082P28VQJ/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A2D157CTWK245Y&psc=1 Hose https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VLXG6RR/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 The part I can't find and hopefully Les will get a link for is the coffee can.. I can't find one.. I've ordered a couple different ones and each one was full of a ground up substance.. It smelled a lot like a cup of coffee but it's not.. it's like dried up coffee or something.. been nice if it had been an actual big can of coffee that I could drink.. I filed a complaint with the seller that the coffee can was filled with dried up coffee.. I had to throw it out.. shame too cause it smelled so good.. but gosh you sure can't drink it..I tried a spoon full and it sure is some nasty tasting stuff.. Smells great though.. I kept the one can and just left it open to make the shop smell good.. critters got into it and now I can't even shoot them.. they run about 2-3 times faster after eating it.. been thinkin maybe I should eat some..maybe I can saw faster and be more productive..

Cut this puzzle today, dang near took a dozen blades and way too long to cut. Lesson learned puzzles from hickory is not a good time in the shop. Probably said too many choice words in the process too.

Not cheap as me unless you're turning them upside down and using the sharp teeth on the other end... .. I don't care on some projects if they have reverse teeth or not so I sometimes flip them upside down and cut with the sharper side for a while, LOL

I've read where some folks will glue sandpaper strips to them and use as sanders.. I've never done it but just a thought.. I know some like to sand some of the inner cutouts..

I use the free download of Posterrazor.. I used it for years.. https://posterazor.sourceforge.io/index.php?page=download&lang=english

Glad you got that mystery figured out.. I've been there done that a few times in my life.. One day while working on a Jeep in my younger days.. and a friend stopped by apparently I put one of my wrenches in my back pocket which is something I never did.. after he left I hunted hi and low for that wrench.. even called my friend and accused him of messing with me.. even gave up drove to town and bought another one.. That night when getting ready for a shower and emptying my pockets guess what.. LOL I have to wonder if the person at the counter of the store after me telling them the story of my lost wrench happen to have seen it in my back pocket after turned around and walked away from the checkout counter..

Ray, I don't blame you for the move.. I could never make it in CA with all the rules etc they have, LOL I also have to say if you locate to TN I be jealous, LOL My wife and I both say if we ever was to move it be TN area where we'd go.. I wish you much happiness and a nice roomy shop where ever you end up at..

I almost did that on one of the other bandsaw topics, LOL

Probably going to depend upon what you are making.. But I have resawn 8 - 10 inch more times than 6 inch or less.. Now.. That said.. the majority of resawing for me.. you are correct.. 6" is quite common for scroll work.. and typically just a good re-saw blade and a fence is all that one would need.. I've mentioned it before but I used to resaw with a small 9" ryobi saw that the max height was only like 4.5 inch.. worked perfect for ornaments and small things.. When I bought my setup it was because of several Cherry trees on my property was in the way of the power lines and they needed to come down.. Power company took them down and cut them up into 3 - 4 ft. length.. I resawed a whole lot of that wood much like George shows in his photo.. After that was gone.. I pretty much buy most my lumber close to size and then plane to what I use.. BUT.. if I do need a 1/4" board.. I do re saw it if the saw is set up.. otherwise the time to set it up is not worth it to me so i just waist it into sawdust and plain it to what I need.. I rarely use thin wood unless it's plywood these days.. I find the thin stuff just setting around cups and warps before I get it use it.. so if I'm messing with solid wood it I try to resaw and use it within a few hours.. otherwise for me.. ply works better.. Most my stuff is 5/8 - 3/4 though.. other than ornaments.. which I now make from ply.. It seems that 6" max is always just shy of what you need but rarely ever need more than 7-8" LOL.. Too bad you can't get a 1-2" riser for less money, LOL

I will sometimes use it for long straight cuts in thick wood.. but that is about the only time I'll use it..

Hawk didn't ever put on the I.D. tag what the saw was back then.. The 220VS is call the same thing as the 220VS Untra.. The 220 just stands for a 20" throat.. the VS is variable speed.. they did have single speed saws which was just a 220 and 3 speed saws which was a 220-3.. But the older 220VS has round lower blade clamps.. the Ultra is the square looking clamp..They called them Ultra because they have two positions for the blade to fit into in the lower arm.. one for more aggressive cut and one for less aggressive cut.. Be warned though.. the aggressive position makes the saw not cut the same on the top and bottom of the piece.. and if making puzzles they pieces won't always slide together from both top and bottom.. I mostly always use the less aggressive position.. Same rules apply for the 226VS .. 26" throat.. they also had 3 speeds etc etc etc....

I don't know exactly how they are made.. I've read they are stamped and I do think the majority of them are.. Pegas MG ( Modified Geometry ) blades cut straight.. as does the Olsen PGT ( Precision Ground Tooth ).. That I know of.. those are the only straight on cutting blades there is..

They had a bit of a rough patch about three years ago.. I ordered from them for several years and not much of any issues until about that time three years ago.. They no longer are my main source for blades.. I always like them for two sons.. They at the time I run across them was the only source that took PayPal as a payment method.. I always had money in my PayPal back then as that was the only payment i accepted so that worked out well for me.. plus they carry all three brands I use.. since I do use some of each brand of blades still to this day.. Though Pegas is the most used.. Anyway, I think I read where its a small husband / wife business and that they was splitting up.. Not sure if that is true or not.. Last couple orders I've done went smooth as they did before.. But I now don't do much business with them like I did.. I've had two or three issues during that one year though and I've had to email them about not getting all of my blades etc... They always took care of it.. but yes for a while they was poorly running the business..

I don't necessarily like to deal with these guys on a regular basis.. as sometimes they're slow.. But they do offer all three of the major brands and they also offer sample packs.. of each style blade.. Just click on the brand and then the style blade ( ie go to Pegas and then choose MG blades.. at the top they offer Intro packs ).. I bought samples of each style of Pegas when I first learned of the Pegas blades.. The intro packs of each style Pegas offered.. Yeah was a bit pricey but I quickly learned which blades I liked best and what ones I'll likely never use.. It's nice to be able to buy all the Intro packs from all the major brands all in one place.. Used to be everyone sold the intro packs.. now I rarely see them.. and it's a shame they don't make these more available.. I wonder if this company re-packages the blades to make the intro packs.. because i never see any others offering them any more.. Mike from FD blades used to and maybe they still do.. They don't ever make it easy to find that's for sure.. LOL http://www.scrollsawbladespatterns.com/index.htm

Been there done that once.. Took a little while but I figured it out..

I know I have read where the riser blocks will work from one saw to the next other than the pins as mentioned above.. Here all the talk of resawing and me saying I don't do it.. well with all the lock down crap and my lumber store closed.. Just last week I had two orders for a clock that I make out of thin stock so I had to set up the saw for resawing.. It is certainly nice to have the ability to resaw in a pinch.. and it got me thinking.. I don't use very much thin stock like I used to so that really is the bigger reason I don't resaw.. though it does take time.. especially if you have to keep changing from one set-up to the next...

Welcome to the village... I have the same saw, You might look at the bearings in the arm that connects from the motor up through to the lower arm.. I have a older Hawk that had done similar and those bearings was almost seized up.. Not sure that would do it but I've had to replace those bearings on two of my Hawk saws.. I'm wondering if it's putting load on the motor and popping the fuse..

Thank you..

In My opinion you got the best saw Hawk made, LOL... I have a 1993 220VS with the round clamps and the Fasco (SP) motor that they say can have issues.. It's a decent saw and I've not had any issues with it.. I also have a 1998 226 Ultra.. and it's a awesome saw.. I wanted a new style so in 2019 I bought a brand new BM-26.. I like that one better than the old 1993 but it's a tough call as to whether I like it better or not then my Ultra.. All are great saws.. Have fun with your new saw and hope to see you posting some project photos etc..

Thank you Kevin

Thank you, Unfortunately the Bulldog clock has no pattern per say.. It was a jigsaw puzzle pattern that I bought from www.woodcraftbyscott.com and I just used a compass to make the spot where the clock goes.. rather than cutting it as a puzzle I just cut it out as a non puzzle by just modifying it as I cut.. so there is not real pattern for this.. I do a lot of my own twist on existing patterns and many times modify as I cut.. sometimes I even do it on purpose