kmmcrafts

Mine is a 2002 and has the regular spring, front tension release and quick clamp.. I also would be curious as to when some of the features were introduced.. He has a decent write up but I did notice there was a lot left out.. Kind of why I have never done one for the Hawk.. There is a lot of changes that I probably don't even know about.. Over the years of reading the forums / looking at used saws and calling Hawk about saws I find and was interested in buying.. I've learned quite a lot.. Just never followed the Hegners as closely because used ones around my area are more than any used Hawk.. and in some cases just as much as a new Hawk, so.. I've just never really looked a lot at the Hegners like I did with Hawks

After watching some youtube on the multi tool as a sander.. I'm not interested in it as a sander.. pretty neat tool and might still get one but as a sander it's not a great tool from the reviews I read. They say it leaves lots of swirl marks.. That is the issue I had with the little mouse sander thing I have.. I now remember why I quit using it..

That's a nice write up.. I should do similar write-up for the hawk saws.. they made small and some larger changes to improve the scrolling experience.. Much like Heger.. the people see a big orange saw and the Hawk nameplate that makes them think it's a great saw.. which most were but there are some better than others.. unless you have a trained eye to know what to look for in a hawk one would think they're all the same..

When you run out of paint in the markers I learned that I can refill them.. I now just buy cheap acrylic paint from walmart and dilute it with water and the ends un-screw.. some are left handed threads.. like the Posca ones are left hand threads.. not sure on other brands.. also best to use distilled water

Thanks, That does look like a good deal... Your second link is the same as the first?

Not sure why I never thought of that for woodwork stuff.. I do this in the auto repair for cleaning out the drive shaft for new U-joints etc. Or steering knuckles for wheel bearings...

I didn't always sand them like this until one day I had a small defect in a project.. and I ended up sanding out the defect.. turned out a lot nicer by sanding it smoother than the saw blade made it and really made a big difference in the overall project.. ever since then I just sand the profile and face and back surface down to 320.. Your work is top notch JT, I was never saying it wasn't.. It's just one of the processes I do because I did it once and that's how I liked it.. and that's how I'm going to continue to do it.. even if it has to be hand sanded without a detail sander.. Obviously some clocks do not have a easy sanding surface as you mentioned.. The saw blade is as good as it get with those type clocks.. but the ones like the prayer clock or similar I sand them.. There is no right or wrong way it's just the way I like to do it.. Does it really "need it" I guess not.. just that little extra I like to do because there is a visible and a feel to the touch difference.

Yeah I start off sanding with like 180, 240 and then usually stop at 320.. Not all about time.. however I don't want to lollygag either but quality does matter too, LOL..

Have not used the Pegas brand of these but years ago I tried some other brand.. maybe Olsen? and they worked pretty good.. But I'm too cheap to buy these.. since I can make my own from a old saw blade and some 3M spray adhesive and just glue the cut strips of sandpaper to each side of the old blade.. works just the same and possibly better as it has the strip of metal ( the blade ) to make it a bit more rigid.. Whatever the old brand was I used back in the day.. the plastic ends was pretty thick and wouldn't mount in some of my saws.. like the Hawk with the barrel clamp and the EX slot in the blade chuck was too narrow.. I think I used them in my DeWalt but it barely fit.

Maybe overkill but I have always sanded the surface and the outer profile down to 320 and sometimes 400 grit paper.. I have yet had a scroll saw blade that leaves that smooth of an surface.. It's not super rough either but not smooth like I make the surface.. FD blades do leave a smoother surface than the Pegas do but not by enough to the point that I wouldn't need to sand the surface down some.. at least that is how I have always done it.. maybe I'm overkill on the sanding.. had many people mention how smooth it feels to the touch.. so I've just always done that.

I have been doing a lot of hand painting using Posca paint markers.. I get a lot better control of the details with the markers than Paint brushes... I've been doing them on bare wood.. and then lacquer over the top after the backer is glued. My reason for this is because I've read that glue doesn't bond too great on a painted surface so I do not primer first or anything.. IF I don't have a backer to be going on the back but have painting on the front I do use a coat of clear lacquer so the paint marker glides across the wood a little better.

Well, maybe I don't need a detail sander.. I'm not sure the meaning of a detail sander.. I mentioned above that I wanted to sand tight spots on the praying hands clock that I had a big order for.. the random orbital 5" sander I have does great on the top and around part way down the sides but I cannot get too close to the bottom of the clocks feet.. so basically I was looking for something that'd get into the tighter areas closer to the feet of the clock down where it gets close to meeting the base of the clock... Probably the little mouse type sander would work at least better than the RO sander.. For inside fretwork cutouts I just glue sandpaper to a old saw blade and have at it with my saw IF I need to sand in them for some reason.. I suppose that could have also been done with the clocks too.. but since it's around the outside edge of the clock the RO sander did great other than down closer to the feet of the clock.

Found a great use for my hold down.. I welded a old cam / timing gear on it and then welded some 1/4" bolts to it and it makes a great handle for holding the cam timing gears while trying to re-install a timing chain on a 3.7L or 4.7L Dodge or Jeep.. Made a nice handle and you can stick a screwdriver through the slot where the blade normally is to hold everything while you go down underneath to make sure everything is timed correct before tightening all the bolts.. I'm sure you all could find something to do with yours if you have a need for a tool or something to make with it. LOL

Think I might have to look into one of those multi tool things.. I've heard of a lot of different uses for those.. Got a HF gift card so maybe I'll see what they have for one of those..

Anyone know when they came out with that up front tension lever and the quick clamp? Mine is a 2002 if I remember right and it has it.. I often wondered when they came up with the latest design stuff. Mine doesn't have that dust collector horn thing below the table. I also know that they changed the front of the base slightly at one point.. one style has a angled part on the front and the other is more squared off. Mine also has the metal tube for the air bellows / blower that goes through the front part of the upper arm and blows the dust off the project.. the newer ones have a flexible air hose..

You would gain a lighter wallet.. other than that nothing... lol

A lot of the big name designers I think may have been before I really got into scrolling, or maybe because when I first got into it I first found the MSN and Yahoo groups and there were so many designs being posted every day that I never really learned of those bigger names until several years after I got into the hobby. Funny Paul you mention the burnt edges.. I get people asking me to paint the edges like some of my other things are painted as they like the detail it brings to the ornament, LOL.. I guess ugly burnt edges is liked by some folks.. I've seen on the FB scroll saw groups where one person actually is painting the edges because they like it that way too. Some designs I do like the darker edges while others I don't..

Probably not, I believe some of the saws have a different link arm system and they don’t use the second bellows. If it’s not banging loud when running it doesn’t use the second bellows I assume.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all as well. I’m glad that was all the issue was. I’m not sure what you could use for a band aid for a few days until the correct part can placed in there. I know some ATV’s have CV boots that are close to the same thing but you would have to cut it down to size. Auto parts stores may have something.

I'd say the most common pattern designer that I've done a lot of purchasing and cutting of their design work would be Sue Mey, Sheila and Keith Landry, a few Charles Dearing, Charles Hand, and Harvey Byler.. I'm sure I'm forgetting some.. but these are more current folks that are still doing business. There are tons of designers that are in my mind famous but they don't sell patterns but rather offer free patterns and take request.. for me these folks are the best.. There must be hundreds of names for this category of designers and I know I'll miss a good number of names.. some of these names are current and many are from some years ago and I have no idea if they are still around.. First are the ones still around doing this.. Paul ( Grampa ), Don in Brooklin On. Steve Good, We used to have Bob? ( Old Crow ) I think he has past on.. Now for some names of the past.. some may be still around under different sites and using different screen names etc.. But how about, ARPOP, Sylvia ( Thesawdustmistress ), Muleskinner, Sue Walker (Shadylady0447), Ski86401, Woodywoodscroller, Thestoxxschange, Norm Benjamin, Dave Hall ( Did a lot of cool car designs ), Scrollzilla, Wade Smith, Kevin Daly, TDPainter, PawPaw, SullyScroller, Smitty, Sam Custodio, Andy Dean, Messman ( I think he is on this site from time to time ) I currently can't think of any others off the top of my head.. Most all of these folks listed I have done their patterns or they made me designs on request from various sites... I'm sure you'll recognize many of the names JT.. If I went through the thousands of pattern files I have on a hard drive I'm sure I could find a good list of names.. There used to me hundreds of designers on the old MSN and Yahoo Groups and when they shut those groups down we lost a lot of designers.. also unfortunately due to folks having designs made and then selling the designs made many designers quit doing free work etc.. so we lost a lot from that too.. Then there was not a designer but one that helped many folks get into the jigsaw puzzle making.. I think his name was Carter? He has past on a few years ago.. It seems like his name was Carter Johnson? Also not a designer but a person that was on the forums a lot and had a website that he sold puzzles on was Mike.. can't think of his last name but his website name was WoodNThings.. he also passed a few years ago.

Let me tell you, those bellows can be a bit of a pain to get back in the tube without knocking them off the rocker arm or getting them twisted up.. I told myself the next time I do it I'm putting some soapy water or something a little slick to help them slide into the tube better.. they seemed to want to catch on something and pull them off the little nub or get all cockeyed in there.. so maybe a tip to save some frustration maybe coat the rubber where it would want to touch the inside of the tube with a little soap or something.. Let me know if that helps, LOL.. maybe just my saw that I struggled with but anyway.. just a heads up that it might be tricky to put back in..

Yeah, that happen to me, LOL... I bought the new BM-26 and a month later one popped up for $700 that was never really used in the next town over.. I needed to use it as a tax deduction anyway but. On the other hand I was offered a Hegner Mutimax 14 with stand, foot switch and magnifier light for $40 at a estate sale and I walked.. It was old and didn't have any of the comfort things on it.. I kinda kicked myself for it but then 4 years later ( this spring ) I had that newer model Multimax 18 with foot switch etc. given to me. I almost walked on it as there was no blade holders with it so I couldn't even try it.. but that was a good thing because I would have happily gave him the $200 he was asking but since it was missing stuff he said take it or it was going in the big dumpster.. I said I'll take it.. he even carried it up the hill and loaded it in my car, LOL He was just cleaning out the house as quick as possible for a house sale as his parents just went into a care home. I could of had the whole shop.. but most other tools was cheap stuff.

The bellows are pushed onto a little nub that is on the rocker arms.. I've even seen where they just popped off.. likely from the rubber becoming deteriorated over the years.. You might be able to use some tape.. probably electrical tape would work as it's a bit more flexible.. to sort of doctor it up until you can get a new one mailed in to you. Also might be able to match something up at a auto parts store. CV boots for a small car or ATV and cut it down might also work.. Here is what it should look like when pulling the end caps off.. https://seyco.com/product/ex21-c27c-top-and-bottom-front-rocker-arm-assemblies/

Weird, I replied an hour ago on my phone but it didn't go through, LOL.. Probably show up after I re-type it all out again.. Yeah, you will have to remove just the one screw that holds the link arm that goes into the tube.. The one that goes back to the motor.. The other short links that go to the front blade chucks etc can stay on I think you just need to remove the one so you can pull out the end cap with the four screws on the tube itself.. That should allow you to pull that out and see back in there better. If your air blower is still working fine it's likely the one on the bottom arm.. but I would run the saw and try to determine if the noise is in the top or bottom arm. You might be able to shine a small pen light or similar in there and be able to see if the bellows has come apart or not..

In both top and bottom arm tubes there is a bellows but only one is for the air blower, the other is to be a cushion to prevent the link rods from hammering on the tube or saw body. I call them tubes as it’s just square tubing. I’m thinking that might be the issue.