kmmcrafts

Have not done it on a large format scanner but I did fold up the paper and just scan all the patterns in to a file on my computer.. Though I rarely use any of those patterns anymore. Anytime I do use a pattern from a book I always save it on the computer in case I need it again.

That's amazing to me that they was able to fix this.. You sure they didn't just replace with another saw? I say this because I've seen literally hundreds of post over the years about the service centers not being able to figure out the problem.. and many times they end up just replacing the saw.

Are you talking about this part? https://seyco.com/product/ex21-a58a-complete-rear-tensioner-assembly/

Been there done that with comparing to the DeWalt sleeves.. Not the same.. I had all the parts on hand to rebuild my DeWalt for the 3rd time.. I kept them when I sold the DeWalt thinking they'd be the same.. they are not.. at least not any of the ones inside the saw.. If I remember correctly "some" of the ones were the same in the front rocker arms.. IF I ever take my saw apart again I might look into the bearings & sleeves for the Jet saw.. they seems to sell individual parts for those on ereplacement parts website.. those saws are made in the same place as the King and Pegas etc.. so with some luck they may use the same bearings and sleeves. So far for all the other models of similar saws you have to just buy the whole link arm assembly..

She sent me a message explaining all things that has been tried.. Claims to have replaced the upper blade chuck per suggestion from Seyco... and no change.. through all the things she has done there is still the lower blade chuck that hasn't been changed.. if I'm understanding the message correctly. That all said she also mentioned that her Excalibur also started doing this around the same time.. unless I misunderstood that.. Now I suppose the chucks could have spread apart on both saws like this at the same time.. but it also is making me wonder what blades she's using.. I've seen bad batches of blades slip through QT and end up in the consumers hands.. Hard to believe they'd stretch within 2 seconds of turning the saw on and having a very loose flimsy blade without even getting a chance to cut..

Thanks for posting that Ray.. It does give some better views to what to do and expect when taking these apart. When I did my saw a few years ago I wanted to do video of it but no camera man or stand so I just did some photos and a small write up.

This is the parts I'm talking about in case someone doesn't quite understand. https://seyco.com/product/ex21-a58a-complete-rear-tensioner-assembly/ If you take it apart and put blue loc-tite on the threads it'll last a good while.. IF you let it be it'll likely wear out faster and would then "have to" be replaced. Either case it's kind of tricky to get apart.. there is a lock-nut on the bottom side of that block that is quite hard to access and hold while trying to unthread it to get it out of the saw... Maybe I should have taken more time to take more of the saw apart.. I ended up just removing the plastic above the upper arm off and using some long needle nose pliers to hold the lock-nut.. harder to do yet was reaching back in there to hold the nut and get it to thread back on, LOL.. IF you can do the rubber-band thing.. that might be the best option.. or plan to take the whole back part of the saw apart which might have been easier for me to do..

I took it all apart and put blue loc-tite thread lock on the threads and put it back together.. haven't had an issue since and that's been some years ago.. That said, many topics on this issue and most have found a way to wrap a rubberband around it in some way to keep it from turning. Not sure if your saw has a mark on the knob or not, some saws do and some don't, but you could mark it with some tape and mark on the saw with some tape and just keep an eye on it and when it moves just move it back. Over time though this gets worst and will eventually need addressed. Seyco suggest buying a new rod and that threaded block that it screws into.. but again, I used blue loc-tite as I had it on hand and no issues for a long time. It was really bad on mine too.. like every single cut I'd have to re-adjust that knob.

Another recent cut from Steve Good's collection.. After a few people seen it now i get to make a couple more of them...

I have had that dust collector for around 8 years now and It has been a good one.. Many good reviews of it too... I don't have a whole shop full of HF tools but I've got a fair amount and I've not had any issues with any of them.. Years ago yes.. some of the stuff was junk.. but in more recent times I've had really good luck with a lot of stuff from them.

Just taking a wild stab at what's going on without actually seeing the saw right in front of me.. and seeing what others have said you have done already.. I kind of question the condition of the threads in the adjuster block at the back of the saw.. I personally would start by making sure the upper arm is parallel to the saw table and adjust that knob at the back of the saw until it is. My saw had a issue with that back knob just freely spinning on it's own and would get all out of adjustment. As for mechanical problems.. that rod and threaded block seem to be the only thing I haven't really seen mention of.. When you lower your upper arm down if it come down and kind of slams hard.. that is beating up on the threads of that rod and the threaded block. The only other part I could comment on is if the blade chucks have been tighten too tight, this can cause the blade chucks to spread open and not give a true clamp of the blade.. This would require replacement of the whole assembly.. If that was the case I recommend the Pegas chucks from Denny. Since you've already replaced the set/thumb screws I feel like the two things I mentioned are what is left to check.

I guess to diagnose a problem it'd help a great deal to know what has been done already.. I may be making suggestions that has already been done. There is a lot of mechanical things that can lead to tension issues.. Even a lot of the "pros" can overlook something.. so make a list of what you've tried.. and maybe someone here can suggest something.. no point in us guessing at things that have already been addressed. Also when is the tension issue arise? Immediately or over the course of doing a cut? Blade breaking or no?

Thanks Travis, That makes me want to get photoshop, LOL

I figured out that I can open up a correct sized pix image of a white background in inkscape and then load the image into inkscape and combine them and size / center image within that background does what I need.. Only took me about 5 hours to figure that out, LOL Goes pretty fast too since I only need to edit the first image of each listing..

I couldn't have said it better... I see many post about upgrading from an entry level saw to a DeWalt and they all say WOW! what a difference in the scrolling experience.. Take that next upgrade to a Hawk or Hegner and imagine the difference yet again.. plus a quality saw that's likely going to outlast any hobbyist.. and in many cases outlast even those running them in the production type setting.. Hawk and Hegner could be as popular in the scrolling sector if they were sold in box stores around the world like the others are.. Last I knew a 20" Hawk was only about $200 more than a Pegas.. and you're getting a lot more quality build machine.. That's not saying that a Pegas is an inferior saw.. but it does have it's limitations in a production type setting..

At one time I used to know a way to do this but for the live of me I can't figure out what I did back in the day. Etsy changed the photo formatt requirements.. Many of my listings are "made to order" so it's not a matter of just going and retaking a photo for me. Does anyone know how to edit a photo to sort of zoom out so the photo isn't cut off in the square format.. See my screenshot to see what I mean.. Many of my photos on the main page are cut off like this.. I need to edit a lot of them.. some I can just retake.. some are made to order or shrinkwrap sealed and rather not open and have to rewrap them. Prefer inkscape instructions unless there is something easier.. I do have gimp too if that works.. or some other free program. Just saying I already have inkscape and gimp but I know more with inkscapes buttons etc, LOL See how the Semi truck front end is cut off.. and the Aussie dogs face is cut off.. This is what I need to try to fix.. hopefully without retaking photos.. They used to have a more rectangle photo and back then I had to edit some to zoom in.. now I need to reverse that. LOL

The G4 and newer ( 2005+) Hawks you do not need to remove the blade holders and they also top or bottom feed. Lots of changes with both Hawk and Hegner over the years of their existence even though the saws look so similar to the older ones. Those newer Hawks also have a adjustable blade aggression.. But I do agree, those DeWalts are a great saw for the money, I ran one for 6 years before getting that first Hawk and I'd have kept it if the deal on the Excalibur hadn't showed up. I like the DeWalt stand and nice large table better than the Ex. Also like the stand on the Hegner better than the EX or Hawk, LOL..

Yeah I had to do that several times on my old Dewalt when i had it.. was getting to a point where it was starting to get kind of short when i sold the saw. LOL I found that the thing kept breaking because it was so long to begin with and I was always fussing with it to adjust it. It would get stiff to move too and finally break. I found if i put some dry lube on the nub where it attaches it would move more freely and I wouldn't keep breaking it. They come apart kind of hard.. and go back on even harder, LOL.. I found heating it in some hot water or a heat gun and a little dab of soap helps it go back on easier..

It's basically a shed, really rough shape.. though not as rough as I thought. I use to think that one windy day or a good heavy wet snow is going to make it fall down.. really it's a pole barn that more than half the poles rotted off at the ground level. Back in the mid 90's I took a few of the old poles out and put in some small treated 4x4 post just to help get buy until I could afford a new shop. The roof leaks in several areas inside so it's really nothing special about it and why I don't want to spend money to run power to it again. Had to disconnect power when the new shop went up as the line ran right through the area of where the new shop is. Anyway, last summer a big Maple tree that stood right by it fell and landed right onto the roof. My nephew who is a tree guy came and looked it all over who was brave enough to go inside with the tree still on it.. even braver he went up top and cut the tree up and got it off the building ground the stump and within a half day you wouldn't even know there was a tree there. Totally surprised me that the tree did very little damage.. mainly just a couple small dents in the metal roof, LOL. It's a good storage spot for my old tractors and lawn equipment etc.. Thinking someday I might take it down and build a new one on that existing slab.

Right, they always running a sale of some sort and most times I can get stuff 25% off list so that puts it at $30.. I don't plan to go anywhere this weekend.. my area is saying 14" of snow and wind so blizzard like conditions.. Temps going to drop off to around a high of 12F.. Yay winter finally arrived.. We've been spoiled this year as the temps have been around the 40's or better during the day and mid 30's at night.. We've had a couple snows but nothing to really amount to anything that I'd have to go plow the drive.. mostly melted off in a day or two.. but now looking like our high temp won't be above 32 until maybe middle of Feb.

This has been a popular one over the years around Valentines day. Guy order 6 of these the other day... dude needs to slow down on the girlfriends.. Steve Good design from several years ago..

I would have had the Hercules brand if they would have had the leaf blower and battery in stock on the day I had a special clean-up job to do and needed the blower that day. That said.. I'm actually glad they didn't because once you start a collection of battery tools it's much easier to stay with tools with those batteries. Some of the Hercules brand tools cost almost as much as a DeWalt or others.. not far from it, and they don't have as large of a selection of stuff to choose from in the Hercules brand as they do in the Bauer. There is a lot of stuff in the Bauer brand I could see myself using since I have another 24 x 24 workshop that has no power run to it.. It's quite a ways to run power to it and it did used to have power before the new shop went up. But it was old and not up to code since it was built back in the late 50's.. Since it's mostly used to store tractor collection now I see no reason to spend big money to re-wire the entire thing for that occasional use.

Those older ones with the round barrel style clamps are really fussy with those clamps and tension.. A lot of people hated those.. probably why so many floating around on the marketplace sites.. I hated mine to for the longest time as that was what my first saw was.. It wasn't bad once I learned how to properly insert and tension the blade.. The Ultras aren't as bad but still not nothing like the G-4 and newer saws.. The G-4 and newer saws you don't have to remove the blade clamp from the saw if you don't want to and they made steel blade holders so when a blade breaks you don't have to go find the holder, LOL.. Most of the used ones on the market are those round barrel clamp ones with a few Ultras mixed in.. rarely see a G-4 or newer saw on there for sale..

I understand that, I too won't buy a lot of things from them.. mostly things I know will get used a lot and hard use.. I do buy things that are sort of low use.. Just as in this instance, I just want to "try" to do some intarsia.. I can't see spending a few hundred for a flex shaft sander if I decide it's not for me.. Heck a dremel tool and a flex attachment cost more than this thing.. I already have the batteries.. and to be quite honest I haven't had too bad of luck with a lot of the power tools over the more recent years.. that said 15 years ago I bought a Sawzall that wouldn't even cut a piece of 2" PVC pipe before it broke.. three more saws before I got a small plumbing job repaired, LOL.. They've come a long way with those power tools since back in those days.. but as i said.. If it's going to get some hard use.. I'll buy name brand stuff..

You bring up something that I've been thinking about for quite some time.. Many of that brand of tools "look" a lot like some of the other brands.. one of the cordless drills and one of the flashlights looks identical to my DeWalt... Even the batteries are very close but they don't swap as I tried that, LOL