kmmcrafts

Beautiful work Jim.. Someday I'm going to give inlay another go.. If I ever get out of clock and ornament mode LOL

I don't fasten mine to the fan so the suction of the fan holds it tight to the back of the fan.. If I put it in front it'd blow the filter away..

You must have found a machinist to help you make that..

I've tried wrapping it around the edges and found that it's thicker than packing tape and also seems to not stick quite as good as packing or blue tape.. so I always put the shelf liner on the top piece and then use packing tape to go around each side to hold the stack together.. Seems to work better than the shelf liner for the stack cutting..

You're brave, I'm not even going there with those kind of statements after the Guitar Clock thread in the Pattern Request section..

I cannot agree with you more about the Hawk blade changing, LOL I have three of these lights.. and the fourth one is unknown because it came new with my old Hawk ultra and I have no idea of brand etc.. anyway my oldest one of the Menards ones is 13 years old.. I just changed out the bulb last year to a LED bulb.. liked the LED so much better than I changed it in all of them.. I'll link to the bulb I bought too.. as they are not all created equal.. One of the bulbs is from Menards as well.. but the plug for the wires is fixed in one position and at an angle that while works.. took some finagling to get it to work.. The bulb in the link below has a swivel pin connector so you can change the angle of it.. MY light: https://www.menards.com/main/lighting-ceiling-fans/indoor-lighting/lamps/desk-lamps/patriot-lighting-reg-apollo-45-h-black-1-light-magnifier-desk-lamp/tb1306b/p-1444438446926-c-1531402259058.htm?tid=6120375444130429389&ipos=1 The LED BULB https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-inch-Circline-T9-Daylight-6000K-LED-Relamp-Fluorescent-FC8T9-Bulb/222261066257?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I've ordered from uline before but they aren't the best price place.. I think I ordered my bags from papermart.com as well as my ornament boxes.. JT, since you gear more for the artistic taste of things why not make wood box to put the puzzle in? Something I always thought about hen I messed with puzzles.. I was also going to laminate the photo of the puzzle onto the box.. This would make for a very nice puzzle / box.. but it might price you out of your targeted customer range.. I know if I did get into puzzles.. that was what I was going to "try" to do.. Not sure if I could of winged it that way.. price points for a box and puzzle would put the price up there for sure.. Or ales tactic maybe make a box that the puzzle could fit in to upgrade the sale.. If no takers.. just sell the box, LOL Hard to say.. anyway just a thought..

Scott did a video that may give you some tips.. It's exactly how I do it.

Thanks for bringing that up.. I'm kinda looking out for a Hegner.. Not been too many around lately... now that I have some cash.. but boy there was some deals a month or two ago when I was broke, LOL.. Real nice 22" newer one a while back for $250.. and not far from me.. I had a hard time passing on it.. but didn't want to stretch the cash too thin.. Should have bought it and then sold the older Hawk I have.. as Les said earlier "Sometimes one has to ignore good sense."

That's where I know him.. I knew that name when I read this earlier...

Congrats on the new to you saw!! I had the opportunity to grab one of the 14" Hegners for $70 on a stand last year but my brain wasn't working correctly and I passed on it.. mainly because of the single speed and no up front blade release.. I do wish i'd have grabbed it now.. They did give me all the blades and a box of parts.. that turned out to be bunch of big blades I'd never use.. and the parts were Hegner blade clamps and the rear tension springs things.. I gave the blades away but still have all those blade clamps and odd parts box.. I'm gonna try me a Hegner some day..

My 1998 226vs Ultra is serial 103** It was purchased in Dec. of 1998 according to the receipt that came with the saw when I open the box and put it together after buying it from the original owner about 2 years ago.

That’s what I’ve been using for the last few months. Not sure if it was a good choice for gluing wood to painted surface or not. Really like the quick set time of the weldbond though.

Here is a screenshot. After doing all that I realized I could have just taken a picture of my glue bottle

I just realized I never put the link to the glue I bought. Had a big storm overnight and out of power now so using my phone. I’ll try to figure out how to use my phone to post a link lol

I change it up all the time like that... gives me something challenging to do and keeps me in tune with all the different blades..LOL.. I used FD blades for a good 12 + years so I adjust in just a few seconds after switching back from the Pegas.. I do this because I do like to be well versed in being able to use about any blade thrown my way..

This looks like the one I bought.. I really like it for gluing the painted / stained backers. I think it would be a decent glue for wood to wood gluing.. I normally use titebond III for wood to wood..

Sounds like you should have your picture posted up on the Post office thief board, LOL... Sounds like you got a nice deal.. Enjoy making sawdust with your toy

What Olsen blades do you run? I've had just the opposite.. the Pegas last a lot longer than the others I've used.. I will say they don't like heat.. so if you're running a pretty fast saw speed.. they'll dull quicker.. I don't have this issue on my Excalibur.. but I do on the DeWalt and Hawk but these two saws have a faster running speed.. i have to turn it down some for these two saws.. Another thing too.. They do cut straighter than most the other blades.. and when I first tried them I kept pushing sort of more on the side of the blade as I was used to the couple of degrees off that most blades have.. so by doing that I was creating a little more heat with them..

Yep, I read about putting water in on their website and gave it a shot.. Put just a little water in it.. shook it up real good and went back to gluing the backers.. I do like the glue very much.. it sets up pretty quick and seems like a real good hold since I tried to take them apart with no luck.. I think I'll be using this stuff from now on with the backers.. and maybe even more stuff.. seems like a very good all around glue..

Well, gluing up more backers on some more wall clocks today.. A while back I posted about backers and glue types for painted backers etc.. A few mentioned weldbond glue and epoxy glue... I couldn't find weldbond glue for the longest time.. then one day I happen to be in a Ace hardware store and they had a bottle.. I was concerned a little about the amount of dust on the bottle as if it had been there on the shelf for a while.. Today, I thought I'd give it a try... I suspect my glue is maybe old.. it was quite thick and didn't really want to come out of the bottle all that great... Not sure what the glue is supposed to be like I went forward and gave it a try anyway.. Seem to dry fast.. not sure if it's because it maybe old glue or not? The stuff dried out before i even got a couple clock backers glued on.. I use wax paper to pour a pile of glue on then spread it around with a plastic spreader and set my project on it make sure it gets pressed down good to get a good coating of glue lift up and stick it on the backer.. The glue was pretty dried out by the time I hit the second one.. maybe only about 1 minute later.. I normally use TiteBond III glue and can normally get 4-6 backers glued up before i need to add more glue and keep it all moist.. I read online doing a search that it can be thinned with some water to prolong the shelf life if it's starting to dry up.. I may try that.. but was just wondering if anyone that uses it regularly could give an idea of the consistency of the stuff compared to titebond etc.. I'm thinking it's old and sort of drying out.. but maybe this is how the glue is? I'd buy another batch if I knew this one was old.. but not wanting to buy another one just to see it's the same way.. So far.. from what I'm experiencing with this glue vrs. the epoxy... I like the epoxy better.. but I wanna give this glue a fair shot if the batch i have is just old..

I might add: another reason I stopped using the 3M-77 was the fact that the cold temps in my shop during the winter.. the spray can freezes up and doesn't spray worth a crap.. and once frozen even after you thaw it.. it never works the same... so in the cold months it was a fighting battle as well... so the full sheet labels take care of that issue too...Now... not so much an issue if I keep the can in the house and then ( actually remember ) bring it back inside the house when done.. That is just as much a pain as the spray glue itself.. Personally I find the cost quite comparable to buying standard paper and the spray glue... IF you buy the labels in bulk.. probably not economical for the hobbyist though?

I use to use painters tape.. then ran out of what I had on hand.. I then started using clear packing tape.. both worked okay for me.. peeling the pattern off was sometimes a chore but not knowing any other easier way that's just how I did it for most of 10 years.. Oh.. also use to use the 3M-77 exclusively.. Don't know how long it took for the light bulb to light up about printing the pattern on a full sheet shipping label.. but that was sure a smart move for me.. Eliminates a spray the pattern with messy glue step.. and for me just makes the whole process easier... Then about 4 years ago I read online somewhere about the shelf liner and gave that a go.. second best move was to use that.. sooo much easier to pull the pattern back off.. So now I use the shelf liner to the wood.. then use the label paper peel and stick to print my pattern on.. works for me.. I like the clear shelf liner over the masking tape because you can see the wood grain to be able to place the pattern exactly where you want / need it.. was always guess work where the bad spot in the wood was once covered in painters tape.. I often thought about trying a white colored shelf liner.. cut it into printer sized papers and try printing onto the label paper all together.. I have not got brave enough to try to run a shelf liner paper through my printer though, LOL But this would eliminate so many process's and supplies etc.

Pegas blades are very easily broken.. If you bend it,,, it'll usually snap at that bend very soon,, FD UR blades can handle those bends and twist much better from my experience anyway...

Never done that on purpose, LOL.. I have twisted a blade before though.. They do cut more aggressive when they get bend or twisted.. But I've never heard of twisting it one time..