kmmcrafts

You answered a question I always wondered about.. and that is what way to wrap the bubble wrap.. I've been doing it all wrong for the last 6 years, LOL I did know that the larger bubble wrap was for filling more than protection.. I still use it kinda as a protection but my clocks I wrap about 5 times around.. most clocks are 10 inch long and 5-6 inch tall I package then in the free 12 x 12 x 8 priority boxes but I typically cut the box down to more like 5-6 in high instead of 8.. then I fill in with packing peanuts.. Never had any issues with them.. Clocks are priority mail because of free shipping insurance and boxes.. so the only thing out of my pocket is the packing.. The cost range is $7- 10.50.. with average is mostly $8.50.. sometimes I make a buck on shipping and sometimes I loose a bit.. The ones I always thought I'd have issue with is the delicate Christmas ornaments.. but I pack those in the little jewelry gift boxes that have cotton in them.. then i wrap the box with 2 sheets of the 3/16 bubble wrap by the time you fold that bubble wrap around the box there is about 2-3 inch of padding around the box.. Then i just mail it in a 9 x 6 bubble mailer.. first class mail usually cost $2.70 ish

Thank you, The wheels etc. is all cut.. I have a wood burn tool but not that good at it yet, LOL

Tennessee is mine and my wife favorite state that we've been to so far.. Visited Pigeon Forge years ago and the smoky mountains etc back maybe 8-10 years ago.. then about 4 years ago went and stayed in a cabin at Dale Hollow.. Our most memorable time on that last trip was going to Cummins State Park and hiking back to the big water falls..

Thanks everyone for the nice comments..

Wow! That's awesome!!! Great work..

Actually you just reminded me.. I gotta set up my laser.. Who needs a drill press when you can just burn the holes with the laser

I've seen a few of those and wondered how they might work for this line of stuff.. I may have to look into it more..

This is what I have now... but it's getting an awful lot of slop in the quill and I believe it also has a bad bearing.. as it's getting quite noisy too.. I'll probably take it apart and try to see if I can repair it.. but first I want a back-up one.. will keep my eye out for another one on craigslist etc..

I was looking at those but, they been out of stock for the last 6-8 months... and this is a cheaper option for now..

I think you did a great job on that! also great job on the saves.. I've also been there done that with not paying attention to the grain direction.. but to be honest.. nobody else ever noticed or said anything.. Of coarse I wouldn't sell a piece that I did something like that on but.. have given out many pieces like that.. most of my mess ups end up hanging on my wall of shame as a reminder.. they hang right in my shop.. so I'm reminded every time I look up at the wall... One neighbor comes around and ask if he can have them to make something else with / out of it.. I usually give them to him.. he's always saying " nothing wrong with that it's cool and the flaw gives it character " Something I've learned is without mistakes you don't learn anything.. I've made a lot of them, LOL Now, that sure looks like quarter sawn Red Oak to me.. and yeah... it kinda sucks to cut... I cut all 10 of those wedding crosses from quarter sawn red oak.. glad they're done and on their way to Hong Kong tomorrow.. all packaged and ready to get that order outta my head.. Just praying that nothing gets damaged in shipping.. takes quite a big box for all ten of them and a long way to travel.. I kinda like cutting a pattern with some challenge like this. not challenge because of how many cuts.. but those challenges where you spot a floater and o a save before you actually do the cut, LOL.. I do them a lot like this.. because I try to make many of my own car clock designs and I only do a half a** drawing because I don't like taking the time to clean up a pattern... print myself out a coloring page and just wing it, LOL some how this helps me understand patterns more so... Big reason I never share any of my designs I make.. because pretty sure most anyone else would just make fire wood and several choice words about my design, LOL

Just ordered the plunge router for a Dremel.. and bought the WEN knock-off rotary tool and the mini drill chuck.. I've been wanting this set up for a long time now.. My drill press is getting pretty worn.. Probably going to have to replace it this year sometime.. but meanwhile I'm hoping to just use this for the small entry holes to take some of the wear off my drill press.. Total cost for all was just shy of $60..

Thank you Dave, Nice to hear that from you all that do very high end work.. I'm getting there with practice..

Thank you Les, It's nice to have some of you pro's say I did good... Jim did an awesome job didn't he

Hi Jim, I've not really sold any wood projects that large.. but rule of thumb is a minimum of inch larger box for air space than the actual item.. actually I believe that is what the post office requires as a minimum.. and if it doesn't have that much space they have a right not to pay out on an insurance claim.. IF the piece weighs less than 16oz after packaging First Class mail is the most economical BUT, I find that if the value of a piece exceeds about $50 then actually buy the time you add shipping insurance Priority mail is actually the better way to go.. The commercial mail system on venues such as etsy, amazon, and ebay... even shipping through PayPal.. the priority mail option includes insurance up to a certain amount.. I believe $100 on etsy but the others I think is only $50? not sure but you have to watch it with the different venues.. If the shipping destination is outside the USA you can mail it First Class if it's ( I believe ) under 2 pounds.. I try to make pieces that are sized where I don't have to keep thousands of different sized boxes on hand.. I order boxes from Staples online.. but also most my items will ship in the USPS free priority mail boxes.. NOTE: NOT THE FLAT RATE BOXES.. they have free priority boxes besides those rip off flat rate boxes.. I use their 12 x 12 x 8 and cut them down.. also use the Regional Rate size A.. These don't help you now.. but might with some of your other items.. Maybe they have larger boxes.. as they do have some that I get free that fit my portrait style cuttings.. like 3-4 inch high by 14 x 16 or something like that.. I can't think of the size off the top of my head.. I buy large bubble.. bubble wrap to wrap my pieces in.. I get it from this eBay seller, I see they don't have any right now.. hope they don't stop selling it as they always had the best prices.. https://www.ebay.com/str/SC-Recycling-Pros?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 I also by bubble mailers from them.. Smaller bubble wrap ( 3/16 ) the best deal is at sams club.. Packing peanuts I buy from staples online.. they have always had the best price on this.. but they don't have that great prices in store.. Just did a quick search and looks like maybe uline has good pries now and I also don't see the big bags I normally get at staples.. I buy the big bags.. tall as I am LOL usually get two at a time so I qualify for free shipping.. go through about 2-3 of them a year.. You can order the boxes from the post office.. just look for the free boxes.. I don't use the Flat Rate as it's usually not as low cost of shipping as their regular priority boxes.. Order online and they'll ship them to you.. They aren't too fast at getting them to you though.. so order in advance.. Usually about 10 days or so for me to get them.. Post Office Shipping Supplies Packaging oddball stuff.. I hate using packaging that has weight to it such as packing paper / news papers etc.. so on occasion since we keep ziploc style sandwich bags and freezer bags a couple times to take up space and keep weight down.. I've been known to fill the bags with some air and make bubble pouches .. works well in a pinch.. baggies aren't that cheap so I don't recommend making it standard practice.. LOL Lastly.. I have a local store called Pak Mail and they offer packing and shipping.. not cheap for the packing end of it.. I just use them because they are closer than staples to me and they sell packing supplies.. many different box sizes etc to choose from.. Now.. any specific questions.. let me know.. be glad to offer some help or advice if I can

Yeah I used it on my puzzles when I made them.. but it is more work than just dipping them in the mineral oil as Iggy ( Scott ) does.. I do like the silky smooth feel to the wood that the beeswax mix gives.. But.. If I were doing as many puzzles as Iggy I'd not want to do it this way unless my puzzles was priced at $50+ each.. LOL.. In the warmer months when the Danish oil dries out quicker and better.. I use that.. unless a piece is ordered and needs to get mailed out ASAP.. then I use the wax mix.. The colder months I use the wax mix because i can apply it at my dinning table.. no smells not really any drying times.. I've put the wax on in early morning and mailed out pieces early afternoon... so it's awesome in that aspect.. On items that I make that go to my inventory bins and sit for 6-12 months... I can clearly tell what pieces are Danish oil and what is the wax mix.. The Danish oil dries out and the fret cuts are dry and rough looking / feeling.. the wax mix looks just as good as it did when I put it in the bin with it's soft low sheen look and silky feeling still.. I've sometimes put the wax mix on pieces that was finished with Danish oil to sort of freshen them up before mailing them out.. My wife tells me I should just charge more and make this my main finish.. rather than being in a hurry and just dipping in the Danish oil.. I may just do that once my gallon of Danish oil is gone..

I didn't notice any difference, but I was using it on Cherry.. it might change more with a lighter colored wood ?

I just wanted to update that the "yellow " colored pellet wax is much softer than the white colored block wax I had been using.. The yellow wax has a nice beeswax smell to it.. easier to spread as it's softer.. seems to soak into the wood better as well.. I'll more likely be using this wax from now on..

Well, I finally got this cut.. Thanks @JimErn for making the pattern for me.. Cut this yesterday on the New Hawk using a Pegas #5 blade.. Finished it this morning with the beeswax mineral oil mix I made the other day in my video I posted in the general forum.. I'll update that later with my thoughts on the "yellow" wax.. Also will post on my pattern request page for this pattern as I made some changes to the design as i went.. noticed there where some floaters.. but all went well. I did drill a hole in what I had planed to cut out but realized it before actually cutting..but you might notice a single hole by the running board / side pipes area.. had i cut this the side pipe would have fell off.. Anyway great design.. cutting was easy and a pleasure to do..

Yeah I thought everyone did that? Instead of a lucky penny it’s a lucky nickel to keep you from messing up. Sure saved me on yesterday’s project too.

I’m not sure why it looks that way on the camera because it’s not that way in person. Though it’s not super shiny like the older Hawks either. It looks like they ran a jitterbug sander on it to surface it .

The New Hawk BM-26 running with the nickel on the table.. This saw still isn't as smooth running as the older Ultra Hawk.. and I'm not certain it will.. That said.. so far its a decent saw... It might be just me and being used to the older saw.. But I feel the quality of the saw is not what the quality of the older Hawks that most of us all know.. I'm happy with the saw.. but knowing what the saw is and have run about 7 hours on it now.. I do like the more robust feel of the older Ultra better.. But like I said.. Maybe feel that way just because I haven't put 300+ hours on it yet.. Certainly not as smooth as my ultra.. but I also still haven't adjusted the feet on the legs etc yet.. pretty smooth with the nickel on it at full speed so it passed it but barely LOL I tried to get this video onto youtube but it wouldn't load on there for some reason.. so you may not be able to see this as it's a facebook video from my KevsKrafts facebook page

When doing large fretwork type portraits.. I use tally marks sometimes.. most times I don't care.. but I've had a lot of customers ask.. "dang how many holes you have to drill and cut to make that? " Kinda nice to know or at least have a rough idea.. I've been known to just make up a wild number to see the look on their faces too, LOL.. But anyway.. sometimes I use the tally marks and make a mark every either 10 or 20 -25 holes I drill.. I don't drill all the holes at once in those big detailed fret pieces.. otherwise I'll never get up to move around.. sometimes just getting up and walking across the shop to the drill will keep me from getting too stiff just sitting there. LOL

Yeah, sanding a surface to get a nice look is easy to achieve.. sanding the fretwork not so much fun.. I understand what you are saying and just trying to put some info out there for the others.. I have no interest for sanding out the fretwork pieces to get a nice finish in all those cutouts when just applying the wax and mineral oil works wonders on the wood.. Something I haven't mentioned yet is the fact that the beeswax sort of fills in the fine pores of the wood and give it a nice natural sheen that I haven't been able to achieve with any other finish's.. I realize the finish isn't going to be for everyone.. nor is everyone else's finish going to be for me.. Even the Danish oil finish that many use including me.. leaves the fret work parts looking sort of dry or rough looking unless you sand these areas with real fine sand paper then they look much better.. where as the wax as I said sort of smooths out the end grain look.. sure I can sand the outside end grain edges.. and use a 0/2 blade to cut the frets for a smoother finish look and feel.. but the wax does it all for me and is what works for me.. As for paint's on cars.. rough spots and surface defects many times can be corrected with cutting the paint with 1000-3000 grit wet /dry paper using a drop or two of dish soap in the bucket of water.. then after the flaw is sanded out you can go through the different grades of buffing compounds and wool pads to foam pads to achieve a mirror like finish.. The process can be done on some of the wood finishes as well.. but what a job it would be to get this achieved in the fretwork cutouts..

I don't know how long this last.. I have pieces here from 5-8 years ago that still seem to look the same as they always did.. I don't notice any difference with collecting dust from the Danish oil mix that I use. No idea on shelf live.. I've never had any around more than a year before I had to make another batch... I apply with acid brushes.. you can get a glob of it on the brush and cram it into the small fret cutouts.. when the piece is covered I let it set for at least a couple hours.. most times I like to leave it for a day.. IF you have some fret areas that you can't get the brush into you can heat the wax to a liquid and run it into the areas better.. I just glob it into the small cutout then my last process which is heating the piece with a hairdryer to melt the wax mix into all the small areas and wipe off excess with paper towels.. Being in the autobody industry for many years and having decent spray paint skill set.. I've never been satisfied with spray finishes on fretwork.. It's impossible to do a "Good" even coat of spray on the fretwork cutouts and have the flat surface have the same depth of finish.. but I have a trained eye for finishes and evenness of the finish etc and it's actually a peeve of mine with finishes on most anything, LOL The untrained eye as in most of the people will never see this.. but I do and it bugs the crap outta me.. so I do not spray fretwork pieces.. Don't like brushed pieces either cause of the brush marks. even those nice smooth foam brush finishes.. Its the autobody professions fault to corrupt me this way So I finish with Danish oil or this wax mix.. which gives the most natural look in all of the cutouts etc.. https://www.harborfreight.com/36-pc-12-in-horsehair-bristle-acid-shop-brushes-61880.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Higher+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+(1)+Price+<%2410|61880&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sv447GKkW|pcrid|278978017105|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|61880|&pgrid=56296736066&ptaid=aud-446108146723:pla-297147218149&pcid=1458484684&gclid=CjwKCAjwkcblBRB_EiwAFmfyy_vGLDj9sZtCbMty1eA2Rsn2Ul7QOAEXNZyIX91Qt_l5rEkFEnWJHxoCBk4QAvD_BwE

So that's why they are always out of it when I go... I'm usually going there every few weeks.. but I gotta say.. they must miss me terribly.. I haven't been there since my CNC came in and I went to pick it up.. Matt helped me load it up and said see you in a couple weeks.. LOL.. That has been 2 months or better now..My wife has a store she loves to go to up there.. so she's always asking.. got anything you need at Johnson's ... that's my Que that she want to go shopping, The trick to get her to want me to go to Johnson's is.. I told her about my $0.55 a mile tax deduction I get for mileage for business but I have to buy something so I have proof i was there, Please don't ever tell her the truth, LOL... I do get the tax break for miles.. I just don't really have to buy stuff..