kmmcrafts

I had thought about going the dremel route.. It'd be nice if I already had a dremel tool.. Well I do.. actually rarely used the thing even though I've burned up 3 of them over the years.. I kind of felt they aren't super reliable.. Maybe I just got three lemons LOL .. at any rate.. buying another dremel tool and then the router attachment.. looking at $60+ I can get a drill press for about that at HF.. The seyco scrollers drill is $109.. so while the dremel option is cheaper than the scrollers drill a drill press does all I need it to as well.. plus if needed could run the forestner bit if something should happen to the very old Delta drill press I have.. Those that do have the Dremel or Seyco scrollers drill.. How is the power drilling 1/16 or 1/8 pilot holes in 3/4" hardwood stock? The dremel tools I've had was short on power.. especially at the lower speeds.. Again.. all three tools I owed burned up fairly little use.. so maybe they wasn't working right anyway.. Also.. do you have the battery dremel or a corded one? If I went that route.. I like the idea of small compact and portable ( cordless ) so I could move to my work bench to drill holes etc.. I'm torn between the drill press and the small portable dremel or like tool..

Yeah, there has been many post on here about the dremels etc.. also have to note that many dremels have very high speeds.. which will burn up bits much faster.. so be careful on the dremel you choose if you was to make one.. the savings might get eaten up in drill bits.. over a period of time.. Hobbyist maybe ok.. but in a production standpoint.. I go through enough bits every year.. don't plan on adding to those numbers, LOL.. while they are cheap bits.. just something one would have to weigh out the options.. If I was doing a lot of portrait work one of those deals would work awesome.. but most of what I do my 8" drill press if fine.. a 10 inch would make 99% of my needs.. I've looked at the HF presses a few times and pondered this idea over the last year or so.. But I haven't really looked at any reviews or anything.. and quite honestly don't know much about drill presses.. never heard of the feature you mentioned about the quill lock.. which is why I've kind of asked about them.. that seems like it could be handy..

I've been considering buying a couple drill press's.. Anyone else have a few drill press's? I'd like to set up a drill press dedicated to my 1-3/8" forstner bit.. every time I have to change the dang bit from mini drill bits to forestner bit to this to that, LOL... My drill press is a old Delta 8" bench top and changing the speed requires moving the belt from the stack of pulleys.. I run it on a faster speed for mini drill bits and slowest speed for the forstner bits.. Cannot tell you how many times a week I switch back and forth.. Not a big deal when doing inventory as I'll cut a bunch of clocks then change the set up to the forstner bit and drill 30 -40 at a time.. but when I get those made to order sales and have to crank out just one clock.... just not getting it with me.. So just looking for tips on what to look for in a drill press.. Probably just another small benchtop but open to ideas.. The one I have now is my first one that I picked up 12+ years ago at a tractor swap meet.. Best $2 tool I ever bought I think. Some things I wish it had.. probably number one is.. a geared table adjustment ( crank it to move table up or down ).. and some sort of lever to adjust the speed.. However if I dedicate a drill for certain jobs.. then this wouldn't quite be as necessary.. Deeper throat to drill bigger projects could be a plus.. I'll likely buy something used or cheap..harbor freight since I'm just looking for a dedicated machine.. but.. I could use the one I have now for the dedicated Forstner one and buy a better one for pilot holes etc.. Thought about the seyco drill thing but a little pricey for a dedicated pilot hole drill.. not many projects I make that need more than what my drill press can do and if I got one just a little deeper throat then I don't see having that issue at all.. or very little..

Just out tinkering in the shop with the Hawks.. getting them more user friendly for me.. Anyone on here that uses the older Hawk that has a bolt at the back of the saw that connects the upper and lower arm? The older Hawks ( depending on saw size ) used either a 8" or 8.5" ( I think that was the sizes ) bolt.. My old 220VS saw when connecting the blade the upper arm will come down well past the blade stop in the clamp.. so I am continually adjusting the height of the upper arm when connecting the blade in the clamp.. The newer Hawk has a threaded rod with a lock nut.. etc and you can turn the lock nut on the rod to adjust the arm stop at the desired height.. so you can bring the arm down to the correct height every time.. Not sure if my Hawk has the right bolt length in it or if that was just how they was back in the day.. I shimmed mine with some washers for a temporary fix.. but not sure if the added weight will affect the function of the saw.. Probably will measure the distance and either buy a bolt the correct length or maybe just update it with a threaded rod with the lock nut etc.. like my newer Hawk.. Also been testing the different heights of blocks to make my foot switch user friendly so I can sit on my stool comfortably while sawing.. I've always had to stand or sit on the edge of the stool and stretch to reach the foot switch.. Maybe I should just eat some miracle grow and hope I get taller .. my luck I'd just get fat..

Well EVERYTHING.. has potential for problems whether it's a scroll saw a car or something simple such as scroll saw blades.. Yes.. Got a bad batch of FD blades once and they kept breaking.. I thought it was my saw.. until it was brought up on one of the message boards.. Here I was tweaking my saw doing all kinds of things from changing thumb screws etc etc. SO with that said.. I don't care if you buy a NEW.. Hawk, Hegner, or any other saw.. there is the possibility of getting a lemon.. as Iggy did in is first saw.. How the company handles your lemon is maybe something to consider if you have this mentality and think everything new is absolutely be perfect.. and if you don't like tinkering with equipment ect.. I don't honestly care what saw anybody uses or has, what they paid for it etc etc.. I do like to read about peoples experience of a saw.. however I just take that with a grain of salt.. just like I said before.. not one saw out there that someone doesn't have a complaint about.. If someone has a saw that wore out in one year.. maybe it's a maintenance issue.. kind of like driving a car for 10 years and never changing the oil.. vrs one that changes the oil when it needs it... or like running recycled oil in one car and high end synthetic oil in another .. what one you think last longer. LOL Most all lower - mid range saws really have no maintenance guidelines to follow.. they simply think you'll just use it and throw it out and buy another one.. Higher end saws recommend a few drops of oil every X amount of use.. ANY low - mid range saw can and would last as long as a Hawk or Hegner with maintenance.. but they aren't built in a way to maintain them easily.. so no one does it... if one doesn't like taking the saws apart and doing maintenance then one should look for a saw that is easily maintained.. or plan a new saw in your budget every couple years... People buy low to mid range saws and complain they only last a year or two.. yet they never once oiled / greased it.. Any of the higher end saws will also wear out.. if not maintained ..

Domestic 1-7 Cherry ( I use mostly cherry so that was easy LOL) 8 is Maple ( also use a bit of that ) 4 Cedar 3-6 Oak? Not a great view so not sure.. 2 Poplar? Also not a great view.. Exotic 1-2 Purple Heart? 4 Resembles Mahogany ?

Thanks everyone, for the comments..

I agree with JT.. Everyone will have a different like or dislike about a saw.. I was sort of on the same kick as Iggy with the speed issue.. But I am always determined to find a way.. Hundreds i people out there that love their Hawks.. I've been playing with my Hawk saw with different blade configurations etc.. and I now have been sawing since around the new year solely on my Hawk 226.. and growing to love the saw.. Something that bugged me with the Ex I bought is having to lift the arm up.. For some reason I just hate that.. and the thing I love about my Hawk and the DeWalt with the easy lift attachment.. While again.. I haven't used my EX-21 but to cut two ornaments.. Maybe in time I could grow used to it. .. as I have with the other saws... I wouldn't let one or two peoples bad experience's influence a decision of a tool.. In many cases.. their opinions are bias to what they are used to.. BUT.. at any rate.. My point for posting this is.. I think anyone with time can and will adjust to different saws as I've done.. I remember loving how smooth my DW-788 ran when I first got it.. but boy did I hate how aggressive it was to cut on..then going to a saw that wasn't as aggressive was like watching snails passing you on a highway LOL.. I was persistent to use it because I just spent big money ( at the time in my Financial standpoint) and was just determined to use it.. which in time I did..Sometimes in learning to use a different type saw.. you need to re-learn your go to blade selection etc.. but in time you'll figure out how to best use that particular saw..

That is just part of the backer. The backer is just foam sheets from Michael's.. It's not framed in the picture but it was just cut from 1/8 Oak ply

Not really a new cut.. just thought since it was Valentines Day I share some past cuts I've done.

You’ll get a lot of opinions on this. Parts for either saw will be hard to find as Excalibur doesn’t support those old saws anymore either. If it were me and I wasn’t sure if I’d like scroll sawing, I’d go with the Delta. But I might also wait a bit for a better more modern saw too. While the one saw is $280 and you mentioned $250 plus fuel and a road trip. I’m guessing you’d be able to pay more for another saw that could show up closer to home? If both saws are somewhat close to each other make arrangements to go look at both in the one trip and see what one looks / works best then make a decision

I've yet had any complaints about the smaller inserts.. While yes.. I do test each one.. once an order comes in.. I set aside the clocks I'll be using and activate them for a day or so while I'm making the item in the shop.. I've yet to find a bad one. But.. I do order the best motors and clocks I can get.. That said.. I have had the bigger inserts test bad.. as well as even after I send one out.. after my testing of the clock.. have had customers complain.. I just send them another insert.. I like making the customer set up the clock so they somewhat have an idea of how to do so the next time it needs set or a battery change.. Like I said.. they throw out the paper or loose it by the time the battery goes dead.. I am however looking into attaching the instructions to the bottom s you have done.. Which is also why I asked what others do.. Even with the instructions.. I'll most likely leave the time setting to the customer... Also not sure how good for the clock it would be to have it running while getting bumped around etc during transit to it's destination.. Many customers are buying a few months out in advance too.. so the battery is just wasting away for nothing.. That said, LOL Most customers buy it today and want it delivered last week LOL.. I guess everyone has a different method and reasoning to their method.. Not really a right or wrong way of doing it I suppose... I've only had the one complaint from the older lady.. so I balk it up as "you can't do it right for everyone every time" Had I set it up for her in the first place.. I'd have never had the complaint until a year or better when the battery dies.. and I'd rather make it right for her now than later.. I've sold a couple thousand of these over the couple of years.. and only the one complaint.

I've never cut luan before.. actually don't even know what it is.. ? Guess I'll look next time I'm at the lumber supplier to see what it is.. I cut a lot of BB ply and regular plywood.. though..

I have the same hole on my 1998 Hawk 226. Was planning something similar. Been too cold to do much of anything extra other than make the orders that come in. Glad to see you did this and are happy with the results.

In the past.. I have used wood screws.. they can be removed and used on the next project.. that said. I feel the tape is the fastest option I've used so far.. the pin nailer sounds interesting .. I don't have one but.. maybe I will get one to try it out.. it would come in handy for other things too.. plus. that's an excuse for a new TOY Tool..

Depends on what saw I'm using and how ambitious I feel.. At the DeWalt saw I sit.. the rest of the saws are missing the stool, LOL ... I do move the stool from saw to saw sometimes however the other saws are different height and the stool is too tall.. or maybe it's the saw is too short, .. But to really answer the question.. I prefer to sit.. I just haven't adjusted the stands, foot peddle, and stools to make them work best for me.. but if I'm cutting for the whole day or something then I do move the stool.. but just playing around for a bit on one of the other saws.. I stand....

Not to change the subject.. but I'd love a shop at 42F LOL Looking right now and planning to head out to cut these orders I got over the weekend.. my shop is a whopping 5F right now..

If you hook it to external T-stat it should cut off and on like a normal furnace etc.. BUT.. Yes.. you'd want to shut it down if you're done in the shop..

Sounds like the safety device is kicking in. My guess is the device works with the T-stat. Wonder if you took it apart and wired it to a external T-stat down lower.

Whatever I’m cutting whether it’s stack cutting or not. I don’t typically like to cut more than 3/4” thick material. I stack 6 @ 1/8” or 3 1/4” 2 3/8” etc. that said. I do cut 1 - 1/2” stacks sometimes if I’m cutting backers to match the size and cut all at once. Not with a #3 blade of coarse lol. Usually a # 7 or 9 then depending on the detail of the cut.

I use something similar to that.. but its scotchbrite type pads and I get them from Harbor Freight.. chuck them up in the drill press.. works great for me.. but your method looks as though it'd work pretty well too,

Nothing wrong with the process.. how I've done it for the last 10 years. but I did have one customer complaint about it being very hard to get the clock out to set it up.. BUT.. this was a older lady with arthritis.. she actually broke the woodwork piece trying to get it out.. This was few years ago.. and I obviously sent a free replacement and set it up for her before I sent it in the mail... but I often wondered if there might be a better way.... I don't like the idea of setting it up before I ship it out. simply because the customer ( I figure) would throw away the instructions etc and not have a clue how to get the clock out for changing battery or setting time.. If they have the paper and have to set it the first time.. They should sort of have a clue what to do later down the road when the time comes for the battery etc.. I might look into seeing about having a sticker with the instructions etc on the bottom as JT did.. with the battery number too.. Nothing wrong with y current system.. but if I can improve it then that is a good thing..

Thanks JT. Beautiful clocks you made! How did you attach the papers to the bottom of the clocks? Since I use beeswax and mineral oil for the finish I'm thinking stickers and tape etc would probably not stick..

I put my stack together ( blanks cut all the same size ) with the top piece covered with shelf liner and then use packing tape apply about 1/4 - 1/2 inch onto the top board and then stand the stack up and get them all lined up with each other.. fold the tape over the edge and around to the back side.. repeat all for sides.. only way I've ever done it..

Makes me wonder if you a) got a bad batch of liner b) had it on the project for months c) have a different brand that what has been used I have used the shelf liner for about 5-6 years now.. never once had any issues as you mentioned other than with packing tape when left for several weeks.. Now.. I ave used both.. con-tact and duck brand.. I did have a batch of ( believe it was con-tact ) that was quite sticky but nothing like you mentioned.. not sure if it was an older roll or if it had got set in the sunlight or something that heated / melted it on.. because it was only on one project that did that.. and the rest of the roll was fine.. I have windows in my shop and the sun shines in just right sometimes will shine right on my saw table.. which is what I speculate may have caused my issue..