kmmcrafts

I don't know what your location is.. or your budget but if you are close to where member Iggy is.. sounds like he is going to be selling a very lightly used Hawk BM26.. They are awesome saws for precision work.. Just a thought. he just posted tonight he was selling it..

Sorry the saw didn't tickle your fancy.. They are great saws.. but like you.. if I had to choose just one of my saws.. oh boy that would be a tough call for me.. I really do like my Hawks.. but on the other hand.. I like my 788's too.. haven't hardly used my Excalibur yet.. Sounds like someone will be getting an awesome deal on a very lightly used Hawk.. You probably don't even have 80 hours on it yet do you..

Yeah that's how I bought mine years ago.. but mine was Corel Draw 13.. if you use windows 10 it'll work but it's unstable and might crash the system like mine did..

Might be of more help if we know the version you downloaded.. as well as your operating system.. when windows 10 first came out none of my drawing / photo editing software worked right with it.. and corel draw actually crashed my computer.. as it was a old version.. ( actually why I use inkscape now ) Not paying big $$ for corel draw if inkscape does what I need for free..

Travis, is this someone you know?? I ask because if they have the ability to seek out and find the scroll saw village.. I feel like they also have the same ability to look on etsy and other like site to get their quote from.. This message looks much like one that goes around spamming the handmade selling sites I sell on.... Not saying it's a scam.. but I find it odd that they ask you while they can also find many sigh shops not only local to them.. but also on Etsy or other sites.. why did they come here and ask? The scammers are really getting tricky in their approaches.. and many times it's hard to tell if it's a real inquiry or a scam.. I shy away from these fishy type of deals that really don't make a lot of sense..

JT, I use a homemade mix of beeswax and mineral oil.. mixed to the consistency of a paste wax.. then apply with an acid brush.. gob it on in the frets where the brush doesn't fit well then heat it with a hair dryer / heat gun.. the force of the dryer on high will blow the melted mix into the cutouts until it runs out the back side.. wipe off excess with paper towels and it's done..Not as easy as just dipping in Danish oil but never had a issue with it bleeding out etc like I've had with those other finishes..and I don't have to deal with waiting periods for drying nor any strong smells to get my customer high when they open the box.. I had got complaints of that in the past..even after waiting 7-10 days.. Doing online selling.. as "made-to-order" type selling.. people don't want to wait 2 weeks for the item to get made.. then another 2 weeks for the item to dry.. then the shipping times etc etc.. so I did a lot of researching.. this mix I make seems to be the best solution.. Many times I make an item and mail it out the very same day..

I have one similar to Iggy's as well and have test tubes.. As for stickers.. I made some of my own with inkscape and printed them out on my shipping label papers.. cut to size , peel and stick..

Here is a picture of the replacement.. I do at least one stupid mistake like this every year.. then I get to relaxed and don't check / double check. Last year was gluing a backer and mistakenly glued to the front side LOL

Yeah that is Cherry.. and I did glue the base..I used to always use screws for the base mount.. but switched to glue a year or so ago.. I plan to modify it in some way to save it.. Quite a simple cut as there's not a whole lot of inside cuts.. so I figured it'd just be faster and more productive to make another one which I did do today.. already done and will ship it out tomorrow.. How this all happen was in my files on the computer, the customer corrected me on it in the pattern I showed her. I made a new pattern but never deleted the old one.. printed the wrong pattern..

Hey, I know I haven't been around much lately due to a bookkeeping snafu ( post abut this later in the week ) and I am now just dropping in post a picture of my latest "ornamental firewood" LOL Had a request for a Aston Martin desk clock.. so I put together a pattern.. showed the customer the design and she loved it but told me to make sure I change the spelling as I had it "Aston Marton" Guess what? I changed it alright.. see photo.. I didn't even catch this until I was listing a add on the website..and my spell checker went off on a typo i did and not even on the car name.. on another word but then I looked and somehow caught it.. I had already sent out the invoice to the customer and was getting ready to mail this out today.. glad I decided to make a Made To Order listing on etsy where I caught the mis-spelling.. LOL.. Anyway enjoy the good laugh while I get back to work.. many orders to fill this week and the bookkeeping snafu.. I probably won't be around much this week yet.. just had to drop in to say I'm still around.. just very busy..

I have a few boxes of leftover from re-flooring my house.. I did cut some on my saw for some custom shaped pieces I needed.. I do know it really dulls a chop saw blade quite fast.. but I didn't cut enough on the scroll saw to really know how it was for those blades.. Did learn after my dull chop saw blade that if I scored it with a box cutter type knife you could snap it.. much like drywall board.. I may have to dig out some of those and see how it goes.. if good cutting.. one could hook up with a flooring installer for cut offs etc.. to probably supply more than they'd need..

I've seen the stuff in many stores.. Yes Dollar stores too.. Years ago someone mentioned that they buy the 12" wide and use a paper shear to cut the 8.5 sheet of paper size.. But I buy both 12" wide for more of my smaller cutting.. but in some cases it's not wide enough for big portrait style cutting.. so I also buy 18" wide..

I print the patterns on full sheet shipping labels.. when possible.. I hate getting that glue all over the surrounding area where it's sprayed.. as well as all over my fingers, LOL.. then I just peel and stick to the shelf liner.. no mess..

This is what mine had.. and where I got mine.. Son did my soldering as he had a new Snap-On solder torch thing he was inching to try We tested the old switch and the wires to find what wire needed to go where... however I think either he got mixed up or the new switch is backward... whatever happen the first time round the switch worked backwards.. ie high speed was slow and low speed was high, LOL.. I didn't care but son wanted to make it right... think he just wanted to play with the new soldering iron some more https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-1k-ohm-Linear-Taper-Log-Pot-B1K-Solder-Lugs-Split-Shaft-Potentiometer-EW/111400183535?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

No his was a 16".. mine was a 21" back a couple months ago.. still strapped in the box.

Yes I also experience the lifting up in the cold.. mainly just in the corners or near the edge of the board..not really effecting the cutting or patterns..

I'm betting they are not worn too bad..as long as you have been oiling it as recommended.. My old 220Vs bearings was like new still.. not sure how much it had been used but it's a 1993 and the wedges was worn as well as the front blade holder cam.. This one didn't have the newer design with the hex screw on the bottom to adjust the tension of the cam.. lots of things was worn.. yet the bearings looked darn good... The bearings on this saw was a ( not sure what you call them ) washer type thing with ball bearings in it then sandwiched between two washers.. My newer Hawk had steal cage bearings that are open ( unsealed ) and the center of the cage you can see the ball bearings.. These was dry.. not sure if they are supposed to be greased or oiled.. Manual says to add a few drops of oil every so often.. which I added more than recommended.. yet taking the saw apart they was dry..and I really don't see how oil could even get to them unless you'd pour a quart or so on each side.. LOL.. I packed these with synthetic grease.. runs much smoother.. I bought enough bearings to do the other saw thinking it was the same set up.. My sealed bearings in the arm from the motor to lower arm was also very dry bearings.. maybe the grease dried up? the saw was new in the box when I got it in May 2017.. but is a 1998 according to Bushton... Also something to consider on these bearings ( made in China ) but back in those days was maybe when a lot of companies started moving out of the USA and having China do our parts.. when this all first took place.. quality of China made stuff was pretty poor... China made stuff these days doesn't scare me nearly as bad as back in the 80's 90's..

I need to look for more deals... you're catching up with me.. I have 5 saws.. 2 Hawks, DeWalt, EX-21 and an old 2 speed Delta

You need to grab that one up Ray, LOL

Only burning issues I've ever had with cherry is with the wrong blades, LOL.. Have never burned with the Pegas MG blades.. but most all the other blades yes.. I do need to slow it some

This is the light I have from Menards.. I bought my first one back in 2007 and then got another around 2011 ish.. Been trouble fee ever since until I broke the bulb tonight, LOL.. Think I'm going to buy the one in the second link in the post reply above.. and if it goes well... I'll buy another of these mag lights.. Got a friend that bought LED shop lights for his garage.. I bought the florescent style and put in replacement LED bulbs.. mine are two years old now.. his one year almost.. his quit working.. and had to toss out the whole unit as no replaceable bulbs.. I like to but lights and hang them once then replace bulbs.. not a big fan of replacing /hanging new light fixtures all the time... Which is why I'm thinking about going this route rather than a whole new LED magnifier.. That said.. with these type lights.. the springs and hardware do wear out so replacing the whole unit might not be too bad as long as the LED light hold up several years..

Yeah me too.. I just blew up a bulb when my hawk saw broke a blade.. apparently had the light too close and the blade broke and flew up and busted my bulb.. So far.. I found this.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Aspects-22W-Equivalent-Warm-White-T9-Dimmable-LED-Retrofit-Kit-RFKIT22/207056636?cm_mmc=Shopping|VF|G|0|G-VF-PLA|&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkZHTBRCBARIsAMbXLhFR2t6eK71CJgWnbxQePhk4WNYnxp6-sOa52mKVeBMVD3wZ_hBRXPkaAms8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNLy-JeS6tgCFQayTwodcsMFBQ https://www.homedepot.com/p/Meridian-22-Watt-Equivalent-Cool-White-T9-Circline-Non-Dimmable-LED-Light-Bulb-13144/302072545?cm_mmc=Shopping|VF|G|0|G-VF-PLA|&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkZHTBRCBARIsAMbXLhGYSxjklzICKDjaIahsieUlslMNIYijdOhSY7SBb2HaGax5Bv-7zLEaAhDzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNak2PGT6tgCFUy7Twod_v8Mvg I looked around about a year or so ago for LED replacements for the circular tube lights and didn't find much..

Okay, so today I was out messing around with my Hawk 220VS.. I had a order come in last night and this morning.. figured since I had just went through the saw and installed a new front tension cam and upper blade holder.. I'd play a little and do some experimenting.. I been thinking about the blade motion between the Hawk and the DeWalt.. and wondered if one.. I was burning through blades faster because the sawdust may not be able to clear out of the blade as good as it does on the aggressive cutting 788.. I started messing around with SPM speed while cutting on some 3/4" cherry... My 788 typically stays about 3/4 + on the speed dial.. The 788 runs 1750SPM.. My old 220VS tops out at 1500SPM.. so I normally ran it full speed.. I always felt that with the 788 the blade just eats the wood like a starved pig, LOL but when I cut on my Hawks.. it's more like just nibbling like a stuffed hamster, LOL I started messing around with the SPM while cutting just playing with the dial.. the Hawk slowed down to just over the half way mark on the dial and all of a sudden the thing acted as if it was a very hungry pig.. now I'm thinking maybe the Hawk actually might be able to cut nearly as fast as the 788.. thinking maybe the faster blade speed coupled with a less aggressive saw may be running the saw too fast for the blade to efficiently clear out the sawdust.. and also creating more heat.. thus the blade dulls much faster.. Years ago when i first started with the 788 I always felt the saw was too aggressive and the very aggressive cutting would rock the board back and forth unless you was really holding it down.. and turns was a PIA.. until one day I figured out the the faster the saw blade runs the less it wants to bounce my board back and forth.. thus.. I run this saw at the faster speeds.. just assumed all saws was that way.. slowing the Hawk blade speed down.. I just cut a clock out this afternoon probably about as fast as I would have on the 788.. with slower blade speed... and used just one blade.. well two blades to be honest but the first one broke because I was messing with adjusting the tension.. guess I had it too tight at first..

No, I bought local at Edwards Industrial.. My family does a lot of business with this company and know us from the Sawmill business..always there getting hydro hoses, bearings or something, LOL

I buy all my bearings from a local company.. they know I'm looking for quality when I walk through the door.. I know the guys there from parts chasing for my brothers sawmill over the years and also for the company I used to work at.. They always get me the Timkien if they can.. otherwise the best other brand they can get.. Place is called Edwards Industrial.. I also use another local place called Detroit Ball Bearing.. Yes, I buy the good bearings... and use a good grease.. I'm usually good to go for many years..