kmmcrafts

If I sell some puzzles online, I'll put that in my description as well.. However.. I find that there are a lot of folks asking questions that is already in the description.. so they don't always READ the description thoroughly.. Having something packaged with the puzzle itself I think would be much better.. For instance, someone buys the item as a gift for a small child not thinking about the small parts.. Having this in the package allows whoever parent / guardian to also see the warning.. Can't be too safe these days..

That would work great for you I would imagine.. I've really been considering changing from a DBA to LLC... Need to research and find out what's involved in doing it as I don't have a clue..

You want to see some awesome bearings... check out ceramic bearings.. not cheap though.. but I think most likely the best bearing you can buy..

My 226 Hawk came with a light with the starter ballast on the outside.. My first light is still going strong.. bought it from Menards back in 2007.. so I bought another when I needed one for another saw... thinking my next will be the LED style.. just hope they are worth the extra cost..

Boy that last sentence JT.. You sure hit that one.. most everything now days is just cheap junk and when it breaks you throw it out and buy another.. well.. for most people.. I seem to like to take things apart to see if I can fix and improve on them, LOL

That is a good point.. I use the doppler or whatever you call them.. and just swing it out of my way when i don't need them.. I been thinking about ordering the one from Bushton as it looks like a pretty nice one and LED to boot.. My other ones came from Menards and have the round tube light in them..

A sealed bearing doesn't make a quality bearing... and be careful how you say this.. because our Hawks don't have but 2 bearings that are sealed and those are the to visible ones in the connecting arm that connects the lower arm to the motor... the rest are open thrust bearings.. I know this because i just replace them on my 226 Ultra and also just tonight had my old 220VS apart..

JT is right, there are some real expensive high end bearings that are made of quality material and grease.. I bought some higher end bearings for my DeWalt way back in 2011 when I rebuilt the front rocker assemblies.. and packed the bearings with high end synthetic grease.. Hasn't been touched since then.. but the originals was going bad just only 2 years old..

Can get pricey when we are talking "Quality" saws.. Can't imagine buying a $2000 dollar Hegner and not liking it so then move to a $1700 Hawk.. If your thinking like this.. you must have some deep pockets.. deeper than mine anyway..

Cannot agree more with you, Stoney.. I've recently found several bearings that appear to have never even been greased.. My Hawk is a 1998 but was new in the box when I bought it.. last May.. I could never get the vibration to go away.. I kept messing around until i started really looking.. found 3 bearings in the ol girl that looked like there was never any grease..

So another warm night out there 33F so I went out and replaced my upgraded tension cam and the new style upper blade holder.. New bearings wasn't needed.. in fact maybe bearings was made better back in the 90's as these look like new.. good thing too.. because after taking the saw apart I find that it has a whole different style of bearing than the newer 226 Ultra has... connecting rod bearings the same.. but again wasn't needed.. She's running real nice and smooth through all the gears.. no vibration to really speak about through the whole range of speeds.. I sort of like the thrust bearing style of this older saw better than I do the newer one.. Guess now my next project will be to set up and tune the new Excalibur and when these are all done and running good.. I'll take the 788 apart for new bearings inside the case at the back of the saw.. getting a little noisy back there and still running the originals from 2008 back there..

I need another mag light and have been putting it off as to researching etc.. since it's not something I desperately need.. since I can take one off one saw to move to another.. as i have 3 of them.. but have 4 saws.. and like to just sit at a saw and go to work.. without having to move stuff around.. Anyway, I have never thought about a head mounted deal like that.. This would be much easier to move from one saw to the next... and I would always know where to mount it for the least amount of vibration.

I don't think I'd change much from what you listed there.. But.. I would like a variable adjustable blade angle ( which the new Hawks have ) so I could change the aggressiveness of the cut just where I need it.. My Ultra is not enough in the one slot and the other is just a tad too much for some of my cutting.. I've been known to stop in the middle of some cuts and release the tension to move the blade position from one to another ... having a motorized adjustable angle to adjust this on the fly with a separate foot peddle might be cool, LOL One in between would be good.. but variable would be great.. Now your going to call me crazy for that one. Hahaha I like the old Delta clamps.. Wouldn't mind seeing something set up much like the Jet's upper clamp / tension with one lever.. ( However I have not used this type so may not like it ) The concept of it for a lot of fret type cutting seems like it would be awesome.. While I've never really made one.. there have been times I wish I had a zero clearance table insert.. Why did they stop making table inserts? and none of the high end brands never had a insert to begin with ( that I'm aware of ) Upper arm must be spring loaded ( like the Hawks ) where when the blade is unhooked the arm goes up by itself.. Rather than a dust blower.. they need some sort of dust collection... But.. for me.. in a nutshell.. a Hawk BM series with Delta style clamps.. Personally I sort of like the fixed clamp rather than the removable.. and the only real advantage I see with removable clamps is having some other sized blades ready for cutting.. If I needed a spiral for doing some veining in a project.. But I find with the removable blade clamps is.. I forget what blade is in what clamp.. and most times end up just changing to a new one anyway. I often wonder how a variable speed foot peddle would be.. there are some instances where I'm on a long straight away and would like to speed up the saw some.. or the opposite.. while now that I am more experienced that is not a issue much anymore.. but do wonder if it'd come in handy for certain projects.. and could be helpful for a newbie..

I started a new topic with the story on the parts I replaced etc. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/27532-hawk-226-ultra-is-back-up-and-running/

That's a really cool idea, Where did you get a timer and how did you hook the timer up.. Seems like I recall Steve Good doing a thing on this.. maybe I'll search for that.. I had forgot about that until you mentioned it.

Just wanted to say that the group at Hawk are not into the electrical stuff for these saws.. and they just ( from what I've been told ) replace the whole power unit as a whole so this is why it is $140 to replace the rheostat.. and like I said.. the part is only around $5 .. I just replaced mine on my Ultra saw.. not because it was acting up.. but because I was dumb and broke it while working on replacing a bearing on the end of the motor..

Finally got a chance to order my parts I needed from Bushton on Monday.. parts came in the mail today.. I just came back in a short time ago after putting all new bearings etc. in Is it safe to say I wore out a brand new Hawk in 5 months.. bought the saw in May and replacing the bearings in it already.. Pretty sure it would have lasted much longer had the bearings actually had grease in them.. Not sure to blame that one on Hawk.. or China.. Bearings say Made in China.. Hawk says Made in the USA.. I picked up the bearings from a local bearing supply house.. The parts needed to complete my bearing job was the darn special spacer (washer) that goes in between the lower arm and the connecting rod.. I dropped the darn thing while trying to put it together last month.. I seen the general direction it took off to and i moved all the lumber around... never could find it.. now that is back together it'll show up, LOL Needles to say.. she's got all brand new bearings ( with grease too ).. and is running smoother than it ever has.. It's virtually smooth all through the gears until the very highest one.. she's got some vibration at top speed.. but used to have a pretty bad area right around the middle speed and would walk across the floor on just before high speed and up from there.. Hawk mailed me a paper with alignment instructions which one I had not thought of myself or tried.. which could have been part of the issue.. however no grease in the bearings I'm sure played a part too.. Now I need to put my new updated upper clamp / tension mechanism on my old Hawk 220.. the tension lever wouldn't stay down into the tension position.. guessing that's why that saw kept breaking blades.... This saw is one oldie as it doesn't have the small set screw to adjust to give it more tension.. so the whole new updated to the BM series style upper clamping system had to be used.. But since I am taking the arm off etc.. I also picked up new bearings etc for this one.. so if anything is bad or worn.. should be like new when I get this one done too..

That looks like it'll do the trick quite well.. you should have replaced that a few months ago and saved yourself a lot of testing and headaches, LOL Kind of off topic maybe? I have a lot of pine trees and the darn needles get into my landscaped areas.. I rigged up my shop vac with a piece of screen to keep my vac from sucking up the needles and the mulch.. the needles are a PIA to pick out by hand.. the shop vac with the screen picks them right up and then I brush the screen in my bucket to dump.. also the mulch is once in a while sucked up to the screen if I get a little too close to it.. and that screen also saves it from going into the vac..

Could be a good deal to the right person.. I'm betting they could just replace the controller pod as I did on my Hawk.. if they know how to solder the part is a whopping $5 shipped, LOL.. the problem may lay deeper than that part.. but I'd run some test to see for sure before sending out the assembly for a $140 repair Something I wish everyone selling a Hawk would do... Post a close up of the back wedges, and a good shot at the lower blade clamp.. since the wedges can tell a story about the miles on the saw.. and the blade clamps can tell you really what type of saw it is.. barrel clamps = old saw.. ultra = two lower blade slots etc etc.. It's nice that they show the serial number.. would be nice if Hawk could have a page on their web site with serial number year data.. They are busy people at Hawk.. and I hate calling them all the time just to get a small amount of info on a saw.. should some of that be online.. one could look the info up and decide if the saw is really worth the money..

Good find... I need to finish setting up the one I bought a few months ago.. Imagine I will be messing with it more since the weather is finally bearable..

This will be delayed for quite a while.. better eat the popcorn before it goes stale.. I had a good reply topic but guess what.. The mailman brought me my parts I ordered on Monday for my Hawk.. and it's a nice warm day 32F so.. I'm headed to the shop to get my 226VS back together.. and the new upgrade for my old 220VS part came too.. so I'll get that one upgraded.. tonight too.. I hope..

Giving everyone some time to fill up your popcorn bowls and pull up a comfy chair..

Looks like it was a good turn out and a good time.. Surprised you didn't video the ribbon cutting for all to watch :( Hope your newest path turns out very well for you..

Some people are sounding offended because I said the Hawk can't cut as fast as my DeWalt.. I've never said I don't like my Hawk.. I've never said it's a piece of junk saw.. I've never stated the DeWalt is a better saw.... I don't believe I've implied anything degrading to either saw.. I like both saws VERY much for different reasons.. I've simply stated a Hawk is slower cutting saw and many of the others have agreed that they are slower less aggressive cutting.. I don't understand why it all gets taken out of context.. I've simply stated two things about the Hawk I've observed and that is.. It's slower cutting... and blades don't last as long.. While maybe I should have stated it's slower cutting for ME.. blades don't last as long for ME... which could be because I end up pushing harder on the wood as it's not chopping away as fast as I LIKE to cut.. though I do not believe that to be true simply because over the coarse of my time on message boards over the last 12 years I've observed that many others state the same exact thing.. Precision cutting? YES.. very much so compared to the other saws I've used over the years..

Had not thought of doing that.. Maybe once I get my parts in from Bushton and get my saw back together I'll give it a try..