kmmcrafts

I have been doing a lot of hand painting using Posca paint markers.. I get a lot better control of the details with the markers than Paint brushes... I've been doing them on bare wood.. and then lacquer over the top after the backer is glued. My reason for this is because I've read that glue doesn't bond too great on a painted surface so I do not primer first or anything.. IF I don't have a backer to be going on the back but have painting on the front I do use a coat of clear lacquer so the paint marker glides across the wood a little better.

Well, maybe I don't need a detail sander.. I'm not sure the meaning of a detail sander.. I mentioned above that I wanted to sand tight spots on the praying hands clock that I had a big order for.. the random orbital 5" sander I have does great on the top and around part way down the sides but I cannot get too close to the bottom of the clocks feet.. so basically I was looking for something that'd get into the tighter areas closer to the feet of the clock down where it gets close to meeting the base of the clock... Probably the little mouse type sander would work at least better than the RO sander.. For inside fretwork cutouts I just glue sandpaper to a old saw blade and have at it with my saw IF I need to sand in them for some reason.. I suppose that could have also been done with the clocks too.. but since it's around the outside edge of the clock the RO sander did great other than down closer to the feet of the clock.

Found a great use for my hold down.. I welded a old cam / timing gear on it and then welded some 1/4" bolts to it and it makes a great handle for holding the cam timing gears while trying to re-install a timing chain on a 3.7L or 4.7L Dodge or Jeep.. Made a nice handle and you can stick a screwdriver through the slot where the blade normally is to hold everything while you go down underneath to make sure everything is timed correct before tightening all the bolts.. I'm sure you all could find something to do with yours if you have a need for a tool or something to make with it. LOL

Think I might have to look into one of those multi tool things.. I've heard of a lot of different uses for those.. Got a HF gift card so maybe I'll see what they have for one of those..

Anyone know when they came out with that up front tension lever and the quick clamp? Mine is a 2002 if I remember right and it has it.. I often wondered when they came up with the latest design stuff. Mine doesn't have that dust collector horn thing below the table. I also know that they changed the front of the base slightly at one point.. one style has a angled part on the front and the other is more squared off. Mine also has the metal tube for the air bellows / blower that goes through the front part of the upper arm and blows the dust off the project.. the newer ones have a flexible air hose..

You would gain a lighter wallet.. other than that nothing... lol

A lot of the big name designers I think may have been before I really got into scrolling, or maybe because when I first got into it I first found the MSN and Yahoo groups and there were so many designs being posted every day that I never really learned of those bigger names until several years after I got into the hobby. Funny Paul you mention the burnt edges.. I get people asking me to paint the edges like some of my other things are painted as they like the detail it brings to the ornament, LOL.. I guess ugly burnt edges is liked by some folks.. I've seen on the FB scroll saw groups where one person actually is painting the edges because they like it that way too. Some designs I do like the darker edges while others I don't..

Probably not, I believe some of the saws have a different link arm system and they don’t use the second bellows. If it’s not banging loud when running it doesn’t use the second bellows I assume.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all as well. I’m glad that was all the issue was. I’m not sure what you could use for a band aid for a few days until the correct part can placed in there. I know some ATV’s have CV boots that are close to the same thing but you would have to cut it down to size. Auto parts stores may have something.

I'd say the most common pattern designer that I've done a lot of purchasing and cutting of their design work would be Sue Mey, Sheila and Keith Landry, a few Charles Dearing, Charles Hand, and Harvey Byler.. I'm sure I'm forgetting some.. but these are more current folks that are still doing business. There are tons of designers that are in my mind famous but they don't sell patterns but rather offer free patterns and take request.. for me these folks are the best.. There must be hundreds of names for this category of designers and I know I'll miss a good number of names.. some of these names are current and many are from some years ago and I have no idea if they are still around.. First are the ones still around doing this.. Paul ( Grampa ), Don in Brooklin On. Steve Good, We used to have Bob? ( Old Crow ) I think he has past on.. Now for some names of the past.. some may be still around under different sites and using different screen names etc.. But how about, ARPOP, Sylvia ( Thesawdustmistress ), Muleskinner, Sue Walker (Shadylady0447), Ski86401, Woodywoodscroller, Thestoxxschange, Norm Benjamin, Dave Hall ( Did a lot of cool car designs ), Scrollzilla, Wade Smith, Kevin Daly, TDPainter, PawPaw, SullyScroller, Smitty, Sam Custodio, Andy Dean, Messman ( I think he is on this site from time to time ) I currently can't think of any others off the top of my head.. Most all of these folks listed I have done their patterns or they made me designs on request from various sites... I'm sure you'll recognize many of the names JT.. If I went through the thousands of pattern files I have on a hard drive I'm sure I could find a good list of names.. There used to me hundreds of designers on the old MSN and Yahoo Groups and when they shut those groups down we lost a lot of designers.. also unfortunately due to folks having designs made and then selling the designs made many designers quit doing free work etc.. so we lost a lot from that too.. Then there was not a designer but one that helped many folks get into the jigsaw puzzle making.. I think his name was Carter? He has past on a few years ago.. It seems like his name was Carter Johnson? Also not a designer but a person that was on the forums a lot and had a website that he sold puzzles on was Mike.. can't think of his last name but his website name was WoodNThings.. he also passed a few years ago.

Let me tell you, those bellows can be a bit of a pain to get back in the tube without knocking them off the rocker arm or getting them twisted up.. I told myself the next time I do it I'm putting some soapy water or something a little slick to help them slide into the tube better.. they seemed to want to catch on something and pull them off the little nub or get all cockeyed in there.. so maybe a tip to save some frustration maybe coat the rubber where it would want to touch the inside of the tube with a little soap or something.. Let me know if that helps, LOL.. maybe just my saw that I struggled with but anyway.. just a heads up that it might be tricky to put back in..

Yeah, that happen to me, LOL... I bought the new BM-26 and a month later one popped up for $700 that was never really used in the next town over.. I needed to use it as a tax deduction anyway but. On the other hand I was offered a Hegner Mutimax 14 with stand, foot switch and magnifier light for $40 at a estate sale and I walked.. It was old and didn't have any of the comfort things on it.. I kinda kicked myself for it but then 4 years later ( this spring ) I had that newer model Multimax 18 with foot switch etc. given to me. I almost walked on it as there was no blade holders with it so I couldn't even try it.. but that was a good thing because I would have happily gave him the $200 he was asking but since it was missing stuff he said take it or it was going in the big dumpster.. I said I'll take it.. he even carried it up the hill and loaded it in my car, LOL He was just cleaning out the house as quick as possible for a house sale as his parents just went into a care home. I could of had the whole shop.. but most other tools was cheap stuff.

The bellows are pushed onto a little nub that is on the rocker arms.. I've even seen where they just popped off.. likely from the rubber becoming deteriorated over the years.. You might be able to use some tape.. probably electrical tape would work as it's a bit more flexible.. to sort of doctor it up until you can get a new one mailed in to you. Also might be able to match something up at a auto parts store. CV boots for a small car or ATV and cut it down might also work.. Here is what it should look like when pulling the end caps off.. https://seyco.com/product/ex21-c27c-top-and-bottom-front-rocker-arm-assemblies/

Weird, I replied an hour ago on my phone but it didn't go through, LOL.. Probably show up after I re-type it all out again.. Yeah, you will have to remove just the one screw that holds the link arm that goes into the tube.. The one that goes back to the motor.. The other short links that go to the front blade chucks etc can stay on I think you just need to remove the one so you can pull out the end cap with the four screws on the tube itself.. That should allow you to pull that out and see back in there better. If your air blower is still working fine it's likely the one on the bottom arm.. but I would run the saw and try to determine if the noise is in the top or bottom arm. You might be able to shine a small pen light or similar in there and be able to see if the bellows has come apart or not..

In both top and bottom arm tubes there is a bellows but only one is for the air blower, the other is to be a cushion to prevent the link rods from hammering on the tube or saw body. I call them tubes as it’s just square tubing. I’m thinking that might be the issue.

The patterns are made by Rick Longabough , There are several scroll saw pattern books by him and Karen.. I'm sure it's in one of his books but which one I don't know.. https://www.thriftbooks.com/w/400-full-size-mini-clock-patterns_rick-longabaugh/1537348/#edition=2762767&idiq=18839796

I wouldn't know where to send you to get that pattern now days.. I purchased it back in 2007 - 8 I believe as the designers were retiring ( if I remember correctly ) and they ran a sale with all their 2000 or more patterns.. I purchased the whole batch of their patterns from I think Cherrytree.com or something like that.. I'm pretty sure it's out there for sale but I can't help with that.. Maybe someone else will chime in with where it's available now..

He is a wealth of knowledge for sure.. Thanks JT for the detailed description of your finishing process..

Any issues with top coating over Danish oil with lacquer? I much rather use lacquer too.. but top coating over the oil base with solvent base is a big no no in the automotive world so I've never attempted it.. I know you mentioned water base so that is probably okay over the Danish oil.. I have all the spray equipment but I never did big enough batches where i would top coat to be worth the effort to dig out the spray equipment and the clean-up process is painful for just a dozen or so projects at a time.. I recently bought a couple cans of water base in the spray cans.. don't know if I got a bad batch or what but the spray nozzle was just spitting the stuff out and actually ruined my project.. Never again with that.. It was Varathane Brand.. I have used the water based poly in the blue spray can and it has always worked pretty well so long as you shake it up good and also have the can at a good temp.. To cold out and it does the same thing as the other stuff I was just talking about..Probably the water to cold, LOL.. but the other stuff was back in the summer so cold wasn't an issue..

Yeah Danish oil is my go too for finishing.. sometimes I'll top coat with poly too but not too often. They do have 3 different formulas for it.. some is quite thick and the others are a bit thin ( watery ).. I like the thicker stuff best but they all work good.. but the thicker one give off more of a rich sheen look to it.. Kind of think the thicker one has a higher oil content in it than the others.. but it may be the same mix other than just reduced down more with tinners or whatever driers they add to it.

I need a larger drying rack, lol . This is a makeshift thing setting on the floor is spill over because this all wouldn’t fit on my drying rack. Lol. I likely won’t ever be needing one as this is not a common large order. But anyway they’re all done and dipped in Danish oil. Currently drying, probably package them up Sunday and have them in the mail Monday morning. Was a good order to do that didn’t really take as long as I had figured. Doing one off of the clocks does take longer than going production style and mass producing them.

I also like the round over edges.. was always going to buy a router to do them but still haven't done it.. I do sand the edges and sort of take off the sharp edges but I never did get a router for doing this.. Guess instead of a sander maybe I should think about getting a router.. I'm halfway there because I have the round over bit.. just nothing to put it in,

Yeah I have a Mac Mop.. I was thinking more of a small detail sander that'd get some minor shaping in tighter areas.. or maybe I just need a smaller mop sander.. I think I have the 6" one.. as it doesn't get in some of the tighter spots and they really don't do great for shaping etc.. However now that you mention the mouse sander, I actually forgot I have one, LOL.. I guess that shows how much I use it.. maybe I don't really need a sander like that. The large clock order I was sanding the outer profile of the clock and my belt sander is too aggressive and a pain to swap to a finer paper.. the R/O sander works good but not in the tighter spots as you get down close to the clock feet area.. I usually just sand these areas by hand and maybe will continue with that.. But being I have so many to make I was thinking that maybe some sort of small detail sander would have sped up the process.. they're done now and the likelihood of getting another order like that again is probably rare.. LOL

Thinking about a new detail sander.. what one do you use / like? I have 1/4 sheet sanders and Random orbital sanders but I think a small detail sander would be handy to use for some projects.

I already had most of the blanks needed to do this that was scroll sawn.. Actually had them all but a couple of the engravings didn't turn out the greatest so I scrolled 4 more.. glad this job was a quick easy one and done with already. I keep a stack of blanks ready to laser for a few of my ornaments styles that get personalization request frequently..