kmmcrafts

I have a few boxes of leftover from re-flooring my house.. I did cut some on my saw for some custom shaped pieces I needed.. I do know it really dulls a chop saw blade quite fast.. but I didn't cut enough on the scroll saw to really know how it was for those blades.. Did learn after my dull chop saw blade that if I scored it with a box cutter type knife you could snap it.. much like drywall board.. I may have to dig out some of those and see how it goes.. if good cutting.. one could hook up with a flooring installer for cut offs etc.. to probably supply more than they'd need..

I've seen the stuff in many stores.. Yes Dollar stores too.. Years ago someone mentioned that they buy the 12" wide and use a paper shear to cut the 8.5 sheet of paper size.. But I buy both 12" wide for more of my smaller cutting.. but in some cases it's not wide enough for big portrait style cutting.. so I also buy 18" wide..

I print the patterns on full sheet shipping labels.. when possible.. I hate getting that glue all over the surrounding area where it's sprayed.. as well as all over my fingers, LOL.. then I just peel and stick to the shelf liner.. no mess..

This is what mine had.. and where I got mine.. Son did my soldering as he had a new Snap-On solder torch thing he was inching to try We tested the old switch and the wires to find what wire needed to go where... however I think either he got mixed up or the new switch is backward... whatever happen the first time round the switch worked backwards.. ie high speed was slow and low speed was high, LOL.. I didn't care but son wanted to make it right... think he just wanted to play with the new soldering iron some more https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-1k-ohm-Linear-Taper-Log-Pot-B1K-Solder-Lugs-Split-Shaft-Potentiometer-EW/111400183535?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

No his was a 16".. mine was a 21" back a couple months ago.. still strapped in the box.

Yes I also experience the lifting up in the cold.. mainly just in the corners or near the edge of the board..not really effecting the cutting or patterns..

I'm betting they are not worn too bad..as long as you have been oiling it as recommended.. My old 220Vs bearings was like new still.. not sure how much it had been used but it's a 1993 and the wedges was worn as well as the front blade holder cam.. This one didn't have the newer design with the hex screw on the bottom to adjust the tension of the cam.. lots of things was worn.. yet the bearings looked darn good... The bearings on this saw was a ( not sure what you call them ) washer type thing with ball bearings in it then sandwiched between two washers.. My newer Hawk had steal cage bearings that are open ( unsealed ) and the center of the cage you can see the ball bearings.. These was dry.. not sure if they are supposed to be greased or oiled.. Manual says to add a few drops of oil every so often.. which I added more than recommended.. yet taking the saw apart they was dry..and I really don't see how oil could even get to them unless you'd pour a quart or so on each side.. LOL.. I packed these with synthetic grease.. runs much smoother.. I bought enough bearings to do the other saw thinking it was the same set up.. My sealed bearings in the arm from the motor to lower arm was also very dry bearings.. maybe the grease dried up? the saw was new in the box when I got it in May 2017.. but is a 1998 according to Bushton... Also something to consider on these bearings ( made in China ) but back in those days was maybe when a lot of companies started moving out of the USA and having China do our parts.. when this all first took place.. quality of China made stuff was pretty poor... China made stuff these days doesn't scare me nearly as bad as back in the 80's 90's..

I need to look for more deals... you're catching up with me.. I have 5 saws.. 2 Hawks, DeWalt, EX-21 and an old 2 speed Delta

You need to grab that one up Ray, LOL

Only burning issues I've ever had with cherry is with the wrong blades, LOL.. Have never burned with the Pegas MG blades.. but most all the other blades yes.. I do need to slow it some

This is the light I have from Menards.. I bought my first one back in 2007 and then got another around 2011 ish.. Been trouble fee ever since until I broke the bulb tonight, LOL.. Think I'm going to buy the one in the second link in the post reply above.. and if it goes well... I'll buy another of these mag lights.. Got a friend that bought LED shop lights for his garage.. I bought the florescent style and put in replacement LED bulbs.. mine are two years old now.. his one year almost.. his quit working.. and had to toss out the whole unit as no replaceable bulbs.. I like to but lights and hang them once then replace bulbs.. not a big fan of replacing /hanging new light fixtures all the time... Which is why I'm thinking about going this route rather than a whole new LED magnifier.. That said.. with these type lights.. the springs and hardware do wear out so replacing the whole unit might not be too bad as long as the LED light hold up several years..

Yeah me too.. I just blew up a bulb when my hawk saw broke a blade.. apparently had the light too close and the blade broke and flew up and busted my bulb.. So far.. I found this.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Aspects-22W-Equivalent-Warm-White-T9-Dimmable-LED-Retrofit-Kit-RFKIT22/207056636?cm_mmc=Shopping|VF|G|0|G-VF-PLA|&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkZHTBRCBARIsAMbXLhFR2t6eK71CJgWnbxQePhk4WNYnxp6-sOa52mKVeBMVD3wZ_hBRXPkaAms8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNLy-JeS6tgCFQayTwodcsMFBQ https://www.homedepot.com/p/Meridian-22-Watt-Equivalent-Cool-White-T9-Circline-Non-Dimmable-LED-Light-Bulb-13144/302072545?cm_mmc=Shopping|VF|G|0|G-VF-PLA|&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkZHTBRCBARIsAMbXLhGYSxjklzICKDjaIahsieUlslMNIYijdOhSY7SBb2HaGax5Bv-7zLEaAhDzEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CNak2PGT6tgCFUy7Twod_v8Mvg I looked around about a year or so ago for LED replacements for the circular tube lights and didn't find much..

Okay, so today I was out messing around with my Hawk 220VS.. I had a order come in last night and this morning.. figured since I had just went through the saw and installed a new front tension cam and upper blade holder.. I'd play a little and do some experimenting.. I been thinking about the blade motion between the Hawk and the DeWalt.. and wondered if one.. I was burning through blades faster because the sawdust may not be able to clear out of the blade as good as it does on the aggressive cutting 788.. I started messing around with SPM speed while cutting on some 3/4" cherry... My 788 typically stays about 3/4 + on the speed dial.. The 788 runs 1750SPM.. My old 220VS tops out at 1500SPM.. so I normally ran it full speed.. I always felt that with the 788 the blade just eats the wood like a starved pig, LOL but when I cut on my Hawks.. it's more like just nibbling like a stuffed hamster, LOL I started messing around with the SPM while cutting just playing with the dial.. the Hawk slowed down to just over the half way mark on the dial and all of a sudden the thing acted as if it was a very hungry pig.. now I'm thinking maybe the Hawk actually might be able to cut nearly as fast as the 788.. thinking maybe the faster blade speed coupled with a less aggressive saw may be running the saw too fast for the blade to efficiently clear out the sawdust.. and also creating more heat.. thus the blade dulls much faster.. Years ago when i first started with the 788 I always felt the saw was too aggressive and the very aggressive cutting would rock the board back and forth unless you was really holding it down.. and turns was a PIA.. until one day I figured out the the faster the saw blade runs the less it wants to bounce my board back and forth.. thus.. I run this saw at the faster speeds.. just assumed all saws was that way.. slowing the Hawk blade speed down.. I just cut a clock out this afternoon probably about as fast as I would have on the 788.. with slower blade speed... and used just one blade.. well two blades to be honest but the first one broke because I was messing with adjusting the tension.. guess I had it too tight at first..

No, I bought local at Edwards Industrial.. My family does a lot of business with this company and know us from the Sawmill business..always there getting hydro hoses, bearings or something, LOL

I buy all my bearings from a local company.. they know I'm looking for quality when I walk through the door.. I know the guys there from parts chasing for my brothers sawmill over the years and also for the company I used to work at.. They always get me the Timkien if they can.. otherwise the best other brand they can get.. Place is called Edwards Industrial.. I also use another local place called Detroit Ball Bearing.. Yes, I buy the good bearings... and use a good grease.. I'm usually good to go for many years..

If I sell some puzzles online, I'll put that in my description as well.. However.. I find that there are a lot of folks asking questions that is already in the description.. so they don't always READ the description thoroughly.. Having something packaged with the puzzle itself I think would be much better.. For instance, someone buys the item as a gift for a small child not thinking about the small parts.. Having this in the package allows whoever parent / guardian to also see the warning.. Can't be too safe these days..

That would work great for you I would imagine.. I've really been considering changing from a DBA to LLC... Need to research and find out what's involved in doing it as I don't have a clue..

You want to see some awesome bearings... check out ceramic bearings.. not cheap though.. but I think most likely the best bearing you can buy..

My 226 Hawk came with a light with the starter ballast on the outside.. My first light is still going strong.. bought it from Menards back in 2007.. so I bought another when I needed one for another saw... thinking my next will be the LED style.. just hope they are worth the extra cost..

Boy that last sentence JT.. You sure hit that one.. most everything now days is just cheap junk and when it breaks you throw it out and buy another.. well.. for most people.. I seem to like to take things apart to see if I can fix and improve on them, LOL

That is a good point.. I use the doppler or whatever you call them.. and just swing it out of my way when i don't need them.. I been thinking about ordering the one from Bushton as it looks like a pretty nice one and LED to boot.. My other ones came from Menards and have the round tube light in them..

A sealed bearing doesn't make a quality bearing... and be careful how you say this.. because our Hawks don't have but 2 bearings that are sealed and those are the to visible ones in the connecting arm that connects the lower arm to the motor... the rest are open thrust bearings.. I know this because i just replace them on my 226 Ultra and also just tonight had my old 220VS apart..

JT is right, there are some real expensive high end bearings that are made of quality material and grease.. I bought some higher end bearings for my DeWalt way back in 2011 when I rebuilt the front rocker assemblies.. and packed the bearings with high end synthetic grease.. Hasn't been touched since then.. but the originals was going bad just only 2 years old..

Can get pricey when we are talking "Quality" saws.. Can't imagine buying a $2000 dollar Hegner and not liking it so then move to a $1700 Hawk.. If your thinking like this.. you must have some deep pockets.. deeper than mine anyway..

Cannot agree more with you, Stoney.. I've recently found several bearings that appear to have never even been greased.. My Hawk is a 1998 but was new in the box when I bought it.. last May.. I could never get the vibration to go away.. I kept messing around until i started really looking.. found 3 bearings in the ol girl that looked like there was never any grease..