kmmcrafts

I'll try to answer some of the questions.. The name of the person doing those puzzles was Carter Johnson I believe.. I think he past away a few years ago? Anyway he helped me with my first puzzle cutting.. and he recommended just free hand cutting. I'll get to that in a minute.. I think he recommended using Arleen's (SP) Tacky Glue... Kinda reminds me of wood glue.. anyway you spread it out evenly on the 1/4 BB and put you're picture, card, etc on the glued board then use a credit card or a roller to press it down and get the air bubbles out etc... Many others back in the day said the 3M 77 works real well too.. I used both and I think the spray works easier.. After applying the picture they always top coated with Triple Thick Clear Glaze.. Basically thick clear paint. Now I think it was Carter that did all those puzzles free hand ( no pattern or guidelines and encouraged others to try it this way.. Some mentioned to draw a square grid on the back.. I tried both ways with poor results, LOL But I think if I had gave it a try with some practice maybe after a couple tries I'd have the pieces somewhat similar in size.. I did this when I was quite new to scrolling so it's been 12-15 years ago.. Now that I'm more experienced I feel I could do it better without the pattern... I seen somewhere ( think it was Steve Good ) where they have some puzzle patterns.. also think ARPOP has some on his blog page. Anyway someone ( think Steve ) mentioned putting a soft paper towel between the top sacrificial 1/8 piece and the picture to protect the image because even with the edges taped tight with the stack.. light vibration will mar up the photo image.. I did this and it worked quite well.. Yes you want to use the FD Superior Puzzle Blades.. Nobody ever mentioned anything about sealing up the wood at all.. and to my understanding the back side it left alone too.. as many people do this as wedding guestbooks etc.. and leave it so they can be signed etc... Jim is correct.. I use the 12 x 12 shrink wrap bags.. You can put in the puzzle and any other info.. I put a business card and a Choking hazard warning paper that I just print.. and then I use a hair drier.. I have a heat gun but haven't tried using it since it's always put away in the bottom of my tool chest.. and the hair drier has much easier access, LOL Have fun with it.. I hope I answered all the questions but if not ask again, LOL

Maybe this will help? https://www.lumberjocks.com/topics/231713

I finally took some time off of scroll sawing and repairing cars / mowers and all the other household things and finished assembling the CNC, hooked up all the wires / cables etc.. Set up my water cooler bucket with RV antifreeze and plumbed the tubing to the spindle and to the coolant pump.... Turned it on and registered the unit.. toyed around a bit with it even though I have no idea what I'm doing, LOL... I messed with a drawing in the V-carve software that came with it.. that itself was a adventure, LOL Glad I have a little experience with patterns for the scroll saw using inkscape.. that helped a lot.. but sure a lot more to figure out.. I have the touch plate but for the life of me I can't figure out how to set it up.. Going to watch the set up videos again.. I watched them back in the winter but then got busy with other things and after several months I guess I need a bit of a refresher, lol

Thank you, It's going to Reno.. Not sure here that is.. but pretty sure I've sent stuff there before.. I've been thinking for a year about getting a map and marking places I've sent stuff to... Could be fun.. I know I've sent out to most all the states now.. quite a few different countries too..

Order came in last night.. made it this morning.. mail it out tomorrow when the glue dries and put the finish on in the morning then on it's way.. Hopefully get it all packaged before my mail delivery driver shows up.. Steve Good pattern Cut from Red Oak on the new Hawk.. with a #3 FDUR blade..

Great cutting on them all... I really like the "Be Humble and Kind" Is that a Keith Fenton Pattern? I think I seen it somewhere and wanted to cut it.. but now I don't remember where I seen it.

Thank you Marg.. I really had fun with this one because my inlaws had beagles... so it just kinda hit home with me I guess.. I have Great Danes s maybe that will be next, LOL

Well normally quite slow this time of year for me but I managed to get 18 orders last week. and all of them was higher priced things.. which was good for my pocket.. really needed that extra cash.. Helping daughter through college is killing the funds.. glad shes only got about 1.5 years left of that.. She just goes to a community college but it's still about $15,000 a year plus books, gas, and wear on her car etc.. probably all pans out to be a good $20,000 a year before all said and done.. Doesn't help any that the closest community college doesn't offer the programs she is taking so she's driving 50 mile each way.. Thankfully a lot of it can be done online and she only has to go to the school 2-3 times a week..

Those smaller blades can really chew through some material pretty quick.. I rarely use anything smaller than a #3.. once is a great while I do use a #1.. I've used those #2/0 from time to time as well but I gotta say.. it's been a real long time.. If you think those are fast.. give a Flying Dutchman Superior Puzzle blade a try LOL.. Now that said.. in a spiral blade.. I rarely use anything larger than a #1 and usually use a #2/0

I agree Brad.. I've used a wide variety of blades and also started out using Olsen blades.. I do like to be versatile with blades and I still use some Olsen blades and FD blades.. but I gotta say.. I always gravitate back to those Pegas MG blades.. I've tried many different styles configurations and most all the sizes of most every brand blade out there and I have favorites in most all those brands.. The best blades I use and get the best results from For Me.. is the faster more aggressive cutting blades... I tend to mess up more pieces from a slower cutting blade because I tend to get impatient and start pushing too much which in turn makes the blade flex and give me a poor cut.. Good to see you posting, Hope all is going as good as it can be for you.

My first ROS I bought from HF about 20 years ago... That thing lasted a very long time for a $15 sander.. was a nice sander too.. It was a single speed ( I think?) and low vibration etc.. It gave up on me about 5 years ago and I naturally went to HF to get another one.. The replacement one was larger ( taller ) clunky to hold.. heavy and single speed as well but WAY too aggressive and not real user friendly IMO.. I still have it.. only used it about 2 weeks and it broke some of my fretwork pieces because it was so aggressive etc.. I ended up getting a Bosh VS sander.. I really like the Bosh but I gotta say.. the brushes in the motor burned out last year and I did repair it myself.. but I felt they wore out prematurely.. The original HF sander had a bearing lock up on it. I knew something was wrong but I kept using it.. The bearing locked up and smoked the motor otherwise I'd have repaired that too.. My Bosh was a better sander than the original HF sander simply because the VS was handy but short of that.. and the price difference well.. I feel the best bang for the money was the original HF sander I had.. I may go grab one of these and test it out.. doesn't hurt to have a backup sander.. besides that CRAP Bulky Aggressive HF thing I had to dig out and se for a week while I waited for my brushes to come in the mail for the Bosh, LOL.. Another plus on the Bosh and the HF model that you bought Ray.. I like the plastic dust collection cans on these.. The ones with the fabric bag.. those bags always get torn and leak dust out terrible.. Not sure about how well the dust can works on this HF one but my Bosh has a can you an empty and has a filter system incorporated which I use my shop vac to clean them out.. One issue with that is.. they are tough to get on and off the sander AND split it apart to empty.. In the cold weather I cracked the plastic canister. I should buy a new one but I used a bit of super glue and then sealed it with electrical tape.. seems to work as it should.. been this way for a year now.. LOL

You're right.. which is why I never used a reverse tooth blade because they cut way too slow.. and why I always liked the FDUR blades because they were more aggressive.. The Pegas is a reverse tooth blade that cuts better than any other blade I've ever used... Never have tried the super sharps.. been wanting to give them a try... but boy that price is also hard to swallow too.. and they'd have to last a whole bunch longer and cut a whole bunch faster for them to be worth the extra cost for me.. I'm going to give them a try sometime soon.. Maybe I'll eat those words once I try them.. They sure are pricey though.. I try not to be too opinionated on something I haven't tried.. but sometimes those price tags make me be opinionated LOL

Going to a bigger blade number doesn't always mean getting a faster cut.. The bigger blade is also a wider kerf thus removing more material.. Many times in cutting thicker wood.. going with a #3 blade will actually cut faster than a #7.. Just be careful because the thinner blade will flex more too.. so you can't push it through too hard..

I would sometimes burn the edges of Cherry when cutting sharp corners etc with the FDUR blades.. I find the Pegas I don't do this.. I also find they are much easier to do those sharp corners like grass etc .. when using FD blades I used to cut out beyond the point and then cut back down to the pointed area and cut from there to prevent the burning on the grass tips.. the Pegas.. no more need for that..

So the regular price is 34.99 ? This must be area specific.. Below is a screen shot from my computer the page where this is.. I also have a app that searches out the best coupon codes etc called Honey... It tells me I have the best price.. Not saying the app is always right.. but man it sure has saved me a big chunk of money..

Yes I knew that.. Also to clarify it's not etsy doing the sweeps... etsy cannot judge whether the item is or isn't copywritten.. nor do they know if you have legal permission to sell those said items.. It's companies that the copywrite holders hire to seek and destroy.. Etsy as a company probably likes this good selling stuff because each sale they get a % of the selling price.. You can report suspected infringing items.. but they rarely do anything about it.. but they do have to comply with the companies and the copywrite holders and take down the listings in question.. They send the shop owner a message with info and emails of the people to contact in case you feel they wrongfully took your listing down.. once the company or the copywright holder gives etsy the green light ( if your'e really not infringing ) they will let you put the listing back up.. When it comes down to getting picky with everything.. as you said. they might as well shut down etsy as a whole.. LOL..

Is that a typo? 24.95? I ask because I just looked on the website and it shows 34.99.. The design reminds me of my Bosh sander.. I bought it on sale plus 11 rebate deal at Menards 3 years ago.. been an awesome sander for the $30 I paid for it..

Even the Hobbyist just getting rid of their pieces not intending to make $$ can find trouble in this stuff... In my mind I think it's more about where / who you're showing.. At a craft show maybe only a few thousand people see the work.. even only 10,000 - 20,000.. But online.. is well.. worldwide.. and for someone to find a John Wayne portrait is a matter of a few clicks on the mouse and wallah.. BUSTED... I try to stay away from making these type things.. that said though.. i do describe my car clocks for what they are.. and that there I suppose could be infringing.. But to get real technical about it all.. there isn't much out there that isn't trademarked or copywritten.. Many many sayings phases etc are copywritten.. fonts, images etc etc etc.. where does one draw the line at? You can have a copywitten free image but use the wrong wording to describe the item and get busted solely on the description rather than the image itself... I see this stuff on a forum designed for Etsy sellers.. people all the time posting they got something taken down.. mainly because they put a search engine tag that said Hello Kitty or any other trademarked name etc.. even though the item was just a cat image with the text bubble saying hello.. They was allowed to relist their item once they took out the tag.. The real issue here is.. after 3 strikes.. Etsy can shut down your shop.. Amazon handmade.. they don't play games.. They'll shut you down on the first offence..

Jerry, My go to blades before the Pegas was the FDUR #3 & 5 much like you.. I bought sample packs of each size and style of Pegas blades.. I found I like the Pegas Modified Geometry #3 and #5.. They are quite a bit more aggressive blades.. They have a much thinner kerf than the FDUR blades.. however.. the #5 requires a larger drill bit than a #5 FDUR so keep that in mind.. They also cut straight onto the blade rather than the few degrees to the right like the FDUR.. I will sometimes switch back and fourth between the two.. but find I use the Pegas most of the time.. I've ordered them from Bearwood, DnD, and Lesley's Patterns.. I like DnD best.. they are far faster in getting the blades out and customer service has always been top notch... Have bought Pegas blade clamps from QTE and they are also great to deal with.. though I've never ordered blades from them.. have read others having great success with them.. Believe Bushton MFG also sells them.. Have not bought blades from them either.. I originally bought my sample packs from Lesley's patterns as they have samples in each category and you get a package with each size blades in that blade type category.. But I believe the most popular used blade is the MG blade..

Doing a remodel project in my house and having a small section of uneven wall, I needed a small cheap plywood 1/4" thick.. Went to Menards to look and pick something up since the only stuff I had on hand here in 1/4 was expensive good two sides Walnut, Cherry, or Oak plywood... not using a $30 chunk of plywood as a shim, LOL.. Anyway I came across the stuff called hardboard.. I bought a small 2 x 4 foot piece.. and have a small part of it left... It's dark colored.. like dark brown? almost looks black from a distance with low lighting.. Anyway this piece I bought was like $5 including tax etc.. Think they had full 4 x 8 sheets of the stuff too.. I cut the piece I needed right on my scroll saw since my table saw was blocked in with little room to work around it.. The stuff cut very well and even left a pretty smooth edge.. I'm not real sure what the stuff actually is.. but just wondered if anyone ever used it for scroll saw projects or at least for backers.. Many times I'm using backers of foam sheets for black or dark brown etc to give a good contrast.. The foam sheeting is not very stiff for a solid backer on a fragile piece.. I would think this stuff would be a much better option and very cheap to use.. I may look into getting more of it to mess with.. I have about 15 new styles of wall hanging clocks I made several months ago but I'm low on backer material and just keep getting side tracked so there they sit for a long time now.. Considering trying this stuff to see how it goes on these clocks.. Anyway, anyone use it? If so hows it hold up longer term? Edit to add a link to the stuff I bought. https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/panel-products/handi-panels/1-4-1-4cat-x-2-x-4-hardboard-panel/1291135/p-1444431332443-c-13337.htm?tid=-574490155626983128&&ipos=6

This is why I bring this up.. If it's not seen then they don't know.. BUT.. How do you sell the stuff online if it's not seen... LOL How do you describe a John Wayne portrait you cut without saying John Wayne wood cutting.. Sure you can leave out that it's John Wayne.. but then who's going to find it or see it.. What's the point of putting it online if you can't describe it for what it is? I don't make this stuff.. But I see people making and selling stuff like this and using the fame of the persons name so it gets found.. Etsy will take it down... not only will they take it down.. IF they take down 3 or more items they'll shut your shop off.. lock it and you cannot reopen one with your name or your internet providers web address..

I see a lot of patterns of actors, singers, bands etc.. Not sure what the laws on these patterns are if one was to make and sell the pieces.. I used to see a lot of these portraits on Etsy.. but over the years I see many sellers of these type of designs disappear.. Used to be a person that was cutting portraits of bands and even just the bands name in the shape of a guitar.. and have seen etsy take them down because of copy write.. It seems the copywite owners do a sweep ever so often on etsy and most of these type of things gets taken down.. even if it's just the bands name etc.. While in the scroll saw community lot of folks talk about it being art etc etc.. and maybe you can sell it as art.. But if you use the bands name or famous persons name on etsy it'll get taken down sooner or later.. They claim it's making money off the person if you're using the bands name or famous persons name etc.. It's piggy backing off their fame.. Years ago I did some portraits.. one was Tim Mcgraw and another was Taylor Swift.. I wasn't selling on etsy at that time but was on another venue and the people on this venue mentioned that it was a copy write violation to sell those said portraits.. They claimed that even using the names of people to describe a item was sort of copy write because you're using the name to grab attention of others off the famous name.. This stuff might not be a copy write violation for selling at a craft show because you do not have to use words to describe the item and a craft show isn't seen world wide either.. This sis something that online sellers need to watch as more and more online shops opening up every day. Just something to think about.. How do you describe a portrait of Taylor Swift without saying her name so people can find i and know what / who it is, LOL Or how do you describe in words a guitar pick shape that says Beatles on it without using their name etc... This is why I do not sell this type of thing.. I have a Harley jigsaw puzzle ( pattern from Iggy ) that I described as a Harley jigsaw puzzle when I first put it up on etsy either last year or the year before.. anyway only a month later or so it was taken down.. If you go look now.. it just says motorcycle puzzle.. I had it taken down because I used the word Harley.. Those of you selling online might want to reconsider not only some of the things you sell but how you describe what you're selling too... because just using the words will get you..

A Thermal printer works real nice too.. no ink or anything to replace or refill.. I only have to replace the paper now and then.. LOL I love this little printer.. now i just need one that does patterns etc.. The one I'm speaking of now is just a shipping label printer.. Well I have used it for patterns too since it's on sticky paper.. but the patterns have to fit on a 4 x 6 inch sheet. LOL My bigger printer I bought recently does BIG sheets.. 11 x 17.. Nice for printing those large portrait patterns... I even found a source of 11 x 17 self adhesive sheets of paper too.. since I try to stay away from the sprays.. I've always used the 8.5 x 11 full sheet shipping labels for my patterns so no messy sprays..

Yes that is true too... Also.. there is a difference in the beeswax too.. there is a yellow color and then more white / clear color.. the white / clear looking beeswax is harder.. takes more heat to melt with the hair dryer.. and the mix usually sets up more firm.. When I made the video.. I used the yellow.. the first time I've used it.. and I have to say.. I like that it doesn't set up quite so hard since I like a softer mix so I can brush it into the fret cutouts easier.. but I do think the harder wax leaves a little better glow or shine to the wood.. which I also think protects the wood a little better too..

I might add that also some wood is dryer than others.. sometimes you really gotta apply quite a lot of the mix on.. let it set for a few hours to soak up the oil and then buff off the wax.. I also will use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the wax and then wipe / buff off the excess..