kmmcrafts

Welcome to the Village! Very nice work!!

I understand you.. and agree.. I'm just going to post this one last message about it for someone that could come across this topic then I'm done. Just to say how stupid crazy people are that think they can sue for the dumbest stuff.. There is a Etsy seller right now going through a law suit because the customer got cut on their finger trying to open the box that their item shipped in.. Yeah that's right.. Whether the person wins or looses the court fees and time away from doing their business or / work is going to cost money.. this is a stupid case in my opinion.. But the reality is.. those fees etc would come out of your pocket.. Many insurances cover this type of thing.. Just something to think about JT, I understand your position and that's great that you don't need to worry about it.. I merely am bringing this whole insurance thing up because there are a lot of people here that is selling those puzzles etc.. I myself never had any insurance for several years.. but do enough business the last few years that I felt I should.. Also want to mention another thing.. IF you are selling you're considered a business.. If your shop burns down the home owners insurance company will weasel their way out of paying out on your equipment or anything related to the business.. inventory etc etc.. and could weasel out of paying out on the building if it's solely used as the business.. Many crafters insurance policies will cover this.. I know this first hand from two different small business owners that I personally know... Not trying to be an insurance salesman. just hate to see this stuff happen to my fellow friends here on the village.. Again, I'm done with the topic as JT doesn't want to get into it.. I just felt it should be said for those others that do sell these puzzles.. and sell crafts in general.. Many people do not know this stuff.. Just things to think about..

If a clock falls off the wall and kills a kid or injures someone is why I have liability insurance.. A toy, or puzzle gets into the hands of a child typically a lot easier than a clock hanging on the wall since many people buy puzzles for children.. Maybe bigger kids, but what about the little brother that gets a hold of it if big brother didn't take care of it.. you know as well as I do how the lawyer thing goes down.. even though it's brothers fault for not putting it up.. They don't typically consider clocks a toy.. In talking to the insurance people they specifically ask if I'm making kids toys or anything kid related.. They'd cover me still but at about double the rate..ouch.. It is a shame that that is how it all works.. If I really enjoyed cutting puzzles.. then I'd get the insurance and do it.. This is where selling online can get tricky.. you don't know who the buyer really is.. Maybe a kid that Mom and dad gave a gift / credit card too so they could buy what they wanted.. Not typically that small of a kid could be buying online on his own.. but still you have no clue who is really behind that screen..

I haven't bought any in years since I ordered too many when I did order.. but at that time Seyco was much cheaper.. and yeah.. I bought them for my DeWalt.. That said if I remember correctly.. at that time you couldn't buy just the tips from DeWalt.. which is why I bought them for the EX

To best describe it would be easier with pictures.. But anyway the thumb screws have a small hole in the end.. then there are little pins ( rollers)fit inside the hole that alows the tip of the thumb screw to spin.. Click the link below for the picture of the small pin ( roller ) http://seyco.com/quick-clamp-renewal-kit/ Edit to add: These don't fit the Hawk clamps.. Hawk is american threads.. these are metric... not sure of anything like this with american threads.. Just for your info

Might be the same size as the DeWalt.. I've used the DeWalt set screws in other saws that didn't have the rotating part.. If it's the same as the DeWalt / Excalibur.. then Seyco is where I get mine.. They sell just the tips.. DeWalt you have to buy the whole screw.. Also note.. if you do order from Seyco.. a set is for both upper and lower arms.. somehow when I order the last time.. I ordered double the amount I needed

Yes and no, LOL ... I like to spoil it for everyone, But anyway.. that bump makes for difficult for some blade clamps.. and some detail work where I have a small entry hole that section gets stuck making it difficult to push the blade on through and makes for ruining a blade by bending it.. Yeah I know.. just use a smaller blade.. That's just not my style though

WAY back in the day before I found some of the higher end blades.. I found that those cheap blades were sharper on one side and thus made it easier to do corners and tight turns etc... may still be true with most blades I don't know.. I just do it out of habit more than anything.. and I do cut both directions.. but primarily counter clockwise.. While on the subject.. the habit starts with where I drill the entry hole.. To keep a piece less fragile while cutting I plan my holes strategically so that I am cutting along or next to the previous already cut section first.. then finish up in a place where the piece is more solid.. This is just habit for me after cutting for 12 + years.. but anyway that bur on one side of the blade... that side of the blade is more aggressive which if you have the blade in right side up should be the right side of the blade.. I did this years ago when cutting portraits and doing veining with a straight blade.. now I just use a spiral for veining but anyway.. that's why.. and for general cutting it probably makes no difference.. as well as those blades that cut straighter ( ie pegas MG or Olsen PGT ) there really isn't a bur so it wouldn't make any difference..

JT, I'm sure you've been around the block with selling and the risk of liability etc. BUT I will still say it.. Be careful in who gets the puzzles.. also if you have liability insurance be sure they cover for "kids toys" If you are making puzzles for kids.. Now what you said doesn't sound like a kids puzzle.. but who is to say whether the puzzle is designed for a kid or not? Could be some liability issues down the road... BIG reason I'm not doing puzzles.. because the company I get my insurance from charges quite a lot more for the insurance to cover liability.. In doing research on liability insurance I discovered that there are quite a lot of disclaimers that they don't cover for certain things.. such as kids toys etc.. what category a puzzle falls under as a toy or not? I suppose that depends upon the lawyer you have and the one they have should a suite come your way.. I personally feel that the average person to buy the stand up type of puzzle would be buying it for a child.. since there are mostly less than 15 pieces.. While they are unique and some would buy as a unique gift for someone as well.. In today's sue happy world.. heck even the insurance companies get sue happy to recover their money.. so they possibly could fall back onto the designer as well... Just sayin..

I'm guessing you're talking about 3/4" stock as in the puzzles like Iggy makes.. The puzzle pattern CD I bought from Fox Chapel suggest a #5 blade.. I've cut puzzles from 3/4 hardwoods with the #5.. as well as a number 3.. Typically FD-UR blades but also have cut them with FD-Polar as well as Pegas.. Certainly don't want to go larger than a #5.. The #5 puzzles to me are easier to slide together.. but also are sloppier fitting because of the thicker blade.. Believe I've seen Iggy post he uses a #3 Olsen Mach Speed blade on his DeWalt and i think a #3 Pegas MG blade on his Hawk.. Maybe cut a couple pieces from scrap and see how YOU like the fit of the puzzle with whatever blade you have close to what I had mentioned.. Good luck cutting and more important.. have fun.. Puzzles...heh yeah .. not my thing.. but everyone is different.. I've cut about 20 of them over the years..

To clarify more what is said here.. since when I first read this I thought you put the blades in upside down.. but it took a minute to figure out what you meant.. Run your finger down the blade.. you'll feel running the finger in one direction it is smooth and the other direction the blade wants to grab the skin or feels like it wants to cut.. ( rough feeling ) the saw cuts on the down stroke.. so that grip or rough feeling needs to be placed in the saw so that the rough feel would be going toward the down stroke.. I hope that made sense..

I find that covering the pattern with packing tape after adhering it to the board etc.. you get a fine sawdust gets trapped between the layers and will sometimes cover up my lines.. if this is what you mean? I stopped covering it with packing tape on the top like that long ago..because of this.. I also pre-sand all my work.. and make sure the board it dust free before applying the shelf liner, tape or whatever you use..

Many people ask why the hell I run my saw full speed. I personally have better control when the saw runs full or almost full speed.. better control in corners and straight lines.. I would suggest doing what Spirithourse said.. try different speeds and feed rates and see what one works better for you.. many times we tend to feed the wood too fast on straight lines and that many times will get you off track.. Not sure if you seen my video.. but this saw is running almost full speed.. I did slow it down some here and cut slower than normal.. because I laid the phone down on top of my magnifier light so the phone was covering my view and I was sawing looking through my phone screen which was just weird and odd to cut that way.. LOL.. At any rate.. I run my saw to where I am not pushing the wood hardly at all.. if anything I feel like I'm pulling back on the wood to keep it from going too fast and messing me up, LOL

I have to wonder... where are you seeing straight lines? I've never seen any straight lines while scroll sawing.. .. Just make them up as you go like I do.. at the end of the day nobody knows it was supposed to be straight. except those that know the patterns.. which is why I use un-known designs No now on a more serious note.. I think you've gotten some really good advice from here.. I don't have anything to add other than some humor to lighten up the day.. As for going back and forth from Pegas to FD to Olsen LOL.. yeah after a while you just get used to switching.. I adjust fairly quickly now because for all last summer I kept switching from one saw to the next and I use different blades n each saw.. Hey.. excuse for a new saw.. I don't have a saw for that size blade yet.. .. Anyway.. I haven't done much of any detailed fairly advanced portrait work in quite a long time... today.. I've been re-learning spiral blades.. cut out a 120 holes so far and maybe 1/4 done.. been many more but like I said.. having to relearn the spirals.. not only that.. but.. I've never used a spiral blade on the Hawk saws either.. LOL.. If it turns out without me getting mad and throwing the piece across the shop.. I'll post pictures when done, LOL

That is me this time of year as well... I do work a little on and off all day.. but find it easy to come here and get distracted from what I should be doing..

Your 216 has the C arm? I thought the pictures you showed before of it, it was built like the normal Hawks.. with the upper and lower arm connected at the back of the saw with the tension rod wedges and tension cam lever.. This one I show in the link has a one piece arm and the tension cam at the front... odd for a 216.. but it appears to be the first series of the 216.. probably not many out there like this..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Scroll-Saw-RBI-Industries-Model-216-Excellent-Condition/253434198505?hash=item3b01daf9e9:g:UXcAAOSwU9RaiMXi This looks like it must be a really old Hawk or a Mutt saw, LOL I can't decide if it's really a Hawk or not.. Not the arms on this.. looks to me to be a one piece C arm.. The stand is surely a Hawk.. but just don't know about that saw.. Note it also has the Hawk style tension lever at the front.. Never seen the 216 have the tension lever at the front like that.. I think I'm going to visit the Hawk site and look at the early model manuals.. but this set up is certainly a rare one if it is a Hawk.. Edited to add: I just looked.. yeah sure is a Hawk.. That C arm design would make this a more aggressive cutting saw.. much like the Delta Q3 saws back in the day.. http://www.hawkwoodworkingtools.com/files/SawManuals/model_216_eagle_serial_1_-_500.pdf

I wasn't born this perfect has taken me years to get to the point I am now.. at the rate I'm going.. I won't live long enough to even see any kind of pedestal.. But I will say.. I'm pretty persistent because in my mind.. failing isn't an option..

Yeah I checked the power of the internet and your links only turn up " obsolete no replacement options and out of stock"

https://www.ebay.com/p/Delta-Scroll-Saw-Blade-Holder-40-155/1751381017 The power of the internet.. I just searched for the model number of the saw for a parts diagram.. ( ereplacement parts and parts direct.. then took the part number of the blade clamp and did a search for that..

Yeah,, sure have been there.. my most recent one was posted here.. and I didn't even break it.. I mis-spelled it in the pattern design work.. then proceeded to cut it out and apply a finish on it.. I didn't even catch this mistake until I was packaging it up and getting ready to deliver it to the customer.... Also have been known to glue the backer on the front side of the project a few times, LOL

I don’t know how i forgot about these designers. I use many of their patterns. Also would say all of them from here, but I was thinking of the ones with their own websites etc. maybe some of them do? If so I don’t know about it and they should put it in their signature:)

I almost exclusively use Cherry wood or BB ply.. throw in a few others but mostly cherry..love working with it..

Hmm I guess I don't know who Marilyn Carmin is or Carl Taylor... Heard of Mike Fehring.. Charles Dearing does some awesome work.. however most of it is portrait style cutting.. which I don't do a lot of ( Yet.. I plan to do more of it this year ).. So.. since i don't know a whole lot of these designers.. I have to say.. I've purchased more patterns from Sue Mey than any of the others.. so I guess for now she would be my favorite.. Some favorites that I don't see any more is.. Dave Hall, loved his car themed portraits.. Kevin Daily used to make some nice's ones too.. but again.. these two mostly cranked out portraits.. One I used to really like was Sylvia ( The Sawdust Mistress ).. but she left the pattern / scrollsaw world when hubby retired and they bought a motor home to travel the world..that's been some years ago. LOL I use a few of arpops patterns from his blog.. not sure how many of these I mention actually did this to sell patterns or had their patterns in books.. Maybe we need to list a bunch of designers.. I thought I knew most of them. but I've never heard of a few of these you mentioned.. Now you got me thinking Oh yeah, Andy Dean did awesome car patterns too.. Something I'd like to see more of.. is wall type clocks.. I have about a 110 different desk clocks I offer.. with many more patterns that I haven't yet made.. yet I only have about 20 wall clocks.. so if any designers out there feel like making clock patterns... Have at it.. I'm on the lookout for them, LOL Like to have about 50-75 different designs to add to my site before next holiday season..

Thank you, I originally thought the bolt in mine was wrong because it has so much slop (ie the arm will come down so the blade will almost go past the top of the upper arm if all the way down).. then I looked in the manual and it came from Hawk with a bolt... must be before they figured out they could just use the threaded rod with a lock nut.. I think I will buy some of the threaded rod and make one..