kmmcrafts

Just taking a wild stab at what's going on without actually seeing the saw right in front of me.. and seeing what others have said you have done already.. I kind of question the condition of the threads in the adjuster block at the back of the saw.. I personally would start by making sure the upper arm is parallel to the saw table and adjust that knob at the back of the saw until it is. My saw had a issue with that back knob just freely spinning on it's own and would get all out of adjustment. As for mechanical problems.. that rod and threaded block seem to be the only thing I haven't really seen mention of.. When you lower your upper arm down if it come down and kind of slams hard.. that is beating up on the threads of that rod and the threaded block. The only other part I could comment on is if the blade chucks have been tighten too tight, this can cause the blade chucks to spread open and not give a true clamp of the blade.. This would require replacement of the whole assembly.. If that was the case I recommend the Pegas chucks from Denny. Since you've already replaced the set/thumb screws I feel like the two things I mentioned are what is left to check.

I guess to diagnose a problem it'd help a great deal to know what has been done already.. I may be making suggestions that has already been done. There is a lot of mechanical things that can lead to tension issues.. Even a lot of the "pros" can overlook something.. so make a list of what you've tried.. and maybe someone here can suggest something.. no point in us guessing at things that have already been addressed. Also when is the tension issue arise? Immediately or over the course of doing a cut? Blade breaking or no?

Thanks Travis, That makes me want to get photoshop, LOL

I figured out that I can open up a correct sized pix image of a white background in inkscape and then load the image into inkscape and combine them and size / center image within that background does what I need.. Only took me about 5 hours to figure that out, LOL Goes pretty fast too since I only need to edit the first image of each listing..

I couldn't have said it better... I see many post about upgrading from an entry level saw to a DeWalt and they all say WOW! what a difference in the scrolling experience.. Take that next upgrade to a Hawk or Hegner and imagine the difference yet again.. plus a quality saw that's likely going to outlast any hobbyist.. and in many cases outlast even those running them in the production type setting.. Hawk and Hegner could be as popular in the scrolling sector if they were sold in box stores around the world like the others are.. Last I knew a 20" Hawk was only about $200 more than a Pegas.. and you're getting a lot more quality build machine.. That's not saying that a Pegas is an inferior saw.. but it does have it's limitations in a production type setting..

At one time I used to know a way to do this but for the live of me I can't figure out what I did back in the day. Etsy changed the photo formatt requirements.. Many of my listings are "made to order" so it's not a matter of just going and retaking a photo for me. Does anyone know how to edit a photo to sort of zoom out so the photo isn't cut off in the square format.. See my screenshot to see what I mean.. Many of my photos on the main page are cut off like this.. I need to edit a lot of them.. some I can just retake.. some are made to order or shrinkwrap sealed and rather not open and have to rewrap them. Prefer inkscape instructions unless there is something easier.. I do have gimp too if that works.. or some other free program. Just saying I already have inkscape and gimp but I know more with inkscapes buttons etc, LOL See how the Semi truck front end is cut off.. and the Aussie dogs face is cut off.. This is what I need to try to fix.. hopefully without retaking photos.. They used to have a more rectangle photo and back then I had to edit some to zoom in.. now I need to reverse that. LOL

The G4 and newer ( 2005+) Hawks you do not need to remove the blade holders and they also top or bottom feed. Lots of changes with both Hawk and Hegner over the years of their existence even though the saws look so similar to the older ones. Those newer Hawks also have a adjustable blade aggression.. But I do agree, those DeWalts are a great saw for the money, I ran one for 6 years before getting that first Hawk and I'd have kept it if the deal on the Excalibur hadn't showed up. I like the DeWalt stand and nice large table better than the Ex. Also like the stand on the Hegner better than the EX or Hawk, LOL..

Yeah I had to do that several times on my old Dewalt when i had it.. was getting to a point where it was starting to get kind of short when i sold the saw. LOL I found that the thing kept breaking because it was so long to begin with and I was always fussing with it to adjust it. It would get stiff to move too and finally break. I found if i put some dry lube on the nub where it attaches it would move more freely and I wouldn't keep breaking it. They come apart kind of hard.. and go back on even harder, LOL.. I found heating it in some hot water or a heat gun and a little dab of soap helps it go back on easier..

It's basically a shed, really rough shape.. though not as rough as I thought. I use to think that one windy day or a good heavy wet snow is going to make it fall down.. really it's a pole barn that more than half the poles rotted off at the ground level. Back in the mid 90's I took a few of the old poles out and put in some small treated 4x4 post just to help get buy until I could afford a new shop. The roof leaks in several areas inside so it's really nothing special about it and why I don't want to spend money to run power to it again. Had to disconnect power when the new shop went up as the line ran right through the area of where the new shop is. Anyway, last summer a big Maple tree that stood right by it fell and landed right onto the roof. My nephew who is a tree guy came and looked it all over who was brave enough to go inside with the tree still on it.. even braver he went up top and cut the tree up and got it off the building ground the stump and within a half day you wouldn't even know there was a tree there. Totally surprised me that the tree did very little damage.. mainly just a couple small dents in the metal roof, LOL. It's a good storage spot for my old tractors and lawn equipment etc.. Thinking someday I might take it down and build a new one on that existing slab.

Right, they always running a sale of some sort and most times I can get stuff 25% off list so that puts it at $30.. I don't plan to go anywhere this weekend.. my area is saying 14" of snow and wind so blizzard like conditions.. Temps going to drop off to around a high of 12F.. Yay winter finally arrived.. We've been spoiled this year as the temps have been around the 40's or better during the day and mid 30's at night.. We've had a couple snows but nothing to really amount to anything that I'd have to go plow the drive.. mostly melted off in a day or two.. but now looking like our high temp won't be above 32 until maybe middle of Feb.

This has been a popular one over the years around Valentines day. Guy order 6 of these the other day... dude needs to slow down on the girlfriends.. Steve Good design from several years ago..

I would have had the Hercules brand if they would have had the leaf blower and battery in stock on the day I had a special clean-up job to do and needed the blower that day. That said.. I'm actually glad they didn't because once you start a collection of battery tools it's much easier to stay with tools with those batteries. Some of the Hercules brand tools cost almost as much as a DeWalt or others.. not far from it, and they don't have as large of a selection of stuff to choose from in the Hercules brand as they do in the Bauer. There is a lot of stuff in the Bauer brand I could see myself using since I have another 24 x 24 workshop that has no power run to it.. It's quite a ways to run power to it and it did used to have power before the new shop went up. But it was old and not up to code since it was built back in the late 50's.. Since it's mostly used to store tractor collection now I see no reason to spend big money to re-wire the entire thing for that occasional use.

Those older ones with the round barrel style clamps are really fussy with those clamps and tension.. A lot of people hated those.. probably why so many floating around on the marketplace sites.. I hated mine to for the longest time as that was what my first saw was.. It wasn't bad once I learned how to properly insert and tension the blade.. The Ultras aren't as bad but still not nothing like the G-4 and newer saws.. The G-4 and newer saws you don't have to remove the blade clamp from the saw if you don't want to and they made steel blade holders so when a blade breaks you don't have to go find the holder, LOL.. Most of the used ones on the market are those round barrel clamp ones with a few Ultras mixed in.. rarely see a G-4 or newer saw on there for sale..

I understand that, I too won't buy a lot of things from them.. mostly things I know will get used a lot and hard use.. I do buy things that are sort of low use.. Just as in this instance, I just want to "try" to do some intarsia.. I can't see spending a few hundred for a flex shaft sander if I decide it's not for me.. Heck a dremel tool and a flex attachment cost more than this thing.. I already have the batteries.. and to be quite honest I haven't had too bad of luck with a lot of the power tools over the more recent years.. that said 15 years ago I bought a Sawzall that wouldn't even cut a piece of 2" PVC pipe before it broke.. three more saws before I got a small plumbing job repaired, LOL.. They've come a long way with those power tools since back in those days.. but as i said.. If it's going to get some hard use.. I'll buy name brand stuff..

You bring up something that I've been thinking about for quite some time.. Many of that brand of tools "look" a lot like some of the other brands.. one of the cordless drills and one of the flashlights looks identical to my DeWalt... Even the batteries are very close but they don't swap as I tried that, LOL

You guys bring up some good points.. I do like to do as much sanding etc as i can outside is what my thought was.. saves having to clean up the shop.. and I've been wanting to try intarsia and read a lot of sanding and shaping is involved.. I wouldn't need batteries and chargers as I already have them for my leaf blower.. I'll have to look it over good next time I get to their store..

Yes you are correct.. I started my business with a hand-me-down completely worn out Delta 40-560 type 2 from 1986.. my father bought it new and wore it out twice before giving it to me.. only reason is he wanted a variable speed plus parts was no longer available locally.. this was before internet and finding rare stuff on eBay and the likes.. I rebuilt it sourcing parts online.. While that saw was down I used a Ryobi scroll saw borrowed from my brother that he never used.. I've owned and used and rebuilt many entry level saws while also running the business too.. I worked my way up through many brands until I got up to a deWalt.. great saw for the money BTW as is the Excalibur and many of the others.. I've been down the road of entry level too mid range saws and now have both Hawks and Hegners.. Years ago to save money while trying to build business I would put blades in upside down when the right side up got dull since it only uses half the blade at a time.. and still made quality sellable stuff.. so put that in your pipe and smoke it, LOL That's no lie.. Blades weren't cheap at the hardware store.. before learning that I can get them cheaper and better blades online.. Those Vermont brand blades really sucked.. if you can scroll with those and make a decent project you'll do great once you get some good blades.. I spent the first two years scrolling with that two speed saw and those vermont brand blades.. dull on one end flip it over and use the other end, LOL The stuff that took me 5 hours to cut back then... I can do now in about 30 - 45 minutes.. so while you can use entry level saws and inferior blades and take your time being careful etc.. you can achieve a good piece out of a crappy saw.. maybe not so quickly.. Kinda the difference of pushing a Ford to town or driving a Jaguar.. both will get you there but one is going to be way faster and more comfortable. In my mind a talented scroller will be able to cut with either flat blades or spirals.. blade right side up or upside down.. who cares as long as it cuts.. I haven't been able to achieve cutting on the side with no teeth yet but I'm going to figure that one out someday, most I get is a bunch of smoke

I don't think so.. most go back to what they know.. not a ton of advertising going on with Hawk or Hegner and also many look at the warranty / service instead of quality.. price point also comes back into play. I love my Hawk, Hegner does run a little smoother but then the difference in size / weight of the arms from a 26" Hawk to a 18" Hegner.. I would expect the smaller saw to be a bit smoother. I don't like the smaller table of the Hegner..

I am signed up to get emails from HF and this was in today's email about new tools in the Bauer line-up, I have a few of the Bauer cordless tools ( leaf blower, 4" angle grinder and a random orbit sander.. my son has the pole saw ) and we've had good results so far.. I might give this thing a go as I sold my rigid belt / spindle sander and I've been thinking about trying some intarsia.. I have a gift card to spend some money there too, LOL Anyway I thought some of you all might be interested in this new item. https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-cordless-variable-speed-rotary-tool-with-flexible-shaft-tool-only-58672.html?utm_source=responsys&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2024_01_10_wk0224_Bauer_TARGETED&uid=927cd95d91488623d38497685b411479a3ced9fafa9783dfff6ee4193eceb7c1&infy=6636035305&bxid=6636035305&mi_u=6636035305&mi_ecmp=2024_01_10_wk0224_Bauer_TARGETED&plcc=

I'm not convinced that people look at the design of how the saw is made as much as they look at the comfort and user friendliness of the saw.. Price pays a huge factor too.. I see many saying they "wish" they could afford a Hegner or Hawk but they settled for a EX or Pegas.. So that being said.. I'm doubtful people are looking at the overall design.. Word of mouth of what others use and advertising plays a huge roll as well... You don't see Hawk and Hegner ads plastered all over our computer screens like you do the others.. You don't see them on Amazon etc either.. Most the parallel link arm saws do have a advantage over the long arm saws.. One being the saw body tilts rather than the table and the tilting mechanism is a better design too.. The other thing is the ability to adjust the aggression of the cut... They do not have a harmonic balance issue at certain speeds either. That said, long arm saws have spring loaded upper arms so when you break a blade or loosen the blade clamp the arm automatically goes up.. Blade chucks come out of the saw so you can preload blades in the extra chucks.. Both have good and not so great points in my opinion and there would be no way to make that one perfect saw.. I will always keep one of each style in my shop since I have that ability to do so.. IF I could only have one and knowing what I do about both I'd stay with a Hawk OR Hegner.. much more precision and just a more relaxing experience to use.. That is just an opinion of coarse.. for the style of cutting I do.. I might say the opposite if I was one to do a lot of angle cutting..

Yeah, I'm no engineer either but most all the saws with the motor in the rear that I know of also have a very complex contraption consisting of flimsy metal arms / rods with several pivot points.. Do they run smoother throughout the whole range on the speed dial.. Yes.. they have little short arms at the front of the saw that all that complex linkage connects too. Most these type saws have anywhere from 14 - 20 small bearings.. A lot of pivot points.. Saws like the Hawk and Hegner have anywhere from 4 - 6 bearings.. but they also have a lot of mass moving, especially with those large 26" saws.. that moving mass is going to have some harmonic spots where vibration is inevitable at certain speeds.. But very little to go wrong.. no flimsy rods and way less pivot points.

Page 24 part diagram number 42.. in the part list it just says set screw.. I looked it up last night when I replied as that is how I knew what it was.. JT explained it better than I did but that is what I was trying to say. https://generaltoolsusa.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/EX-16_21_30_ENG_R2.pdf

It's a set screw to adjust the upper chuck position.. IF you look at it from the side and watch while moving your tension lever back and forth you'll see that the lever comes down and stops against that set screw.. Turning that set screw in will lower the blade chuck so that the thumb screw clamps the blade at a lower position.. I've never really used those type of clamps on my EX as I bought the pegas chucks.. but I believe you can adjust it as a blade stop so the blade goes into the saw at the same position every time by adjusting that screw and then inserting the blade all the way up against the top.. then do that every time and you blade is in the same position every time all the time.. unless of course that screw gets out of adjustment.. Edit to add Actually I think I said that backwards.. If tuning that screw inwards actually might raise the position where the blade clamps onto the blade.. I'm just going off the picture you provided so I could be somewhat wrong on this but I'm quite certain that is what it's for..

150% Yes.. I was just thinking about writing a topic in the business forum about social media promoting and getting engagement from your followers and how that boost your placement on the social platforms as well as if someone clicks a link to your selling site from that social post then that boost placement in for your selling site.. so yes 150% Etsy even has a program to praise or punish sellers if they respond within 24 hours of a message from a customer.. just for this reason.. as that boost their placement as a whole with google.

I'm going to start a topic in the business section since I didn't intend to hijack this thread.