kmmcrafts

Thank you Les, I never was good at math in school.. but back then I didn't care about math so I never really tried.. Now I realize what everyone told me back then was true.. you'll use math about everyday of your life.. That is very true.. Still haven't used Algebra or geometry much though..

Well crap that’s not too bad of a expense then. I think I run about $100 in LP in this little tank top heater I got at HF. You must have some good insulation in there? My loft is insulated but nothing down in the shop yet.

Thank you! Those wildlife ones are Sue Mey patterns.. The tow truck is something I threw together..

That's great to hear Les.. I remember last year you wasn't satisfied with that little heater.. I may get something like that as well.. I just need to partition a section off in my shop before i try to heat the whole 24 x 32 lower part and the 14 x 32.. I work downstairs and we all know that heat rise's so if I run a heater as it is.. The upstairs would be 80 and still 32 downstairs.. I've gotta block off the stairway and the ceiling..

I hear you on that.. and also on the I275.. Was 32F outside this morning but it was 37ish in my shop.. I run a small LP tank top heater on a 30# LP tank.. the small 20# tanks make me melt my shoes.. the 30# is just the right height to burn the sh&& uta my leg... and my hands are still cold, as most of the rest of me.. LOL.. Last year I put a fan behind the heater and it worked pretty well and I was surprised that after a short time running it had actually raise the temps in the shop by 5F.. I need to invest in a better heater.. This heater is not recommended to use inside a closed area unless you have a flow of fresh air.. Thinking about splurging on the ceiling mount MR Heater LP 35000 ( I think ) heater.. They have a thermostat that goes all the way down to 35F.. I don't want it to be 60-70 in there but a 50F is real doable for me and probably wouldn't take much fuel to keep it at 50 either..

They are 1/8" BB Ply.. I stack cut 4 at a time on the Leaf ornaments and 5 at a time of the tow truck.. and my bad math.. that would have been 15 of the tow trucks

Who does housework this time of year.. supposed to leave the cobwebs and dust.. It a easy way to decorate for Halloween... Well maybe you don't celebrate Halloween in UK? I don't know.. LOL

I really like that.. great design and cutting.. I did one for Michigan a few years ago.. But I'm waiting for the wood to thaw out so i can put a finish on it.. My wife and I both talk of moving to the Tennessee area one day.. I also like Texas.. Nice and hot.. I'd probably thaw out from this freezing temps we have in a few weeks of hot summer Texas weather... Just think of all the work I could do if I was warm and comfy.. Well not too sure about that.. Our slogan around here is work harder to stay warm.. LOL This morning I cut 80 ornaments..( Pictures are in the Bragging section...) it was only 32F in my shop.. I came in around 1pm after it warmed up to 40F

Wow that was fast... great job cutting it too...

New designs I cut this morning. Made 16 of each. Still have a couple more styles yet to cut inventory of but here is a quick “ what you up to today Kevin info that you probably don’t care to know lol.

Beautiful work there on those and for a very worthy cause..

I've used epoxy glues on a lot of stuff.. I like the stuff that has the self mixing tube nozzle so you can apply it in small drops where you need them.. Though that type of nozzle seems to be hard to find for my local area.. They have 1, 5, and i think 10-15 minute set up times.. Gotta be quick with the one min.. if you have a lot of gluing to do.. but 5min seemed slow for me on another project.. 1min would have been great other than the glue dried up in the end of the nozzle while i was aligning my first project so when i went to glue the other 3-4 of them I went through more nozzles than I had, LOL .. As for the corian. You might contact local Home Depot etc. I imagine from time to time they get broken.. I've seen how the workers drive those forklifts

That's a great idea.. I've read in the past of people cutting it and seen a few projects made from it on the FB groups etc.. I've always wanted to try it but never have..I look forward to reading of your experience if you give it a go

I like the other one better... I seen a big smiley frog too... If that's what you want to call it..

Heck bring the drill too

As to where to buy.. I think all the distributors that I know of and heard of are pretty reputable.. I've had pretty good experiences with Bearwoods other than they was a little slow on getting my blades in the mail.. though they was ( Canada ) having a mail strike that had just gotten over with... so maybe it was backlogged.. Only time I bought from them.. then I had a batch of bad blades.. but they sent out another batch to replace my entire order right away.. so a thumbs up for that service.. DnD was always good to deal with too.. no complaints QTE was good to deal with and I've seen 2-3 others post about how they've gone above and beyond for customers.. one was just recently too.. There maybe more places.. but these are the main ones I hear about quite often and I've personally done business with each of these with no complaints.. I personally try to do business with the smaller mom & pops kinds of places.. I guess being a small business myself and how I appreciate the customers I get helps me stay in business etc.. I don't know how big QTE is Bearwoods is pretty well known.. But I've dealt with and really like doing business with DnD. DnD is in PA and QTE is CA and I believe Bearwoods is Canada.. so since you are here in MI. If you order from DnD provided they have stock.. It might arrive quicker, LOL

I'm curious about the sealed bearings deal.. I've yet seen ANY scroll saw with sealed bearings.. other than the two bearings that connect the motor shaft to the arms in that connecting rod thing.. second thing comes to mind.. they might consider them sealed because they are enclosed inside the saws case.. BUT.. that said.. I own a pegas clamp chuck.. and it is designed to be on the same bearing system as the Excalibur saws as well as well as the DW788's.. I'm thinking they cannot use that same chuck on their own saws if that front portion is really sealed bearings.. and while maybe they would but I have a hard time believing they'd redesign a clamp for just their own saw to have sealed bearings.. I may be wrong.. but that sealed bearings deal sounds like hogwash.. NOW... They could for real.. have a higher quality bearing than the others.. but sealed bearing would have to redesign the whole thing.. As I said.. they may have sealed bearings.. I just find it hard to believe they'd redesign the wheel when the current designs are proven good.. provided they have high quality parts.. I may be buying one of these just to take it apart.. That may seem funny to you all but that was a big reason I bought my EX.. everyone was saying they had sealed bearings.. and guess what.. They don't .. LOL.. There is nothing wrong with the needle bearing set up these saws have.. even sealed go bad after you burn up the grease.. etc.. but a high quality bearing vrs. bearing made with inferior metals makes a big difference.. Not trying to say anything bad about Bob.. he's a good guy.. nor am I trying to beat down the Pegas quality. I've just been around a lot of scroll saws and machines.. The term "sealed" is sometimes used loosely.. as in.. they're not sealed bearing but rather sealed in the saws body / case.. to me that is different than a actual sealed bearing.. But whatever.. at the end of the day Pegas is high end stuff from what I've seen.. One other key word said.. about the table being bigger.. and putting the saw out of the price range of competition.. so would redesigning the whole saw to use sealed bearings.. Just my two cent..

I like your way better as it seems easier, Thanks for the suggestion

Rolf, I believe your set screw is not protruded through the clamp far enough.. I like to use a feeler gauge to clamp into the clamp so to speak so the set screw on both top and bottom clamps are exactly the same so I'm not cutting on an angle.. If that makes any sense.. a lot of people like to have them in the center of the clamp.. and that works to as long as you have them both exactly centered.. But the most important thing is they are square to one another..

I also like to run the saw faster.. and no it doesn't mean you cut faster.. cutting faster is the rate you feed the wood to the blade.. I find it easier to do those sharp corner cuts with a faster blade speed.. I also like to cut so I'm not pushing onto the wood to get it to cut but rather sort of hold back on the wood if that makes sense at all.. I guess you're always pushing into the blade but at slower blade speeds I feel I push the wood through rather than let the blade do the cutting.. Lot's of folks say you don't need that kinda blade speed and say it burns up blades doing fast speeds.. I find opposite.. a blade will heat up at a slow rate if you're forcing it through.. You get all kinds of different strokes for different folks kinda thing but many think because I'm business I'm running full speed to go fast... and that's just not the case.. Many newer scroll sawers use blade speed to control how fast the cutting goes.. Too fast and they feel like they cannot keep up so they slow the saw down.. Years ago I talked with Mike that sold FD blades as I was having problems cutting a thick piece of white oak or hickory I don't remember the wood.. One of the first few questions he asked me was blade speed.. I kept getting burnt edges and what have you.. He told me I was running the blade too slow.. Told me to crank up the speed at least 3/4 on the dial or better.. So that proves my point.. forcing the wood through the blade will heat the blade.. If you let the blade do it's job either going fast or slow speed it won't get too hot unless your pushing off to one side slightly making the blade rub the edge of the cut.. I've read where people say if you run your saw on high speed you are stupid and or you have no business scroll sawing.. well.. the blade distributor is the one to tell me to run the saw fast... and I have been doing so for the last 10 years since he told me that.. which made me realize that it's actually easier to saw with a faster speed and then slowly feed the wood into the blade.. So to all those with the thought that I run my saw full speed because I'm in a rush are totally wrong.. But as I've said... everyone has a different cutting style.. also how the saw is set up makes a difference too..

Thank you Kevin! I try to be ahead but actually running a bit later than normal this year.. But i'll get them done as best I can.. and then say better luck next year maybe..

Thank you! You have plenty of time to make ornaments.. if it's too late this year just tell your self you're getting a jump start for next year, LOL I typically cut ornaments all year long but not all day everyday until September.. this year I'm running a bit later than usual.. Maybe having my truck break at the same time my sons transmission went out in his car.. I've been repairing cars instead of cutting ornaments, LOL

Saw vibration is a tricky thing... All the saws I have had always had the factory stand.. but when getting the saws brand new always too excited to give it a try so I just put them on the table or a work bench and give them a go right out of the box.. Of all the saws I've owned the dewalt was the smoothest running un-bolted saw I've ever used.. right behind that one was a old Delta 40-530 2 speed 16" saw.. that one was smooth and i never did mount that one down to the bench or a stand.. I was quite surprised how much vibration my EX had being made very similar to the deWalt and how everyone talked about how smooth they run etc.. Maybe mine was bad from the get go.. anyway... I had a cheap Harbor Freight stand and mounted a piece of 1" flooring OSB type material to the stand since the EX wouldn't fit directly to the stand.. Mounted it up this way and it was much better than un-bolted.. but not by a whole lot.. Ended up buying a actual EX stand.. once set up on that... smooth as silk then.. The Hawks are real fussy with the stands but those massive arms and the design of those saws it's kinda understandable.. I think by quite a bit the Dewalt was always the smoothest running saw I ever had.. Also something I noticed with the EX was that tuning the motor etc. made a difference in how smooth it runs too..

Thank you!