kmmcrafts

It's on FB Marketplace.. Not sure if this will post or if you can get it if you don't have FB.. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/420712761969123/?surface=product_details

Yeah those good deals don't hang around too long.. There is also a decent Hegner 22" saw in Kalamazoo for around $400.. That one probably gone as well, LOL

I would think that would be the way we want it... after all the reverse teeth are for the very bottom edge to remove the fuzziies anyway.. the more teeth that are actually cutting the wood on the down stroke is what I would think would work best.. That could be another reason the DeWalt is such an aggressive cutting saw.. I've actually never really paid attention to how much of the reverse teeth are being used.. as long as there is a clean cut on the bottom I never really gave it much thought.

I just realized you're from Michigan too.. I just seen this listing tonight.. Not sure what the Seyco sells for new, but I've been eyeing the dust collector for a while now.. they run $160 if I remember correctly... Anyway... seems like a decent deal to me if it's as nice as it looks and really only used a couple times.. https://swmi.craigslist.org/tls/d/saint-joseph-seyco-st-21-scroll-saw/7005350155.html

Very nice set up.. I hope to finish my shop one day.. put it up in 2012.. but since then it's been a real slow process... Every time I go out there to hang some more insulation or run some more electrical wires.. I see a scroll saw with a half done project and next thing I know I've sawn for 3 hours and then it's time to come in for dinner..

So you're the one that tries to pick up those pennies that I superglue to the floor at Walmart Nowhere can you get that kind of entertainment for a penny.. Just sayin..

I don't seem to have as much issue with the short table as I did when I first started using the EX.. But boy at first I felt like the blade was right in my lap after using the DeWalt so many years.. Not so bothersome now.. but do wish they'd redeign the table a little.. Speaking on the tables.. I think the newest Jet saw has more table in front of the blade.. The new one is the 18" saw.. It's not a lot more but it is more than the 22" Jet.. They have them side by side at my local store and I noticed that right off the bat... I wonder if they also fixed the distance of the table height so the reverse teeth are usable now.. LOL

I had ordered my Pegas clamps from them too.. and they arrived really quick.. I was surprised since they are in CA that they came so quick.. I may have to give them a try with the blades..

I use a Elipse P100 half mask... I used to use a Totobobo mask that I really liked.. but the straps would rot away quite fast.. now I see they only use the ear straps.. The filters don't last too long either but it is a very light and comfortable mask.. that many times I'd forget I even had it on, LOL https://www.ebay.com/itm/GVS-Elipse-P100-Half-Mask-Respirator-Plus-1-Bonus-set-of-Filters-S-M-M-L/173275606332?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=471984967384&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I don't typically cut very large stuff either... usually 14-16" is about the largest I do and that's a rare occasion.. My issues with the table have not been the size of the table.. but more about the short distance from the blade to the front edge of the table.. I don't remember exact measurements off the top of my head right not but it's something like only 4 inch from the front edge of the table to the blade.. The Hawk has around 5.5" or 6" and the Dewalts have something like 8" Anyhow whatever the distance is.. Cutting large pieces at times when spinning the board around you may have 12" off the end of the table and into your gut.. I'm a skinny guy but I still have that issue.. not to mention you have 12" hanging off the table and only 4" on the table.. It took me a long time getting used to that..especially coming from running 10+ years on a DeWalt with so much more space.. As I said I don't do many larger stuff.. most my cutting on the EX is 10" or smaller.. anything large I typically just cut it on my Hawks.. Edit to add: The Seyco saw was advertised as having a large area in front of the blade.. I don't remember how much space it was.. but it was up there with the DeWalt or better if I remember correctly.. A fix could be to add a slip on table for the larger projects.. I don't have that "NEED" since I have two 26" Hawks and a 20" Hawk as well.. so I'm not fussing with making a table for larger projects..

Just my opinion here but a blade is going to cut the same way whether you cutting fretwork or intarsia .. NOW.. don't confuse that with the types of material you cut.. A think most people consider that fretwork is usually what I call portrait work cut from thin plywood.. many people stack cut this so in my opinion it's still like cutting hardwood other than the plywood glues dull blades two fold, LOL Now.. she may have done the test years ago before many different styles of brands of blades where available.. and ( at that time ) her blades was the best for that... whole different ball game these days with different blades.. Most all blades back in the day were stamped and had that pesky bur on the one side which made them cut on an angle.. or a few degrees off to one side.. Not so much the case with these newer blades.. JMO..

Yes I do that with the rough cut lumber i get from my brothers mill.. mostly because there is sometimes dirt etc from them being sticker-ed to dry out.. out in his dusty lumber lot.. and I've found that though you really don't see much of any dirt or anything on the lumber it sure does dull the blades quick.. so I plane the rough cut stuff with the dull blades then use sharp blades for the finish work.. Thanks for suggesting it though as it may benefit someone reading this.. I learned it the hard way by running rough cut on a set of brand new blades.. they didn't last too long, LOL

My planer has little tabs and the knives can only go in a certain way.. It has two knives.. so I wouldn't be able to move the blades for those nicks I got.. Mine are from dumb me.. the place I get my lumber staples tags on the ends to mark the lumber and price etc.. well.. I forgot to pull the staple out.. so I have two nicks in my knives.. but they are very small and I pre-sand my projects plus finish sand everything too.. so it's not an issue yet anyway.. This happen a couple years ago and when they get dull this time.. I'm putting my new ones on since I've sharpen this set about 4 times now.. My planer I've had about 8 years now I think.. maybe longer.. I bought it at a outlet mall when we was on vacation and the wife & mother in law wanted to go shopping.. I wasn't at all really interested in going but figured better than sitting at the hotel by myself.. but not much better, LOL turned out the outlet place had a tool store.. the planer is a 13" ryobi that was $100 mother in law gave every one $150 to spend at the mall.. so really the thing was free..LOL.. I've run a lot of board ft. through that thing for just being a cheapy.. Kept putting money aside for a better one but never have needed it so I spent the money I had put away on other things.. Now it'll quite for sure LOL.. but it sure owes me nothing..

I know many of you have planers and the knifes aren't all that cheap to replace.. Just thought about this as my knives was getting dull so I had to flip them over to the other side ( double sided ).. which got me thinking about how I've never seen anyone mention anything about sharpening them.. or replacing them.. so i thought I'd start a topic on my experience with this tool. I got this larger set up 4-5 years ago as a gift.. probably wouldn't buy it as something similar could be easily made.. search youtube on the topic.. Anyway, way back when.. I was replacing knives about 2 times a year.. and hose things aren't all that cheap.. Since getting this tool I've only replaced a them once and have another new set that I've had for two years now.. I've been getting about 3-4 life times out of a set of knives.. I probably could get more but I don't want to push my luck and get these worn down so much that I damage the cutter head.. these don't stick out real far from the cutter head and every sharpening makes them stick out that much less so.. Anyway, I've been very pleased with this tool.. I will say that the angle that this sharpens is different than the angle of my planer knives.. but it still works very well for me.. Just thought I'd share my thoughts.. making your own you'd be able to do whatever angle you need.. might talk some trial and error... https://www.rockler.com/deulen-planer-jointer-sharpening-jigs-sharpening-jigs

Don't think they made very many of those.. Way back in the 80's this thing probably didn't cost that much

I don't own the 16" but do have the China made EX-21.. and after taking the whole thing apart and basically going through the whole saw.. I got it working as the other Excalibur owners have experienced... they are awesome saws.. I fine tuned the motor adjustment etc and it cuts much like my Hawk does now.. The Pegas blade chucks make a world of difference for my saw.. but being mine was made in China.. and from what others have said.. I suspect my saw had a defective upper blade chuck.. so maybe the OEM clamps aren't too bad if you get a good set.. Don't matter anyhow as this saw has the Pegas clamps on it already.. that's an upgrade there.. That's an awesome deal.

I didn't look at what part of NY this is in and not knowing what part of NJ you're at.. if not too far this could be worth the drive.. This is a newer model Hawk Ultra.. looks to be in nice shape.. $80 starting bid and no bids.. Ends in about an hour though.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hawk-Model-220VS-Scroll-Saw/264495758884?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Yeah the Delta is a decent saw.. and I see them all the time for $250-300.. Refurbished at $250 and many times brand new on sale at Home Depot or Amazon etc.. for 299.99 Not a bad price and their much like the DeWalt.. Quite a step up from anything else you're going to find in that price range for a new or newer saw... If you wait it out some though deals can be had on good used saws.. My first Hawk 220VS from Craigslist was a $100..I did put a lot of money into it.. but 95% of it was optional things like the adjustable air blower hose and extra blade holders etc etc..Only thing it "really" needed was the front tension cam as the one was worn out.. I upgraded so paid a little extra $50 for the new style one that's adjustable.. Too bad you're not close to Michigan.. I'd consider making a deal on that one..as I rarely use it since I got the other two bigger Hawks and the Excalibur https://www.ebay.com/p/2254908595?iid=303308009023 The Excalibur that is on Craigslist linked above is a pretty awesome deal too if you can come up with a few extra $$.. Heck he may even come down on price or do some trading..

WOW!! That is a beautiful well done sign...

Yes they do.. but it's all past issues that we already have purchased once in magazine form.. But that is a start I guess...

Run across my FB page the other night and sparked my interest so I looked up the model number can't find much info on it since I can't read Chinese LOL Looks pretty heavy duty.. http://kinkda.worldinmfg.com/productimage/mj442-scroll-saw-drawloom-saw-machine-woodworking-saw-713310.html

Price is pretty darn close to the same when you buy the Hepa filter for the Fein that comes standard on the Festool.. Festool is also the only one 'Hepa certified ".. The question is.. is the Hepa filteration really needed.. Guess that really depends on how clean you want / need the air in your shop.. My standard shop vac with a Hepa filter does a decent job.. while not perfect it's a lot better than nothing at all.. But the noise is terrible, LOL.. I'm also quite torn between those too vac.. but as I've said.. Festool dealer not far away.. and it seems like the better system with the low speed.. but the price is also steep..

What makes your decision for choosing the Fein over Festool and some of the others? I'm just curious as I'm torn between the Fein and Festool.. There are also many other top of the line quiet machines out there that I never heard of before.. I found it last year doing searches on vacuums etc.. and if I remember correctly I ended up on some drywallers / construction working forum.. they talked about the Fein like it didn't hold up well and the Festool wasn't far behind.. They did say the older Feins where nice units.. but the newer models they claimed to be a waist of money.. Believe they mentioned the older ones having a two speed setting.. the newer ones are single speed.. Festool is a two speed or variable? I wish I had bookmarked that site.. because they talked brands I never heard of.. and I did look up some of those brands and prices were comparable.. Anyway, I'm just wondering why you sway toward the Fein.. Meanwhile I'm trying to find some of those other brands.. andat the moment I'm leaning toward the Festool for two reasons.. one being I have a dealer about 30 mile away.. the other is I like that it has the two speed or variable whatever it was.. Rolf has one ad claims he runs his on the lowest setting for the scroll saw and it works great for him on low.. also quieter on low..

Make sure the blade isn't upside down too.. Don't ask how I know that one..

Welcome to the scroll saw village.. Just my opinion.. I'd watch for a good used higher end saw if my budget was $200.. Not much out there for good quality saws in that price range.. but many locations have good used higher end saws.. just watch craigslist and FB marketplace for scroll saws.. Ebay as well.. second hand stores etc.. Not sure what the price of this one will end up at but might be worth keeping an eye on it.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-20-Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-40-694/362778850512?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649