kmmcrafts

Yeah, I have 6 brothers and 2 step brothers, LOL.. a step brother runs a cabinet shop and builds displays for stores / malls etc.. I'm the baby ( youngest ) of them all, what's that saying.. They finally stopped when they got the perfect one...

So as cheap as these are to buy in quantity.. There is a couple things I don't like about the replacement of these.. One being you have to take the back part of the saw all apart to access the wire plug in.. While that's not a huge job to do.. I'm tempted to build a splice kit so it would be plug and play next time.. Heat shrink connectors under that cover would prevent you from ever having to take that back part of it all apart.. I wonder how well a kit would sell if I was to solder the wire leads on and connectors so one could cut their wires and crimp on some connectors so they don't have to take the whole saw apart.. Seyco gets $55 + shipping.. I don't see any reason I couldn't make them like this as a kit to offer.. and at about $25..

I don't know if these are actual photos of the items you linked to but these "look" like they have a pretty long stem.. also mine has a knurled stem.. though i suppose that doesn't matters because I also have a set screw for the knob... My brother owns a guitar parts store so I'm going to check with him to see if he has any of them.. One brother sells guitar and speaker parts business and another has a custom guitar cab manufacturing business..

Maybe a crockpot? Only thing I know of in my cupboard that would have anything to do with electricity,

If I'm not mistaken I think this is the right one? https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc./PDB181-K420K-502B/2564756?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax Shopping_Product_Low ROAS Categories&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20243063506_adg-_ad-__dev-c_ext-_prd-2564756_sig-CjwKCAiA98WrBhAYEiwA2WvhOjrh0MN06QG3ToLZvM9d4TpM54uzvbeIf9_bv8MMQEP4wVJdSAmsARoCks4QAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA98WrBhAYEiwA2WvhOjrh0MN06QG3ToLZvM9d4TpM54uzvbeIf9_bv8MMQEP4wVJdSAmsARoCks4QAvD_BwE Now that I think about it I think this is exact same one I put in the other saw a few years ago..

Well I decided to take the couple screws out to access the switch. Here is some pictures of what I have. The one on my Hawk had all the info stamped on the switch. This one just has some number and letters on it so I might have to do some digging to find what I need. I question if the switch is even bad. Not sure if you can see in the photos but there is only two strands of wire even soldered to the one terminal. The others were very close to touching the other terminal.

It'd be really nice to be able to replace just the individual parts needed at a much lower cost rather than throwing out several good bearings because one $10 bearing went bad.. That is one of my bigger complaints about the link arm saws that I personally have.. The bearings can be sourced but the inner sleeve I have not been able to find a reasonable priced source.. Rolf run into the same thing with his rebuild.. Instead of a $120 assembly we could just buy the couple of bearings that are the ones prone to be worn and are the main issue.. The nice thing about some of the other saws... you just go to the local hardware and pick up what would be a very common bearing or bushing for around $10.. No waiting for shipping to bring your parts..

I'm kinda thinking a weekend hobbyist saw would last longer than 3-4 years.. Really a lot of factors come into play.. such as the type of projects.. I mostly cut fretwork type projects ( Christmas Ornaments, Clocks etc. ).. so you set at a saw for 40 hours but the saw only has 5-10 hours run time due to stopping to cut the next section out and all that entails to that.. A person doing puzzles have very few if any inside cuts.. you set at the saw to make the puzzle for 30 minutes the saw is running most of that 30 minutes.. You'd be really surprised how much time difference there is on the saw when doing fretwork vrs puzzles etc.. I can spend 40 hours a week in the shop but much of it is sanding and prep work for the next project.. many times I'm lucky to get 5 hours on the clock of the saw.. even though I worked out there all week.. LOL other times I can put 5 hours in one day if doing puzzles or similar..

It could be speed, I don't know.. But what I find when I take these saws apart is lack of grease.. and sometimes it looks as though there was never any grease and other times it looks like the grease turned into a sticky thick paste.. This is usually in the bearings at the front lower parts.. which I believe the fine wood dust as absorbed any moisture in the grease and turned it into that thick sticky paste that is no longer really being a lubricant.. When I rebuilt my DeWalt the second time I put in some high quality bearings ( about double the price of any others ) and I used a high quality synthetic grease.. The saw did last a lot longer.. however taking it apart does find that the grease is just drying out.. I would say that IF there was a easy way to grease these saws regularly they'd last just like a Hawk or Hegner.. The issue is nobody wants to take it apart just to do a grease job on it.. Hawk and Hegners have everything out in the open and you just place a few drops of light oil every 10 or 20 hours per manufacture... If you don't oil a Hegner they also wear out bearings.. I tend to think it's more about lack of lube than anything.. and what happens is you have several pivot points on these saws.. If one of these points starts getting stiff and not moving freely it's putting stress on all the other points and especially that main point at the back of the saw.. that all transfers throughout the saw..

Right, and likely the same plant that produces the Seyco, King, Pegas, and Jet saws.. and probably many others..

Yeah, sure miss Radio Shack.. LOL..

If they put hour meters on saws.. I'd say the DeWalt and EX type saws you'd be looking at needing a rebuild around 250 - 350 hours.. That has been my experience.. I do around 250 - 350 hours a year on my saws but I have 5 different saws to rotate around to, LOL.. Scott ( Iggy ) replaces a DeWalt every year to one and a half years which I feel is pretty consistent to my conclusion of the 250 -350 hours.. for the amount of work he does every year.. IF a person didn't want to spend money replacing that drive link every couple years and had some down time to take the saw apart and grease all those bearings every 150 - 200 hours you could probably get by for quite a long time on the drive link. But personally I feel like for the amount of work and time it takes to clean up the old bearings sleeves etc and the whole assembly is only around $120.. just run it until it starts making noise and replace the assembly.. Having an hour meter and knowing this info.. if you're going into the busy holiday season with close to 250 hours.. you may just buy the part and have it on hand.. or a backup saw etc.. On a rare occasion one might last much longer than that.. But so far that has been my experience.. for whatever that info might be worth to anyone..

I replaced one once before on my older Hawk.. not because it went bad but because I broke the knob off trying to repair a problem with the motor and Hawk would only sell it as a set for $350 for motor and controller, LOL.. I do believe there are different ohm ratings for them but I don't remember for sure.. I'll pull it apart and make sure the numbers match when ordering the new one if I need to order a new one.. I haven't taken it apart yet.. probably won't until after the holidays.. Just gathering info about it for when the time comes to dig into it.. I do know from experience that it doesn't matter too much if you mix up the wires.. The one I did on the Hawk got the wires messed up and when I put it back together the dial worked backwards.. slow on the dial was actually fast and fast was slow... I took it apart and reversed the wires and now it works the way it should.. LOL

So my Excalibur potentiometer ( Variable speed switch ) has been finicky for a long time now.. for a while I could blow air in it and it seemed like it sort of fixed the issue but now it doesn't matter much what I do.. I pretty much run the saw at the same speed all the time with an occasional adjustment based on project at hand.. It started out as just touching the dial to make adjustment while saw running would make it jump to slow / fast until I took my hand off the dial.. and it made it difficult to get a speed I wanted but once there it was fine.. however now it will randomly slow down during cutting.. Not a lot just from time to time but, it's getting more and more common, LOL.. My question, would a electrical contact cleaner possibly work or is the contact points inside the switch? I just have some CLR contact cleaner.. I seen on ebay where there was a special pot switch cleaner.. probably the same stuff just branded specific? I guess I could just try it as the switch is going to be replaced anyway if it doesn't fix it, LOL.. but thought I'd ask.. I see Seyco gets $55 for the switch with the wire harness.. I can buy just the switch on eBay for $1.98 and solder it to the wires so if I replace it that seems like a better deal, LOL

Yeah, I didn't use the instructions at all.. I had already had it completely apart prior to replacing the assembly trying to just add grease to by some time..

Seems like a lot of these with different names have popped up over the last couple years... I feel like I've seen a topic in the past about the Rikon? But I haven't seen the grizzly one for sure.. The prices makes me wonder if they are just cloned China version of the EX like I have.. The rikon being a 22" saw maybe more resembles a Jet that is also 22".. is the Seyco 22 or is it a 21.. I don't remember.. https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-21-variable-speed-scroll-saw-with-foot-pedal/g0969 https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tools/saws/115353-rikon-22-professional-variable-speed-scroll-saw?item=03J7398&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&srsltid=AfmBOoqEHl3dMNT7osHN79J_8pkge5mq260mOt1i24qrvouTtrekbl37o48

Yeah I hear you on that.. I was greatly disappointed with my EX21 within the first month I had it.. at the time there was no knowledge of the China made saw.. I owned the thing tweaking things constantly.. then when the info started hitting the internet about the China made one I had to go out to look at my tag... sure enough.. LOL.. I know yours is not the China version.. and I would have expected it to go much longer than it had.. If I remember correctly you got yours just before they stopped making the "good ones" which was when I got mine too.. 2017.. Two rebuilds later and now the electronics is acting up... Think it's just the speed switch itself cause if I even lightly touch it it almost stops the saw.. 505 hours on the clock of mine.. Probably just buy the switch and solder it on after I get through the holidays.. had to do that with a different saw a few years ago.. The sad thing is.. I got that $100 35 year old Hawk 220VS and put another $100 into a couple worn tension cam parts and I ran that saw trouble free for 300 hours before I sold it for $250 and got my new one.. which has around 475 trouble free hours.. I'm not knocking these saws.. but the issues I had with my Dewalt.. rebuilding it twice and similar issues to the EX that I'm having now.. I'm pretty skeptical to pay nearly $1000 for a Pegas or anything similar when a new hawk can be had for about $200 more.. I think the companies making these are using some real cheap bearings and probably barely any grease.. even though.. I put in my own high end synthetic grease on these saws when I rebuilt them.. so maybe just crap bearings.. I don't remember the ratio that Ray gave me but he said to me that the quality of the link arm assemblies are hit or miss.. I wanna say he was saying about every 3rd one he sells is actually a good one and last a few years.. That to me wasn't too promising to hear since he gets these from the same factory that makes the Seyco and Pegas saws.. All that said.. the link arm parts replaces all the bearings and comes fully assembled.. not too expensive compared to a new saw.. and not too bad of a job to change..

I find it odd that he wants to start at the top arm.. my experience has always been the bottom bearings due to all the fine sawdust falling down there.. but he is the man to know more than I... it'll be interesting to see how this pans out..

Good to see you drop in and say hi.. I thought you probably forgot about us on the village.. LOL As you already know I'm on the FB group.. however I don't do much on FB and miss a lot of the news so it's nice to see you're still at it.. I do recall seeing something about you moving.. but that was about all I knew of it.. Wish you luck for the new location.. Probably going to be a bit tougher not being right in a tourist type area.. I'm sure you'll pull through it fine though.. You have that drive that is persistent to make things work..

If it's been used quite a lot it could be the one bigger needle bearing and sleeve in the rocker arm part at the back of the saw.. I say that because that is the bearing that takes most of the abuse and each time I've taken one apart there has been virtually no grease and there was a bunch of powdery looking like rust that coated the sleeve and bearing.. I don't think this is rust but rather a component of the dried up grease.. When Rolf rebuilt a saw for a friend he found the same thing.. so I say it's probably one of the common issues.. Here is a link to my rebuild and Rolf posted his photos on this topic too.. maybe it'll give you an idea of what's inside the saw etc..

I haven't tried it yet.. I might order some and give it a try on the scroll saw.. if all else fails I could use it in the laser like the guys on the laser site do.. I would think it would scroll no different than using tape around a stacked project but I don't know.. I could see it causing issues if you was to wear through the paper that you peel off.. then you might have the permanent scroll saw project stuff to your saw table, LOL

The guys on the laser site are using it on wood layered ornaments.. they place it on before laser cutting the ornaments and then peel and stick to the backer.. Here is a sample of a layered ornament that I made.. I've been using glue but it's a job not getting too much glue and getting squeezed out and then not getting enough glue and having them come apart.. Everyone on the laser site was saying that's all they use and it works great.. Also glue doesn't stick the greatest to painted surfaces.. when painting I be careful not to paint a small area around the outer edge to get a decent bond.. I think the tape would work on the painted surface just fine.

Meee.... I had to move them twice to get it to finally move enough to get the smoothest spot.. maybe it was three times.. I know I tried three times to see where I could find the best spot.. I'm not sure where I ended up finding the best location at but yes.. I have moved the bolts to the other set of holes at least twice. Not sure how you do it or how it's supposed to be done in the manual but I loosen the bolts just loose enough to be able to move the motor with a little resistance and then I run the saw on low while spinning the motor to see where it looks to be the less blade movement then I tighten it all up once I find the sweet spot..

run across this stuff while browsing one of the laser forums I'm on.. Thought it might be useful for certain type of scrolled projects so thought I'd share. The folks on the laser site said they put this stuff on the back of the project before they laser cut it.. then once the backer is also cut and they're ready for gluing to the backer they just peel the protective stuff off the to expose the tape and place it onto the backer... I guess it's sticky as they say to make sure you're lined up because once you stick it you're not going to move it.. They mentioned to not buy the stuff on Amazon because the quality is bad.. and they mentioned some other sites that I assume are known laser supply sites as I've never heard of them.. I just googled the 3M 467MP number and grainger has it.. Not sure why they say not to get it on Amazon.. 3M 467MP should all be the same quality unless someone is selling stuff that didn't pass Quality Control, LOL Anyway I found it on Grainger.. I might give it a try sometime since I've been doing a lot of layered ornaments.. I also wonder how it'd do for those that make jigsaw puzzles from photos or old calendars etc.. I didn't go looking for the best price or anything.. I also seen it comes in various widths and lengths.. https://www.grainger.com/product/24WG69?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2293:99F1R6:20501231&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiApaarBhB7EiwAYiMwqqsJ50eOjJdQ5TyxGA6Sbojwe5P3G7yFpIYtlhBxXKaSCxqvjMVcuBoC8-EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds