kmmcrafts

I do the right thing, or I should say I don't purposely do the wrong thing.. I had company show up as I was typing so in regards to my post, I never really finished up to say that it's not the right thing to do etc. so if you are referring to me I wasn't done, LOL Guess I should have waited to finish before posting. I just don't understand how some designers can have certain regulations on their patterns and how they can go about proving it.. I get it with trademark items that you "copy something" but when you legally buy a pattern but are only to make 10 items how does that get proven.. ( again not saying it's okay to make more and hope to not get caught just don't understand it in the first place )It's a pretty grey area unless you obviously are at a show with 50 of them and caught red handed.. (also my understanding is that you have to be the holder of the copywrite to make a case).. otherwise it's a pretty hard proof. Unless I'm missing something. For the most part I think scroll sawers are pretty trust worthy because they know the meaning of "handmade" much better than someone that just buys a machine to make things for them while they watch over said machine.. I belong to many laser and cnc forums / groups.. and most of those guys seem to think everything is free.. and don't give a rats behind about the designer or a copywrite.. That is really why I brought these particular stipulations up.. without seeing their sales history how does it get proven.. I never once said anything about it being okay to do.. I just think the stipulations are kind of dumb to put in place.. though I'm not a designer and I don't carry copywrites or trademarks.. maybe something they have written that they know they cannot prove but to a certain minority of thief's at craft fairs with boatloads of inventory can give them some legal ground to stand if that were to happen.. possibly for those laser folks.. Those laser groups are terrible with loads of people arguing about this very type of thing and make the good guys have a bad name for it..

Honestly shouldn't bother you if the laser / cnc guys are taking the patterns and running them on their machines.. Now... if you're the designer and "you" don't want laser / cnc machines making your designs then by all means enforce it somehow.. but good luck with that.. Kinda like Sue Meys stipulations of here patterns.. can only make and sell X amount before needing a commercial license... How would that be enforced? and proven that you sold only 1 or 1000? She is hoping for the honor system on this because does she have the time to search out peoples sales.. does she have the right to investigate ones sales to clarify? I don't know the answers to this but if shes worried about the money she could be loosing on the commercial license she'd probably be way farther ahead by just taking the investigation time / money.. to create something new and move on from it..

I get what you mean here but on the other hand you could just copy every pattern makers work and add or remove a bridge etc. and call it your own.. I believe that I had read somewhere that a design had to be changed up a sort of certain percentage to not be infringing.. Kinda makes me think.. I could just change the the formula slightly for a penetrating oil and call it WD-45.. suppose they'd go after me? This Archer puzzle was taken down from my Amazon store last fall I think it was.. It was deemed to be too similar to a sports team logo.. I'm not a sports person so I don't recall what team but I believe it was Kansas City Chiefs.. I personally did see " some similarities" as in the overall shape.. but we're talking about football vrs Archery and the puzzle clearly says Archer on it not anything to do with football or the said teams logo.. In fact.. I had a hard time finding the logo because it was the teams " old " logo from some years ago.. "I think" This is the link to the said logo. https://www.pinterest.fr/pin/296041375490544653/ I probably could have disputed this and won against it.. BUT, is it worth the effort and time to do that for a product I sell only about 3 - 5 of per year, LOL.. My point is.. if you make and sell stuff and someone wants to they can go after you over most anything.. there seems to be some sort of a copywrite or trademark reference to most anything, especially if you see how similar the two things are.. to me they're not even close to the same thing for a copywrite / trademark.. but if it came to a lawsuit probably depend on who has the best legal defense, LOL I do agree on all your other points and you wrote it quite well..

You're not safe from infringing a copywrite just because someone makes and sells the patterns, something I always thought I was safe from so long as I used Sue Mey, or Sheila / Keith Landry or other well known designers patterns.. I've had seize letters and items taken down from Etsy and Amazon from items I've made from these designers.. Same with a few of the puzzle patterns that Iggy is selling on his website.. I mentioned to the designers about the particular items and they never took them off their sites so you still can buy make and sell said patterns from these designers and get yourself into legal actions so don't think for a second that because the designers sell these they are safe.. I just wanted to make that clear to anyone that doesn't know this. I've had about 6 of these over the coarse of my 15 years of selling crafts online.. I have no issues with stopping selling something and never relist / sell a item that had been taken down.. I don't want to be sued but I also don't want to sit in a corner with my tail between my legs scared to make and sell things either.. The problem is.. there is so many copywrite / trademarked items out there that there is really hardly any way to keep track of some of them.. and people are going through the process to copywrite / trademark new items and sayings etc. every day so it's about impossible to keep up with it..

Well I've checked Sue Mey's site, Sheila's site and Wooden Teddy Bear and not a single snowmobile pattern of any kind.. I feel like it's probably something somebody just whipped up because I feel like if it were designed by one of these fine artist they'd had put more details in it.. This looks more like someone stuck a piece of snowmobile clipart and combined it with one of Cherry Trees desk clock frame designs..

You can always reach out to the seller of Amazon and ask.. While I think that is wrong for them to not have this in the description you could mention that to them as it is important for your customer to know what they are getting.. There are a lot of sellers that do not understand this and overlook it thinking you should know, or whatever.. just oversite maybe.. but if you have concern ask.. Edit: maybe off topic but I find a lot of eBay and Amazon design sellers actually selling designs that are not their own... It's crazy how people just think they can use and do whatever they want on the internet.. If it's online they feel it's public domain..

I'm thinking this is something someone did up themselves. Customer said they got it at a second hand thrift store and they want another one for their other son. I don't recall seeing any snowmobile clock patterns.. Just thought I'd ask to see if anyone knows of this pattern or similar one..

I personally think you would do well with just putting out anything that you normally sell.. or is that what you do at these events, but have a few themed things as well? Sorry I don't do vendor events so I don't know.. Having went to one of these as a spectator and many others that probably go that have many other interest I would think you'd sell most anything at one.. Do you guys do well at these type of themed events, I get invites all the time from etsy where people looking for vendors, I always figured they must not be a very good event if they have to reach out to vendors on etsy, LOL Just last night I was invited to the Detroit Auto Sema show as a vendor, where they show concept cars and custom built cars etc. It's a once a year thing and absolutely huge event here in Michigan.. I don't do shows and am in no way interested in doing this large of a show for my first one, LOL I don't know how many people go through this show but it's two weeks long, first week is only for car manufactures, dealers, and news crews etc.. then the next week open to the public. If anyone is interested I'll see if I can pass the info onto you, LOL

That's what I was missing, LOL.. I was tired last night, actually still am as I've been really busy.. I must have missed that part or didn't comprehend it when I read that.. LOL.. Thanks for pointing that out..

Paul, I have mine hooked up to the foot switch and has been that way for a few years.. no issues so far.. Before I got the small vacuum set-up from Seyco I had my shop vac hooked up like that for about a year, just couldn't deal with the noise.. but the shop vac did way better dust collection through the EX-21's saw vac port than the Seyco vac system does..

I'm sure glad you're feeling better and having fun with making sawdust again.. Great work as always!

Wish I could help with the coloring, I'm not much of one to color wood either.. natural wood is my go too, If I were making it I'd probably seek out some bloodwood, LOL.. closest you get to red color you'd get with me. LOL Good luck, at least Poplar usually takes stain well,

Yeah no way am I brave enough to run a board on it's face on a jointer.. I have no problem running the edges on it so long as the board is at least 2-3 inch tall and use the push pad handle things.. Most boards I run though the jointer are 4 - 8 inch tall and I use it to smooth the edges for glue-ups.. Now that I have a decent table saw I probably could do without the jointer.. LOL

I have the basic same thing as Ray but I went the pricey route and bought a kit from Seyco.. https://www.seyco.com/dv-10a-cyclonic-action-scroll-saw-dust-collector/ That said, maybe I just scroll too much for this little rig but I'm not at all satisfied with this set-up. It does catch a lot of sawdust.. I have to either change or blow out the filter in the vac. about once a week.. and every couple weeks have to empty the gallon canister.. I can live with that part, however the sawdust on the top side of the table seems to get pushed around by my turning the work piece and within a hour or two I have a lap full of sawdust.. very little makes its way to the floor now that the dust is collected at the bottom of the table.. This system I have needs a suction hose at the top of the table as well.. I'm doubtful the vac is powerful enough to hook it up to a T for a second hose. I had much better results from a shop vac connected to the dust port on the Excalibur.. I bought a vac and a dust separator like Ray has to put on my Hawk a couple years ago.. I haven't hooked it up since I'm doubtful this is power enough to collect from both top and bottom.. @Rolfhas a nice set-up on his Hawk using some PVC pipe and a Festool MIDI vac... I plan to do something similar to what he has done for my Hawks, The older Hawks like my 226VS Ultra has the lower arm behind the angle mechanism and there is a hole in the stand with a plastic plug in it, I've seen people put a threaded fitting in there to hook up a vac. The new Hawk BM-226 I bought a couple years ago the lower arm extends out through the angle mechanism.. and if you set close to the saw the dust lands in your lap, LOL

Seems like you could just put a 90 pointed up to the ceiling to connect your hose to it? What am I missing here, LOL.. I know I've been out in the shop since 5am and now it's 11pm so it's been a long day but I feel like the 90 could just point upwards to your dust collector.. Guess I better get to bed but now I'm going to be trying to think of why you'd cut a hole in the top of the planer for a hose to go up to the ceiling when a 90 pointed up from the actual dust port would do the same thing.... I think? I've gotta be missing something here.. LOL

My old Ryobi planer I could run it down to 3/16 without issues.. however once I get to around 1/4" I start taking very light passes... Not much that I do in solid wood that is much thinner than that.. if I need it thinner then I just buy it that way, LOL. I much rather be sawing on the scroll saw than resawing and all the other fuss.. I get quite a lot of free lumber from my brothers lumber mill which is usually 4/4 or 5/4 thickness.. in that case since I mostly cut 5/8 - 3/4 I will resaw those.. From a business standpoint, for me to calculate the labor rate to make a board and the wear of bandsaw blades, planer knives etc. It's way cheaper for me to just buy the lumber in the thickness I need.. That might be a different story if I didn't have Johnson's Workbench within a 30 minute drive.. where they have about anything I want/ need in in the thickness I want / need.. if they don't have the thickness they'll make it for me while I shop.. LOL.. Re-sawing the free lumber from my brothers mill or the neighbors mill is worth while because I can get 2 5/8" - 3/4 boards to use.. You'd have to make a lot of thin boards to re-coop the cost of the drum sander when considering all factors of time and maintenance etc.. if you was buying it to simply make thin stock.

I guess I'd have to ask exactly what are you trying to achieve? Smoother surface? Thinner boards? I was all for getting a drum sander until I researched and learned that you really can't go real thin with those either.. unless you tape or fasten it to another board.. at least that was my understanding.. Now days with the CNC and making other things besides scroll work.. Like, I wouldn't run a end grain cutting board through the planer.. but going through the drum sander would work well.. Or if I need to do a large glue up and the finished glue up wouldn't fit through the planer then a open end drum sander would be handy..

Might be more of a matter of them "saying" they can't get it rather than they can't actually get it.. The prices of the stuff has went way up due to the fact that most of it comes from Russia and they aren't really importing it.. plus before the war they had some wild fires that was preventing them from getting much logging done to source the raw materials.. so the stuff is kind of scarce.. and pricey.. I think if they "really" wanted it they could find it but they likely aren't interested in paying the high price of it.. probably not a huge seller for them so they're waiting it out a while.. I'm just guessing.. My local supplier is kind of doing this.. when they get enough people interested in it they will order a batch of it because they know they won't have to sit on it long.. Paying those high prices and then sitting on a few pallets of it for a year or so they could get burned once production picks up and prices come down.. they could get burned on profits..

Each saw has a different cutting style depending on saw type and brand and also how the saw is set-up.. For example the Excalibur type saws with the short arms at the front of the saw has a more "rocking" motion on the blade, where as a Hawk or Hegner type saw has a more straight up down motion.. I can move from my Hawk to my Excalibur cutting on the same piece using the same blade and the Excalibur is more aggressive and cuts through the wood faster.. even though I have the saw adjusted to get the least amount of blade movement at the table height.. So, that said.. I find that the FD-UR to be a less aggressive cutting blade and I don't care to use them at all on my Hawk.. Only use Pegas blades on the Hawk.. and use either one on the Excalibur depending on what I'm cutting.. Anyway, my point is.. this is another reason why it's important to try sample packs.. getting advice on what blade to use can vary widely just from saw set-up..

White oak is a bit tougher than red oak... most all the stuff I cut I use either a #3 or #5 Pegas MGT blade... That said, I don't do much real thin cutting unless I'm "stack cutting" 1/8" pieces that I tape 4-5 of them together so then it's actually cutting 1/2 - 5/8".. Not a big fan of cutting anything more than 3/4" myself.. the thicker wood you cut the slower the cutting goes.. I like to cut fast, pretty much run my saw full speed.. I probably learned to like cutting fast from the beginning as I started out doing portrait cuts from 1/8" material ( hardwood until I learned about Baltic Birch ) and I also started out not knowing about stack cutting.. Cutting 1 piece of 1/8" hardwood goes pretty fast, and that is how I learned to scroll saw, so cutting 3/4" etc. seems like watching paint dry for me.. LOL Many folks took my liking of fast cutting was because I'm in a rush to "make money" and that's not it at all for me.. If I cut slow then the customer pays more, I'm still getting my money.. LOL.. I go fast because that's how I like to cut, not because I'm racing a clock.

Yeah, I don't know if the prices are comparable or not from the other places that had been mentioned.. I will say I was very impressed with the quality. All the ply was very smooth, pieces were very flat ( very important for using in the laser machine ). It was actually better quality than the stuff I get locally.. I think locally the storage is out in a out building where it's not climate controlled and if the stack has been there for some time it seems as though the grain gets grainier if that makes any sense, LOL I always have to sand my ply that I get locally but these pieces from Cherokee was really smooth already. Maybe the ply from other places is like Cherokee too I don't know.. I've only bought it from my local supplier other than the one time from Cherokee a couple years ago.

I think Cherokee is cheaper than Ocooch by the time you pay the shipping fee.. I buy mine locally but during the lockdowns 2 years ago I ordered from Cherokee and I got very good quality ply.. There prices include shipping so don't be sticker shocked with the prices.. They send me my wood and it was on my porch within 3-4 days.. I haven't price checked them since early spring this year but at that time they was cheaper than Ocooch once shipping was calculated. It's always tempting for me to just order online because by the time I take a few hours out of the day to run to my local source and then I still have to break the 5' x 5' sheet down to blanks.. It probably works out close to the same with the wear on the table saw and blades etc. So I always check prices before buying.. just have a hard time not buying local and supporting my local shop..

Seems like there was a discussion about him on one of the FB pages and something was mentioned about him being busy with something personal or? but I don't follow along too much with any of the FB pages so I could be wrong on that. He has some awesome patterns that I have saved to cut one day, LOL.. My issue is cutting portrait style patterns.. love cutting them, just they don't sell all that well for me..

The rare breeds are the ones I sell most of.. I have some of the more popular breeds and rarely sell one, probably because hundreds of others selling the same ones much lower priced.. I think when people start making these they go after the patterns of what they think are the most popular breeds.. which is what everyone is making, LOL

I have blade storage tubes that I keep at the saw and only put a dozen or two in the tube at a time then keep the rest of them in the package they came in. Before putting them in the tube or unwrapping the wire from them I spray both ends with a quick shot of brake parts cleaner.. that removes to oil from the blades.. just be sure to use them in a timely manor or you may end up with them rusting, partly why I only keep a few in the storage tubes at a time and why i leave the others in the packages. I rarely "sand" the blades but have done it.. seems like the brake parts cleaner does the trick quite well for me so I don't have to take time to sand the ends.. I happen to work on cars enough that I have a case or two of brake parts cleaner spray cans around.. If you don't normally have it around the shop then rough up the ends as Ray mentioned..